Different from the north, the farmland in the southern mountainous area is endless, and the fields are always divided by mountains and rivers. When we look, we can see far away, and our eyes will not be blocked by mountains immediately. When our eyes extend as far as possible along the white road in the field, they will reach a pass, and half of the peaks outside the pass are still faintly visible along the corner of the pavilion, that is, the Cloud jiusan.
Walking along the mountain for a while on the road, I only saw one or two graves. The canyon is getting narrower and narrower, and there is no sign of people living. At this time, a stone temple appeared in front of us, with several tigers painted on the wall and an old man herding cattle next to it. Only then did we believe that there were villages on the mountain. Turning a corner, there are one or two farmhouses scattered on the mountain, and the mountain road has become a neat stone step with guardrails on both sides.
The Internationale is floating in the mountain village.
This is a wooden building dominated by stones in Tuen Mun, and the winding stone walls on both sides just seal the canyon. I thought it must have been "a closed door that ten thousand people can't force", but now the door is wide open. I saw a group of people carrying the burden and leading the children leisurely into the door. In the strong afternoon sunshine, we also leisurely walked into Yunshan Village.
A narrow stone road, with stone walls and tiles on both sides, with windows as small as gun holes and dazzling gray light in the sun. This kind of building structure is easy to defend but difficult to attack in the war environment. Several men in blue khaki Chinese tunic suit gathered around a ditch that pried open the slate, discussing the dredging scheme of the drainage pipeline in the chariot and the way for each household to pay for it. It seems that drainage facilities have long been hidden under this stone road that existed in the Ming Dynasty.
Walking through the short stone road, there was a loud but vague broadcast sound in my ear, as if singing "Dongfanghong". Our expressions are also very happy. There is a basketball court with a woman drying rapeseed on it, and there is a magnificent wooden house next to it, but the door of the wooden house is locked. I looked through the door under the instigation of curiosity, and there was a mighty and tall god of wealth. It turned out to be the God of Wealth Temple. When I retreated to the porch, I saw the gate of the temple. At this time, the songs on the radio have been replaced by announcements. The village cadres are informing all households to take part in the cleaning, and they also say that everyone knows who will come and who will not come in the village. The announcement was broadcast several times, and songs could be heard on the radio, including "Sailing on the Helmsman", "Internationale" and "National Anthem" ... These songs resounded through the whole canyon and accompanied us through this quiet village.
After the basketball court, I walked on the stone road and went downhill all the way. The houses on both sides are not all stone structures, but a combination of stone and wood. Houses with stone walls, tiles and wooden doors are next to each other. There are old people sitting by the door chatting, women washing clothes in front of the door, little girls with red faces carrying sacks, and quiet primary schools. The further you go, the more sparse the house becomes. The stone road turned into steps. On the steps sat an old man in blue khaki and liberation shoes. There is a glass at his feet, which contains half a glass of transparent liquid. Judging from the red color on the old man's face, it is wine. He talked to the old man. The old man said that his surname was Zhang and Chen, and told us that his real surname was Chen. After he changed jobs as a soldier, he went to Yunshan Tun and became the son-in-law of the Zhang family, so he was also surnamed Zhang and received a pension. No wonder he can sit on the stone steps and drink so leisurely. Different from his leisure, many people on both sides of the stone steps are busy cutting nettles by the roadside with sickles. When I asked about cleaning, I suddenly realized that the cleaning called for in the radio was cutting nettles. At the end of the stone steps, I saw two tuen walls not far apart. Like the chariot wall in front of the chariot, vines with a sense of history climbed and blocked the canyon. Outside xiaotuen mun, there is a winding mountain road, which leads to nowhere.
In this way, we wandered around Yunshan Tun. It is busy and quiet, and its present appearance has been printed on the film. But what permeates behind this quiet country photo makes us stroll from the front of the village to the end of the village again and again, from the sunny afternoon to the sunset. A native old man moved out a few small chairs, drank tea and smoked cigarettes, and slowly set up a dragon gate array with us: Yunshan Tun has been around for more than a thousand years, and the old houses we saw next to it were from the Ming Dynasty, some of which were pharmacies and some were theaters. It turned out that there was only one wall behind the chariot, but later people couldn't stay, so they expanded backwards and built another wall. At the peak of the chariot, there were more than 1000 families. Later, many families went out to do business and moved out after making money. Some children take the school to work outside, and the old people follow. There are still 80 families in the chariot. Few people wear long clothes in Yunshan Village. Because he is a Hakka, he does not dance in local operas, but dances with lanterns. During the land reform, people in Yunshan Village took an active part in it, dancing lights everywhere to publicize it. He plays the old lady himself, so he is nicknamed "the old lady". Nowadays, more and more people have televisions. People watch TV on weekdays and dance lanterns only during the Spring Festival. There was a temple on the nearby Yunjiu Mountain, which was smashed during the Cultural Revolution. After 1978, everyone pooled their money to rebuild the temple. Now that the temple is repaired, there is a master. Many people burn incense on Guanyin's birthday and Chinese New Year holidays, and they can still live in the temple.
"Ancient Temple" Family
Stepping on the sunset, we went to Yun jiusan to stay, where there were stone classes and dense ancient trees. We forget the world below every step. Although we know that the temple on the mountain has just been built, we can't help but think that we are about to enter the ancient temple in the mountain. Only half of the old walls of this temple can be seen as the original remains, and the rest of the pavilions and temples are new. These new buildings are new in materials, shapes and technologies. Coupled with the chaotic content, the endless broadcast gave me every reason to think that this is a kitsch place, not a real Buddhist temple, until I got to know all the members of the temple.
6 people, 3 girls, 1 mute, a young man with a haircut, and a little girl with a boy's head cut at the age of 10. The mute is responsible for guarding the door and cleaning, and everyone calls him the old mute. He lives on the upper floor. The young man with a haircut is Luo Laosan, a simple man. He is from Yunshan Tun. He does some manual work in the temple during the day, eats in the temple and goes home to sleep at night. 10-year-old girl was sent to the temple by her mother and raised by the masters. She goes to school at the foot of the mountain with her schoolbag on her back every day, and returns to her home at the foot of the mountain after school. The three nuns are Master, Second Master and Master's disciples. They chant Buddhist scripture, cook and sew every day ... We stay in the temple and sit around with our host to eat vegetarian food. There is no difference because there are guests. The host watched TV and answered our curious questions with a smile. The masters talked about who cooked delicious food because they couldn't get up in the morning because they were unwell. The master first sent the best dish-fried tofu-to the little girl's bowl, and the second master gave the rest of the dishes to the young Luo Laosan, who foolishly advised us to eat. If the clothes on the girl didn't remind us that this is a temple, I would think I was a guest in an ordinary family who loved each other. If a mosquito hadn't stopped on the master's face, she wouldn't hit it even if it itched unbearable, and she wouldn't even allow others to drive the mosquito away. She even said, "It's rare to eat once." It's hard for me to associate them with those serious and unsmiling girls in my memory. All this reminds me of a painting, Rembrandt's Sancta familia. The Buddha is in my heart.
After dinner, Uncle Dumb pointed to the stairs and pointed at us. The little girl snuggled up in Mr. Zhong's arms and explained to us, "Uncle Dumb asked you to go up and play." Down the stairs, we came to the main hall on the top floor. Looking at the sky in the west, and the afterglow of the sunset. The rolling hills I can see surround the horizon, and the color has changed from crimson to light yellow, gray, blue and dark blue. At the zenith, a star lit up. The lights of the city turned on again and again and disappeared into the stars in the sky, revealing the Big Dipper and the Cowherd and the Weaver Girl ... At this time, bells rang in my ears, the sound of wooden fish, the pious chanting of nuns, and the barking of dogs at the foot of the mountain in the distance. In recent years, "Tunpu culture" has attracted more and more attention from the world. Tunpu culture originated more than 600 years ago when Zhu Yuanzhang led the army to the south, and then moved north to the south. After the Ming army conquered the south, in order to rule the south, it ordered the troops to station on the spot, which was somewhat similar to the modern "Xinjiang Construction Corps". With the changes of history, they thrived in the process of fighting for the people, more or less retained the cultural life customs of Jiangnan in the Ming Dynasty, and combined with local culture to form Tunpu culture. "
The most representative of "Tunpu Culture" is "Yunfeng Bazhai". Yunfeng Bazhai Scenic Area is located at18km south of Anshun City. Yunfeng is a place name. The so-called eight villages are composed of eight Tun Bu Village, including Yunshan Village, Leitun Village, Benzhai Village, Xiaoshanzhai Village and Wutun Village.
Yunshan Tun has completely preserved the typical Tunpu architecture and folk customs, and has been listed as a national key cultural relic protection unit, or a "Chinese historical and cultural village" named by the Ministry of Construction and National Cultural Heritage Administration. It is also the only "Chinese historical and cultural village" in Guizhou Province.
Yunshantun is deeply hidden in the Yunjiusan Canyon in Qiyanqiao Town, Pingba County, Anshun City, Guizhou Province. There are dense trees in front of the village, and there are two mountains, which are steep. Only one winding stone step can enter Tuen Mun. On both sides of Tuen Mun, stone walls with a height of six meters and a length of more than ten miles are built according to the rocky terrain to connect the cliffs, winding on the steep mountain walls on both sides like the Great Wall. Fourteen outposts (bunkers) are distributed in various prominent positions. An east-west main street runs through the whole village. On both sides of the street, there are Gaotai Theatre, Temple of Wealth, Ancestral Temple and old-fashioned Deshengchang Chinese Medicine Shop. Several winding alleys skillfully connect each household in series, and most buildings, such as houses and watchtowers, are distributed in a ladder shape on both sides of the mountainside according to the ups and downs of the mountain. The layout, road facilities and courtyard structure of the whole village have wonderfully completed the triple closed defense system.
Yunshantun is located in Qiyanqiao Town, Xixiu District, Anshun City, about 30 kilometers away from the old 320 National Road 12 and Xixiu District, Anshun City. From Guiyang, take Huang Gui (Guiyang-Huangguoshu) Expressway, Tianlong Exit, continue westbound along National Highway 320, turn at Qiyanqiao Town and enter the rural highway of Yunshan Tun, or get off at Anshun East Exit of Huang Gui Expressway, return along National Highway 320, and turn at Qiyanqiao Town and enter the highway of Yunshan Tun. The road leading to Yunshan Tun has been rebuilt, and the road conditions are good now. The whole journey from Guiyang is about 80 kilometers.
Driving on the steep Panshan Highway, park your car in the parking lot under Zhaimen, buy a ticket, and then walk along the stone steps for dozens of meters to enter Qiantun. Developing Yunnan-Guizhou is an important move of Ming Dynasty. Under the policy of "immigration to the real border", a large number of Han immigrants entered Guizhou, bringing "Central Plains culture" and gradually connecting with "Zhongzhou". Since the opening of the Post Road in Yuan Dynasty, Guizhou's strategic position has been promoted and it has become the "Southwest Olympic Zone". In the early Ming Dynasty, in order to pacify Yunnan and connect Sichuan, Lake, Yunnan and Guangxi, 24 health stations were set up along the post road, and bunkers were set up on the spot to "plow", so there was an "army chariot", commonly known as "transferring crops from south to north". At the same time, farmers from other places were recruited to grow crops in Guizhou, and "civilian villages" and "commercial villages" were established, that is, "transferring crops from south to north". These people have settled down and their descendants have multiplied, which is called "Tunpu people". There are thousands of Qian Qian in Tunpu, Guizhou, and only Pingba, Anshun and Zhenning have preserved the "legacy of Daming" and "the aftertaste of Jianghuai", which is really a must in the world.
Anshun, a post road from Huguang to Yunnan, has an important strategic position and is known as "the throat of Yunnan and the belly of Guizhou". In the Ming Dynasty, Pudingwei was established here, with dense garrison and scattered bunkers. Yunshantun is a typical example. Yunshantun is located at the south 18km of Xixiu District, Anshun City, surrounded by villages such as Benzhai, Zhangzhuang, Wutun, Zhu Lin, Xiaoshan, Leitun and Jiuxi, which are collectively called "Yunfeng Eight Villages". In the area of Fiona Fang 1 1 square kilometer, there are beautiful mountains and rivers, and eight villages are distributed in an orderly way, scattered among the mountains and dams. We can cultivate, defend, strive for and support each other. It is a masterpiece of the military defense system and a historical witness to the development of Guizhou in the Ming Dynasty. These bunkers have been unknown for 600 years, but today, with the rapid advancement of modernization, the Ming city has disappeared, most of the villages and bunkers in the Ming Dynasty have disappeared, and Yunshan Tun still remains, which is very surprising. In 200 1 year, it was listed as a national key cultural relics protection unit.
Yunshantun is located in Yunjiusan Canyon. The mountains are high and steep, and the old trees are shaded. Only one ancient winding mountain road can be entered. It is a closed tunpu, with a few kilometers of stone walls winding and undulating, an arched tower at the top of the inclined mountain towering at the entrance, and a 14 watchtower in dangerous places. An east-west main street runs through the village, and several winding alleys connect several courtyards in series, including houses, shops, temples, theaters and watchtowers. The earliest folk houses are simple buildings with a "fence" style, followed by a courtyard with a "front, two compartments and one wall", which is called a "bird's nest" house. Over time, quadrangles with "one front three compartments" or "two front two compartments" have been built, and there are also "Yin Ovary" with two floors and one bottom. Many houses form a dead alley, and there is a watchtower at the corner, which looks like a small castle in the castle, forming a second line of defense. The compound is also a "self-defense fort", with high walls, thick doors and gun and arrow shooting holes, which has become the last line of defense. In the heyday of Yunshan Tun, there were nearly a thousand families, and there was a theater in the center, carved with beams and painted with buildings, which was full of glory. There is a temple on Yunjiu Mountain, and philosophers bring bowls. Taoism also built the Jade Emperor Pavilion on the cliff at the top of the mountain. The three-story double-eaved pavilion stands on the arch bridge between the cliffs, which can climb high and overlook. A clear spring overflowed from a crack in the rock, and the water gurgled. Yunshantun is a rare relic of Ming Dynasty in China. In 2005, it was awarded the title of "Famous Chinese Historical and Cultural Village" by the Ministry of Culture and the Ministry of Construction.
The village is surrounded by mountains and waters, with lush green hills behind it, green water in front and a piece of farmland. This village is probably the base camp of the chariot army in those days, and its site selection and architecture all show the characteristics of a military fortress. There are many towers in the village, connected by streets and lanes, and connected by households. Eight towers form an angle to control the commanding heights of the bunker from different angles. The intersection of each roadway is in a "D" shape with controllable three sides. The roadway is narrow, the courtyard wall is towering, and shooting holes and observation holes can be seen everywhere. There are more than 500 families living here. Yang's old house, Yang's courtyard, Jin's courtyard, Wang's courtyard and Xiang's courtyard are all typical tunpu-style buildings. Some houses are hung with flower doors, and the doors and windows are engraved with Chinese characters, ten thousand characters and longevity characters. There is a cobweb drainage system in the village, and the entrance to the sewer is covered with slabs in the shape of frogs, dragons and phoenixes and bats. A ditch is a sewer hidden underground.
The buildings in Yunshan Tun, Benzhai and surrounding Tunpu combine Jiangnan style with local stone buildings perfectly, forming a unique "Tunpu Architecture". Coming to Tunpu is like walking into the "stone world", "stone roads, stone walls, stone houses, stone mills, stone pits and stone jars", which are integrated with the surrounding karst landforms. It not only preserves the ancient buildings, but also protects the beautiful natural environment, with green mountains and green waters, pink willows and beautiful frogs in the fields, just like a "paradise" that lasted for 2 1 century. Perhaps because of "group migration", the ancient customs of the Ming Dynasty have been passed down from generation to generation. People wear ancient costumes, perform quaint local operas, sing Buddhist songs, put out ancient sayings, and even speak in ancient sounds, thus retaining the customs of many old people. When they came here, time seemed to go back to 600 years ago, back to the dead Ming Dynasty. Yunshantun is an ancient place with a history of more than 600 years. It has always been known as "the throat of Yunnan and the belly of Guizhou". At the same time, it has become a battleground for military strategists. More than 600 years ago, Zhu Yuanzhang, Emperor Taizu of Ming Dynasty, sent an expedition to Yunnan and Guizhou. In order to strengthen the rule of the southwest frontier, soldiers were recruited from Jiangsu and Zhejiang and settled here. So far, it has thrived here and become a beautiful local flower.
Today, Yunshan Village is still surrounded by mountains, and various cultures are quietly preserved here. You may not have expected that there is also a unique Han group-Tunpu people. People here live in isolation. To this day, they still adhere to the culture and customs of the Ming Dynasty handed down from generation to generation. After 600 years of vicissitudes, they formed today's unique "Tunpu culture". This is the historical memory of immigrants in the Ming Dynasty and a unique cultural phenomenon of the Han nationality. It not only retains the cultural traditions of our ancestors, but also creates a unique regional civilization in the long-term productive labor. Speaking of which, do you really want to experience the ancient Ming Dynasty tunpu? Please see below:
The garrison in Ming Dynasty formed an ancient village fortress.
The Ming Dynasty was the biggest migration era in Yunnan-Guizhou history. In the fourteenth year of Hongwu (138 1), Zhu Yuanzhang sent 300,000 troops to attack the southwest, wiped out the remnants of the Yuan Dynasty, left the troops in Yunnan-Guizhou area, and ordered all the parents, wives and children of the garrison to be sent to the garrison. In the local area, the residence of the army is called "Tun", the residence of immigrants is called "Fort", and their descendants are called "Tunpu people".
The local people still wear Ming Dynasty costumes.
Women's clothing in Tunpu area is very special, mostly blue-green, with wide robes and narrow sleeves and no lace. Their clothes are inherited from Mrs. Zhu Yuanzhang's "Ma Dajiao", commonly known as "Fengyang Hanzhuang", and sewn by themselves. This kind of clothes has now become a symbol of tunpu. Tunpu women don't bind their feet. It is said that Ma Xiuying, Zhu Yuanzhang's wife, practiced martial arts since childhood and did not bind her feet. After she married Zhu Yuanzhang, she fought in the south and led her family to sew clothes and make shoes. Tunpu women often say that "our emperor doesn't bind feet, and we don't bind feet". Therefore, after hundreds of years of wind and rain, it is not easy to preserve these cultures in Tunpu area, which may be the last place in the world to completely preserve the clothing culture of the Han nationality.
The oldest local opera may be the root of Beijing opera.
From Huiban's arrival in Beijing to the quintessence of Beijing Opera, it seems difficult for people to know exactly where the roots of Beijing Opera are. However, in Tunpu, there is a unique traditional local opera-mask opera. Most of the local operas here are martial arts dramas with military themes, which may also be the oldest source of Peking Opera.