Wine in the Song Dynasty

Li Huarui

Contains "Research on the History of Song and Xia"

The two Song Dynasties are the major political, economic and cultural events in ancient my country. period of development. In particular, from the middle of the Tang Dynasty to the early Song Dynasty, a tax system and a fiscal system centered on the monopoly law began to be formed. In order to increase fiscal revenue, the Song Dynasty implemented a patent wine policy from beginning to end, encouraging more brewing and selling more, "for fear that people would not drink"①. Therefore, the winemaking industry in the Song Dynasty achieved unprecedented development based on inheritance from the previous generation.

First of all, the theory of koji-making and wine-making technology has been greatly developed in the Song Dynasty. According to the statistics of Lang Tingji, a Qing Dynasty man who compiled "Shengyinbian", the Song Dynasty was the first time in the history of Chinese dynasties to compile the wine classics - koji-making and wine-making technology. The dynasty with the most theories. In Su Shi's "Dongpo Wine Classic", Lin Hong's "Xinfeng Wine Classic", Zhu Gong's "Beishan Wine Classic" in three volumes, Li Bao's "Extended Beishan Wine Classic", Dou Ge's "Wine Book", Fan Chengda's "Guihai" Among many wine classics such as "Jiu Zhi", "Beishan Wine Classic" is a representative work on the theory of koji making and wine making technology in the Song Dynasty. It comprehensively and systematically summarizes the new contributions in koji-making and brewing technology since the Southern and Northern Dynasties: dry fermentation, artificial bacterial strain selection from old koji, heat sterilization, the use of distiller's yeast, and the production and widespread application of red koji.

According to modern classification methods, wine varieties can be divided into four categories: rice wine, fruit wine, prepared wine and white wine. The first three types had been produced before the Song Dynasty, but they did not achieve greater development until the Song Dynasty. In particular, the production of rice wine entered its heyday in history. Rice wine is a brewed wine made from rice and other grains through cooking, saccharification, fermentation, and filtering. Although the production of rice wine has a long history, the name of rice wine roughly first appeared in the literature of the Song Dynasty and Xixia. Comparing the thirteen processes and technologies of rice wine production in the Song Dynasty recorded in "Beishan Wine Classic" with the modern rice wine production process, you will find that the two are very similar. Please see the illustration:

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①Volume 6 of Lu Zuqian's "Details of the System of the Past Dynasties".

The wine-making process in the Song Dynasty: 1. Lying down, 2. Washing rice, 3. Decoction, 4. Tommy, 5. Steamed vinegar elk, 6. Use Qu, 7. Synthetic yeast, 8. Sweet rice, 9. Steamed sweet moose, 10. Wine vessels, 11. Upper trough, 12. Collect wine, 13. Cook wine.

Modern rice wine production process: raw materials → whitening, sieving → soaking → cooking → ingredients (with koji) → pre-fermentation → post-fermentation → filtration → clarification → sterilization → storage → blending → filtration → packaging Bottle → sterilization → finished product.

By comparison, it can be seen that my country's rice wine production reached a very high level in the Song Dynasty more than 800 years ago. Rice wine is a kind of brewed wine with grains as the main raw material, so the development of rice wine production is closely related to the development of agricultural production. Before the mid-Tang Dynasty, millet, millet and other crops were the main varieties of cereal production. Therefore, the raw materials for wine making were mainly millet and millet. From the mid-Tang Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, rice gradually became the main variety in grain production. Correspondingly, rice also became the most important variety as a raw material for wine making in the Song Dynasty, especially glutinous rice. Rice (yellow rice or yellow glutinous rice) is second, wheat and japonica rice are mainly used for making koji. In addition, there are also broomcorn millet, millet and other raw materials, but they have lost their traditional advantages in the past.

Various low-alcohol beverage wines brewed from various fruits and wild fruits, such as grapes, pears, oranges, lychees, hawthorns, bayberries, etc. through fermentation are called fruit wines. The varieties of fruit wine in the Song Dynasty include wine, pear wine, lychee wine, pomegranate wine, coconut wine, betel nut wine, date wine, yellow orange wine, sugarcane wine and honey wine. In terms of their brewing methods, most of these wines are fermented fruit wines. The production quantity of fruit wine in the Song Dynasty was small and the technical level was also low. For example, relying on natural fermentation to brew coconut wine, perry wine, pomegranate wine, and olive wine is still in a relatively primitive and low-level state. The use of grain winemaking methods to brew fruit wines such as grapes, oranges, and lychees destroyed the original flavor of the fruit wine. This was probably the main reason why fruit wine production could not achieve great development in the Song Dynasty.

Prepared wine is based on fermented raw wine, distilled wine or high-quality alcohol, adding flower and fruit ingredients, or aromatic materials or medicinal materials of animals and plants, or combined with other color, aroma and Flavor substances are prepared using different processes such as soaking and distillation.

The mold hawthorn flower wine and fermented wine mentioned by Pang Yuanying of the Song Dynasty are prepared wines made by soaking technology. "Most of the noble families in the capital use fermented fermented wine to pickle wine, which only has a unique aroma. In recent years, mold hawthorn flowers are used to hang the wine in the wine, which is not only fragrant and lovely"①. According to the modern classification method of prepared wines, prepared wines in the Song Dynasty can be divided into two categories: aromatic plant-based wines, flower-based wines and tonic medicinal wines, with more than 80 varieties.

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①Volume 3 of Pang Yuanying's "Wenchang Miscellaneous Records".

Song Dynasty has a dazzling array of wines with many beautiful names. Documents such as Zhang Nengchen's "Jiu Ming Ji", Zhou Mi's "Old Martial Arts", Wu Zimu's "Mengliang Lu" and other documents record more than 280 kinds of famous wines in the Song Dynasty. From this, it can also be seen that the wine varieties in the Song Dynasty have greater development than those in the previous generation. Increase.

Liquor is also called shochu. my country's liquor is a unique distilled liquor in the world. Its advent is a revolutionary breakthrough in the brewing process. But when did my country start producing liquor? In the past, the statement in Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" has been followed, that is, "Shochu is not an ancient method, and its method was created since the Yuan Dynasty." Although since the 1930s, some scientific workers engaged in chemical history have challenged Chen's theory and tried to trace the origin of liquor production back. After more than half a century of discussion, the Eastern Han Dynasty theory and the Tang Dynasty theory have been roughly formed. , Southern Song Dynasty theory and other views, but they are all inconclusive due to lack of strong evidence. The author has also made an in-depth investigation into this, and believes that there was indeed liquor production in the Song Dynasty, which has been discussed in a special article①, so I won’t go into details.

The Song Dynasty was the only feudal dynasty in the history of our country that implemented the wine tasting system from beginning to end. On the basis of inheriting the wine tasting system from the Tang Dynasty, the wine tasting system became more detailed and complete. In the Song Dynasty, there were three popular forms of quenjiu in the country: official wine service (liquor warehouse), licensed wine merchants and buying shops. In some areas, quequ, Sichuan separate brewing method and Wanhu wine system were also practiced in some areas. Here we mainly introduce the official wine service and the shopping mall.

The official supervises the wine service. In the Song Dynasty, the government set up agencies at the state and government levels to brew, sell, and collect liquor taxes, which were called the Capital Liquor Service, and the county level was called the Liquor Service. In the middle and late Northern Song Dynasty, there were 1,861 wine shops in the country. Ma Duanlin said that "every state has a brewery in its cities"②. However, the distribution of wine services is not limited to large and medium-sized cities. There are wine services even in very remote villages. For example, the local chronicles of Ningbo and "Baoqing Siming Zhi" contain: "Lin Village Wine Service, Taoyuan Township, Go to County Three "Ten miles away." "Issue 5, 1993; "Re-discussion on the Beginning of Chinese Soju" and "Collected Works on Song History" Hebei University Press, 2001 edition.

②Volume 17 of Ma Duanlin's "Tongkao of Documents".

③Volume 12 of Luo Jun's "Baoqing Siming Zhi".

There are two types of supervisors in the Song Dynasty wine business. One is the administrative staff who specializes in wine research and supervises the wine production process. The other is the officials who specialize in supervising the wine class. They are responsible for Liquor tax. The main form of liquor sales in the Song Dynasty was the same as that in the Han and Tang dynasties. Local officials set up restaurants and hotels for sale. Due to the relatively developed commodity economy in the modern era, wholesale and retail commercial outlets were formed in various places with government hotels (buildings) as the axis, that is, private merchants or licensed wine merchants were allowed to collect and distribute wine in wine warehouses and restaurants established by the government. In order to expand the sales of wine, these private traders or licensed wine merchants were called "foot shops", "paihu" or "bohu" at that time.

Due to the war against Jin in the early Southern Song Dynasty, military expenditures increased sharply, so various wine warehouses with the name of supporting the army sprung up like bamboo shoots after a rain. Their names were: Supporting the Army Wine Store and Supporting the Army Reward Wine Store. , supporting the army's reward wine warehouse, Huiyi wine warehouse, minister's wine warehouse, etc. Liquor warehouses are generally directly under the Ministry of Household Affairs or government departments. The direct operation of wine warehouses by the military was a major feature of the liquor system in the Southern Song Dynasty. Yue Fei and Han Shizhong, the famous anti-jin generals, each operated more than a dozen wine warehouses. The wine warehouse is a brewing and wholesale institution. There are many auction houses and foot shops that wholesale and retail wine from here. A wine warehouse uses millions or even tens of millions of wine bottles a year, so there is a porcelain kiln near the wine warehouse specifically for firing bottles for use in the wine warehouse.

Generally speaking, the size of a winery is determined by the amount of wine produced. The Minister's Treasury of Jiankang Prefecture, which has "seventy rooms", is obviously much larger than the Sanjun Liquor Storehouse, which has only "six rooms" in Dinghai County, Qingyuan Prefecture during the same period. However, compared with the "houses" of "Jianlong" The inner wine shop with "one hundred and eighty rooms"② is dwarfed by the "180 rooms"③ of the capital wine shop in Huzhou during the Jiatai period. Wine warehouses in the Southern Song Dynasty are quite similar in form to modern wineries. Wine warehouses usually have warehouse areas, production areas, wine storage areas, dormitories for officials, winemakers, and winemakers, as well as specialized office areas.

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①Volume 5 of Luo Jun's "Baoqing Siming Zhi" "Yingzhai Wine Storehouse".

② "Song Hui Yao Collection" contains two out of three differences.

③Volume 8 of "Jiatai Wu Xingzhi".

Buy Pufangchang. In the Song Dynasty, due to the development of social production, maipu existed widely in the economic field. Maipu is also called Pumai. Regarding the meaning of the word "pu", the ancients interpreted it as "fighting to fight until day" or "fighting with hands to fight day". According to "Ciyuan" recorded in Meng Yuanlao's "Tokyo Menghua Lu", the meaning of "Guan Pu" is interpreted as a bet for betting. It can be seen that "pu" means to compete, fight, and place bets to determine the outcome. Accordingly, to call "pupu" is nothing more than the bidders bidding each other before the seller, which is like the meaning of sumo wrestling and competition for victory. The nature of maipufangchang is actually a tax package system, and the word "fangchang" here refers to wineries and wineries. The method is to first sign a contract with the government by the tax collector who has the ability to use assets as collateral. Contracting usually lasted for three years (called a boundary at the time). During the contract period, the tax contractor obtained the right to sell wine, and no other person was allowed to intervene. However, the tax contractor had to pay the wine tax to the government on time according to the amount of wine tax stipulated in the contract. If you fail to pay on time, you will be fined. If a tax collector runs a farm and suffers losses or goes bankrupt due to poor management, his mortgaged assets will be confiscated. Later, there were new developments in the buying and selling method, and the actual sealing and submitting form method similar to the current bidding method appeared. This method stipulates that the purchaser first marks the price of his contract in a sealed proposal, and the government selects the one with the highest price among the numerous proposals to sign the contract. During the Northern Song Dynasty, the households that ran wine shops were mainly rich and wealthy. During the Southern Song Dynasty, the army and the government also contracted the wine shops as buyers. This was a new economic phenomenon that appeared in the Song Dynasty.

In the Song Dynasty, in order to ensure the income of official wine courses, the government strictly divided the official wine-prohibited areas in the form of legislation, that is, the cities where the capital and various state capitals are located, and the locations of rural wine shops (the scope is generally within Surrounding areas ranging from tens of miles to tens of miles) and other regulations and sales areas. They are not allowed to cross the border with each other. At the same time, within the forbidden area, private wine sales by private households are generally not allowed, resulting in no other branches but the government. This is a major feature of Guanjiu in the Song Dynasty. Of course, in principle, wine can be brewed outside the forbidden areas of the government or if the wine is not produced for sale. There were three major systems for the production of non-commercial wine in the Song Dynasty: First, wine brewed by the government for personal use, such as French wine, royal wine, and minister wine wait. The second is the wine brewed by the clan, Qili and Pingguan families for their own use. The third is wine brewed in the countryside for self-use.

Private liquor was a social issue in the Song Dynasty. Bans and restrictions on illicit liquor usually included two contents. One was in the form of legislation, prohibiting brewing activities other than those licensed or permitted by the government. The second is to inspect and crack down on illegal drinking activities that have already occurred. The Song Dynasty's legislation prohibiting illegal drinking and inspecting illegal alcohol were very strict. Some officials, such as Wang Sizong, went down in history to give advice and advice on how to achieve immortality, which is considered to be a lenient policy that does not harm the profoundness of the government. He said: "In this state (Tongzhou), if the amount of quefu is less than three liters, the person who brews it will die if it is more than three liters. The injury will be severe. I am afraid that people will follow this way, and I hope that from now on, the provincial level will be allowed to be convicted." " ① The difference between multi-core and nine buckets can extend human lives, which can be seen as a glimpse of the cruelty. For the exclusive benefit of the government, the activities of arresting smuggled wine songs in the Song Dynasty reached appalling proportions. Wang Dayou, a native of the Southern Song Dynasty: "Today, those who arrest drunkards have an empty home. If neighbors come forward, they will falsely accuse them of resisting the arrest, and the lawsuit will no longer be clear. The violence of arresting drunkards is worse than robbery. Those who kill people will be punished for one crime, and The young and old are at ease. If they are caught drinking wine, the whole family will be arrested. It is not

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① "History of the Song Dynasty" Volume 287 "Biography of Wang Sizong".

To suffer the consequences is to commit the crime of drinking, which is more serious than murder. ” ① Although the law is strictly enforced and prohibition and wine arresting are as good as preventing theft, these are all for the “lonely and weak” people, and those bureaucrats collude with each other and rely on their power to make private brewing public, making the prohibition law ineffective. Paper text. A folk song from the Lin'an area during the Jianyan period: "If you want to get rich, sell wine and vinegar in a hurry. ” ② It is a portrayal of what this kind of naughty person does. The situation of non-commercial wine being sold for profit is roughly similar to that of private wine, which is also banned repeatedly. This shows the corruption of officialdom in the Song Dynasty.

The late Japanese scholar Mr. Kato Shigeru said when talking about the urban changes in the Song Dynasty: "Among them, the square system collapsed, and everyone opened their doors to the streets. The market system collapsed more and more completely, and shops could be located everywhere inside and outside the city. On the main street, amusement places with concentrated theaters called Wazi were set up, and two- and three-story restaurants stood facing the main street. These situations only began in the Song Dynasty. ” ③ Indeed, the restaurants in the Song Dynasty were spectacular and exquisite. Meng Yuanlao’s "Tokyo Menghua Lu" recorded it very clearly: "The front door of every hotel in the capital is bound to Cailou and Huanmen." Entering the door of Wei Ren Store, you can walk up to the main corridor for about a hundred steps. The two corridors of the north and south patios are equipped with small pavilions, which are illuminated by candles and lamps in the evening... The Bailun Tower was changed to the Fengle Tower. During the Xuanhe period, three floors were built, with the fifth floor facing each other, each using a flying bridge sill to communicate light and dark, bead curtains embroidered on the forehead, lights and candles shining... The Jiuqiaomen Market Hotel, the building facing each other, the embroidery and embroidery attract each other, covering In the Yitian day and after the Zhenghe period, the Changqing Tower under the east wall of Jinling Palace was especially prosperous. "④ Here are only a few representative restaurants. In fact, there were 72 restaurants similar to these in Bianjing at that time, and their prosperity is self-evident.

Lin'an, the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty, There are many restaurants, and the decoration customs are all imitated in Tokyo. Although it has become a relatively safe situation, it is more luxurious. At that time, there were two types of restaurants in Hangzhou. One was the official wine warehouse belonging to the Ministry of Household Inspection Office, and each warehouse had its own winery. Restaurants. One type is privately owned restaurants. Regardless of whether they are government-owned or private, their luxurious situation is roughly the same. In addition to restaurants, there are also "garden hotels", which are either built in imitation of garden buildings in the city or in the suburbs for literati. Hold gatherings such as cultural gatherings. Restaurants and hotels not only pay attention to decoration, but also pay attention to the "artistic" charm inside. They often hang paintings and calligraphy, or leave a blank space on the wall for diners to write poems and paintings. "History of Painting" believes that the paintings painted by Cheng Tan, Cui Bai, Hou Feng, Ma Bi, Zhang Zifang and other painters are vulgar, "all can stain the walls of teahouses and hotels, and can be hung together with Zhou Yue Zhongyi cursive calligraphy." This shows that hanging calligraphy and painting in hotels at that time was More fashionable.

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①Volume 88 of Lou Yao's "Gong Wei Collection" "Fu Wenge Bachelor's Announcement of the Official Reward to Special Admission to Wang Gong"

②Zhang Zhifu's "Keshu"

③Chinese translation of Kato Shigeru's "Chinese Economic History", Commercial Press, 1959 edition, page 277

④Meng. Volume 2 of the Elder's "Tokyo Menghua Lu" "Restaurant"

In the Song Dynasty, wine flags and wine curtains were often hung in front of restaurants and hotels in villages and towns, which also had the word "wang" on them. Jiu Wangzi, "Rong Zhai Xu Bi": "Nowadays, the capital, county wine clerks, and all wine shops have large curtains outside, covered with several pieces of blue and white cloth. " ① It is the logo of the restaurant and has a strong advertising color. Kong Pingzhong's "Wine Curtain" poem says: "A hundred-foot windy outer curtain often hangs high in the pavilion. If you praise the wine for its delicious taste, talk to passers-by and encourage them to drink. ” ②

In the private restaurants of the Song Dynasty, it was a grand event to prepare wine to welcome the new year every year. In Tokyo, Northern Song Dynasty, “Before the Mid-Autumn Festival, all the stores sold new wine, and the facades were decorated with colorful buildings and flower heads. Painting poles, drunken immortals and brocades, people in the city compete for drinks. By noon, every house has no wine, so they drag down their Wangzi."③. In the Southern Song Dynasty, the wine warehouses in Hangzhou were even more lively for cooking, with cooking in April and Qing in September." On the morning of the invasion, all the warehouses were arranged and tidied up, and they went to the teaching field of the state capital to wait for the occupation. The first sign is written on a white cloth that is more than three feet high, "A certain warehouse has selected a famous master winemaker to brew a high-quality, strong and spicy wine, and it is the first in the competition." It is called the "cloth sign" and is hung with a long bamboo, with three or five people. Walk with support. First, several generations of drums and music officials were used, and then several loads of wine were presented. The next Eight Immortals and Taoists, all the guilds and teams."

"In addition to various dramas and other arts, I also studied for the fish father, hunted with bamboo horses, and the story of the Eight Immortals... The place I passed by was filled with tall buildings and pavilions, embroidered curtains like clouds, and tired people looking over their shoulders. It was truly called a 'sea of ??thousands of people'" Also”④.

In order to maximize the amount of wine tax, the officials of the Song Dynasty used singing girls to assist in business operations. "Today, using women to advocate selling wine is a day: find a way to do it" ⑤. "He also ordered the prostitutes to wrap their heads in flower kerchiefs to protect the restaurant, and they also had flower nests, five-cooked plate racks, cages for freeing animals, etc. Each storehouse competed for new ones, and the prostitutes' strings were stored in the storehouse."⑥ At that time, the official treasury under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Household Inspection Office "had dozens of official prostitutes in each treasury", and the private restaurants had "dozens of private prostitutes in each place, all wearing makeup and clothes, and smiling cleverly to show off their beauty"⑦.

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①The first chapter of "Wine Book" in Volume 16 of Hong Mai's "Rong Zhai's Continuation".

②Volume 22 of "Qingjiang Sankong Collection" compiled by Wang Wei.

③Volume 8 of Meng Yuanlao's "Tokyo Menghua Lu".

④Volume 2 of Zhou Mi's "Old Martial Arts".

⑤Volume 15 of Wang Mao's "Yuke Series".

⑥Volume 2 of Zhou Mi's "Old Martial Arts".

⑦Volume 6 of Zhou Mi's "Old Martial Arts".

The prosperity of restaurants in the Song Dynasty is inseparable from the fact that the government regarded wine as an important tax source. Generous income from drinking classes was one of the important material foundations and pillars of the centralization of authoritarianism in the Song Dynasty. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the number of wine classes was only 1.85 million guan, accounting for less than 10% of the total monetary income. In the Tianxi year, it increased to nearly 9 million guan, accounting for 33.3% of the total monetary income at that time. It continued to grow steadily thereafter. During the Qingli period of Renzong, the number reached as high as 17.1 million guan, accounting for 38.9%, and then decreased year by year. In the 10th year of Shenzong Xining, there were still more than 13.1 million guan, accounting for 25.9%. Wine lessons in the Southern Song Dynasty also amounted to more than 10 million yuan, accounting for about 20% of the total monetary income in the Southern Song Dynasty. Obviously, the huge liquor profits obtained by the rulers of the Song Dynasty through monopoly or violent means to maximize the exploitation of producers and consumers served as the economic pillar to maintain their own existence and ruling order, and to satisfy the hedonistic corruption of the ruling group. Wealth has a negative impact on social development that cannot be underestimated. But on the other hand, the huge income from wine classes was directly used for military expenditures to resist the invasion of Liao, Xia, and Jin. "Military expenditures are insufficient, especially by taking advantage of the world's wine industry." In terms of ravage, it has a certain progressive effect, which should not be ignored.

(Originally published in "Literary and Historical Knowledge" Issue 2, 2004)

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①Li Tao's "Continuation of Zi Zhi Tong Jian Long Edition" Volume 1 March 3, Renchen, the eighth month of the first year of Qingli.