foot length and last length

foot length is the basis for making shoe size and designing the bottom sample length of shoe last, but no matter what kind of structure or style of shoe last, its bottom length must be greater than the foot length. This is because:

① The length of the foot often varies with the climate and the intensity of labor. The change of foot length caused by climate change is generally 3-5mm, and it will also increase when people are engaged in heavy physical labor or walking for a long time.

② When people walk, their feet must have some room for movement in the shoes, which is called "allowance". Generally, the allowance for men's shoe last with plain head is 2mm and that for women's shoe last is 16.5m m.. At the same time, the change of the allowance varies with the change of the head shape of the last. Generally, the smaller the head shape (sharp and narrow), the greater the allowance; On the contrary, the bigger the head shape (thickness and width), the smaller the allowance.

③ The heel of the shoe last should have a proper convexity (rear tolerance) to adapt to the radian of the heel, so as to make the shoes fit better. Generally, the rear tolerance of the shoe last is about 2% of the girth, that of the male last is 5mm, and that of the female last is 4.5 mm.. Therefore, the relationship between the sample length of the last and the foot length is

the sample length of the last = the foot length+the allowance-the back tolerance

For example, if you make a leather shoe last with 25mm feet, the sample length of the last is: 25+2-5 = 265 mm

the foot girth and girth of the last

The girth is fat and thin. Determining the fatness of the shoe last is mainly based on the metatarsal circumference and tarsal circumference of the foot.

(1) plantar circumference

The plantar circumference of the foot is the key part that bends when walking. If the last plantar circumference is not properly sized, it will not only be uncomfortable to wear, but also bring early damage to the plantar circumference of the shoe and affect human health. The determination of the plantar circumference of the last is not only based on the plantar circumference of the foot, but also related to the shoe sample. For example,

① The last plantar circumference of plain-toed and three-toed shoes should be 3.5mm smaller than the plantar circumference of the feet, so that the plantar circumference of the shoes will block the metatarsal joints and prevent the toes from hurting.

② For shoes with shallow mouth, tongue-shaped heel, etc., the last plantar circumference should be 7mm smaller than the plantar circumference of the foot, so that the shoes can be worn after walking.

③ Boots, high-waist, and shoes with controllable back straps, the last plantar circumference can be equal to or slightly larger than the plantar circumference, especially for high-waist cotton shoes, 3.5mm should be added.

④ Children are in the developmental stage. In order to make their feet grow normally, the plantar circumference of the last tree should be larger than the plantar circumference of the foot.

(2) Tarsal circumference

Tarsal circumference is generally 1mm larger than plantar circumference in the rule of foot shape. However, the last cannot be made according to this ratio. Generally, the circumference of the last can be 2-6mm larger than that of the foot. At the same time, pay attention to the pick-up of the waist nest. The same length of the tarsal circumference can make different degrees of the tarsal circumference, which directly affects the shape of the last. Therefore, besides mastering the size of the tarsal circumference, we must correctly conceive the pick-up of the tarsal circumference.

the width of the foot and the width of the last

the width refers to the width of each part on the bottom sample of the last. The width of the last pattern is based on the width of the foot. There are two widths of feet, the outline width and the footprint width. In fact, these two widths can't be the real width of the last. Generally, the width of the bottom sample of the last tree should be taken as the width of the bottom sample of the last tree, except where the front and rear ends (allowance and back tolerance) need to be scaled.

Tread of shoe last

Tread refers to the height of the front and back of the last. The front and back stilts of the last are in harmony. When the back stilt height of the last is fixed, the distance between the front point of the last and the horizontal plane is called the front stilt height of the last. When the back stilt of the last rises, the front stilt of the last will decrease, and when the back stilt of the last decreases, the front stilt will rise, but this is not a simple lever action. As a general rule, the back stilt of women's last is raised by 1mm, and the front stilt is lowered by about 1mm, while the back stilt of men's shoe last is raised by 5mm, and the front stilt is lowered by about 1 mm..

insole foundation line of last

The insole foundation line of last mainly includes: heel center point accounts for 18% of foot length, waist pit point accounts for 41% of foot length, fifth metatarsal toe point accounts for 63.5% of foot length, first metatarsal toe point accounts for 72.5% of foot length, little toe protrusion point accounts for 78% of foot length, and big toe protrusion point accounts for 9% of foot length.

determining the center line of the last surface and the back arc is called the center line

first, visually find the center point of the crown of the head and the center point of the mouth of the tube, and then find the center point in the most concave part of the back of the last. The center line of the last face is called the center line of the last face, when the center point of the crown of the head and the center point of the mouth of the tube are closely attached to the desktop, and the pencil lies horizontally on the desktop, and the nib is aligned with the center point of the crown of the head, the center point of the most concave part of the back of the last and the center point of the mouth of the tube.

find a middle point at the upper mouth of the back arc of the tube mouth, find the middle point at the junction of the back arc side mouth and the bottom side mouth, and then find the middle point at the position of the protruding point of the back arc, and connect the three points into a line as the center line of the back arc.

the determination of the center line of the last and the center line of the back arc is the key to the correctness of the shoe pattern, and it is also the basis for determining the components of the upper. Without these two center lines, there is no standard to measure whether the upper is right or not, and there is no way to locate the upper.

How to determine the height of the shoe upper

The height of the back seam of a full-upper shoe generally accounts for 1/4(25%) of the foot length, but it is enough to take 23% of the foot length on the shoe last when designing and positioning. Because the finished shoe already contains the thickness of insole, semi-insole, upper, main heel, upper and other materials, there should be this difference between the finished shoe and the positioning.

the heel height of tongue-shaped shoes is 25.5%-26% of the foot length, and the design orientation accounts for 23%-24% of the foot length. Because the tongue-shaped front upper is long and short, the back seam height should also be different, but the tongue-shaped shoes have no shoelaces to adjust and control, so the back seam height must be slightly higher than that of the full upper shoes.

The back seam height of shallow shoes accounts for 26% of the foot length, and the design orientation accounts for 24% of the foot length. Sponge is placed on the upper opening of the back upper, such as the back seam height of leisure shoes and travel shoes, which is not limited by the above ratio and can be appropriately increased.

from the above proportion data, the shorter the front side, the higher the height of the rear side, otherwise it will not follow the foot. It should be noted here that the height of the back seam cannot be taken according to the length of the last bottom sample. Because of the size of the allowance of the shoe last, if the value is taken according to the length of the bottom sample of the last, the back seam height of the 25th shoe worn by the same person will be different. This is obviously reasonable.

Determine the total length of the upper and the position of the front door

The length of the upper, such as the head of Baotou, the middle upper, the total length of the upper and the positioning of the front door point, must be taken as a percentage of the sample length of the last. Considering the moving parts of each joint of the foot shape, the total length of the front upper should not exceed 66% of the length of the last bottom. If it exceeds this value, the foot bend will be butted when walking.

The length of the mouth door generally refers to the position of the opening of the shoe, such as: the tongue-shaped mouth door is fixed under the horizontal bar, at the interface between the forefoot and the tongue of the shoe; The lace-up type is fixed at the position where the ear of the shoe meets the upper, and the positioning of the mouth door accounts for 38%-44% of the sample length of the last bottom (for example, it is appropriate to set the mouth door length of women's shallow shoes at 26%-3%).

the length of the door should consider the convenience of putting on and pulling out the last. If the door is too long, it will press the instep, and at the same time, the last pulling is too shallow and often does not follow the foot.

determine the position of the shoe's mouth width

the width of the shoe's mouth is taken as a percentage of the length of the last, which is the vertical line of the center line of the last surface at the mouth length position, and then the data on the vertical line is taken as the mouth width.

the width of the opening of the ear shoe accounts for 16%-18% of the length of the last, the inner ear shoe accounts for 16% of the length of the last, and the distance between the inner and outer sides of the outer ear shoe accounts for 32% of the length of the last.

The length of the tongue-shaped horizontal bar is generally 24.5% of the plantar circumference, and the width of the tongue is generally 19% of the plantar circumference.

Determine the height position of the rear upper (lateral ankle height)

The lateral ankle height is the lower edge point of the ankle bone, which is the main positioning data of a single shoe. Because the ankle height of the foot accounts for about 22% of the length of the foot, the height of the finished shoe cannot exceed 2% of the length of the foot. When designing and positioning, it generally accounts for 18% of the foot length, and at the same time, pay attention to the fact that the lateral ankle is lower than the medial ankle, which can be 2-3cm different on the template.

last sticking materials include adhesive tape, transparent paper and kraft paper. Weighing the pros and cons, kraft paper is more common, and the cut paper fiber is straight to the front and back of the shoe last, the length is slightly longer than the length of the shoe last, and the width is slightly longer than the width of the center line of the last surface. You can rub the paper, you don't need to rub it well, otherwise you can wear the last, but it is difficult to uncover and easy to distort. After rubbing, spread the paper flat, brush the paper and the last surface separately, and let it dry.

1. Sticker method of the whole last

When the upper surface is inlaid asymmetrically (the pattern inside and outside is asymmetrical), the whole last must be stuck. First cut 2/3 according to the center line of the sticker, then align the center line of the sticker with the center line at the front end of the shoe last and stick it flat on the last surface. Make two or three tiny cuts in the most concave part of the last tree so that the surface of the last tree is flat.

2. The half-last sticker method

is used for the styles with symmetrical inlays inside and outside the vamp. Its method: cut a piece of paper slightly longer than the last, align it with the outer side of the last, make three cuts in the most concave part of the last, and then take a small piece of sticker to fill these three gaps.

3. Sticker method with full head and empty waist

It is used to stick the last on the upper of sandals. Generally, two pieces of paper are cut according to the length of the front upper and the length of the rear wing, and pasted according to the size of the upper that is slightly beyond the demand. For example, if the upper is deep, it is cut in the most concave part. The method is the same as above, and if it is shallow, it is unnecessary to cut.

4. Sticker method with empty heels and full waist

is used to stick the last on the upper of women's sandals. Cut a piece of paper with a length slightly shorter than the length of the last by 1cm, align the center line of the paper with the center line of the last, and stick it on the inner and outer rings of the last. If the head is empty, 1cm can be left, and a part of the lower mouth can be cut off to make the last more comfortable.

the design of travel shoes

The design of travel shoes is somewhat different from that of leather shoes, and there are roughly the following points: ① Because travel shoes are basically flat-heeled and sole-integrated, but the last surface of the inside and outside is basically the same, so it can be regardless of the inside and outside. ② There are many parts of travel shoes, but the inside and outside are symmetrical, so as long as the last is the same, some styles can be modified on the template. (3) Due to the need of structure, travel shoes generally have a shallow mouth and a long tongue, so they can not be treated as exhibition stilts. Therefore, the design of travel shoes belongs to thick lines in terms of style, and they are all assembled with one knife and light parts in terms of structure. From the perspective of workmanship, the thread and needle distance of the sewing line are larger than those of leather shoes. The preparation of small parts of travel shoes is very decorative, such as eyelets, trademarks, embedded lines and inserts.

Design of children's shoes

The design of children's shoes should mainly pay attention to children's characteristics and habits, especially children are in the stage of growth and development, and the design of shoes should help children's growth, life, sports and so on. Therefore, the following aspects must be considered in the design: ① First, the shoe last should be selected correctly. Children's shoes have a large head shape and a wider circumference than adults, because children's feet cannot be squeezed, which has been taken into account when making the last, and children should not wear shoes with high heels. ② The selection of materials generally requires lightness, softness and certain fastness. Children are naughty and exercise a lot, so both fabrics and soles need to have anti-slip function on the outsole. (3) in terms of style and color, try to make it easy for children to put on and take off, and the style should reflect the characteristics of children's innocence and liveliness, such as cartoon patterns and patterns on the decoration, which can be brighter and brighter in color. (4) Craft manufacturing method, to be fine but not complicated, we can boldly adopt some mosaic techniques and thick thread stitching techniques to make children's shoes more distinctive.