Gothic style and clothing characteristics
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About " Gothic The origin of the word "originally comes from a tribe called the Visigoths in early Europe. This tribe that took pleasure in destruction and plunder was known for its ignorance and lack of artistic taste. =cwdl7N&I
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In medieval Europe, an architectural style with spire cathedrals as its most prominent feature became popular, resulting in the so-called "Gothic" architectural style of that period.`TDpi9OB
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During the Victorian period in England, horror novels created by a group of writers represented by Edgar Allan Poe, Mary Shelly and Bram Stoker were also called the "Gothic" style. At this point, the horror and decadence in the Gothic style have been complemented almost perfectly. Gothic clothing is greatly influenced by architecture, and its clothing characteristics are: Vertical styling lines and pleats are mostly used to make the wearer look slender, and the height of the body is increased by heightening the hat, giving people a light and upward feeling. Special attention is paid to the relief effect and lines of the appearance, and the women's tops are tight-fitting. The skirt on the lower body is wide, light at the top and heavy at the bottom, forming a conical shape, which is highly decorative. /V"6Q'D
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In the Middle Ages, skirt length was a mark of class, and only noble ladies were allowed to sweep the floor at the back and had the right to dye it green. The dividing lines and decorative lines on clothing are mostly longitudinal and vertical lines. 1x3>XN]a
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13— The Gothic style was the most popular in European clothing in the 15th century. The pointed henin hat is like a small steeple, there are two leggings with different colors, pointed cocked shoes, a top decorated with asymmetrical patterns, etc. 9lR-
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The popular Gothic fashion is often asymmetrical, but the so-called Gothic fashion nowadays is just a little bit asymmetrical. With a touch of Gothic art, it looks more commercial, which makes "Gothic" sound more like a promotional slogan. H9Dw#.em
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In the last few years of the 20th century, the word "Gothic" appeared with increasing frequency in fashion newspapers. iu.$P-s
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The Gothic art popular in modern fashion is a kind of romantic art. Therefore, Gothic fashion can be regarded as a branch of the currently popular neo-romantic fashion. European medieval spire cathedrals. , the masterpiece of horror Gothic literature "The Vampire Chronicles", and the heavy metal bands of the 1980s... they seem to be far away from today's Goths. After seeing the world Y0;66bfh}
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After the lively 2004 autumn and winter fashion conferences by the world's top fashion designers, a mysterious force quietly appeared on the fashion stage - neo-Gothic clothing style (New Trend of Gothic) locked our attention +&*Ybbhb
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New Gothic pop is supported by music and movies. Neo-Gothic clothing style is inextricably linked to music. It first emerged in the Western music industry in the late 1970s. . In the garden of non-mainstream music, some alternative rock bands have gradually grown into gothic rock groups. A small number of outliers are not affected by popular trends. Their music is full of descriptions of death, pain, darkness, and sexual desire. and experience, the style is weird and mysterious, and it was a huge commercial success when it appeared.
Therefore, under the influence of music, a clothing style based on this trend emerged in the 1980s. 9FcH\2J
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The popularity of black clothes started with Bauhaus, a band with unknown gender orientation. They always wore coquettish makeup Makeup, and bring this trend into fashion trends, men wear lace clothes, high heels, jewelry, thigh-high boots... in short, a variety of dazzling clothing 01. ">$
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The typical goth outfit is a black turtleneck tight leather jacket and silver jewelry with complex patterns. The most important thing is the dark circles under the eyes and a sad and numb expression. . For them, it means a certain spiritual state. 5{\;7(
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Young people embraced it and went crazy for it. Teenagers began to imitate their dressing, and they took it seriously. dz ,4);Mg
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In the 1990s, Gothic music fell out of favor, but Gothic culture became popular. At that time, Hollywood has experienced a revival of horror movies based on Gothic literature. In a series of blockbuster films, such as "Edward Scissorhands", "The Vampire 400" and "Interview with the Vampire", the idol star Johnny Depp, Winona Ryder's pale and beautiful appearance, clear and innocent eyes, coupled with the eerie and eerie atmosphere of the movie, and the sometimes romantic and sometimes terrifying plot make people fascinated. With the wave of heat caused by the movie, Gothic culture has been injected. New excitement. fK; I0J
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Goth fashion has also changed subtly, with curly hair, high ponytails and combat pants being the order of the day, long and straight. Hair, Victorian velvet and lace are also a trend; leather and plastic clothing have also become fashionable, but the only thing that is always popular in goth fashion is black skinny jeans. Are you a goth? :X )
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In 2001, with the unprecedented global success of the epic fantasy blockbuster "The Lord of the Rings", Gothic culture spanned the east and west and became a global As a result, major fashion magazines have predicted that Gothic fashion will lead a new trend, and designers are also waiting for the opportunity. >
After the 2003 autumn and winter fashion show, this mysterious force has quietly appeared on the fashion stage. At the Gucci fashion show, before the models appeared, the entire environment was filled with the sound effects of howling wolves and flapping bats. Looking full of ghosts in the middle, Tom Ford asked the models to hang black crosses around their necks, wear wide black ties, wear black satin coats with waistbands, and black bias-cut robes, showing people his carefully prepared Gothic style. Elegant and sexy. K?gO ]T{6
=g The classic American brand Ralph Lauren also turned the conference into a sea of ??black, and the models Wearing a long priest cloak and a floor-length fishtail skirt, the black ribbon tied around her neck made her skin look like snow, and her gothic rhombus earrings swayed as she walked, showing a sense of medieval mystery, romantic and Full of charm. n{E9p3i CQI\/oaO Dior simply moved a jewelry show to the Ritz Hotel, decorated the room into a haunted castle, and transformed the entire party. Named "Vampire's Ball", ladies and celebrities party all night long without getting drunk. Fashion has become an interactive game, played both spiritually and physically by the initiators and participants. 0khAi|PY t&nK5p95( While admiring it, thoughtful people also discovered that artificial leather, PVC fabrics, plastics and other fabrics that were popular in Gothic clothing in the 1980s Gone, replaced by light chiffon, soft brocade and luxurious fur. In addition to the classic black, some rich and luxurious tones, such as dark red, dark brown, sapphire blue, etc., have also begun to appear. The close-fitting tops, long skirts, carefully designed necklaces, and earrings all outline a sexy and elegant female image... #bCzWg :8l#jU `y A closer look Next, the Gothic clothing style on the T stage has been improved by designers, and the decadent atmosphere of the past is no longer near death. The spooky, dark and terrifying atmosphere turned out to be just a suspicion created by them deliberately to attract attention. Wiping our eyes, we unconditionally accepted the awakening "pseudo-darkness" force in front of us. .( With long black hair hanging loose, thick black eye shadow, and expressionless faces, countless designers turned their stages into shows showing goth fashion. The neo-goth clothing style has ushered in a new era. The visual shock wave... Characteristics of Gothic clothing One fabric`]m/z a%7 The fabrics of Gothic clothing are mostly made of lace , fishnet, pu leather, patent leather, soft sheepskin, chiffon, satin, feathers, elastic cotton, linen, etc. Nj|~3 *KO V SUz+W Second auxiliary materials DY!mq91 Commonly used auxiliary materials include metal or silver buckles, iron chains, zippers, rivets, pearls, diamond jewelry, etc. {uji7TB hP26Bb1 Three colors}*3#*y " The color choice of Gothic style is mainly black, which gives people a mysterious, sexy and noble feeling. Secondly, red (bright red, dark red) is used, Dark purple (eggplant color), dark green, lake blue and gray are used in combination with black. z{dn 9Qhk~^ngg Four style features} P/ x@N Today's Gothic costumes inherit the characteristics of medieval costumes, and constantly incorporate new concepts in the development of society, deriving costumes with strong practicality and non-stage exaggeration effects that only emphasize one feeling. The mysterious feeling of Gothic. In addition, the slightly punk-style Gothic clothing combined with the Scottish pattern represents the transformation process from post-punk to gothic, and the addition of Gothic elements to ladylike dresses and baby dolls. The lolilta style is formed. 1PdxoRa4= The Gothic style focuses on the coordination of details and the whole. h2#S ? 1 Hollow out. : V0' _PR@; The superimposition of lace and fabric produces a good hollow effect. The red or purple revealed from the black pattern net creates a mysterious and sexy visual experience in the hollow fabric clothing. The pale skin is vaguely exposed underneath, which is one of the characteristics of the Gothic style; ; #^Jy#) 2 Dark patterns on the fabric: I6,sN9` K This kind of hidden flowers on fabrics are mostly totems or round lines, and there are also flower and grass patterns. They are usually woven or embroidered directly on the fabric, and printing is not commonly used. This kind of fabric is not ostentatious but does not lose its content. It represents the delicacy and sophistication of the Goths and is full of aristocratic temperament |? l6S 3 Bundle waistband 8/* 6&#- A lady's girdle with a masochistic tone. The bra represents the oppression of women in the Middle Ages. Although it has been replaced by today's comfortable and compliant bras, this costume is still used in today's Gothic clothing. Coupled with patent leather and metal-made bondage SM costumes, it echoes the themes of neutrality and sadomasochism in the Gothic style. There's nothing more exciting than a slender waist tied with ribbons. aok,qn'j 4 Complex pleats and simple lines/]*#+;;% The stacking effect created by pleats adds a touch of luxury to Gothic clothing. The large ruffled neckline, cuffs, and huge skirt continue the gorgeous decadence of the declining aristocracy in the 18th century. The corresponding thin lines and simple style tailoring can not only slim the body and create a devilish figure, but also reflect calmness and dignity, which coincides with the inner world of the Goths. J>Uzd, / ua!g}m~ Five keys to shaping Gothic style jboQ)NxT!, In women’s clothing, We mostly use soft chiffon fabrics, satin, yarn, and lace to express women's gracefulness and sexiness. Especially the light chiffon, the wearer is like an evil angel floating from hell, making people desire but out of reach. In addition to gorgeous satin fabrics, men's clothing also uses synthetic fabrics, leather and canvas to express male strength and tenacity. Let men be filled with the style of a ruler. 1 GL@t?S 1 Collar>4}2~; Towering stand-up collar_Ak?i\ Exaggerated lotus leaf collar|. zotEh V-neck' of5v6:8 2 shoulders;qF#!Kb5 High shoulder pads@|^2 +K/ 3 sleeves = ?hx+-' High sleeves]'UO]i/ Slender narrow sleeves $LF Tightened cuffs and loose hem cuffs|ei?s1) 4 waist G/Xa`4"_ High waist Pb| 'f( Corset AE) 5 Skirt Odr@9MJ Slender dress skirt q(Y Princess skirt with big hem e_wz8]K)n 6 pants C'hI{4@P Tight chicken leg pants 26E"Ui5q Loose culottes v?yHj- 7 Shoes B(mxW8y Thick-soled stiletto shoes, extra-long slender heels, pointed boots, metal shoes There are never too many chains Picture: 7_5.jpg Rococo is the transliteration of the French rococo. This word comes from the French ro-caille (shell craft), which means that this style uses rocks and clam shells. It is characterized by decoration. It is a gorgeously carved, delicate and cumbersome art style that combines Baroque style with Chinese decorative taste. Although Baroque art has rigid etiquette, formal arrogance and exaggeration, But it was a masculine period after all, and the period that followed, Rococo art, which began around the time of Louis XIV's death in 1715, was more refined, more artificial, and more rigid. It is also more delicate. It can be considered that one of the hallmarks of this period is the popularity of porcelain in Europe in the early 18th century. Originally, people had been using bulky silver tableware to create huge sculptures, but now they are using large pieces of stone. The use of fragile porcelain for tableware and the creation of small, exquisite porcelain figurines reflected the spirit of this romantic period. The absolute authority of the monarchy and the church promoted the development of dynamic expressions in the 17th century. It was needed by the representatives of absolutism in order to express themselves and to concretely explain their demands for arbitrary power. In the 18th century, these authority figures lost their prestige, not only because of the ideological and moral decline of some secular and ecclesiastical nobles due to their dissolute conduct. The loss of prestige was also due to the development of rational thinking in natural science and philosophy, which enabled people to realize the shortcomings of the old social system. This kind of optimistic self-confidence based on critical thinking, and the associated unlimited self-confidence in one's own abilities, ultimately led to the elegance of personal emotional value. People like pastoral-style light-hearted lyrics and Anacreon-style poems. They no longer want the moral heroic epics that praise duty, honor and will in 17th-century tragedies, but prefer the reality of comedy. Its realistic typification and wonderful dialogue style. During this period, the plastic arts were a loyal servant of this ideologically and morally liberated society. Despite this, Rococo art is not a unique, creative or completely different art style from Baroque art, because it is oval in shape, and there are two smaller oval halls between the Central Hall and the West Hall. between. In short, inside the church, the oval hall and the rotunda repeatedly cross each other. This "polyphonic nature" can be compared with a fugue composed by Bach. The advocate of the Rococo artistic style was Madame Pompadour (1721-1764). She not only participated in military and diplomatic affairs, but also influenced the artistic style of the time as a cultural "protector". Madame Pompadour's original name was Jeanne Antoinette Poisson. She was born in a family of financial speculators in Paris. She later became the lover of Louis XV, and then became the king's personal secretary. Louis XV named her Pompadour. Marquise Pardew. Under the initiative of Madame Pompadour, the Rococo art style was born, which gave the 17th-century sculpture style a prosperous atmosphere under the Sun King. It was particularly soft and charming when rubbed by the slender hands of this noble lady in the 18th century. Rococo Architecture Rococo secular architectural art is characterized by light-structured garden-style mansions, which increasingly crowd out the majestic palace buildings of the Baroque. Here, individuals can develop freely without being disturbed by the boastful court society. For example, names such as Xiaoyao Palace or Guanjinglou indicate the private character of these mansions. Prince Eugene's Garden Palace is a lively and rhythmic whole, consisting of seven symmetrically arranged pavilion-style buildings. Its folded mansard roof spreads gracefully and proportionally from the middle to the domes of the four corner towers (Figure 202). The single-story main hall with the gable above has an almost middle-class comfort, while the two wide double-story wings show the splendor of the owner, but without the arrogance of the princes and nobles. Two single-story buildings of moderate width are located between the tower-style pavilions, and the majesty of the pavilions gives the entire building the characteristics of a solid castle - in short, very different architectural ideas, but unified in an elegant inner connection . It is this careless arrangement of architectural groups of simply contradictory forms and styles that clearly embodies the spirit of Rococo art. The staircase hall of the Würzburg Archbishop's Palace leaves a good impression on the elegance of late Baroque architecture. Neumann wasted lavishly here, designing two symmetrical stair halls, only one of which was built. However, this alone is enough to give this magnificent interior space a spectacular atmosphere, and this atmosphere is passed on to a series of buildings such as the front hall, garden hall and pilgrimage hall (Fig. 207). The ceiling paintings painted by the Venetian Tiepolo in the Staircase Hall and Hajj Hall brought the charm of architectural art to an unparalleled level. The ceiling is transformed into colorful lights by a huge 600-square-meter ceiling painting, which seems to be shining into the room from the open sky. The sky is filled with grotesque figures that subtly obscure the boundaries between architecture and painting (for example, the dog appears to be standing on a raised horizontal stripe). Plaster rosettes are also squeezed into the painting, while the figures occupy the architectural space with the sculptural objects in their hands. With this illusionary technique, the complete unity of painting, sculpture and architecture is achieved. ① Curves are interesting. C-shaped, S-shaped, swirl-shaped and other curves are commonly used for decorative effects. ②The composition is not symmetrical, but has a light and elegant sense of movement. ③The color is soft, bright and light, giving people a sense of relaxation and comfort. ④ Advocate for "nature" that has been artificially modified. ⑤The humor and elegance of the characters express various kinds of love, such as romantic love, sexual love, maternal love, etc. Baroque fashion, contrary to the geometric rigor of Mannerism and Spanish fashion, was deeply influenced by a vibrant sense of life, which is the same situation as architecture and plastic arts. The wheel-like pintuck collar that once contrasted with a flat or padded collar now hangs down without stiffness, and later was simply replaced by a lace collar that fell flat on the shoulders. The hats all have wide brim and can be made into wide, high or slanted styles according to the temperament of each person, and the hair can be worn freely. If you lack natural hair, you can use a wig. Since Louis VIII, especially in France, wigs have become the most impressive feature. The long wig is fluffy and curled at the top of the head, and then divided into two wings that hang down to the shoulders and chest. Rococo furniture men's clothing still continues to use tops with loose hems that can also be sewn close to the waist. The sleeves are lace cuffs, or short sleeves that are only three-quarters of the length of the arm, revealing the lace shirt underneath. The trousers fell loosely in a baggy shape to the stockings, where they were tied with rosette ribbons. Around 1675, men's three-piece suits appeared that are still popular today. The top has evolved into a waistcoat that reaches the knees, and is covered with a heavily decorated coat sewn close to the waist. The trousers are slender shorts that reach the knees, and underneath are silk stockings and shoes with buckles. Baroque women's clothing gave up the geometric rigor of the Spanish bell skirt, but retained the wide hips and tight corset. Over a petticoat of different colors, there is a bell-shaped long skirt, mostly pleated in front and trailing behind. Rococo women's clothing became coquettish, with pleats, ruffles, random lace and raised petticoats. A dome-shaped whalebone circle replaced the ancient bell-style skirt, resulting in the typical female silhouette effect of the late Baroque period. From the overly wide skirt to the thin shoulders to the towering head with a hairstyle, the whole person Appears as a cone.