Selecting materials-sticking cloth-cutting-cutting shoulder straps-making shoulder straps-middle bowl combination-middle bowl cover line-sponge combination-inner and outer bowl combination-upper ridge center-lace and upper ridge center combination-upper ridge center and bowl combination-fixing lace and bowl part-center seam-center seam cover line-ridge center combination-lower ridge center and bowl combination-upper edge wrapping-ridge center and bowl and ridge center combination-left and right.
Detailed process:
1, material selection. Because underwear is in direct contact with the skin, the selection of materials must be very particular, usually from the presence of harmful components, hygroscopicity, antistatic property, skin touch, dye perspiration fastness and washing fastness (color fastness), fabric elasticity, strength and other aspects to consider. Because natural fiber is superior to chemical fiber in hygroscopicity, skin touch and antistatic property, and knitted fabric is superior to woven fabric in elasticity, knitted fabric of natural fiber is mostly used for underwear lining. In order to increase the elasticity of fabrics, high elastic fabrics lined with spandex are usually used.
Harmful components mainly refer to the harmful chemicals left in the dyeing process of cloth, which are easily absorbed by the skin during wearing; Hygroscopicity mainly refers to whether the human body can effectively absorb after sweating, and it is easy to cause bacterial infection if it is in a state of poor hygroscopicity for a long time; Poor antistatic performance and poor touch to the body and skin will make you feel uncomfortable during wearing; The fastness to perspiration and washing of dyes is not good, which is easy to cause dye molecules to fall off or even be absorbed by the skin during wearing, leading to diseases; The elasticity and strength of cloth affect its comfort and durability.
2, sticky cloth. Sticking cloth means sticking cloth and sponge together with adhesive. The surface of the pasted cloth must be smooth, and adhesives and solvents harmful to human body, such as adhesives containing formaldehyde and acetone, cannot be used in the pasting process. Otherwise, if these ingredients remain in the cloth, it will affect human health.
3, it is cutting. Generally, typesetting is first followed by cutting. Pay attention to the grain of the fabric when typesetting, and arrange it reasonably according to its performance. If the grain direction of the left and right pieces is different, the elasticity of the left and right back pieces of the finished product will be different, and the tightness of both sides will be different when wearing; In the process of sewing, there will also be different sizes, which will affect the appearance.
Generally, a long shoulder strap is cut to a certain length as required, then the shoulder strap buckle is put on and sewn with a single needle zigzag sewing machine. Or sewing with a binding machine; In the use of the invisible shoulder strap, we must ensure that it has considerable elasticity and sufficient strength to prevent it from breaking and falling off. At the same time, pay attention to the selection of appropriate needles in the sewing process to prevent the glue line from sticking out.
4. In the middle bowl combination, two pieces of outer bowl cloth are fixed by a single needle sewing flat car according to the radian, generally 0.5cm, and sewn into a string. For the middle bowl cover line, a series of sewn pieces of cloth are pulled out by special presser feet on both sides, and then fixed by double needle lock sewing machine. This process requires that the tension between the top thread and the bottom thread of the double needle is moderate, which cannot affect the appearance.
5. Sponge combination: sew sponge pieces with a single-needle four-point zigzag sewing machine, and fix both sides of the sponge with cloth strips. Sponge sheets must be closely combined, and the operator should sew along the radian of sponge sheets when sewing. And the tension between the top line and the bottom line should be consistent and the tightness should be moderate. Otherwise, the stereoscopic effect of the sewn sponge bowl is poor.
6. The inner and outer bowls are combined into one, and the sponge inner bowl and the cloth outer bowl are fixed by a single needle sewing machine. The stitches of the inner and outer bowls must be aligned, otherwise the bowls will be deformed and affect the appearance. On the spine, that is, fold the spine in half and copy the edges with a three-line sewing machine. Lace is combined with the upper spine, and the spine and lace are fixed by a single-needle herringbone sewing machine. The straight edge of the lace must be aligned at the sewing bowl, and the spine is only fixed on the lace, and it should be sewn along the arc as close as possible to the edge of the lace.
7. Combine the upper spine with the bowl, and combine the lace with the bowl cloth with a single needle sewing machine. Don't sew lace. Overlap the bowl part on the spine by 0.5cm, and sew it in the center of the overlapping seam, with the head and tail flush and the seam flat without wrinkling.
8. Fix the lace and the bowl cloth and sew them outside. The lace belt should be wrapped tightly inside and outside, and there should be no wrinkles in sewing.
9. Center sewing. The spine of the cloth is fixed with a single-needle sewing machine, sewing 0.4cm, and the top and bottom need to be aligned.
10. sew the cover thread in the middle, pull out and align the sewn last piece of cloth with a double needle lock machine and a special presser foot, and add cloth strips on it.
1 1. The spine center is merged, and the inner and outer pieces in the spine center are fixed with a single needle flat sewing machine, without wrinkling, and the seam is 0.4cm.
12, the lower spine is combined with the bowl, the spine cloth and the bowl cloth are fixed with a double-needle sewing machine, and cloth strips are added below. Fold the spine cloth by 0.6cm, fold the cloth strip at the middle corner, align it, and sew it to the bowl with double needles.
13. Wrap the upper swing, fold the shoulder strap head according to the mark, use a double-needle sewing machine, and wrap it tightly with cloth strips. The head of the shoulder strap should be sewn to 1cm. When sewing, check the sewn upper swing by hand and don't break the thread. Otherwise, the suture may break during taking, for example, when the user violently exercises or sneezes.
14. The center of spine is combined with the center of bowl and spine, and 0.6cm is sewn with a single needle sewing machine, and the top and bottom should be aligned.
15. Sew the left and right cover lines outward, leaving a margin of 0. 1cm. Double-needle sewing machine, reverse folding and reverse sewing, and cloth strips for reinforcement and decoration. If necessary, a film can be added to increase its wearing function.
16. Add elastic band to the hem. The first row overlaps 0.6cm, and the second row is sewn on the side. During sewing, grasp the length of 10cm with both hands. Push the bra to the limit and don't break it, otherwise it will affect the wearing.
17. Sew the shoulder strap head, thread the buckle, fold the shoulder strap head and fix it with a single needle zigzag sewing machine. Back belt, tight belt side seam, the needle can not be sewn to the back, the upper end of the needle is reversed, adjust according to the width of the hook.
18, hooks, two rows of hooks on the right, insert the trademark in the middle, the inside is 0. 1cm, the outside is slightly wrapped, and the back piece should be inserted as far as possible, but it should not stand out, so as not to affect the appearance. Adopt a single needle zigzag sewing machine, sew in series before cutting, check each hook, and be careful not to break the needle.
19, small hook, two rows of hooks on the left, with the inner side close to the edge and the outer side slightly wrapped with the back piece. As far as possible, the back piece is stuffed into the small hook, and the sewing machine twists and turns with a single needle, and then cuts it after sewing in series.
20, the size of the hook lock edge, with a single needle zigzag sewing machine, first sewn into a string and then cut. Sewing stitch should be smooth, and the joint of top thread and bottom thread should be in the center of the edge. Nail the flower card, and nail it in the specified position as required. Check the packaging as needed.