1) 烃[mì]?[lí]

烃? is also called 烃罗, 烃磃, 烃狠, etc., originating from a kind of large turban introduced in the Northern Dynasties.

The gauze was a must-have for women when going out from the Sui Dynasty to the early Tang Dynasty. It was used to cover the head and the whole body with gauze to prevent dust and avoid the prying eyes of passers-by.

Imperial concubines, noble ladies or wealthy families can decorate the embroidery with pearls and jade. The "Biography of King Jun of Qin" in Volume 45 of "Book of Sui" records that during the reign of Emperor Wen of the Sui Dynasty, King Jun of Qin was good at craftsmanship and once made Qibaoxiang with his own hands for his concubine. The so-called "Qibao" refers to the jewelry of gold, jade, pearls and emeralds.

2) Curtain cap

Curtain cap, also known as mat hat or drapery hat, is a kind of hat with high top and wide brim. A layer of black gauze hangs around the hat. The apron made of silk droops down to the neck, covering the head, and plays a role in preventing sand and prying eyes.

This hat style also comes from the Western Regions. Because Wang Zhaojun wore a curtain hat when he went out of the fortress, it was also called "Zhaojun hat".

The "curtain hats" worn by women during the Yonghui period of the Tang Dynasty are similar to the hats worn by Hui'an women in modern southern Fujian.

3) Hunduo hat

Hunduo hat is a kind of Hu hat, which was the most famous in the Sui and Tang Dynasties.

The so-called Hundao hat originally refers to the popular hats made of animal skins among the people in the northwest, also known as fan hats. Later, they were developed into hats made of felt or brocade.

The characteristics of the hat are that the top of the hat is arc-shaped, the top is high and pointed, there are small ear protection fans on both sides, and the fur trim can be turned up and down.

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women paid attention to facial makeup and regarded facial makeup as an important etiquette.

"The golden clouds on her face are fine, and the emerald green between her eyebrows is deep." The woman is dazzling, luxurious, graceful and magnificent, expressing her personality and blooming vitality.

1) Wenmei

There were many names for women in the Tang Dynasty to have black eyebrows. In the early Tang Dynasty, "thin eyebrows" were the main ones, in the middle Tang Dynasty, "broad eyebrows" were the main ones, and in the late Tang Dynasty, women had black eyebrows. The eyebrow makeup is slim, and a variety of eyebrow makeup coexists.

During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, women often shaved off their original eyebrows, and then used a black and blue pigment made of burnt wicker or ore to paint various shapes, called black eyebrows.

In addition to black eyebrows, there are also green eyebrows, yellow eyebrows, etc.

From the perspective of eyebrow thrush methods, there are "sweeping ink" and "smoking ink".

Du Fu has a poem that says: "But I dislike the makeup and the powder stains the color, so I lightly sweep my eyebrows towards the Supreme." Eyebrows), hills (also known as distant mountain eyebrows), three peaks, hanging beads, moon edges, split tips, Hanyan, Fuyun, daun, five mountains, and were assigned to different concubines for use.

2) Makeup

During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, there were many kinds of makeup for women, such as: flower makeup, wine halo makeup, Shouyang makeup, moth eyebrow makeup, cry makeup, Feixia makeup, etc.

Facial decorations can be painted on or pasted on the face.

The order of makeup is: one application of lead powder, two applications of rouge, three applications of goose yellow, four eyebrows, five points of rouge, six facial tattoos, and seven decals.

(1) Huadian makeup

Huadian makeup refers to dyeing and painting patterns on the eyebrows, cheeks, temples, etc. or using gold, silver, jade, etc. Use the made "flower mother-of-pearl" to apply makeup.

The legend of Huadian comes from early women who had scars or freckles on their cheeks. They used colors such as blue and cinnabar to make dots, moon shapes, flower shapes and other patterns. The dimples outside the corners of the lips are also covered with red dots and other patterns as a cover for the cheeks.

(2) Oblique red makeup

Oblique red makeup is also called wine halo makeup and rouge makeup.

Rouge is commonly known as "red and blue flower". Use it to make a paste or powder. When applying makeup, first apply white powder, then mix the rouge in the palm of your hand and apply it on the cheeks, like a ray of setting sun.

It is recorded in "The Makeup Table": "To apply makeup on a beautiful woman's face, apply powder, then rouge, mix well in the palm of your hand, and apply it on both cheeks. The thicker one is called 'wine halo makeup', and the lighter one is 'peach blossom makeup' '."

Slanting red is usually applied between the temples and the cheeks, and may look like a scar, a rolled leaf, or a crescent moon.

(3) Moth eyebrow makeup

Refers to the curved and long eyebrows like the tentacles of silk moths.

Li Bai's "Resentment": "The beauty is rolling up the bead curtain, sitting deeply with her furrowed eyebrows, but when she sees wet tears, she doesn't know who she hates."

From the Sui Dynasty to the early Tang Dynasty, eyebrow makeup Most of them regard detail as beauty.

(4) Shouyang makeup

Also known as "plum blossom makeup".

Legend has it that during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, one day, Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Emperor Wu of the Song Dynasty, was lying under the eaves of the palace. A plum blossom fell on her forehead, dyeing it with color. She could not brush it away. After three days of washing, it was Luo, the palace ladies saw the strangeness and rushed to imitate it.

Women in the Tang Dynasty followed suit by drawing plum shapes on their foreheads as decorations, and produced a unique form of facial makeup in the Tang Dynasty.

(5) Weeping makeup

Weeping makeup is named because it “looks like a mournful person”. It was popular in the Yuanhe period of the Tang Dynasty, mainly in Chang’an, Luoyang and other places. From the northwest ethnic minorities.

The characteristic is that no red powder is applied to the cheeks, only black paste is applied to the lips, and the eyebrows are painted in a "eight-shaped" shape, which is bizarre and sad.

3) Huadian

Huadian is a kind of floral decoration on women’s faces in ancient times. It originated in the Southern Song Dynasty. It is made of gold foil and silver sheets into different flower shapes and is attached to the forehead. , cheeks, corners of mouth, temples.

In addition to various flower shapes, the shapes of flower buds also include birds, fish and other shapes, and are made into round, pointed, flower-shaped and various symmetrical shapes.

Hua Dian is the most characteristic facial makeup of the Tang Dynasty.

During the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, the clothing styles were elegant and luxurious, and the clothing materials were gorgeous. The fabrics were mainly silk and linen, with bright and warm colors such as red, purple, and yellow as the main colors.

Rich women often use exquisite silk fabrics to make their clothes, which are soft and delicate.

The patterns are mainly composed of beads and birds and animals, including peacocks, birds, lions, sheep, ducks, chickens, deer patterns, dragon patterns and other patterns that symbolize good luck and good luck. New patterns such as Tuanhua, Baoxianghua, Knight, Huwang, Guizi, Jizi and Wangzi appeared.

In the Tang Dynasty, hollow paper patterns had been used, which played a great role in improving the printing and dyeing quality of fabrics.

In the Tang Dynasty, it was also popular to use gold and silver to embroider and draw flowers on silk.

Embroidery includes lock embroidery, flat stitch embroidery, etc.