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Clothing pattern making knowledge

Clothing production process (1) Production preparation

Incoming factory inspection of surface accessories → technical preparation → pattern making → test sample → sample sealing → formulate process documents → cutting → sewing Production → Confirm the first piece (first washing tank) → Button buttoning → Ironing → Garment inspection → Packaging → Warehousing and shipping.

(2) The purpose and requirements of inspection of fabrics and accessories. According to the details of the invoice, if there is a short code/missing phenomenon, you must personally participate in the inventory and confirm the bulk goods. Follow the order and be responsible for the delivery date of the bulk goods and the fabric purchase. After the factory, a quantity count and appearance and internal quality inspection must be carried out, and only those products that meet the production requirements can be put into production. Before mass production, technical preparations must first be carried out, including the formulation of process sheets, samples and sample garment production. Only after the sample garments are confirmed by the customer can the next production process be entered. Fabrics are cut and sewn into semi-finished products. After some woven fabrics are made into semi-finished products, they must be processed according to special process requirements, such as garment washing, garment sand washing, twisting effect processing, etc., and finally buttonhole fastening. The auxiliary process and ironing process will be packaged and stored after passing the inspection. Check the face/auxiliary materials according to the order consumption confirmed by the customer, and report the specific data to the company in writing. If there is a shortage of materials, replenishment matters must be implemented in a timely manner and the customer must be informed. If there is any excess, it must be reported to the customer and returned to the warehouse for storage after the bulk shipment is completed. It must be used sparingly and eliminate waste. Since the quality of the gray fabric is directly related to the quality and output of the finished product, before cutting, the number of pieces, size, density, batch number, and linear density must be checked according to the cutting cloth ingredient list to see if they meet the requirements. During the fabric inspection, the gray fabrics must be inspected one by one according to the standards. Carry out inspections, and mark and record quality defects that affect the quality of finished products, such as stains, missing stitches, holes, oil stains, etc.

Maintaining good fabric quality is an important part of controlling the quality of finished products. ring. Through the inspection and measurement of fabrics entering the factory, the authenticity rate of clothing can be effectively improved.

Fabric inspection includes two aspects: appearance quality and intrinsic quality. In terms of appearance, the fabric is mainly inspected for damage, stains, weaving defects, color differences, etc. For fabrics that have been sand-washed, attention should also be paid to whether there are sand-washing defects such as sand channels, dead pleats, and cracks. Defects that affect the appearance must be noted with markers during inspection and avoided during cutting.

The intrinsic quality of fabrics mainly includes shrinkage, color fastness and gram weight (mm, ounces). When conducting inspection sampling, representative samples of different varieties and colors produced by different manufacturers should be cut for testing to ensure the accuracy of the data.

At the same time, the auxiliary materials entering the factory must also be inspected, such as elastic band shrinkage, adhesive lining fastness, zipper smoothness, etc. Accessories that do not meet the requirements will not be put into production.

(3) The main content of technical preparation is to receive samples and original data, make reasonable cardboard according to the process requirements (refer to the customer's original sample), and keep records of various technical processes, and conduct a thorough review of the production process. Responsible for technical problems encountered during the process. Arrange the production of sample clothes according to the sample time specified by the customer and the factory department, and make good probabilities. When making sample clothes, if the process sheet is unclear, you should take the initiative to ask the follower or the factory director for help. They go to discuss with clients and cannot make their own decisions. Carefully review the information on the customer's process sheet and original sample garments, and clearly understand the customer's requirements, dimensions, raw materials and ingredients, etc. When making approval samples for the customer, the principle is to facilitate the production of the workshop and prompt the production that can be simplified. sewing process. After the sample is completed, compare the original sample and the process sheet to confirm that it is correct before sending it out. According to the motherboard, adjust the board according to the size chart and the shrinkage rate of the fabric. Launch boards of other sizes, and do a good job of reviewing the samples. The text, silk threads, embroidery, style number, and so on should be noted on the samples. If the factory has not made samples in the early stage, it must arrange for them to quickly make samples for confirmation before production, and notify the person in charge of the factory and the factory technical department in writing of the inspection results. Under special circumstances, it must be submitted to the company or customer for confirmation, and it can be put into production only after the corrections are correct. After proofreading the factory-cut sample, the pattern length can be confirmed. The detailed record of the unit consumption confirmation letter will be signed and confirmed by the person in charge of the factory, and he will be notified of the cutting start.

Before mass production, technicians must first make technical preparations before mass production. Technical preparation includes three contents: craft sheet, sample formulation and sample garment production. Technical preparation is an important means to ensure that mass production proceeds smoothly and that the final product meets customer requirements.

The process sheet is a guiding document in clothing processing. It puts forward detailed requirements for clothing specifications, sewing, ironing, packaging, etc., as well as details such as the matching of clothing accessories and seam density. Also make it clear. Each process in garment processing should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the process sheet. 1. Organize the information for mass production (pre-production sample confirmation, sample modification comments, fabric color card, accessories card, size chart); 2. Sewing requirements, sewing process, and process diagrams. 3. Fabrics, accessories, ordering of plastic bags, and cartons required for mass production; ironing methods, confirmation of packaging methods, and cartoning distribution. Sample production requires accurate dimensions and complete specifications. The contours of relevant parts match accurately. The clothing model number, location, specification, silk weave direction and quality requirements should be marked on the sample, and a sample composite seal should be stamped on the relevant splicing points. Make the pre-production version: Use the accessories for bulk goods (if there is no material, you can temporarily substitute it, but it needs to be clearly marked), make the correct pre-production sample, follow up and get approval (including process, size, accessories, style, etc.), in short, it is the pre-production sample ). After completing the formulation of process sheets and samples, small batches of sample garments can be produced, inconsistencies can be corrected in a timely manner according to customer and process requirements, and process difficulties can be tackled so that large-volume assembly operations can proceed smoothly. After the sample is confirmed and signed by the customer, it becomes one of the important inspection basis. Can promptly discover some problems that may arise in production and ask customers if they want to make corrections. When writing about the process, please pay attention to: 1: Whether the materials are correct. 2: Whether the size is "accurate". 3: Whether the style is wrong. 4: Is the workmanship meticulous? 5: Whether the color of the finished product is "correct". 6: Is there any missing material? 7: Whether the materials can arrive at the processing plant as scheduled. 8: Is there any problem with time? Before production, it is necessary to test the working hours of each process, make a process sheet, and find the workshop director to confirm and modify it. In the initial stage of production, semi-finished products must be inspected to high standards in every workshop and every process. If there are any problems, they must be promptly reported to the person in charge of the factory and the corresponding management personnel, and the factory shall be supervised and assisted in implementing rectifications. After the first finished product is rolled off the machine in each workshop, its size, workmanship, style, and craftsmanship must be comprehensively and carefully inspected. When 20-30 pieces are shipped in the mid-term, check whether they have been washed and select 20 pieces of shampoo tanks. After washing, an inspection report (initial/mid/final stage of mass production) and rectification opinions will be issued. After signature and confirmation by the person in charge of the processing plant, one copy will be retained by the factory, and one copy will be retained by yourself and faxed to the company. Record and summarize work every day and formulate a work plan for tomorrow. Make a production plan in advance according to the delivery date of bulk goods, record the factory cutting progress, production progress, finished product status, and the number of machines put into production in detail every day, and implement the progress according to the production plan and supervise the factory. Production progress must be reported to the company at any time. In response to the production and quality requirements put forward by customer merchandisers or company inspections at the factory, we must supervise and assist the processing factory to implement them in place, and report the company's implementation status in a timely manner. After the finished products enter the finishing workshop, the quality of the ironing and packaging of the actual operators must be checked at any time, and the packaged finished products must be inspected from time to time to ensure that problems are discovered and dealt with early. We will do our best to ensure the quality and delivery time of bulk goods. After the bulk goods are packed, the cutting details should be checked against the packing list to check whether each color and number match. If there is a problem, the cause must be identified and resolved accordingly in a timely manner. Summarize the coordination of each link in the production process, problems that arise, the ability to respond to problems, and the entire order operation, and report to the company's supervisor in writing. After processing, clean up and recover all remaining fabrics and accessories in detail. and returned to the warehouse.

(4) Layout and cutting process requirements

Inspect cloth → Layout → Check samples → Use materials → Cut → Write number → Bundle. Discharging is generally adopted, one-way, two-way, arbitrary, etc.

Cutting generally adopts the nesting method. Commonly used ones include flat sleeves, mutual sleeves, inlaid sleeves, spliced ??sleeves, slit sleeves, etc. Before cutting, you must first draw a layout diagram based on the template. "Complete, reasonable, and economical" are the basic principles of layout. The main process requirements in the cutting process are as follows: (1) Look at the correct sample, check the number of pieces corresponding to the sample, and see if there are any errors such as missing pieces, smooth pieces, silk strands, etc. Make corrections to the plate-making technician in a timely manner. Match the bulk goods according to their quantity and arrange the bulk goods. After arranging, calculate the unit consumption based on the total number of bulk goods. In addition, the loss will be reported to the merchandiser for confirmation. When arranging samples, we should also sort out the unit consumption of various fabrics based on the fabrics supplied by the customers, and report them. (2) After each batch of large-scale fabrics arrives, they must be made into hundreds of pieces according to the condition of the fabrics (divided into pieces), with a shrinkage rate (50*50 squares). Shrinkage includes natural shrinkage and washing shrinkage.

Natural shrinkage refers to the natural shrinkage of fabrics after being ironed or relaxed during mass production. The correct shrinkage method for testing fabrics must be the same as the washing type for mass-produced garments. If the garments are not washed, the fabric will Just use a steamer to inflate and measure. Washing shrinkage refers to the shrinkage of garments after washing. The quality of fabrics generally includes cloth sealing, color, and feel (texture); color difference, edge difference, step difference, door width discrepancy, and excessive shrinkage can require the fabric to be returned. . (3) Different batches of dyed or sand-washed fabrics should be cut in batches to prevent color difference on the same piece of clothing. If there is color difference in a piece of fabric, color difference and positioning should be carried out. When discharging, pay attention to whether the silk strands of the fabric are straight and the direction of the strands of the garment meets the process requirements. For pile fabrics (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.), do not lay the material in reverse direction. According to the customer's requirements, one-way or one-way The parts should be oriented in one direction, otherwise there will be staggered hair, backlighting, etc. Otherwise it will affect the color of the clothing.

(4) Make sure the fabric is in the right direction when pulling the material. The mop should be smooth and of moderate tightness. The number of samples should be checked and defects should be avoided. Measure the width, separate cylinders, and mop pieces. For striped fabrics, pay attention to the alignment and positioning of the strips in each layer when dragging the material to ensure the continuity and symmetry of the strips on the garment. Pay special attention to the highly stretchable fabrics such as knitted fabrics, polar fleece, pleated fabrics, etc. The fabrics should be placed in advance and naturally retract for 24 hours before cutting to prevent the pieces from being too small after cutting.

(5) Cutting requires accurate cutting and straight and smooth lines. The paving pattern should not be too thick, and the upper and lower layers of fabric should not be uneven. The error between the cut pieces of the same specification and the sample should not exceed 0.2cm, and the cutting depth should not exceed 0.6cm. Do not use different pieces of the same size.

(6) Write the number according to the sample alignment. The card number should be 0.6cm from the edge (including the number) and the font size should be clear. The number must be clear when changing the number. Each piece must be written with a number.

(7) When using tapered hole markings, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of the garment. After cutting, the quantity must be counted and the pieces inspected, and the garments must be bundled into piles according to the specifications of the garments, and a ticket must be attached to indicate the style number, part, specification, etc. (8) Every time an order is cut, the ends and ends of the fabric should be reserved for future use in the workshop. (9) Keep mop records and check unit consumption.

(5) Sewing 1. Seams: Because the fabric has longitudinal and transverse extensibility (i.e. elasticity) and the disadvantage that edge coils are easy to come apart, the seams for sewing knitted fashion clothing should meet the following requirements:

(1) Seam The traces should have stretchability and strength suitable for knitted fabrics.

(2) The stitching should be able to prevent the fabric loops from coming apart.

(3) Properly control the density of stitches. For example, the stitch density of lockstitch machine for thick fabrics is controlled at 9-10 stitches/2cm, the stitch density of overlock machine is 6-7 stitches/2cm, and the stitch density of lockstitch machine for thin fabrics is controlled at 10-11 stitches/2cm. 2cm, the stitch density of the overlock sewing machine is 7~8 stitches/2cm. Determined according to customer requirements.

2. Sutures and sutures must meet the following quality requirements:

(1) Pure cotton thread (suture) for sewing machines should be combed cotton thread, which has high strength and uniformity.

(2) The suture should have a certain degree of elasticity to prevent thread breakage due to twisting or squeezing of the thread during the sewing process.

(3) The suture must be flexible.

(4) The sutures must be even and smooth to reduce obstruction or friction of the sutures in the grooves and pinholes, and avoid defects such as thread breakage and uneven stitch tension. Determine the wire number and color according to customer requirements.

3. Sewing needle: Sewing machine needle is also called sewing needle and machine needle. In order to achieve the ideal combination of sewing needle, sewing material and suture, the appropriate sewing needle must be selected.

Sewing is the central process of clothing processing. Clothing sewing can be divided into machine sewing and manual sewing according to style and craft style. Implement flow operations during the sewing process.

Viscose interlining is widely used in clothing processing, generally including woven interlining and non-woven interlining. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make the clothing quality uniform, prevent deformation and wrinkles, and improve the shape of the clothing. Play a certain role. Most of its types are based on non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. The use of fusible linings must be selected according to the fabric and part of the clothing, and the time, temperature, and pressure of gluing must be accurately grasped, so as to achieve better results. .

Technical operating procedures for bonding work: 1. The garment pieces must be bonded and lined in strict accordance with the process requirements. The wrong lining must not be bonded, and it is strictly forbidden to bond too little or too much. 2. Strictly follow the process requirements and adjust the temperature and pressure of the lining machine to avoid sticking, uneven bonding, and weak bonding. 3. When bonding the interlining, pay attention to the front and back of the fabric and the interlining. It is strictly forbidden to stick the interlining on the front of the fabric or if there is a problem with the bonding machine, report it in time

During garment processing, the stitching must follow a certain pattern. They are connected in series and arranged on the garment pieces to form strong and beautiful stitches. Stitches can be basically summarized into the following four types:

1. Chain stitch Chain stitch is made up of one or two sutures connected in series. A single suture is called a single chain stitch. The advantage is that less thread is used per unit length, but the disadvantage is that the edge lock will come apart when the chain line breaks. The double-thread stitch is called double-thread chain stitch, which is made up of a needle thread and a hook thread strung together. Its elasticity and strength are better than that of the lock stitch, and it is not easy to fall apart. Single-thread chain stitch is often used for top hem stitching, trousers cuff stitching, and lapels on suit tops, etc. Double-thread chain stitch is often used for seams, darts, back seams and side seams of pants, elastic bands and other parts that are subject to more stretching and stronger stress.

2. Lock stitch, also known as shuttle stitch, consists of two sutures cross-connected in the sewing material. Both ends of the sewing material have the same shape. It has poor stretchability and elasticity, but the upper and lower stitches are tighter. The linear lockstitch is the most common suture stitch. Because it uses less thread and has poor stretchability, it is often used to sew two pieces of sewing material. Such as hemming, darting, bagging, etc.

3. Overlock stitches are stitches that consist of several stitches that circulate around each other and are set on the edge of the sewing material. It is named according to the number of stitches that make up the stitch (single-thread overlock, double-thread overlock...six-thread overlock). Its characteristic is that it can wrap the edges of the sewing material and prevent the edges of the fabric from falling apart. When the stitches are stretched, the upper thread and the bottom thread can transfer to each other to a certain extent, so the stitches have better elasticity, so they are widely used for hemming of woven fabrics. Three-thread overlock and four-thread overlock are the most commonly used hems for woven garments. Five-thread overlock and six-thread overlock are also called "composite stitches", which are composed of a double-thread overlock and a three-thread or four-thread overlock stitch. Its biggest feature is that it is powerful and can perform seaming and overlocking at the same time, thereby improving the density of stitches and sewing production efficiency.

The sewing of clothing as a whole needs to be neat and beautiful, and there should be no asymmetry, distortion, missing seams, wrong seams, etc. When sewing striped fabrics, attention should be paid to the smooth connection of the splicing patterns. The strips should be symmetrical, the stitching should be even and straight, and the arcs should be round and smooth; the tangents on the surface of the garment should be flat without wrinkles or small folds; the seams should be in good condition Good quality, no broken wires, floating wires, pulled wires, etc.; no wiring is allowed in important parts such as the collar tip.

(6) Buttonhole buttons

Buttonholes and buttons in clothing are usually machine-processed. According to their shape, buttonholes are divided into two types: flat and eye-shaped holes. , commonly known as sleeping holes and pigeon eye holes.

1. Sleeping holes are commonly used in thin clothing products such as shirts, skirts, and trousers. 2. Pigeon eye holes are mostly used on outerwear made of thick fabrics such as tops and suits. The following points should be noted when making buttonholes: (1) Whether the buttonhole position is correct. (2) Whether the buttonhole size matches the button size and thickness. (3) Whether the buttonhole opening is cut properly. (4) For stretchable (elastic) or very thin fabrics, consider adding fabric reinforcement to the inner layer when using keyhole holes. The sewing of buttons should correspond to the position of buttonholes, otherwise the garment will be distorted and skewed due to inaccurate button positions. When fastening buttons, you should also pay attention to whether the amount and strength of the fastening thread are sufficient to prevent the buttons from falling off, and avoid undesirable phenomena such as blooming, crooking, rotation, or holes in the core posts. Whether the number of threads for fastening buttons on garments made of thick fabrics with punching holes is sufficient.

(7) Ironing and Ironing People often use "three-point sewing and seven-minute ironing" to emphasize that ironing is an important process in garment processing. Be sure to confirm the ironing method and iron it strictly according to the customer's requirements. Make sure the ironing station is clean and hygienic. When folding and ironing, the process requirements must be strictly followed to ensure uniformity. To ensure that clothing products are not contaminated, we must strictly implement the "three noes and one no" regulations, that is, no splashes, no shine, no burrs, and no burning. The equipment must be maintained regularly in accordance with regulations to ensure that the appearance of the equipment is clean. If a machine or equipment failure occurs, the equipment maintenance personnel must be notified in time, and the machine must not be dismantled without authorization. When using a steam iron, be careful not to use any steam.

When the operator leaves the machine, be sure to shut it down at any time. During the operation, the pieces of clothing that have been fastened and assembled must be stacked neatly and not thrown around. Ironing tools should be placed on the stand and should not be placed directly on the chopping board with clothing pieces to avoid burning the chopping board. When the operator leaves the ironing table, he or she must unplug the power plug in time. The main functions of ironing are threefold:

(1) Remove wrinkles from fabrics through spraying and ironing, and smooth creases.

(2) After heat-setting treatment, the appearance of the garment is smooth and the pleats and lines are straight.

(3) Use the "return" and "pull out" ironing techniques to appropriately change the tension and contraction of the fibers and the density and direction of the fabric's warp and weft tissue, and shape the three-dimensional shape of the garment to adapt to the human body's body shape and activity status. requirements, so that the clothing can achieve the purpose of beautiful appearance and comfortable wearing.

The four basic factors that affect fabric ironing are: temperature, humidity, pressure and time. Among them, ironing temperature is the main factor affecting the ironing effect. Mastering the ironing temperature of various fabrics is a key issue in finishing garments. If the ironing temperature is too low, the ironing effect will not be achieved; if the ironing temperature is too high, the clothes will be damaged and cause losses.

The ironing temperature of various fibers is also affected by various factors such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, presence or absence of padding, thickness of padding and moisture content

The following phenomena should be avoided during ironing:

(1) Auroral and scorching phenomena on the surface of the garment are caused by excessive ironing temperature for too long.

(2) Ironing defects such as small ripples and wrinkles are left on the surface of the garment.

(3) There are leaky ironing areas.

(8) Garment inspection Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory, including two major items: appearance quality and intrinsic quality. The appearance inspection content includes dimensional tolerance, appearance defects, seam fastness, etc. Internal testing items include fabric unit area weight, color fastness, shrinkage, etc.

The inspection of clothing should run through the entire processing process such as cutting, sewing, buttonhole fastening, and ironing. The finished product should also be comprehensively inspected before packaging and storage to ensure product quality.

The main contents of finished product inspection are:

(1) Whether the style is the same as the confirmation.

(2) Whether the size specifications meet the requirements of the craft sheet and sample garments.

(3) Whether the stitching is correct and whether the sewing is regular and smooth.

(4) For garments made of striped fabric, check whether the stripes and stripes are aligned correctly.

(5) Whether the fabric threads are correct, whether there are any defects or oil stains on the fabric.

(6) Whether there is color difference problem in the same piece of clothing.

(7) Whether the ironing is in good condition.

(8) Whether the adhesive lining is firm and whether there is glue leakage.

(9) Whether the thread ends have been repaired.

(10) Whether the clothing accessories are complete.

(11) Whether the size mark, wash mark, trademark, etc. on the clothing are consistent with the actual content of the goods, and whether the position is correct.

(12) Whether the overall shape of the clothing is good.

(13) Whether the packaging meets the requirements.

(9) Shipping or warehousing

The packaging of clothing can be divided into two types: hanging packaging and box packaging. Box packaging generally has inner packaging and outer packaging.

Inner packaging refers to one or several pieces of clothing put into a plastic bag. The style number and size of the clothing should be consistent with those marked on the plastic bag, and the packaging must be smooth and beautiful. Some special styles of clothing require special processing when packaging. For example, twisted clothing must be packaged in twisted rolls to maintain its style.

The outer packaging is generally packed in cartons, and the size and color are matched according to customer requirements or process order instructions. There are generally four packaging forms: mixed color mixed code, single color single code, single color mixed code, mixed color single code. When packing, attention should be paid to complete quantities and accurate color and size matching. A box mark should be painted on the outer box to indicate the customer, port of shipment, box number, quantity, place of origin, etc. The content should be consistent with the actual goods.