If you ask a Quzhou citizen what is the famous food that best represents Quzhou, many people will tell you that it is "three heads and one palm" (rabbit head, duck head, fish head and duck's paw). In Quzhou, "three heads and one palm" is an indispensable delicacy, whether it is a high-class hotel or a street stall. At the Zhejiang Agricultural Fair not long ago, Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" all sold very well. It can be said-
local snacks's "flag"
The leftovers that ordinary people bought to satisfy their cravings have now become a "flag" in local snacks, our province.
Every afternoon at 1: 3, Lv Shuixiang's small restaurant on Rende Road will be a little empty. At this time, what she has to do is to marinate the rabbit head, duck head and duck's paw that will be used at night and the next day. "It takes about 3 hours to marinate. These things are found in almost every hotel, and many guests come to' three heads and one palm'. " On the afternoon of December 14th, she told reporters while watching the marinating of duck head in stainless steel pot. As soon as the lid was opened, a strong pot-stewed aroma came to the nose. "Making duck heads and rabbit heads pays attention to ingredients, in which good accessories such as fennel, orange peel, pepper, cinnamon and yellow wine should be used, and the fish heads should be braised for a long time with' soup stock'. The practice of fish heads is a bit different, usually chopped pepper or braised." Lu Shuixiang said.
Lv Shuixiang's small restaurant is called Daoxiang Food Stall, which has a history of 1 years. "The evening is the busiest time. When there are many times, hundreds of duck heads will be sold a day." Lv Shuixiang said that some guests even drove from Shanghai. When the year is over, Quzhou people who work in other places and return to their hometowns often crowded small restaurants.
Although the weather is a little cold, Lu Shuixiang still marinates these special snacks as usual, waiting for the guests to arrive. The mist floating from the stainless steel pot bypassed the signboard at the door of the store and brought the fragrance to the street. "I have used the old soup for 1 years. Every time the soup is less, I add some yellow wine, but I have never changed the formula. As long as it can attract customers, I will not change this special taste. " Lu Shuixiang said.
There are more than 7, catering units in Quzhou. Walking on the streets of Qucheng, you will see scenes similar to Lv Shuixiang's shop in many small restaurants and food stalls. There is a stove in front of the door, and there is a big iron pot on it, with red peppers floating on the floating surface, thick soup stock in the pot, rabbit heads, duck heads, duck feet and so on, and waves of unique thick fragrance float on the street.
how did the little-known "three heads and one palm" come step by step and become famous everywhere? Its origin is actually not glamorous, but because people's lives were tight in those days.
since 195s, there has been a refrigeration factory in Shuangshuiqiao, Qucheng, which specializes in killing rabbits. Residents bought rabbit heads for 3 cents a catty and burned them. After eating rabbit heads, they dried the bones for 7 cents a catty and sold them. The money from selling bones went to buy rabbit heads to eat. As a result, the atmosphere of eating rabbit heads in Quzhou is flourishing. "'three heads and one palm' is a unique element and symbol in Quzhou. Quzhou people's habit of eating' three heads and one palm' was formed from then on. First there was the halogen rabbit head, and later there were halogen products of duck head and duck's paw. " Mao Xianlong, deputy general manager of Yizhizhi Food Co., Ltd. said.
With the improvement of people's living standards, in the 198s and 199s, the number of food stalls and small restaurants in the streets of Qucheng gradually increased, and the "leftovers" originally bought by residents to cook at home began to become the main brands of supper.
since the late 199s, "three heads and one palm" have blossomed everywhere in Quzhou, and it has really "caught fire". On summer nights, the popularity of food stalls in Qucheng is always stronger than that of hotels and restaurants. Order some side dishes, have some rabbit heads, and drink cold beer. Customers come to these places in order to enjoy the hearty feeling brought by "three heads and one palm".
With more and more people in Quzhou, the "three heads and one palm" in Quzhou has been taken outside to take root. Coupled with the pressure of modern urbanites' life, there is a trend of eating spicy food in the north and south of the Yangtze River, and "three heads and one palm" is also popular in large and small cities through this spicy wind. Especially in Shanghai, Hangzhou, Ningbo, Wenzhou and other places where there are many people in Quzhou, hotels with Quzhou signs abound. Walking in the streets of Hangzhou, if you don't pay attention, you will encounter a small restaurant opened by Quzhou people. The area is small, but because of the supply of "three heads and one palm", it is often crowded with customers who come here.
There is neither the nobility of local cuisine nor the fashion of western catering, but Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" has its own world. Nowadays, "Quzhou Rabbit Head" has been on an equal footing with famous products such as "Jinhua Ham" and "Jiaxing Wufangzhai Zongzi" and has been included in the "Top Ten Famous Snacks in Zhejiang".
"Ugly Duckling" turns around beautifully
On the basis of preserving the original flavor as much as possible, the catering institutions and production enterprises in our city have made innovative articles on "three heads and one palm".
once upon a time, "three heads and one palm" was just an ugly duckling on the dining table of ordinary people. With the development of catering industry, now "three heads and one palm" in Quzhou has not only made a new leap in internal quality, but also become more elegant. Snacks, which were originally difficult to be elegant, have not only become special dishes for guests, but also become gifts that people can get when they visit relatives and friends.
Oriental Hotel is a place frequented by many foreign guests who come to Quzhou. Mr. Zhang, the executive chef of the hotel, said: "In the Oriental Hotel,' three heads and one palm' is mainly ordered by customers from other places. In order to promote the special snacks in Quzhou, we combined the rabbit head, duck head and duck's paw in the' three heads and one palm' to become a special dish called' Nankong Special Braised Three Pins'. "
At the same time, some restaurants and food enterprises with vision and brand awareness began to make their own brands and develop packaging products.
Yizizhi, which was born in 1989, began to burn "three heads and one palm" in the 199s. Since 23, "three heads and one palm" vacuum packaging has been introduced, which is convenient for customers to carry. Since 28, "Yizizhi" has set up its own production base and started to produce "three heads and one palm" single product packaging, gift box packaging and other products. "Now, the output of' three heads and one palm' is about 15 tons per month, which is several times higher than that at the beginning. In addition to being sold all over the country, the products have also gone abroad and entered the markets of Japan, South Korea and Singapore." Mao Xianlong said that at present, the scale of the company is still expanding, from a single "three heads and one palm" product to a variety of halogen products. At this year's Zhejiang Agricultural Expo, Quzhou Yizhizhi Food Co., Ltd. held a special meeting for merchants the day before the opening, and its sales in two hours reached more than 3, yuan. Just replenishing the goods several times, which shows the popularity of Quzhou's "three heads and one palm".
Zhang Guoliang, which started from a food stall in Xinqiao Street, now has not only restaurants, but also packaging products that can enter supermarkets. "Last year, we registered a trademark and started to produce first-class foods such as rabbit heads and ducks. Now the products are sold in local supermarkets in Jinhua and Quzhou." Zhang Guoliang said.
The company, which used to focus on chicken products, has solved the problem that fish heads are difficult to package. Last year, it began to combine "three heads and one palm" into a brand of "judging the palm by the head", and hundreds of gift boxes can be sold every week in specialty stores. "Our rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's paw have continued the traditional marinating process in Quzhou, and added 28 Chinese herbal medicines unique to the old gods." Zheng Huiwen, manager of the company's standardization department, said that "three heads and one palm" are generally sold in soup, and the company makes the packaging products closer to the taste in the production process. In the future, Bulao Shen plans to open specialty stores in major scenic spots in Quzhou, and gradually develop to other scenic spots.
Where is the way to "go global"
Uneven quality and no unified brand identity are the bottlenecks for the further development of "three heads and one palm".
It is a good wish of Quzhou people that "three heads and one palm" can go to the whole country, but there are thousands of specialty snacks all over the country. How should Quzhou "three heads and one palm" break through in the face of fierce competitors?
at present, "three heads and one palm" is still popular in Zhejiang province, and it is mainly cooked in small restaurants. Due to different hotel practices, and there is no uniform logo. At the same time, this industry is also shoddy to a certain extent. Most of the raw materials of Quzhou rabbit head and duck head come from Shandong and other places, but the purchasing standards of each hotel are different, which leads to differences in the freshness of raw materials. These are the bottlenecks for the further development of the "three heads and one palm" industry. It is understood that although the ingredients of rabbit head, duck head and duck's paw in each restaurant are similar, they are not consistent. There are more than a dozen kinds of exquisite dishes, and only three or four kinds are not very particular. Moreover, with the prevalence of eating "three heads and one palm" in various places, duck heads and duck feet that are not cooked in Quzhou have also joined the ranks.
not only the local people in quzhou love "three heads and one palm", but even the foreigners in Hangzhou and other places also relish "three heads and one palm" in quzhou. Chu Yin Chun is a white-collar worker in a unit in Hangzhou. Although her hometown is Zhoushan, she especially likes to eat rabbit heads and duck heads in Quzhou. "I think Quzhou cuisine is very distinctive and spicy." Chu Yin Chun said that although there are many restaurants that cook Quzhou cuisine, most of them are small in scale, not up to grade, and each has its own signboard, and there is no unified standard. "Like Shaxian snacks, although they are all small facades, the signs used and the color matching are all the same. I think a hotel with' three heads and one palm' can unify the facade first. "
"Without a unified logo and a unified store design, the impression of' three heads and one palm' is really a bit confusing." Insiders suggest that "three heads and one palm" can refer to the store design of restaurants such as Shaxian Snacks and Lanzhou Lamian Noodles, and display Quzhou culture in a unified way. "People know that this is a restaurant selling Quzhou's" three heads and one palm "from dozens of meters away."
some people in the industry also said that every hotel and every enterprise should develop its own characteristics in order to launch the brand of "three heads and one palm". Quzhou cuisine, located in the west of Zhejiang, has a fundamentally different flavor from some big cities. Quzhou's spicy is different from Sichuan spicy and Hunan spicy, spicy and warm, spicy and soft. The rabbit's head, duck's head and duck's paw in Quzhou have thus formed a fresh, fragrant and mellow feature. "Quzhou's' three heads and one palm' is famous because of its unique taste, and after years of development, the public taste has been formed, so don't change it easily." The executive chef of the Oriental Hotel said. "Because each chef uses different ingredients and blanking sequence, the' three heads and one palm' burned out has its own flavor. The formula of each enterprise is also different. Under the premise of ensuring similar quality and approximate taste, it is not bad for hotels and enterprises to try to make some innovations. "
Many people think that "three heads and one palm" belongs to Quzhou, and only when everyone owns Qi Xin can this industry develop healthily. "Whether it is a unified logo or developing its own characteristics, in short,' three heads and one palm' is the pride of Quzhou people and everyone should cherish it. The food industry is a conscience project. Only when everyone pays attention to quality and has a long-term development vision can we make the' three heads and one palm' industry bigger and better. " Insiders said.
Economic Review: Learn from Shaxian people to make brands
No matter where we go, we can see Shaxian snacks. Its rich variety and unified store design leave a deep impression on people. It is understood that at present, more than 52, Shaxian people have opened more than 18, stores in major cities across the country, which has become a major channel to solve the employment problem of Shaxian people.
how do shaxian people make local snacks blossom everywhere? Many people think that Shaxian snack is a franchise restaurant chain, but in fact, the brand of Shaxian snack is applied by Shaxian government, which can be used by all people in the county, and each store is independent. In 1997, the Shaxian government took the lead in setting up a trade association of Shaxian snacks and registered the service graphic trademark of Shaxian snacks. In 1999, Shaxian snack industry development service center was established, and training courses with different skills and training contents such as snack making, chain management knowledge and practical operation were held, so as to strengthen brand awareness from the aspects of business philosophy and health management. After training and examination, practitioners can obtain Shaxian snack merchants' standard license and trademark plaque. Shaxian snack is famous all over the world with the mode of "government guidance+unified brand+independent management".
At the same time, Shaxian also held the China Snack Tourism Culture Festival and founded Shaxian Snack Network, which not only publicized Shaxian snacks to the outside world, but also publicized Shaxian's development achievements and tourism industry.
the experience of shaxian county is worth learning from the enterprises in quzhou that run "three heads and one palm". The development of Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry can not only promote Quzhou snacks, but also be a good way to solve the employment of Quzhou people.
the author thinks that the establishment of a "three heads and one palm" industrial association can play a role in this respect. For example, through the industrial association, the "three heads and one palm" purchase and production standards are formulated, and training is carried out so that customers in any city can taste the authentic Quzhou flavor; Another example is to design a logo that can be used by Quzhou catering institutions and production enterprises for free, so that the impression of "three heads and one palm" is more unified and stronger; Then, industrial associations can coordinate trademark disputes. Before, unpleasant things happened in Quzhou's "three heads and one palm" industry because of trademark problems, and similar things can be solved through industry associations.
the strength of an industry is always greater than that of an enterprise. I hope that in the near future, the operators who are "three heads and one palm" will no longer be "fighting alone"