一
I often think about the following issues: It is not easy to build a century-old store, and it is not surprising that dynasties change. The small "Northern Sichuan jelly" has experienced hundreds of years. Why does it have such strong appeal and vitality? Why did the golden brand name that was snatched up by others finally return to its homeland?
Jelly, a snack! This snack is available in many places, but the method and name are slightly different. Sichuanbei jelly is named "Sichuanbei", which means that this jelly must have its own uniqueness, and it is the top and best quality jelly.
When talking about jelly, we have to start with peas. My hometown is located in northern Sichuan, which is a hilly area with barren and scarce land. Good land must be used to grow major foods, such as rice, wheat, corn, etc. Peas are non-staple foods and can only be planted in small and scattered plots on the hillside. piece. In autumn, my father removed the weeds and trees from the field, piled farmyard manure on the edge of the field, drove the oxen and plow, and plowed the land to create a trench. The mother had a bamboo basket slung across her body, filled it with some fertilizer, and put pea seeds in her pocket. She followed her father, scattering the seeds with one hand and the fertilizer with the other. The basket was empty; she bent down and took another handful. He filled the basket with handfuls and tried to straighten his waist to support the heavy basket. After finishing a trench, my father turned the plow to plow a new trench, covering the seeds in the previous trench with soil while kicking the large pieces of soil into pieces with his feet. Before a piece of land was planted, my father and Mother was so tired that she couldn't straighten up.
Around the time of winter, pea shoots sprouted from those fields, like curious children looking at the unfamiliar world. As the temperature dropped day by day, the pea seedlings grew in the cold. The wind was so cold that I shivered, and light raindrops fell on the leaves, like crystal tears. Even so, they survived the cold winter, and in the spring of the following year, they began to show their vigorous vitality. The vines were entangled with each other for a long time, covering the hillside with green, and the purple and white flowers competed to bloom and spread out. The beginning of spring. The migratory birds were attracted back and stayed in the mountains to sing, pushing the rhythm of spring to a climax.
The flat and long pea pods hang on the vines like smiling lips, gradually becoming fuller in the warm sunshine. When there is no harvest, my mother will pick some pods and put them on the table. The fragrance ignites our hope for the new year.
The pods matured and turned yellow along with the vine seedlings. The father and mother pulled out the vine seedlings and the pods one by one, carried them back on the back frame and exposed them to the sun. When the pod shells dried and cracked, they used The flails beat hard, and the peas fell off the ground. They took away the canes with shaking hands, swept the peas and garbage together, sieved the peas out, and left them in the sun for several days, until the peas became dry and hard. .
Since peas are hard, grinding requires several iterations. My mother gave us some fine powder to make gnocchi. To be honest, even though food was scarce at the time, I still found the gnocchi difficult to make. pharynx. My mother changed her method and soaked the peas in water a few days in advance. After my father was busy outside during the day, in the evening, he turned the stone mill under the light of kerosene lamp, ground the peas into a fine paste, put it into gauze and mixed it with a lot of water. Filter it into pea slurry. After the pea slurry has settled for a period of time, pour off the excess water. Then stir up the starch, pour it into an iron pot, and stir it vigorously with a rolling pin. When the starch is completely cooked, put it in an earthen jar and cool it. The resulting dough is shiny, like ice sculptures, like pearls, like white jade. Cut it into thin strips with a knife, add some seasonings, and the delicious jelly comes out.
二
At that time, food was in short supply, and making jelly was a waste of bean dregs. In addition, we were tired, so it was rare for my mother to make jelly for us. She could only make it during festivals or with relatives. When the time came, my parents had no choice but to make this effort. On weekdays, when I followed them to the market town, I would salivate when looking at the jelly displayed in the small shop. In the days of extreme poverty, a bowl of jelly became a luxury. Fortunately, these days are relatively short-lived. As economic conditions gradually improve, sometimes our parents will still satisfy our wishes.
Jelly is a good food for entertaining guests. When guests come from all over the mountains, their bellies are already empty. At this time, the main meal is still early, so my mother will cut out the jelly made in advance and mix it with condiments, so that the guests can experience the enthusiasm of our family in the hot and sour food. With the jelly as the base, the guests will enjoy themselves while drinking wine, and the joy of the gathering will be increased countless times.
Of course, in the season when vegetables are scarce, jelly will also become a delicacy to go with wine.
I don’t know when the jelly originated in my hometown. I only know that it has existed in our lives since I can remember. But I believe that jelly is by no means the first creation of my parents. Grandfather and even older ancestors should have had it since then. My father said that the stone mills in his hometown have been passed down for countless generations. The history of stone mills should be the history of jelly! But there must have been a stone mill before the stone mill!
三
After coming to Nanchong, because it is relatively affluent compared with my hometown, I have further contact and understanding of jelly. In the early years, Xie Tianlu, a former farmer from Jiangcunba, Nanchong County, used a pole to carry jelly on the left and condiments and a bucket of water on the right to sell jelly at a ferry. Because of his fine workmanship and unique taste, his jelly was popular among people. It is named "Xie Liangfen". Farmer Chen Hongshun further improved the method of Xie Liang Fen in the production of jelly and the preparation of red oil, and "Chen Liang Fen" has a unique reputation. Later people continued to improve the technology and made great efforts in condiments, and famous brands such as "Li Liang Fen", "Zhang Liang Fen" and "Lao Nanchong Liang Fen" were born. The most unique "sad jelly" in those stores is made with the spiciest and spiciest sesame oil. The name sounds strong, powerful, and feels like "I love you without negotiation." , making those guests who particularly like chili peppers feel delicious, comforting, and tearful. Nanchong people have a special taste because of "Northern Sichuan jelly".
Liangfen shops are dotted in the streets and alleys of Nanchong, with countless stalls and stalls, becoming an important industry. After the reform and opening up, the signboard of "Northern Sichuan Liangfen" was registered by a snack shop in Chongqing, and the old state-owned shops in Nanchong lost the opportunity to develop. In 2003, a man named Ren Qisheng bought back the "Sichuan North" registered trademark at a high price and established "Sichuan Chuanbei Liangfen Food Culture Co., Ltd.". "Sichuan North Liangfen" regained new development opportunities in the new era.
With the enrichment of material products and the development of science and technology, some new varieties of "Northern Sichuan jelly" have been born. From pea jelly, rice jelly, red sweet potato jelly and mung bean jelly are still warmly welcomed by people. , we have a long journey, but a bowl of jelly can relieve hunger. In the hot summer, a bowl of jelly directly refreshes the heart, and the taste of life becomes more intense.
IV
I checked some books and found that there are not many legends about jelly and famous people. The most famous one is "Dongpo jelly". Mr. Dongpo’s articles are not only top-notch in ancient and modern times, but he must also be unparalleled in the world in terms of food. Otherwise, so many delicacies are related to him, such as Dongpo pork elbow, Dongpo pork, etc. The fact that a "foodie" like Dongpo can be associated with jelly shows that jelly is indeed different from other delicacies. In fact, the early making of "Dongpo jelly" was similar to that of "North Sichuan jelly", but "North Sichuan jelly" has condensed the wisdom of generations, and its attainments are no longer the same. If anyone has eaten "Dongpo jelly" But he would be totally wrong if he underestimated the "North Sichuan jelly". Sometimes I think again, Mr. Dongpo has not been to so many places, but many delicacies are linked to Mr. Dongpo. Is this a bit like a dragon and a phoenix? Otherwise, given the great writer's temperament and literary talent, why didn't he leave a trace of ink after the criticism? However, the word "Sichuanbei" in "Northern Sichuan jelly" itself means that it is native and authentic, and people are never allowed to doubt it.
Celebrities who came out of Nanchong, such as Luo Ruiqing, the founding general of the People's Republic of China, still miss "Northern Sichuan jelly" very much when they are in a foreign country. After returning to their hometown many years later, they still miss a bowl of "Northern Sichuan jelly", which shows that "Northern Sichuan jelly" has left a lasting legacy. How much thoughts and concerns it gave to the wanderer in a foreign land!
The most interesting thing is a legend about Marshal Zhu De’s return home. That year coincided with the most difficult period of the national economy. The news of Mr. Zhu’s return to his hometown made the villagers overjoyed. In order to let Mr. Zhu experience the changes in his hometown in New China, local officials specially found some bacon and hung it on the shops along the street. , it was not enough, they even used blackened radishes and sweet potatoes instead, repeatedly expressing to the boss the changes in the lives of the people in their hometown. Mr. Zhu knew all this when he saw it, but he did not expose the truth directly. During lunch, he saw the bacon and chicken on the table and couldn't eat them at all. He suddenly said to them: "My favorite is Sichuan jelly. I want it." It would be great to have a bowl!" The officials were surprised and at a loss. The boss finally said: "If it's hard to find a bowl of jelly, how can we talk about the prosperity of the people?" The officials could only look at each other.
Later, Marshal Zhu De and Marshal He Long tasted the long-favored "Northern Sichuan jelly" together in Nanchong, and brought this snack to Beijing. From then on, "Northern Sichuan jelly" spread throughout the country.
五
Time is a ruthless filter. Only real gold will settle in the long river of history and shine as it should. After several years of development, "Northern Sichuan jelly" has not only become a delicacy, but also a unique cultural symbol - "Langfen culture". So, in addition to the processing technology of noodle dough and red oil, what other aspects should we "taste" of this "jelly culture"?
First, it is the hard work of planting peas and other food crops and making jelly. "Who would have thought that every grain of delicious food on the plate is hard work?" "Northern Sichuan jelly" has been popular for a long time, which truly embodies people's wisdom and labor. China's economy has basically ended the farming era, but the hardships of labor should be known to generations, and the culture of frugality should be promoted throughout society forever.
The second is the hospitality of people in northern Sichuan. The simple folk customs are currently being impacted by the tide of market economy, but I believe that good things will always have vitality. China's traditional culture has suffered several baptisms over thousands of years, but in the end it does not survive tenaciously and is as accommodating as the sea. All foreign cultures? So we must not let a moment of fog cover our eyes. Each of us should maintain a tough and calm mind and be the inheritors of good morals.
The third is to fully understand the connotation of "small" in "snacks". The nutrients needed by the human body cannot be neglected, let alone excessive. Only eating in moderation is good for the body. Eating and drinking too much is not good for yourself, others, or society. I have served guests with "Northern Sichuan Liang Fen" alone many times, and it is very popular among guests. Our welcome. A day's eclipse cannot last more than three meals, and a night's sleep cannot last more than seven feet. Human ambitions should be used to benefit mankind, society and even the natural environment. If it is used to satisfy greed and hedonistic desires, it will definitely dig its own grave.
The fourth is to carefully analyze the reasons for the emergence and existence of local specialty products such as "Northern Sichuan Liangfen" to fully create local characteristics. Practice has proven that pure borrowingism is often short-lived and will eventually become a shackles to that place.
Only after writing this article did I have the answer to the previous question. The vitality of "Northern Sichuan jelly" comes from this land, and it can truly meet people's daily needs and also Incorporating hard work, thrift and enthusiasm.
May the flowers of "Northern Sichuan Liangfen" be fragrant forever!
May the unique flowers bloom all over the world!