Basic knowledge of woven clothing processing
The use of woven fabrics in clothing is in a leading position both in terms of variety and production quantity. Here is a summary of some woven clothing processing Let’s learn about the basic knowledge together!
(1) Woven garment production process
Surface accessories enter the factory Inspection → technical preparation → cutting → sewing → keyhole buttoning → ironing → garment inspection → packaging → warehousing or shipping.
After the fabrics enter the factory, they must be quantitatively counted and inspected for appearance and internal quality. Only those fabrics that meet production requirements can be put into production. Before mass production, technical preparations must first be carried out, including the formulation of process sheets, samples and sample garment production. Only after the sample garments are confirmed by the customer can the next production process be entered. Fabrics are cut and sewn into semi-finished products. After some woven fabrics are made into semi-finished products, they must be processed according to special process requirements, such as garment washing, garment sand washing, twisting effect processing, etc., and finally buttonhole fastening. The auxiliary process and ironing process will be packaged and stored after passing the inspection.
(2) The purpose and requirements of fabric inspection
Controlling the quality of fabrics is an important part of controlling the quality of finished products. Through the inspection and measurement of fabrics entering the factory, the authenticity rate of clothing can be effectively improved.
Fabric inspection includes two major aspects: appearance quality and intrinsic quality. In terms of appearance, the fabric is mainly inspected for damage, stains, weaving defects, color differences, etc. For fabrics that have been sand-washed, attention should also be paid to whether there are sand-washing defects such as sand channels, dead pleats, and cracks. Defects that affect the appearance must be noted with markers during inspection and avoided during cutting.
The intrinsic quality of fabrics mainly includes shrinkage, color fastness and weight (mm, ounces). When conducting inspection sampling, representative samples of different varieties and colors produced by different manufacturers should be cut for testing to ensure the accuracy of the data.
At the same time, the auxiliary materials entering the factory must also be inspected, such as elastic band shrinkage, adhesive lining fastness, zipper smoothness, etc. Accessories that do not meet the requirements will not be put into production.
(3) Main contents of technical preparation
Before mass production, technical personnel must first make technical preparations before mass production. Technical preparation includes three contents: craft sheet, sample formulation and sample garment production. Technical preparation is an important means to ensure that mass production proceeds smoothly and the final product meets customer requirements.
The process sheet is a guiding document in garment processing. It puts forward detailed requirements for the specifications, sewing, ironing, packaging, etc. of the garment, as well as details such as the matching of garment accessories and seam density. Also make it clear. Each process in garment processing should be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the process sheet.
Sample production requires accurate dimensions and complete specifications. The contours of relevant parts match accurately. The clothing model number, location, specification, silk weave direction and quality requirements should be marked on the sample, and a sample composite seal should be stamped on the relevant splicing points.
After completing the formulation of process sheets and samples, small batches of sample garments can be produced, inconsistencies can be corrected in a timely manner according to customer and process requirements, and process difficulties can be tackled so that large-volume assembly operations can go smoothly. conduct. After the sample is confirmed and signed by the customer, it becomes one of the important inspection basis.
(4) Cutting process requirements
Before cutting, a layout diagram must be drawn based on the template. "Complete, reasonable, and economical" are the basic principles of layout. The main process requirements in the cutting process are as follows:
(1) Count the quantity when hauling materials, and be careful to avoid defects.
(2) Different batches of dyed or sand-washed fabrics should be cut in batches to prevent color difference on the same piece of clothing. If there is color difference in a piece of fabric, color difference layout should be carried out.
(3) When arranging materials, pay attention to whether the silk strands of the fabric are straight and the direction of the strands of the garment parts meets the process requirements. For pile fabrics (such as velvet, velvet, corduroy, etc.), do not arrange them upside down. material, otherwise it will affect the color of the clothing.
(4) For fabrics with striped patterns, pay attention to the alignment and positioning of the strips in each layer when dragging the material to ensure the continuity and symmetry of the strips on the garment.
(5) Cutting requires accurate cutting and straight and smooth lines. The paving pattern should not be too thick, and the upper and lower layers of fabric should not be uneven.
(6) Cut the knife edge according to the template alignment mark.
(7) When using tapered hole markings, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of the garment. After cutting, the quantity must be counted and the pieces inspected, and the garments must be bundled into piles according to the specifications of the garments, and a ticket must be attached to indicate the style number, part, specification, etc.
(5) Sewing
Sewing is the central process of clothing processing. Clothing sewing can be divided into machine sewing and manual sewing according to the style and craft style. . Implement flow operations during the sewing process.
Fusible interlining is widely used in clothing processing. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make clothing quality uniform, prevent deformation and wrinkles, and play a certain role in clothing styling. Most of its types are based on non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. The use of fusible linings must be selected according to the fabric and part of the clothing, and the time, temperature, and pressure of gluing must be accurately grasped, so as to achieve better results. .
(6) Buttonhole buttons
The buttonholes and buttons in clothing are usually machine-processed. The buttonholes are divided into two types: flat and eye-shaped holes according to their shapes. , commonly known as sleeping holes and pigeon eye holes.
Sleeping holes: Commonly used in thin clothing products such as shirts, skirts, and trousers.
Pigeon eye holes: Mostly used on outerwear made of thick fabrics such as tops and suits.
The following points should be noted when making buttonholes:
(1) Whether the buttonhole position is correct.
(2) Whether the buttonhole size matches the button size and thickness.
(3) Whether the buttonhole opening is cut properly.
(4) For stretchable (elastic) or very thin fabrics, consider adding fabric reinforcement to the inner layer when using keyhole holes. The sewing of buttons should correspond to the position of buttonholes, otherwise the garment will be distorted and skewed due to inaccurate button positions. When fastening buttons, you should also pay attention to whether the amount and strength of the fastening thread are sufficient to prevent the buttons from falling off, and whether the number of fastening threads on thick fabric clothing is sufficient.
(7) Ironing
People often use "three-point sewing and seven-minute ironing" to emphasize that ironing is an important process in clothing processing.
The main functions of ironing are threefold:
(1) Remove wrinkles from fabrics and flatten creases through spraying and ironing.
(2) After heat setting treatment, the garment will have a smooth appearance and straight pleats and lines.
(3) Use the "return" and "pull out" ironing techniques to appropriately change the tension and contraction of the fiber and the density and direction of the fabric's warp and weft tissue, and shape the three-dimensional shape of the garment to adapt to the human body's body shape and activity status. requirements, so that the clothing can achieve the purpose of beautiful appearance and comfortable wearing.
The four basic factors that affect fabric ironing are: temperature, humidity, pressure and time. Among them, ironing temperature is the main factor affecting the ironing effect. Mastering the ironing temperature of various fabrics is a key issue in finishing garments. If the ironing temperature is too low, the ironing effect will not be achieved; if the ironing temperature is too high, the clothes will be damaged and cause losses.
The ironing temperature of various fibers is also affected by various factors such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, presence or absence of padding, thickness of padding and moisture.
The following phenomena should be avoided during ironing:
(1) Auroral and scorch phenomena on the surface of the garment are caused by excessive ironing temperature and prolonged ironing.
(2) Ironing defects such as small ripples and wrinkles are left on the surface of the garment.
(3) There is a leaky perm area.
(8) Garment inspection
Garment inspection should run through the entire processing process such as cutting, sewing, buttonhole buttoning, and ironing. The finished product should also be comprehensively inspected before packaging and storage to ensure product quality.
The main contents of finished product inspection are:
(1) Whether the style is the same as the confirmation sample.
(2) Whether the size specifications meet the requirements of the craft sheet and sample garments.
(3) Whether the stitching is correct and whether the sewing is regular and smooth.
(4) For clothing made of striped fabric, check whether the stripes and stripes are aligned correctly.
(5) Whether the fabric threads are correct, whether there are any defects or oil stains on the fabric.
(6) Whether there is color difference problem in the same piece of clothing.
(7) Whether the ironing is in good condition.
(8) Whether the adhesive lining is firm and whether there is glue leakage.
(9) Whether the thread ends have been repaired.
(10) Whether the clothing accessories are complete.
(11) Whether the size mark, wash mark, trademark, etc. on the clothing are consistent with the actual content of the goods, and whether the position is correct.
(12) Whether the overall shape of the clothing is good.
(13) Whether the packaging meets the requirements.
(9) Packaging and storage
Clothing packaging can be divided into two types: hanging packaging and box packaging. Box packaging generally has inner packaging and outer packaging.
Inner packaging refers to one or several pieces of clothing placed in a plastic bag. The style number and size of the clothing should be consistent with those marked on the plastic bag, and the packaging must be smooth and beautiful. Some special styles of clothing require special processing when packaging. For example, twisted clothing must be packaged in twisted rolls to maintain its style.
Packaging is generally in cartons, and the size and color are matched according to customer requirements or process order instructions. There are generally four packaging forms: mixed color mixed code, single color single code, single color mixed code, mixed color single code. When packing, attention should be paid to complete quantities and accurate color and size matching. A box mark should be painted on the outer box to indicate the customer, port of shipment, box number, quantity, place of origin, etc. The content should be consistent with the actual goods. ;