The background of this statement is that in recent years, part of China's textile production capacity has been shifting to Southeast Asia. According to statistics, Vietnam's textile and garment exports increased by 7.5% in 20 19. Correspondingly, from 20 19 to 12, the cumulative export value of textiles and clothing in China was 27183.62 million US dollars, down 1.89% year-on-year.

Textile researcher of CITIC Jiantou Futures Agricultural Products Team told 2 1 Century Business Herald that there is indeed a transfer of textile and garment production capacity to Southeast Asia, mainly in spinning and garment production. Among them, the garment production technology is not high, the added value is low, and it relies more on the low labor cost advantage in Southeast Asia, while most of the spinning is domestic capacity transfer. In 20 19, the spinning capacity invested by China in Vietnam accounted for 32% of the total spinning capacity in Vietnam.

However, many China textile enterprises have invested and set up factories in Southeast Asia. While enjoying the cost dividend, they will also face the challenge of imperfect industrial chain.

"The wages of Myanmar workers are particularly low, only 400-500 yuan per month, but raw materials need to be imported from China, which increases the additional logistics costs." Lei Ming, general manager of Liancheng (Myanmar) Clothing Co., Ltd. told 2 1 Century Business Herald.

The Ministry of Industry and Information Technology has also proposed to support the transfer of textile and garment industry to the central and western regions, which has also become a new choice for some enterprises. The reporter of 265438+20th Century Business Herald noted that in recent years, a number of textile industrial parks have been built in the central and western regions, indicating that China's textile industry has accelerated its transfer to the central and western regions. Take Sichuan as an example. Since the beginning of this year, Luzhou, Zigong and other places have successively opened related industrial parks, and the local textile production capacity has been greatly improved.

In recent years, the export of textile and garment industry in many countries in Southeast Asia has maintained a rapid growth of more than 5%. Jiansheng Group, a large textile enterprise, pointed out in its 20 19 annual report that Southeast Asia has benefited from the transfer of textile and garment industry in recent years, and its exports have grown rapidly. For example, in Vietnam, the textile export in 20 19 was US$ 32.6 billion, which was 7.5% higher than that in 20 18 and 24.42% higher than that in 20 17.

Behind this, many domestic enterprises set up factories in Southeast Asia, such as Lei Ming's enterprises. Engaged in clothing industry 13 years, 20 13 years, and decided to transfer some production capacity to Myanmar.

"I moved the factory for two main reasons. First of all, the wages of Myanmar workers are very low. More importantly, at that time, the EU gave Myanmar the MFN policy and imposed zero tariffs on Myanmar's products exported to the EU. " Lei Ming said.

Like Lei Ming's company, the lure of low wages and zero tariffs in Southeast Asia prompted many textile enterprises in China to move.

Rollán, the owner of G&D Leather Products Co., Ltd., told the reporter of 20th Century Business Herald that he has been engaged in the textile and garment industry since 1993, mainly producing handbags, bags and belts, and the United States is its main overseas market. 20 18 started to set up factories in Cambodia, mainly to avoid tariffs.

Even many listed companies choose to set up factories in Southeast Asia. For example, Jiansheng Group, located in Zhejiang Province, pointed out in its 20 19 annual report released in March this year that the company began to lay out production bases overseas in 20 13, and now it has planned to build three production bases in Vietnam.

Textile researcher of CITIC Jiantou Futures Agricultural Products Team said that the low cost (labor, water and electricity) and policy support (low tax) in Southeast Asia, which is dominated by Vietnam, are indeed the advantages of developing the textile and garment industry. In addition, Vietnam has joined a number of free trade agreements, and the tariff threshold of textile and clothing products has been further reduced.

However, unlike enterprises and projects where large enterprises can set up some upstream industrial chains at the same time, small and medium-sized textile enterprises are trapped in an incomplete industrial chain after setting up factories in Southeast Asia.

Lei Ming said that the industrial chain in Southeast Asia is immature and can only be used as OEM products. Their company needs to purchase raw materials in China, transport them to Myanmar, and then process them into garments for export.

In addition, Rollán said that Cambodian workers are inefficient, with only 60% skilled workers in China, and even managers have to be imported from China. He also spent nearly a year training Cambodian workers.

"The cost of delivering products to customers is lower than that in China. For example, the production cost in China is US$ 10, which is US$ 14.3 because of customs duties, while the production cost in Cambodia is about US$ 1 1. However, from the production point of view, because raw materials need to be imported from China, logistics costs are incurred, and the comprehensive production cost in Cambodia is higher than that in China. " Roland said.

Due to the difficulty of industrial chain, not all China textile enterprises are suitable for transferring to Southeast Asia.

Xu Heng (pseudonym), an employee of the development department of a textile foreign trade company in Guangdong, has been engaged in the textile industry 12 years, mainly making knitted products. Two years ago, in order to expand production and reduce labor costs, he went to Vietnam for an inspection, but finally decided to leave the production capacity at home.

Xu Heng believes that the supply chain of large enterprises is relatively complete, from manufacturing, printing and dyeing to clothing, but it is difficult for small enterprises like them to move there, and they still lack funds.

Language barrier is also a problem that enterprises in China must face. Rollán admits that when he first set up a factory in Cambodia, he didn't know the language and had to ask for an interpreter for everything, which caused a lot of manpower and time costs. Secondly, it takes at least 4-6 months to register a company in Cambodia, while it only takes 10 days in China.

At present, the flow of orders to Southeast Asian countries is also an important reason for China textile enterprises to transfer to Southeast Asia.

However, more orders do not mean more profits. With more and more China textile enterprises gathering in Southeast Asia, the competition among enterprises is gradually escalating.

Lei Ming said that since he opened a factory in Myanmar on October 20 13, China's garment factory has moved to Myanmar. As far as he knows, most of China's factories in Myanmar do not make money, and only a few well-managed factories may make a little money. From the point of view of the processing plant, it is not bad to invest tens of millions a year and earn millions. "Even if some factories take orders at a loss, they will choose to take them in order to feed the workers here."

In this case, how should China textile enterprises choose a reasonable layout at home and abroad?

17 In September, the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology said that the textile industry should be coordinated at home and abroad in response to the recommendation No.8321of the Third Session of the 13th National People's Congress. Support textile and garment enterprises to speed up technological transformation, improve the level of automation and intelligence, support the transfer of textile and garment industry to the central and western regions, guide and standardize enterprises to carry out international capacity cooperation in an orderly manner, promote the benign interaction between international cooperation and domestic industrial upgrading, and stabilize and optimize the textile industry chain and supply chain.

Lei Ming is considering setting up a factory in mainland China, because there are both good and bad factories in Southeast Asian countries such as Myanmar and Viet Nam, and in Chinese mainland. "Domestic places like Guangxi, Xinjiang and Shandong also have wages below 3,000 yuan."

Textile researcher of CITIC Jiantou Futures Agricultural Products Team said that the competitive advantage of China's textile and garment industry is mainly reflected in a more perfect overall industrial chain and domestic high-quality textile skilled workers. Especially with the policy regulation of China's reserve cotton this year, the price difference between domestic cotton and foreign cotton has remained low, and the cost performance of domestic cotton has improved, and the cost advantage of China cotton yarn has once again been reflected. But for the whole global textile raw materials, cotton fiber only accounts for about 25%, and most of them are contributed by chemical fibers such as polyester staple fiber and viscose fiber. At this point, China has an absolute advantage in chemical fiber production capacity, and the textile industry chain is more complete.

"One difficulty at present is that the cost of production factors is gradually increasing, and another difficulty is that the impact of trade barriers on the foreign trade market is gradually increasing." The above-mentioned researchers pointed out that the textile and garment industry has indeed moved to the central and western regions of China, but the problem of trade barriers is still difficult to solve, and the advantages of Southeast Asia do exist.

Due to the huge advantages of textile and garment quantity and industrial chain, the position of China's textile and garment industry in global trade is still hard to shake. Although the spinning capacity has gradually shifted to Vietnam, the main export destination of Vietnamese cotton yarn is still in China market, while the imported synthetic yarn mainly comes from China. From this perspective, Vietnamese textile industry is more like a supplement to China's industry.

Rollán Ballast believes that there is still room for breakthrough in the domestic clothing industry chain. At present, the clothing industry is polarized, one is like H &；; M, clothing enterprises such as Uniqlo are inexpensive and large in quantity, so they can take advantage of the cost. The other is small quantity, fashion and strong seasonality. Only when the domestic supply chain is quite mature can it be produced.

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