Write down this topic and I will know that I have approached a dead end. Because many of us can't taste the real Dahongpao tea. Even the wife of the national leader asked: Who is qualified to drink Dahongpao?
Shi Zedao, the abbot of Tianxin Yongle Temple, said that drinking tea depends on fate.
What is fate? The monk explained that the high unity of time and space, matter, conditions and spirit is fate. He went on to say that time allows meeting, space provides a place, matter itself exists, conditions are accidental and coincidental, and spiritual pursuit is the same. These four predestination conditions are indispensable. Only fate. In other words, even if Dahongpao is in front of you, you may not know it is Dahongpao. Because everyone's spiritual pursuit is not exactly the same. Like a cup, monks like to use it as a metaphor: when tea is full, it is a cup; When it is filled with water, it is a tile; Crushed, it is porcelain clay; When it becomes dust, it is molecules, photons and protons. In different people's eyes, cups have different meanings and structures. A cup is a name, just like tea: it can be broken down into tea, leaves, plants, tea polyphenols, catechins and amino acids. I guess that monks used to drink Dahongpao, and they didn't feel very good after drinking it, so they said so. Even he said that to everyone. Maybe there is another Zen machine?
Dahongpao certainly exists and has existed for many years. Even Wang Xizhi will write the word "late", which seems to prove that the Dahongpao he once drank is as vigorous and refined as his words. Later generations carved his words on the rocks, giving people a feeling of freedom and elegance, which made the tour guide proudly let the tourists guess what the word "Hou" was every time. When many people guessed the word "ju", the tour guide showed a happy face: "That's the word" Hou ",according to legend ..." But through these words, I feel that the word "Hou" is as cunning as the current tour guide, which means that I got a reputation after so many years of wind and rain. I don't want to create some difficult words for you, thinking that I am a freeloader. Come up and hang up if you want to witness Dahongpao. It smells like "you come up, I'll go down"
Wuyi Rock Tea was praised for the first time as early as the Southern Dynasty (479-502 AD), and the earliest written record was found in Sun Qiao's "Send Tea to Burn Books" in the Tang Dynasty, which was called "Waiting Later". Calling tea "Hou" is both anthropomorphic and official. It can be seen that Wuyishan rock tea has a hobby of "climbing dragons and attaching phoenixes" since ancient times.
Many famous things, including those that have been handed down for thousands of years, are puzzled by countless mysteries, just like the scriptures written by Jiuyin Zhen Jing in Sanskrit at last. Let's see if you can understand it. Even if you are familiar with ancient and modern times, you may not know Sanskrit. Culture, culture, too understand, no culture?
Dahongpao grows on the rock wall of Wuyi Mountain Tianxin.
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People say that Tianxin Rock has three pieces, like a heart-shaped word, and that's how the word Xinyan came from.
The monk said that Fiona Fang in Wuyishan is 12 square kilometers. Looking down from the air, the location of Tianxin is the center, and it is also the location of Buddhist and Taoist temples, so it is called Tianxin, which means center. These two statements correspond to the mountain landforms of Wuyi Mountain. Hehe, I think they are different. When the whole Wuyishan Jiuquxi bamboo raft swims down, the stones under Yunu Mountain look like cow dung hundreds of times bigger. As for Jade Girl Mountain, you can't see her own taste. He also said that there were three selves side by side, and that the smallest one on the left was derailed, pregnant and turned his face shyly. It's a mess I don't know what to say.
What worries me most is that there is no consensus on describing a species that has been circulating for thousands of years. Will Dahongpao be like this?
The local people said that those tea trees on the rocks were to prevent others from stealing, so they "fired a shot": "Oh, that's Dahongpao, look!" Oh, my God, there is. How many dynasties people look up to it, high above it, and feel like they are on earth. But that's a lie! The locals all know.
Monks know it's fake. The monk's master once told the monk that it was really somewhere else, and the monk said with a smile. Who says there is deception behind a smile?
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According to the introduction on the stone tablet of Mingshan Garden in Kowloon, the famous Abies planted here are: Bletilla Crown, Jinguanyin, Daphne odora, Wicker, Centennial Fragrance, Cordate telosma, Oolong, Turtle, Lohan, Golden Key, Guazijin, golden phoenix, Guangdong Zhonggui, Su Xinlan, Beidou, Zizun, Banbianyao and Bai Mudan. ***27 varieties.
It is difficult to distinguish the arrangement of so many varieties, so some people divide rock tea into "four famous Chinese fir", such as Dahongpao, Lohan, Bletilla striata, Shuijinggui, etc., and there are also tea trees named after their growing environment, such as Buqiantian and Golden Key. Named after the shapes of tea trees, such as drunken begonia, drunken Dong Bin, scarab, phoenix fern, jade unicorn, a fragrant branch, etc. Named after the shape of tea, such as melon seeds, money, bamboo, golden wicker, willow, etc. Named after the early and late germination of tea trees, such as spring willow and spring; Named after tea flavor, such as cinnamon, stone frankincense, white musk, etc.
Wuyi rock tea has many varieties and flower names, each with a name. As early as 1950, there were more than 970 tea names with different colors.
Dahongpao was not planted in Mingzong Garden. Because there are only six trees in Dahongpao among the rocks in the mountains, the offspring variety of cutting with the branches of these six female tea trees is called Beidou. If Dahongpao is compared to the special drink of dignitaries, then Beidou is the Dahongpao that the folk people drink.
Beidou is Beidou. Who told us that we are all human beings? The Beidou that people drink is very common, and you hardly know its characteristics. Strange, Wuyishan people will know what species. I'm surprised: why do they know so many varieties? One day I brought someone else's peach varieties to taste, hehe, no one is right. I am so proud: it turns out that they only know their own varieties, but they don't know other people's tea varieties! Then, let me change my mind: if the people who send them tea seedlings name the tea "Qingming", will they always call this tea "Qingming" in the future? Ha ha.
The legend of Dahongpao is more absurd than Tieguanyin. Although they all have a side attached to the powerful, they reflect the helplessness of tea farmers all their lives: relying on the powerful to enhance their social status. Tieguanyin was named by the emperor, and the East Gate said "nonsense". And the two legends of Dahongpao are also related to nobles. Strange: How can tea have anything to do with noble people? Didn't labor create history and nobility promoted it?
Legend has it that the monks of Tianxin Temple cured an emperor's illness with tea made from tea buds on the rock wall of Kowloon. The emperor put a red robe on the tea tree to show his gratitude. The red robe dyed the tea tree red, hence the name "Dahongpao". It is also said that a candidate fell ill on the way, and monk Tianxinyan saved his life with tea soup. Candidates put their red robes on tea trees after winning the top prize, hence the name Dahongpao. It's also nonsense! Not to mention, how can a red robe cover an eight-foot rock? Even if it is covered, the mountain wind will fall to the ground at any time. Who cares if the tea tree will grow up after it is covered? Ha ha.
"Dahongpao" is a kind of fir tea tree, which grows on the high cliff in Jiulong, Wuyishan, and the stone carving of "Dahongpao" made by the monks of Tianxin Temple in 1927 is still preserved on the rock wall. The cliff rocks are east-west, where the sunshine is short, the light is reflected more, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and there are fine springs seeping and dripping on the top of the rock all the year round. This special natural environment has created the special quality of Dahongpao. Dahongpao has six tea trees, three of which are said to be mother trees, and the other three are the first generation. They are all shrub tea trees with thick leaves and reddish buds. When sunlight shines on tea trees and rocks, the rock light is reflected, and the red color is very eye-catching.
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According to all the literature, "Dahongpao" is the best quality of Wuyi rock tea. Few people have drunk it anyway, so let's just say. We haven't drunk it, so it's not easy to deny our previous judgment.
Wuyi rock tea is produced in Wuyishan, Fujian. Wuyishan is located in the southeast of Chong 'an, Fujian, 60 kilometers away from Fiona Fang, with 36 peaks and 99 rocks. Rock has tea, tea is named after rock, and rock is distinguished by tea, hence the name rock tea. Wuyishan has a long history of tea production. Tea was planted in the Tang Dynasty and was listed as a royal tribute in the Song Dynasty. In the Yuan Dynasty, a royal tea garden was set up along the Jiuqu River in Wuyishan to collect tribute tea and create oolong tea in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The making method of Dahongpao is the making method of oolong tea.
The processing technology of "Dahongpao" tea is similar to other rock teas, but it is more refined. Picking new buds with leaves open for 3-4 days every spring, drying in the sun, cooling, cooking, frying, primary kneading, re-frying, re-kneading, boiling in water, winnowing, spreading, cooling, picking, redrying, re-winnowing and fire-supplementing.
According to the records in the book, the quality characteristics of "Dahongpao" are: compact appearance, green color, brown fresh, orange-yellow bright soup color after brewing, and red-green leaves. Typical leaves have the aesthetic feeling of green leaves and red edges. The most prominent feature of Dahongpao's quality is its rich fragrance with orchid fragrance, high and lasting fragrance and obvious "rock rhyme". Dahongpao is very resistant to foam, and it still smells after being soaked for seven or eight times. When drinking "Dahongpao" tea, you must follow the formula of "Kung Fu Tea" in small pots and cups, so that you can truly taste the charm of rock tea.
After reading these lines, I didn't feel the strangeness of Dahongpao. If I remember, we talked about "rock rhyme", which is the charm from the little red robe. Little red robe. It is a kind of mixed tea invented by local people. It is said that the quality is not lost to Dahongpao. Made of cinnamon, narcissus, dwarf oolong and other varieties produced in Tianxinyan Jiulong. Those who were lucky enough to drink it at last year's tea party are still fresh in their memories. At that time, ordinary people only said it was wild rock tea, but it was actually a variety of mixed tea, which tasted good.
Little red robe. A name that Wuyishan people like to call.
There is no tea named "Little Red Robe" in the world, but it may be the name of tea hyped by the original merchants. Its original intention is that Wuyi rock tea is not as good as Dahongpao, and its taste is close to Dahongpao quality. However, after a long time, people never saw Dahongpao again. Where is the little red robe? Therefore, the ever-changing Wuyishan rock tea has been hyped by merchants in various ways.
The common people take making a small red robe as the highest realm: first, we should carefully taste the rough tea of rock tea, and make a reasonable combination of several varieties such as old fir narcissus, cinnamon, short-legged oolong and yellow peony after identifying their respective advantages. With the mellow fragrance of daffodil tea, the soup taste of osmanthus tea, the sweetness of short-legged oolong, the fragrance of yellow tea and the rock rhyme of other exotic species in Wuyi. After mixing, after being approved by the tea preparation teacher, it is baked at a low temperature of about 80℃ for a long time for about 8 ~ 15 hours, spread, selected and annealed. In about 20 days, rock tea with excellent quality will be born: people vividly call this rare quality "Little Red Robe"-the lineal of Dahongpao.
Strangely, the Wuyishan municipal government has a tacit understanding of the phenomenon of little red robe after registering the special name of Dahongpao. As a result, there are people's little red robes everywhere, but no one has registered trademarks and packaging. The chaotic Wuyi rock tea looks more charming. There are four little devils and eight kings everywhere, and tourists complain a lot. Finally, they complained that there was no good tea in Wuyishan!
Is there really no good tea in Wuyishan? No. There is good tea. According to my investigation of Wuyishan tea market, I found that Wuyishan is full of good tea. The key point is that Wuyishan people don't know the concept of good tea, and tourists don't know much about Wuyi rock tea, so they pass by with good tea.
Wuyishan is really full of good tea.
First of all, there is no industrial pollution above Fiona Fang 100 km in Wuyishan, whether it is rock tea growing on the edge of rocks, mainland tea growing around it or tea growing elsewhere. It is a double protection site of the world's natural and cultural heritage. After years of cultivation, people have formed a good environmental awareness. A good environment is the basis of producing good tea. Secondly, Wuyi Rock Tea's tea king appraisal activities again and again made local tea factories try their best to show their housekeeping skills for fear of falling behind others. The introduction of this competitive mechanism will undoubtedly make a qualitative leap in the development momentum of Wuyi tea industry.
The counties around Wuyishan, such as Jian 'ou, Jianyang, Songxi, Zhenghe, have a tradition of producing tea since ancient times. The mountains here are high and the emperor is far away, and the natural climate is very suitable for tea growth. According to records, there are two ancestors of China tea: one is the big leaf tea represented by Bashu, which belongs to the pure wild state; The other is lobular tea represented by Wuyishan vein, which belongs to the variety of wild tea domesticated by ancestors. We are not botanists and have no right to comment on right or wrong. But the Jianzhou tea mentioned in the tea classics is here. There was no Anxi tea at that time!
There is a tea environment, plus the history of tea production. We have no reason to suspect that there is no good tea in that place.
Look at the old man over there. Everyone drinks tea. Everyone lives a long life, full of energy and high spirits. This gives me another idea: what is the purpose of drinking tea?
Many people have studied Zen tea blindly. The content of Buddhist practice is abstinence, determination and wisdom. Where is the tea? Tea has pharmacological effects of refreshing the brain, promoting fluid production and quenching thirst, and is rich in nutrients, so you can enter a "quiet environment" for meditation, keep your spirit, think and be enlightened. At the same time, the tea soup is light and clean, which not only does not violate the Buddhist precepts, but also conforms to the Buddhist attitude of being calm and indifferent. Tea has become a necessity for Buddhist monks and conforms to Buddhist teachings. The inner sound of Buddhist spirit and tea is the necessity of tea and Buddhism. Buddhism generally believes that tea has three virtues: first, meditation, staying up late, tea can refresh the brain; The second is to help digestion and despise spirit; The third is "hairless", which can inhibit sexual desire. Therefore, drinking tea is in line with the Buddhist moral concept, so tea is naturally favored by Buddhist monks.
Tea is so useful to monks, and monks in Wuyishan also like to fight tea! According to records, "during the Wu and Jin Dynasties, Buddhism was introduced into Fujian from the Central Plains, so Buddhist temples were built one after another. Jianzhou has beautiful mountains and rivers, quiet valleys, and literati make Buddhist temples and walk in the opposite direction. " There are Buddhist temples everywhere in eleven counties headed by Jianzhou. At this time, "monks in Wuyishan have planted tea". Wuyishan is known as the "source of Buddhism and Taoism", with a long history, prosperous Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism, and profound historical and cultural heritage. "There are many famous monks in the world, and monks have loved to fight tea since ancient times." Tea activities in Buddhist temples have an indissoluble bond with tea culture in improving tea drinking skills and spreading tea drinking customs.
Tea is good for your health. Tea tastes good, delicious and beneficial, and a little addictive. Is that a good thing?
At this point, I can say that Dahongpao is a mystery, and there are many inexplicable places in this mystery.
Dahongpao, as a costume worn on the body, is called red robe, so why is it a "big" word? Is it for emphasis or color? If the big red is to distinguish pink, pink and other colors, then the big red means unique. If it only refers to clothes, besides the red robe is not enough to attract some "attention" factors, then the word "big" is added to highlight the significance of the red robe.
These are not surprising at first. What is strange is that the name was given by a Taoist priest. It stands to reason that monks who see through the world of mortals have a common name of "waiting late", which is very proud. They became tea officials and knighted like people. In addition to their reverence and love for tea, they added a sacred color: "That's a marquis". If ordinary people have to call it "Sir Alex Ferguson". Of course, no matter how crazy ancient people were, they didn't dare to be so crazy as they are now. At best, they say they are official posts in the world. Unlike some teas, a name is directly called "Xianhao", but it is something sent by the gods in the sky, which is bigger than the emperors on earth. It tastes like fog.
It is not enough for the monk to name the tea, but also to name it, so there are several legends on it. If it is a true story, there is nothing to doubt and there is not much room for imagination. I thought it was untrue, so I had a second legend. Neither legend can explain how Dahongpao became the mystery of tea. Therefore, it is said that the red robe is put on the tea tree to show gratitude.
Let's talk about whether candidates have to go through Tianxinyan to take the exam. Anyone who has been to Tianxin Rock knows that it is not a road, but a dead end, full of peaks and gullies. It doesn't matter if you get lost. How many top scholars have been born in Wuyi Mountain? That's a historical issue. Which champion fainted in Tianxinyan, was saved by a monk, won fame, and then put on a red robe on a tea tree? The second legend seems more reasonable. Officials in Beijing were saved by the tribute of tea and gave the red robe to the tea tree to show their gratitude, but some monks said that death tells no tales.
All kinds of rumors are full of loopholes. Otherwise, it will not cast a mysterious color on the legend-although this mystery is not IQ, it has also stunned several generations of tea drinkers. When people tell this not-so-beautiful story over and over again, there will always be a sacred look on their faces, so that in the end, this sacred look will suddenly turn a poor tea into a magical product. So some people who understand it say that this is tea culture. When you don't understand it, you can imagine that you can be fascinated by it, taste it, taste it outside the nine heavens, and taste it among the three emperors and five emperors. Hehe, if you ask me, no one will think that "there is no such tea at all" until death!
Bodhi trees have no trees, and the mirror platform is not a platform. There is nothing, so there is no dust. Hehe, there is no tea in red robes, and rumors are everywhere. Drinking tea is good for your health, so you don't have to pay homage in red robes.
(End) June 6, 2003