1. Development Department:

1. Designer: Design leather shoe styles according to customer or market requirements. Create a sample image.

2. Development Department: Based on the shoe samples designed by the drama designer, the materials, quantity, and loss required for the leather shoes will be evaluated and calculated. Make a process sheet and submit it to the production department.

2. Production Department:

1. Raw material warehouse, auxiliary material warehouse

Based on the materials (fabrics, fabrics, Linings, outsourced items, lasts, soles, packaging, etc.) will be inspected and put into storage, and those that fail will not be put into storage.

2. Cutting workshop

(1) Cutting clerk: Use the pattern made by the designer to mark and cut it on the fabric. The same pair must have the same size and skin. The texture and thickness are uniform. A pair of leather shoes is sewn from multiple small pieces of material, and the small pieces of material are named uppers.

(2) Inspector: Conduct strict inspection on shoe uppers. The inspection content includes that the same pair must have the same size, uniform skin texture, thickness, etc. Skin rejuvenation involves skin scars, old lines, disabilities, loose skin, etc.

(3) Leather cutter: When thinning the seams and edges of the shoe upper, attention must be paid to the width and thickness of the thinning according to the craft list.

(4) Accessory material clerk: Cut according to the accessory material sample provided by the designer, and the size, measurement, etc. will be the same. Auxiliary materials include: front leather, back leather, interlining, light foam, EVA, toe cap, taproot, trademark insole, etc. of leather shoes.

(5) Accessory materials appraiser: The edges of certain accessories, such as linings, buns, taproots, etc., are too thick and thin.

(6) Baotou and tap root grinder: Grind the edges of the cap and tap root smooth.

After the above is completed, the invoicing drama will be handed over to the sewing machine warehouse after passing the accounting (number).

3. Sewing workshop

(1) Marking: The trademark, item number, and ruler are clearly printed on the lining of the leather shoes through a marking machine using fluorescent paper.

(2) Be a helper: receive shoe uppers, accessories, outsourcing materials, powder glue, etc. according to the quantity assigned by (__zuo4 bang1 yuan2 _an4) warehouse clerk. Use the template designed by the designer (the template for the scriber described earlier is different from that of the helper, the one in the front is larger and the one in the back is smaller) and mark according to the process. Do not cut off the excess, and powder the edges. The glue is kneaded and kneaded. The interlining and lining are pasted on the fabric according to the size and square box.

(3) Car helper: (Generally, the car helper and the car helper are paired) Follow the helper's marking, knocking and stitching on the fabric to sew and sew the lining. , the same pair must have even stitches, the same stitch length, and the same stitches.

(4) Inspector: Strictly inspect the completed shoes and bags. The appearance, gauge, stitch length, needle thread, etc. of the same pair must be consistent, the seams are flat, and the excess threads are cut off.

After the above is completed, the invoicing drama will be handed over to the molding warehouse after passing the accounting (number).

4. Molding workshop

A. Clamp assembly line

(1) Material picker: receive shoe bags, lasts, midsoles, toe caps, and taproots , yellow glue, Tianna water, yuan nails, white latex, soles, resin glue, packaging materials, etc.

(2). Separate the lasts: Separate the lasts into each plastic basket according to the item number and size.

(3). Nail the midsole: Use 416 industrial nails to nail the midsole. Nailed on the last head.

(4) Ingredients: The item number of the upper is consistent with the last size and size of the shoe used.

(5). Paste: Baotou and taproot (chemical tablets) are soaked in Tianna water and softened, then use yellow glue to paste the capotou and taproot on the front and heel of the shoe bag (lining and between fabrics).

(6) Write the job number——(7) Finalize the upper of the shoe (the position of the face of the shoe)——(8) Place the product (shoes, bags, shoes)——(9) Car bag head line—— —(10) Cut the toes — (11) Shape the heel surface — (12) Brush the soles and midsoles of shoes and bags with white latex — (13) — Press and last — (14) Upper clamping machine (shoes and bags) Put it on the last head, use the pliers to complete the basic head shape) - (15) Toe top inspection - (16) Clamp the middle section (manual, pull down the middle part of the shoe and use the element on the toe area) Fix it with nails so that the shoe bag is flat on the last) - (17) Back bag (_hou4 bao1) Clamp upper (machine, the heel bag and the sole of the foot are flat on the midsole) - (18) Hammer shoes (equivalent to inspection , The heel height of the same pair, the front part of the face, the length of the face, the size, the skin texture, the thickness, etc. are consistent, and the skin beauty treatment must include scars, old lines, disability, loose surface, loose needlework, unsewed needlework, etc.

Knock the protruding parts flat with a hammer) - (19) Hot air wrinkle removal - ((_re4 feng1 qu4 zhou4 ___)20) Shoe washing - (21) Put the shoes into the oven (after entering the oven, the temperature is between about 100-150 Carry out the shaping) - (22) Pull out the nails - (23) Flatten - (24) Dry the thread ends - (25) Grind the rear legs - (26) Overall inspection of the clamp section (_qian2 duan4 zong3 ti3) B. Post-processing line (27) Shoe washing twice - (28) Cleaning - (29) Baotou water washing - (30) Stuffing cardboard, dispensing glue - (31) Throwing dust - (32) once Spraying (spray the paint on the leather shoes evenly on the surface of the leather shoes through gas and spray gun, and then enter the assembly line oven for drying. One-time spraying is also called base) - (33) Head and tail spraying (emphasis on the head and tail of the leather shoes) Enhance the spray paint to make it brighter) - (34) Spray the whole body (also called enhance the brightness, add spray or spray again to the areas that were not sprayed in the previous two steps) - (35) Shoe polish - ( _ca1 xie2 you2 __) (36) Wipe decorative buttons and remove cardboard (opposite to the 30th step) - (37) Polish and fill (because the leather shoes were dark after spraying and polishing, after this step, Leather shoes become brighter) - (38) Drying (also called enhanced brightness) - (39) Wax removal and shoe picking (a material called wax is used during filling and drying, which may remain on the shoe surface. So this step is to erase traces of wax)

C. Floor-attaching assembly line

(40) Sole matching (according to the size of the shoe, the item number and the size of the sole, use The soles of the shoes are consistent and placed on the assembly line) - (41) Brushing (rawling is machine grinding wheel treatment on the bottom of the shoe's foot and the rubber sole, which will enhance the anti-degumming degree of the shoe) - (42) Sole treatment agent (new soles contain dust and other impurities on the sole glue and surface during production, processing and transportation, and are treated with treated water, which will enhance the anti-degumming degree of the shoes) - (43) Primary upper glue, sole glue - — (44) Secondary upper glue, sole glue — (45) Sole sticking (the sole and upper are pasted through resin (_tie1 di3 _xie2 di3 _xie2 mian4 jing1 guo4 shu4 zhi1) glue after the temperature rises, and the shoes and soles , Chima must be the same) - (46) Pressing (also called a press, which uses air pressure or hydraulic pressure to press the shoes and soles to make them stronger and not easy to degumming and opening) - (47) Glue wiping ( Because the secondary upper glue and sole glue will inevitably come out of place, the edges of the shoes need to be erased and offset)

D. Finishing assembly line

(48) Pick up Shoes - (49) primary polishing (leather shoes will inevitably appear in the hands of employees who have gone through multiple processes) - (50) secondary polishing - (51) last removal (last molds are taken out from the shoes) ——(52) Touch the nails (feel inside the shoes to see if there are any nails that have not been pulled out to hold the midsole or nail the midsole) ——(53) Step on the trademark (put the company’s trademark on the insole)——(54) ) Bottom of the chamber (attached to the insole of the shoe) - (55) Cut the safety belt (put the safety belt in the elastic part of the shoe when riding the upper, so that it will not deform during the manufacturing process) - (56) Put on the shoelaces (for _chuanxiedai_zhen dui ) Shoes that require laces) - (57) Glue inspection - (58) Auxiliary inspection - (59) Finished product inspection - 60) Upper repair (it is inevitable that damage to the upper will occur in various places such as the floor-attached assembly line) If the paint causes damage, repair the leather shoes after the finished product is inspected) - (61) Shoe stretch (wrap a semicircular sponge with white paper and stuff it into the shoe to prevent the shoe from deforming in the shoe box, etc.) - ( 62) Tube support (for women's cotton shoes and boots) - (63) Mark the mark, put the certificate (print the item number, mark, color, model and leather material of the shoes on the shoe box) - —(64) Throw away dust and add desiccant (shoes passing through many hands on the assembly line will inevitably leave imprints of fingerprints, dust, etc.) —(65) Packing (same pair with the same item number, size, and color, Separate the same pair of shoes with non-woven fabric and put them in a shoe box with a handbag)——(6

6) Divide shoes (there are many problems in the production process) > The purchaser will contact the manufacturer based on the color card of the confirmed sample and ask them to confirm whether they can produce the material. If so, place an order immediately.

2. Cutting

1. Knife tube: Responsible for the order. The development department receives cardboard cutting molds and manages all molds.

2. Blanking: divided into large punching and small punching.

Large punching: several pieces of material can be cut together. Mainly punching leather materials, linings and accessories.

Small punching: cannot be cut together, mainly punching leather materials.

3. Inspection: Count and inspect the punched materials. /p>

4. Line drawing and trimming

5. Ingredients: Responsible for matching materials to avoid color difference

3. Sewing the upper surface

Different styles of shoes have different sewing processes, but they have the following similarities:

1. First, stitch the inside of the head, stitch the inside and back of the sides, and stitch the top and sides Sew inside;

2. Reinforce. Generally use slices, hot melt glue or Furong cloth for reinforcement;

3. Wrap the tongue with sponge and order the tongue;

4. Pound the places where the fabric is reversed;

5. Sew the upper from the inside to the outside;

6. Paste Back lining, cover the back with sponge;

7. Non-waterproof shoes: only the back lining;

Waterproof shoes: tongue lining, back top lining and waterproof lining are required;

8. Punch holes and press shoe buckles

★The quality inspection of the upper should mainly pay attention to whether there are the following problems:

1. Cleanliness; 2. Dropped needles. , skipped stitches, dropped threads, floating threads; 3. Wrong sewing thread; 4. The toe and rear are crooked; 5. The nose is crooked, and the tongue is crooked; 6. Hidden damage to the leather; 7. Broken tongue and sponge ; 8. The margins are too large and the route is not smooth; 9. The left and right parts are asymmetrical; 9. The color of the leather is different; 10. The embroidery pattern is crooked; 11. The high-frequency pressure is not in place; 12. The front and rear lining is not in place and the lining is off; 13. The elasticity of the rear sponge is different; 14. The rear sponge is not in place; 15. The punching height is high and low.

4. Molding

Molding process:

1. Front section: pick up materials and cut the shoe last, brush the Hong Kong Baoshui, put on the shoelaces, car mesh, brush the upper surface, brush the white glue on the midsole, brush the midsole with white glue, climb the front heel, pull the waist, help, climb the back heel, draw the line, grind and repair the upper part of the shoe. sulfur

2. Middle section: pick up materials, place the bottom surface, break the bottom, break the primary surface glue, primary bottom glue, secondary surface glue, secondary bottom glue, apply the bottom press machine, refill the glue, press the edge, untie the shoelaces in the freezer, and pull out the shoelaces Last

3. Back section: Picking up materials, placing them on the surface, lining them, stuffing paper, drying threads, wearing shoelaces, cleaning uppers, cleaning soles, cleaning shoes, repairing shoes, labeling and hanging tags, with inner box and small packaging

The following Specific operation instructions for each process:

◆Brush Hong Kong treasure water: strengthen the hardness of Hong Kong treasure.

Mix an appropriate proportion of Harbor Water. Generally, the ratio of quick-drying: toluene is 7:3. The ratio can be adjusted appropriately depending on the temperature and material.

Gently pull the inner collar apart and use a brush to wipe the Hong Kong Bao evenly and make it moisture-permeable. Don't use too much to prevent it from penetrating inside and causing contamination. Hong Kong Bao Shui should not be brushed onto the uppers or feet, nor should it overflow onto the uppers.

◆Tie shoelaces: The shoelaces should not be tied too loosely or too tightly;

◆Car mesh feet: completely cover the shoe upper, with a margin of generally 3- 5mm.

◆Pair matching: Check that the left and right feet are the same size. The toe size, back cover height, and toe size must be consistent. If there is color difference in the printing or suede upper, please pair them one by one.

◆Brush white glue on the upper surface: Brush white glue along 10-12mm of the upper edge. Evenly in place, the upper must be consistent with the last number.

◆Brush white glue on the midsole: Brush a circle of white glue on the periphery of the fine cloth surface of the midsole, about 12-15mm wide, and on the other side, brush the forefoot and heel once each. Brush the bottom of the last head with white glue once on the front and back, and the position should match the glue position on the middle plate.

◆Climb the front: Adjust the height of the heel first, and expose the inner collar to the middle panel. Place the last head flat on the support platform and align it with the center point of the first claw. Shoes must be straight, with the center points of the toe, eyelet, and heel in a straight line. The sweeper should be pressed for at least 3 seconds, and the toe should not be cornered or wrinkled. The toe size must be consistent with the sample.

◆Waist pull-up: First align with the heel height mark, and the back heel must be higher than the middle plate. First, pull the inner waist to make it smooth and stick to the last. When pulling the outer waist, the shoe body should not be wrinkled. It must be straight. Generally, the inner waist is higher than the outer waist

◆Helper heel: The height of the heel must be aligned with the height mark of the last. The hindquarters and inner collar must be climbed into the middle panel. The back cover must not be horny or wrinkled. It takes at least 3 seconds to sweep the knife.

◆Line drawing: Adjust the pressure of the line drawing machine and choose the correct hydrolytic pen or silver pen. The curvature of the line drawing mold pad must match the curvature of the outsole. The bottom mold cannot be used incorrectly. When drawing a line, draw a smooth arc along the large base edge. The shoes must be placed straight and not skewed. The height of the left and right feet and the size of the toes must be the same.

◆Roughening: The upper is made of PVC and does not need to be roughened. Just grind the toe and heel flat. When roughening the PU material, do not damage the fabric. The leather should be roughened according to the drawn line and should be roughened to the point of fluffing. The roughening must be in place, but not beyond the line; the coarsening powder must be dealt with cleanly. The purpose of roughening is to allow the glue to better penetrate into the material and make the material more elastic.

◆ Adding sulfur: stabilizing effect. Straighten out the shoe tongues, pair the semi-finished products that have passed the quality inspection, and put them neatly into the vulcanization box. The shoes must not hit the hanging basket to prevent the uppers from being damaged or stained. The sulfur adding temperature is 80℃-110℃ and the time is 115-17 minutes.

◆Face breaking: refers to cleaning the shoe upper with liquid. Choose a potion that matches the standard quality. The potion must be washed evenly and in place according to the drawn line. The potion must not spill over the upper of the shoe, and the suede material potion must not exceed the drawn line.

◆Breaking the soles: Refers to cleaning the soles with liquid. Choose a potion that matches the standard quality. The potion must be washed evenly and in place according to the curvature of the sole. The potion must not spill over the surface of the side wall.

◆One-time glue: brush in place according to the drawn line, and do not exceed the drawn line; do not pile glue on the upper; do not contaminate the upper with glue.

◆One-time base glue: Apply glue in place, do not overflow on the bottom side wall, do not pile glue, and do not accumulate glue in the bottom to avoid rotting the bottom.

◆Secondary glue: press the glue line and do not exceed the primary glue line.

◆Second priming: The method is the same as primary priming.

Sole attachment: The shoe upper, last size, and outsole size should be consistent, and there should be no errors. Focus on the center point and attach the toe first and then the heel. There should be no glue overflow or lack of glue. The upper and outsole fit together within 40 seconds after leaving the oven.

Upper freezer: plays a stabilizing role. Pairs of semi-finished shoes that have passed the quality inspection should be placed in the freezer. The shoes should be placed neatly and should not be squeezed or bumped to prevent damage or soiling of the shoes. The temperature is 4℃-5℃ and the time is 12-17 minutes. After coming out of the freezer, there should be no water droplets on the uppers.

◆ Lasting: Adjust the height of the lasting machine to make the back cover and outsole of the shoe evenly stressed. The back cover should not wrinkle after lasting.

Place the lining: First check the SIZE of the finished product and insert the corresponding lining smoothly into the shoe. The toe box must be fully in place, not to the left or right.

◆Paper stuffing: implemented according to customer requirements. (To keep the shoes from deforming).

◆Cleaning of shoe uppers: Use scouring oil to clean the stains, water marks and hydrolyzed pen lines on the shoe uppers. Do not use toluene for cleaning; do not stick any treatment agent to the suede material; do not rub the uppers hard to prevent discoloration.

◆Cleaning the outsole: Use stain removal oil to clean the stains on the outsole. Do not rub hard to prevent the outsole texture from being flattened and shiny. Do not use quick-drying toluene.

◆Glue removal wire: Use a glue removal stick or raw rubber block to clean the glue line that is higher than the edge of the outsole. Do not damage the upper and outsole when cleaning.

◆Hang the hang tag: The hang tag should be hung at the location requested by the customer according to the size, color and number, and the direction cannot be reversed.

◆Two pairs: According to the customer's regulations, whether to tie a pair.

◆Small packaging: The specifications of the inner box must be used according to the correct segment. Wrapping paper, material, color, and desiccant are used according to customer requirements. The placement method of the inner parts of the finished shoes is also according to the customer's requirements.

★The quality inspection after molding mainly looks at the following aspects:

1. Cleanliness;

2. Hardness of the outer Hong Kong treasure;

3. Whether there are wrinkles on the upper surface;

4. The adhesion of the outsole;

5. The pairing situation;

6. Packaging.

Summary: The shoemaking process is interconnected, and each link must be operated according to the prescribed standards and strictly controlled, otherwise the quality of the shoes will be affected.

Other equipment required for the shoemaking production line

1. The knife mold for cutting and blanking is designed and manufactured according to the shoe shape and based on standardized cardboard; 2. The last used for molding can be They are divided into plastic lasts and aluminum lasts. Generally, it is more economical to use plastic lasts in the production of cold-bonded shoes due to the changes in last type. For sports shoes or casual shoes with larger batches, it is better to use aluminum lasts. A molding production line requires about 800-1,200 pairs; 3. The quality inspection personnel of the clamping team and the sample room personnel use bird-beak pliers, and a molding production line must prepare 8-10 pairs; 4. Use a punching die to make shoe eyelets, depending on the shoe The surface design is made of standard cardboard 5. When clamping the upper, fix the shoe arch with a wide heel distance, and use it in sections according to the shoe size design; 6. Use a wire wheel for roughening and a nylon brush for glue removal 7. Manual roughening machine , decontamination spray guns, markers and other scattered equipment;

General consumption calculation:

The first type: A. Leather type B. Accessories (mesh, lining, lining , Sponge, Hougang Bao, Qiangang Bao)

Calculation in yards: 1.37 meters 914 meters = 1.2536 square meters conversion data one yard

54 inches Suede leather is calculated in feet

1 foot = 12X12 square inches = 144 square inches = 0.0929 square meters

General loss rate: A. Leather (space, nubuck) 3

B. Accessories 3

C. Leather (top layer/second layer/suede) 8-20

For example: back-mouth The consumption of 1 pair is 824 square meters (40X20X103 square meters), then the number of yards required for 1 pair is:

824 square meters/1.2536 square meters = 657.3 yards

Head The consumption of 1 pair of layer leather is 1920 square meters (80X20X120), then the feet required for 1 pair is:

1920 square meters/0.0929 square meters = 20667 feet