knowledge of woolen fabrics

knowledge of woolen fabrics, there are many kinds of woolen fabrics, and wool fabrics are one of the series of woolen fabrics, which are generally divided into pure wool fabrics, wool blended fabrics and chemical fiber wool-like fabrics. Let's take a look at the wool fabric knowledge and related information. Knowledge of woolen fabrics 1

1. Mercerized wool: wool fiber is a natural short fiber with rough surface scales. Adding silk fiber to textile can increase the surface luster and fastness. But generally, the blended long fibers are not silk, but some chemical fibers, because silk is the representative of long fibers, so some long fibers with silk characteristics will be called silk (some are called chemical fiber, which is ok. Some people confuse chemical long fibers with silk in order to confuse their thinking in sales.

2. Cashmere: In winter, in order to resist the severe cold, animals will grow some fluff in the abdomen. The characteristics of cashmere are fine and soft, with loose molecular structure, easy to store a lot of gas, which can effectively block the air circulation and play a good role in keeping warm.

3. Wool: it is the representative of short fiber. The surface of the fiber is coarse, which is suitable for directors' suits or high-grade dresses, but it is easy to wear, and fastness is a disadvantage. Now it is difficult to see pure wool products in the market.

wool fabric is suitable for high-end dresses such as suits, chester coats, dresses or tuxedos. Cashmere is suitable for sweaters, blouses or fashions. Wool silk adds a certain amount of long fibers, which can spin the fabric as thin as possible, and the use of silk also makes the fabric breathable. The fabric blended with silk and wool also has the characteristics of woolen fabric, so it is suitable to replace pure spun wool fabric in summer, and its fastness is greatly improved due to the addition of some chemical fiber.

Cashmere wool or cashmere is the best product among wool and cashmere, which is mainly produced in Xinjiang and Britain, with the highest output in Xinjiang in the world. In Britain, a better cashmere wool fabric costs at least $3, per meter, so I say that the choice of fabric should be based on the season and clothing style and function. The three fabrics you talked about have their own characteristics, so we should only choose the good quality ones in this material. Knowledge of woolen fabrics 2

Types and characteristics of wool fabrics

Generally speaking, wool fabrics are generally divided into pure wool fabrics, wool blended fabrics and chemical fiber wool-like fabrics. The main features are as follows:

pure wool fabrics

(1) pure wool worsted fabrics

Most of them are thin, smooth and clear. The luster is natural and soft, and it is bleached. The body bone is crisp, soft and elastic. Loosen the woolen cloth after grasping it tightly, and there is basically no crease, even if there is a slight crease, it can disappear in a short time.

(2) Pure wool woolen fabrics

Most of them are thick in texture, full in surface, soft in color and shiny. Denim and suede do not show the bottom of the grain. The texture of grain surface class is clear and rich. Soft to the touch, crisp and elastic.

Wool blended fabric

(1) Wool and polyester blended fabric

There are bright spots on the surface in the sun, lacking the soft and moist feeling of pure wool fabric. Wool/polyester (polyester/wool) fabrics are stiff but stiff, and stand out with the increase of polyester content. The elasticity is better than pure wool fabric, but the hand feel is not as good as pure wool and wool blended fabric. Loosen the woolen cloth after grasping it tightly, with almost no crease.

(2) The blended fabric of wool and viscose

has a dull luster. Worsted fabrics feel weak, while rough fabrics feel loose. The elasticity and stiffness of this kind of fabric are not as good as pure wool and wool-polyester-wool blended fabric. If the viscose content is high, the fabric is easy to wrinkle.

pure chemical fiber wool-like fabric

wool-like fabric made of traditional viscose and artificial wool fiber has dull luster, weak hand feeling and lack of stiffness. Due to poor elasticity, wrinkles are easy to appear and are not easy to fade. The strength of the yarn drawn from the fabric after wet water is obviously lower than that when it is dry, which is an effective method to identify viscose fabrics. In addition, this kind of wool-like fabric becomes hard and thick after soaking. With the progress of science and technology, wool-like products have been improved in color, feel and durability.

on the basis of understanding the basic information, how should we identify the true and false wool fabrics?

1. See clearly that if the trademark is pure wool, there should be five contents of the pure wool logo. If it is a blended product, it should be marked with wool content; Otherwise, it can be considered as a fake.

2. Check that the real woolen sweater is soft, elastic, wrinkle-free, feels good and keeps warm; The texture, elasticity, feel and warmth retention of fake sweaters are poor.

3. Burning test shows that real wool contains a lot of protein. Take a few fibers from the clothes and light them, smell them and look at the ashes. If there is the smell of burnt feathers, the ashes will be crushed with your fingers, which is pure wool. If there is no smell of burnt feathers and the ashes are not crushed and caked, it is a chemical fiber fabric.

4. Friction electrostatic inspection. Rub the clothes to be inspected on the cotton shirt for about 5 minutes, and then quickly separate from each other. If there is no "snapping" sound, it is a real sweater; If there is a "snapping" sound, even with electrostatic sparks, it is a chemical fiber fabric, not a fake sweater. Knowledge of woolen fabrics 3

Types and characteristics of wool fabrics 1. Worsted woolen fabrics

Worsted woolen fabrics are made of combed wool yarns, also known as combed wool fabrics, and the wool used is of high quality. This kind of worsted fabric has smooth surface, clear weave, soft feel, elasticity, smoothness, firmness and durability. Generally, fabrics are light and thin, which is suitable for making spring and autumn and summer clothes.

1. gabardine gabardine, also known as gabardine or Xinhua, belongs to thick twill fabric. Often use 2/2 twill weave, light texture with 2/1 twill weave, heavy texture with satin back weave. Gabardine has smooth surface, thick and compact body, smooth feel, elasticity and good wear resistance.

2. serge serge adopts 2/2 twill weave. According to the different raw materials and product specifications, serge can be divided into medium-thick serge and thin serge, smooth serge and rough serge. Smooth serge is smooth and smooth with clear lines; The wool serge is slightly felted, and the wool covers the woolen surface, with soft luster and smooth and waxy feel.

3. Fanliding Fanliding, also known as tweed, is a lightweight plain wool fabric. It is characterized by fine yarn, large twist and low warp and weft density. Where Li Ding is smooth and smooth, the texture is clear, light and breathable, elastic and smooth.

4. Paris Paris is a lightweight plain wool fabric woven with mixed-color wool yarn, and the light-colored bottom of the woolen surface is scattered with criss-crossing faint dark fine line stripes. Paris has a smooth surface, light texture and smoothness.

5. What's the smell? What's the smell? Also known as worsted flannel and spring and autumn wool, it is made of fine wool with high quality. 2/2 twill weave is often used, and the fabric density is moderate. Generally, it is slightly felted, and the surface is covered with uniform and short fluff. What's the smell? The surface of the tweed is flat, the diagonal lines of the shading are faintly visible, and it feels full and elastic.

6. Women's clothing Women's clothing is a kind of woolen fabric with loose structure, which is mostly plain weave and twill weave, and also has jacquard weave. Women's clothes are fine, clean and soft, with clear weave and soft and elastic feel.

7. Tweed tweed is a general term for fancy wool fabrics, and it is the most varied and colorful variety in worsted fabrics. Tweed warp and weft often use different kinds of yarns, and weave rich and colorful colors with different weaves.

8. Gongni Gongni is a high-grade worsted fabric with medium-thick satin weave. Gongni is a kind of worsted fabric with high density, with smooth surface, clear weave, thick texture and good drape.

9, camel silk brocade camel silk brocade is made of fine yarn, with high warp and weft density, mostly satin weave, discontinuous stripe twill on the surface, narrow concave between diagonal lines, flat back, fine weave, smooth and tight feel, and full of elasticity.

1. breeches and breeches are a heavy variety of worsted wool, which was originally named after it was mainly used to make breeches for knights. The warp density is nearly twice as large as the weft density, so the texture is thick, elastic, rough twill, good warmth retention, strong and durable.

11. Qiao Keding Qiao Keding, also known as Roosevelt, is a worsted fabric variety between gabardine and breeches. Choke Ding uses fine wool with good quality as raw material, which has a compact and smooth texture, a smooth and crisp surface and clear and protruding stripes.

12. Flag yarn has a thin density, a flat weave and loose bones.

second, woolen cloth

woolen cloth is mostly woven with wool yarn, and the yarn used is thick and the evenness is poor. Generally, fabrics are felted and napped, so that the surface of the fabric forms a dense and plump nap, so the fabric is soft and thick, with good warmth retention, and is mostly used for clothing fabrics in autumn and winter. There are many kinds of woolen fabrics, which can be divided into tweed, suede and textured according to the different styles and characteristics of fabrics. The tweed product feels full and the texture is tight and thick; Suede products are covered with plush, the texture is not exposed, and the warmth is strong; Yarn-dyed products are mostly used, with rough style and rich colors. The main varieties of woolen cloth are as follows.

1. Melton Melton is a kind of woolen fabric with good quality, which mostly adopts 2/2 twill weave and also uses plain weave. After heavy felting treatment, fine and flat fuzz appears on the front and back, with no undercoat, plump tweed, compact texture, solid bones, elasticity, wear resistance and good wrinkle resistance of lint-free balls.

2. Navy Denim is named after it is mostly used as a navy uniform. Generally, it is made of better raw materials mixed with a small amount of short hair and woven with 2/2 reinforced twill weave. Its appearance is similar to that of Melden, but its hand feel and body bone are slightly worse than that of Melden. Navy tweed is compact in texture, plump and flat in surface, stiff and elastic to the touch.

3. Uniform woolen cloth is a popular variety in woolen cloth, and the wool used is of low quality, generally woven with 2/2 twill or broken twill weave. Uniform woolen cloth is thick in texture and good in warmth retention. After felting and raising, the woolen cloth has uniform plush, but it is rough, and its feel is not as full and tight as that of Melden and Navy woolen cloth, and the textured bottom plate is faintly visible.

4. Volkswagen is a fabric made of fine combed short hair and recycled wool. Generally, 2/2 twill or 3/1 broken twill weave is adopted, and it is also felted. The appearance of the tweed is similar to that of the blended melton. The tweed is smooth, fine and clean, and it feels tight and elastic, and basically does not pilling or showing the bottom.

5. overcoat woolen cloth is a variety with more specifications in woolen cloth. It is a thick fabric and is named after it is suitable for winter coats. Coats are made of wool with different grades, which are generally felted or felted, with rich texture and strong warmth retention.

6. Flannel flannel is a cashmere variety with stripe dyeing and mixed color in woolen cloth, which mostly adopts twill weave and plain weave. Except the whole wool, the raw materials used are generally wool-viscose blended. Flannel surface is covered with fluff, semi-exposed, plump and delicate, uniform color mixing, soft and elastic to the touch, and good in warmth retention.

7. Women's tweed, also known as women's tweed and women's tweed, is a high-grade fabric in woolen cloth with many varieties. According to the appearance characteristics of tweed, it can be divided into plain tweed, vertical velvet tweed, straight wool tweed and loose structure tweed. Women's tweed has the characteristics of heavy body, soft feel, good warmth and diverse appearance styles.

8. Tweed tweed generally uses two or more kinds of monochromatic yarns, mixed-color yarns, plied color-sandwiched yarns and fancy yarns to cooperate with various patterns to weave patterns with unique styles such as Chinese characters, plaids, stripes, stars and jacquard patterns. The raw materials are mainly middle and low grade wool, wool viscose polyester blended or wool viscose nitrile blended. Tweed can be divided into tweed, textured and suede according to its appearance style. The surface of tweed has short pile, slightly exposed texture, and the texture is tight and thick; Textured tweed has clear surface patterns, even weave patterns and relatively elastic body bones. The surface of suede tweed is covered with fluff, which is neat and soft to the touch.

third, plush

plush, commonly known as Hyperion or Tiger Velvet, is a kind of long pile fabric with raised warp yarns. The plush suede is smooth, the fluff stands upright, the hand feels soft and fluffy, elastic, thick in texture and strong in warmth retention. There are three main varieties: plain color, sandwiched flower and printing.

iv. camel hair

camel hair is short for camel hair, which belongs to knitted brushed fabric, with cotton yarn as the base fabric and woolen yarn as the pile surface. The main varieties of camel hair are as follows.

1. American camel hair American camel hair is made of three or four grades of wool, which is interwoven by one wool yarn and four cotton yarns. The wool content is 46%~5%, and the suede is a single plain color.

2. Anthocyanin camel hair is made of four-grade regenerated wool, the wool content is about 48%, and the suede is mixed with white flowers or colored flowers.

3. Striped camel hair Striped camel hair is spun into wool yarn with a wool content of 65% by three or four grades. Wool yarns of different colors are arranged at a certain distance to form strip patterns, such as water waves, diamonds and lattices.

camel hair is soft in texture, thick in hand, plump in suede, elastic, warm and comfortable to wear.