Hello, I'm Lao K, a media person who talks about watches, focuses on watch information and shares watch knowledge. Recently, many people have asked Lao K, Omega or Rolex. Both watch brands are very hot in the world at present. Today, through a simple analysis of five points, how to choose the money?
1. Accuracy of time: Undoubtedly, this must be a Rolex. Of course, I can also say ironically … but Omega has a more accurate quartz watch! Even the "electronic watch" (X33), of course, I think people who will ask this question should not be stupid enough to demonstrate this level ... Basically, Omega's commitment to mechanical watches is the Chronometer certified by the Swiss Observatory (COSC), that is, the daily error level of the "movement" of mechanical watches (which has to be sent to COSC for testing); But Rolex promises its own Superlative Chronometer, which is the daily error level of +2/-2 after sealing (although it has used its own verification in recent years, Rolex continues to send the movement to COSC for testing).
These two realms don't stop at the second difference. Rolex dares to declare that it is "sealed", which is simply the death of a mechanical watch that is more "fragile" than electronic components. But relying on deep foundation and improved design philosophy (which will be mentioned later), basically, if Rolex says it is the second accurate mechanical watch, no one dares to compete for the first place. Omega studied hard on the Co-Axial Escapement, and at the same time, after improving the problem of stopping the 25 series in the early years, it finally made a big move in 27 to launch the "Manufacture Caliber" coaxial escapement movement 85. This is Omega's trick to regain its glory and challenge the Rolex 3135 "core" (even some convenient and maintainable designs refer to 3135). Forums at home and abroad pointed out that the O-8 series and the extended chronograph 9 series are not less accurate than Rolex 3135 under normal use; Many teachers and fathers also praised some design philosophies of this movement; However, Omega's product line is too complicated. If we put aside electronic or quartz watches (because Rolex doesn't make Oysterquartz now), the overall accuracy level of O-Note is still not as good as Lao's (but the fist products are really confident and just positive) ... After all, people are there as benchmarks, which even Lao Hei has to admit. * * However, Omega is unwilling to lag behind. In 215, with the launch of the Globe Master Chronometer, a replica modeling "Constellation Global Master Series", a master chronometer certified by Rolex Superlative Chronometer was also established; Omega emphasizes that this certification is a series of "after-sealing" accuracy certification (including different wearing angles, winding conditions and harsh use environment) after the movement has passed the certification of the Observatory, and then the Swiss Federal Institute of Weights and Measures (METAS). However, Omega particularly emphasizes that a "harsh environment test" is the diamagnetic performance test they have added to the mainstream watches in recent years. Interested parties can go to Omega official website for details; However, the basic accuracy is still based on the daily -4/+6 of the Observatory. At present, the users mainly use several large three-pin models without complicated functions, and the mainstream 85 and 89 coaxial escapement series self-made movement models, but the whole series has not been realized
2. Why should the reliability continue to be accurate … Because reliability and accuracy are two sides of an organic whole, under normal use, the inaccuracy of mechanical watches actually means unreliability; In addition, reliability is also related to mechanism design and product philosophy. OMEGA, which was saved by SWATCH Group with marketing tactics, is naturally inferior to Rolex, because the product development philosophy of Rolex is all around "accuracy and reliability"; That's why many people will say that Rolex is a conformist, an old man looks like an old man, and cheats money … Only Lao knows best how to establish the most perfect product life cycle. However, I'm not here to hack Omega. Many workers in Taiwan Province use it to hack O notes, saying that it's so expensive and so bad ... Frankly speaking, all the reliable information we can get before there is a clear report on consumer usage comes from the issues of accuracy and maintainability of watchmakers (so we won't discuss the excessive shock or magnetism caused by Xiaobai users). I have reiterated the word maintainability many times. In fact, whether a mechanical watch is accurate depends not on the product design and assembly itself, but also on the inconvenience for people to adjust it (because the movement is not fine as soon as it is installed, and the balance spring needs to be adjusted by manpower with electronic instruments); This is also why the Rolex brand keeps its value, because Rolex has a strong logistics system of its own RSC (Rolex Service Center), and its requirements for watchmakers are also the friendliest (even the chronograph movement 413 used by Daytona can complete the mainspring replacement without disassembling the whole core), because it was designed from the perspective of easy maintenance. However, the coaxial escapement shaft chosen by O Ji may be a nightmare for many novice watchmakers. In addition, SWATCH's multi-brand strategy has also led to uneven service levels, and the manpower is insufficient, and it is necessary to deal with the movement design with a big gap.
In fact, the variety and vitality of Omega should also be encouraged, otherwise, there is only one word left in the market, which is so boring; However, SWATCH group seems to lack an important element in the road of Omega brand revival … a satisfactory logistics system; Sadly, if this is not done well, it will greatly affect the value preservation of watches!
TOURBILLON; This force is really high … However, this watch belongs to the limited production in the limited edition, and anyone who knows the structure of mechanical watches should know that tourbillon's help to the substantive accuracy is only an egg …); The limit of the complex functions of the two companies is to reach the calendar (just adjust the date of February every year) (save the three questions, needle chasing, perpetual calendar and so on), because the two companies mainly rely on tool watch (that is, they have to take them with them to seriously look at the time), so they have no interest in managing that kind of high-order ultra-complex money. Rolex considers that the more complex the function, the greater the damage to reliability, which deviates from the enterprise purpose; O Ji is mainly controlled by a bunch of super-top brands on SWATCH Group, so I just have to deal with Rolex myself. There is no need to lie in that muddy water ... Omega relies on SWATCH Group's resources to make its own coaxial escapement shaft first. Of course, many O Hei are saying that the plates designed by ETA are not self-made movements. I am also drunk when I hear this ... Do you care whether the watches are good or who designed them? In recent years, the biggest breakthrough of O 'Kee is to realize the anti-magnetic technology of the whole watch, which abruptly dwarfs Lowe's MILGAUSS ('literally' is about 15 times of MILGAUSS's anti-magnetic ability), which is really commendable, because the most feared thing of mechanical watches is to be magnetized, although it can be solved by removing the magnetism after being magnetized, but now the electronic products are flooding in our lives, and it is impossible for ordinary users to pay much attention to the use environment. The basic anti-magnetic technology is the more the better. However, Rolex's basic skills are shown in the declaration of +2/-2 behind the seal, and even the flagship Skywalker with complex functions is the same. This accumulation is not only the raw materials and design are firmly in hand; Rolex also has a huge laboratory, which is responsible for materials science and applied mechanics. Simply speaking, Rolex is a small scientific research unit, and its research object is its own mechanical watch. Moreover, many of Rolex's movement designs are fine-tuned based on institutions accumulated over the years; It can be said that each design has been tested by time and users. Many fans will spray other brands with this, but I don't think it's really necessary. After all, Rolex is a special existence in an industry. I think we should appreciate all kinds of beauty in the watch industry, instead of taking the rare cases that ordinary people can't reach as our sense of superiority. There is no doubt about the practical (accuracy-related) polishing and rhodium plating of Rolex and Omega homemade movements, which is also a compulsory course for all high-end watches, except that Rolex has no back penetration, so unlike Omega's 8-series and 9-series, the movement is polished with fish scales and radial lines outside. Because I think watches should be positive, I don't care much about decorative polishing; If people who care about it can really start with Omega's PO series, but some people will wonder … Is it reliable to dive 6 meters deep with a back …?
4. Appearance design is subjective, but the watches of these two companies can be said to be the backbone of the whole industry. How can I put it ... Before Panerai was sought after by various fancy styles, R and O were probably the most imitated products in the world, especially their diving watch series (Lao: Water Ghost Submariner;; Europe: 7 Seamaster, Planet Ocean seahorse, AquaTerra seahorse), and even some elements have been borrowed from famous brands; For example, Longines Hydroconquest has added the element Lao Submariner, and TAG Heuer Aquaracer has the outer circle model of 7 hippocampus. I can only say that the designs of these two companies are classic, especially the chronographs (Daytona and Speedmaster) and diving watches; Of course, Rolex's series of dress watches (Day-date, Datejust) has been imitated beyond words. Of course, based on SWATCH Group's attitude of attaching importance to USP (unique selling point), OMEGA's watches have changed more, while Rolex's changes have always been small. This is also a manifestation of brand characteristics, and I don't think it is necessary to comment on it; Especially for some friends who only strongly reject metal watch refining, OMEGA can be said to be a new way out of work. The only thing worthy of further study is that Omega's attempt to take an elegant route on Haima AT model is a good formal route out of the tool watch model ... After all, the flying saucer series is too old-fashioned ... The latest constellation series is too old (however, the old constellation series is a political figure of various countries, except for the love watch brought by President Rolex), and AT Haima has well grasped the formal route of Omega. Although there is still a big gap with the popularity of Rolex's "Oyster Style" formal clothes, don't forget that it is often Oyster Style itself that really defeats Oyster Style sales ... Consumers sentence it to death by saying "old-fashioned"!
5. Marketing Many people think that Rolex pursues mysticism. In fact, this statement is simply boring and nonsense. Rolex is mysterious because it is not a listed company, and its parent company is called Hans Wilsdorf Foundation (founded by Hans Wilsdorf Foundation? The foundation named after Welstoff ... Yes ... Foundation! It's charity! ); That is to say, he has no obligation or responsibility to announce any business conditions at all (according to the business route for many years, there is no will, and Rolex doesn't even have an official museum), so Rolex's sales figures will always be a mystery, or it can only be aggregated through second-hand or third-hand data (channels). As for revenue ... maybe it will not be available in the next life; SWATCH GROUP, the parent company of OMEGA, is a listed company of Zurich Stock Exchange (also its index component) ... Do you think it can not publish its financial report? Back to marketing, the two companies are purely in business, but each has its own strengths ... Let me talk about the similarities first. For certain ethnic groups with high standards, such as first-class athletes or performers, major sports events and scientific research; These two companies will not let go. In fact, these projects can be seen in places other than official website's watch selection and company history. I believe I don't need to say more. Now let's talk about the differences between the marketing strategies of the two companies. ROLEX pays more attention to offline channel operation, which is why the authorized dealers with high pressure (although they sell more than Rolex brands) are willing to stick the logo of Rolex and TUDOR (Tudor, Rolex Deputy Brand) ... because they have the money to get it ... big brother! In fact, in the early years, most Swiss watches were made in this way. Only after the diversification of marketing channels, everyone did not take this as the final destination. To some extent, it also reflected that other players' cash flow was really worse than Rolex's, and only he could continue to operate forever. However, any evaluation of Rolex's operation was purely speculation, which at least proved Rolex's determination to work online.
Omega will do something that Rolex doesn't like to do: Product Placement. One of the most adverse things is the soft and wide implantation of 7 movies. In fact, this point is really controversial. Apart from saying that Ian Fleming, the original author of James Bond, is a big fan, he even pointed out in the writing of Casino Royale: Pound can't wear watches casually, but he has to wear Rolex ... However, Pound has been wearing Omega watches since golden eye in 1995. Even Pierce Brosnan, who performed Pound at that time, became the spokesperson of Omega (Daniel Craig, the current Pound actor, wears Omega only when he appears as Pound, and he is photographed wearing Rolex many times when he is not bound by the image of Pound). According to Jake's Rolex World, a well-known American blog, Omega even "tampered" with NASA officials to make Ultraman Speedmaster the "first moon landing watch" (I personally think this news is not credible, because there is no evidence to point out similar behavior after searching all kinds of overseas information, but only three watch brands have survived the NASA sea election: Rolex, Longines and Omega). Although Rolex also invites spokespersons, sponsors great sports events and witnesses human pioneering work ... Rolex prefers to prove itself rather than others. I don't think that soft and wide implantation and business channels are a dispute of ideological lines, but simply a matter of choice. But before Pierce Brosnan, Pound wore other watches twice, and all the other series wore classic Rolex Blackwater Ghost ... and Rolex didn't pay a dime (of course, Ian Fleming was still alive when Pound's film was filmed in the early years, and I believe MGM didn't dare to expect it). At this time, no matter how neutral it is, it's hard not to show the competition between the two brands ... < P > Thank you for watching. I'm Lao K, focusing on the custom assembly and testing of watches, playing with the highest-end watches at the least cost, screening the perfect case work, and testing the most stable movement performance. The normal operation of watches is only because we are more professional. Be honest, tell the truth and listen to the truth. For more watch knowledge exchange, please pay attention to old K Baidu search: old K talks about watches.