Hongcan.com
Published on 202 1-07- 14.
China is the noodle kingdom. This means that noodles can be eaten almost anywhere.
In recent years, people all over the country have become angry at the sight of bowls. Chongqing noodles, riding the east wind of China on the tip of the tongue, are all over the country.
The TV series "White Deer Plain" has lost its popularity, but in the play, Zhang Jiayi swallowed the bowl of oily biangbiang noodles in one gulp, making "White Deer Plain" a "large food documentary in Guanzhong".
Zhu Zi-zhi, a gourmet in Lu's Gourmet, has a bowl of Suzhou noodle soup as his first thought every day.
Lanzhou beef noodles are more famous than Lanzhou; Regan Noodles has long been famous for its hard-core "premature birth" of Wuhan people. In Shanxi, eating noodles cannot be repeated for one year.
But there is also a bowl of noodles, which is my favorite. The name is "burning" and the taste is "burning", but it is not easy to eat well.
This bowl of noodles is Yibin burning noodles.
Yibin people's bellies are made of burning noodles?
"Yibin people's day begins with burning noodles." This statement is right or wrong. Yibin people can eat noodles not only for breakfast, but also for lunch and dinner.
▲? Image source: @ 丫丫丫丫丫.
Yibin belongs to the Yangtze River basin. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, because Yibin was located in the main road of land and water transportation, merchants and caravans from south to north all settled in Yibin, and dock culture came into being, which also deeply affected its humanities and diet.
The rise of burning noodles in Yibin is also inseparable from the prosperity of dock culture. The trackers and water carriers work hard and earn little. The food they need must be a cheap fast food combination of high-carbon water+high fat+heavy taste. Yibin burning noodles with heavy oil are waterless and hungry, cheap and delicious, and they are the Jianghu delicacies of boatmen.
What does "burn" mean in Yibin burning noodles? ?
It is said that its oil is heavy and anhydrous, and it burns immediately after ignition, hence the name burning noodles. It is said that in the era when oil lamps were still very common, some household lamps and grass were used up, so noodles were put in oil lamps as wicks; On the other hand, it is said that the burning surface heavy oil is heavy and spicy, with strong personality, which tastes like fire and burns in the mouth; Some people think that "burning" is a process of evenly mixing noodles, oil and seasonings.
Besides burning noodles, there are also burning hands and powder. From this point of view, the second statement is more appropriate. Burning is a kind of seasoning and taste characteristic.
▲? Beef noodles. Three chefs/photos
Yibin people are proud of noodles. There is a popular saying in the local area that "there is no noodles in the world after eating Yibin noodles". Judging from the type, this sentence is not arrogant. Only dry noodles are ginger and duck noodles, pickled chicken noodles, spicy chicken noodles, Beijing sauce noodles, raw pepper beef noodles, pickled cowpea noodles, pickled frog noodles and so on. Red soup includes pork intestines noodles, beef noodles, bullfrog noodles, sparerib noodles, eel noodles and minced meat noodles. White soup includes chicken noodles with bamboo shoots, mushroom noodles, salty noodles, stewed chicken noodles and hoofed flowers noodles.
Yibin people took down your signboard without using water to cook noodles?
Burning noodles are divided into meat burning noodles, vegetarian burning noodles and soup burning noodles. Soup burning noodles with soup, meat burning noodles and vegetarian burning noodles are all dry mixed, the difference is whether there are scorpions or not.
But in either case, the surface used is "water leaf surface". In the hearts of Sichuanese, water leaves have a special position just like pea tips in pasta. Chongqing Xiao noodles and Neijiang beef noodles also use water leaves.
▲? Water leaves. Three chefs/photos
"Water leaf surface" refers to alkaline surface with low water content and hard and tough taste. Due to the addition of alkali, the noodles are pale yellow.
Boil water on the leaves, boil water in a big pot, let the water go in the pot, and then pick it up when it is broken. When eating noodles in Sichuan, it is often heard that diners tell the store to be "yellow"-the noodles should be cooked for a short time, the color is yellow, and the taste is harder.
Drain the water hard when fishing noodles. Don't underestimate this operation, otherwise the oil seasoning and noodles will not blend well, and they will still taste watery and won't "burn" at all.
Cooked noodles should be drenched with cooked rapeseed oil (you can also use rapeseed to stir-fry onion ginger, star anise, kaempferia kaempferia, pepper, fragrant leaves and other spices to make seasoning oil), sesame oil and cooked sea pepper to prevent noodles from sticking to each other. Sesame oil also has the function of enhancing fragrance. Add soy sauce, vinegar, salt and monosodium glutamate and stir until the noodles are ready. Vegetarian noodles, ingredients are white sesame seeds, shallots, peanuts, broken rice buds, and there is nothing shameful.
▲? Three chefs/photos
Broken rice sprouts, Yibin burning noodles, Sichuan people can not do without side dishes?
Mix the mixed noodles, sprinkle with fried peanuts (chopped peanuts after frying, not fried black), sesame seeds, shallots and broken rice buds. These ingredients are indispensable, especially broken rice buds.
▲? Broken rice buds. Image source: Network
Broken rice sprouts, Fuling mustard tuber, Nanchong winter vegetables and Neijiang kohlrabi are also known as one of the four major pickles in Sichuan and Chongqing. It is a pickled vegetable, which is made from shredded tender stems of mustard, dried and fermented. Sprouts are widely used in Sichuan cuisine, such as cooking, fried rice, steamed meat, porridge and so on. Braised pork with bean sprouts, chicken rice bean sprouts and Ciba are all foods made with shredded rice bean sprouts as the main seasoning. There are also broken rice buds in Dandan Noodles.
▲? Chicken and rice sprouts. Image source: Network
▲? Braised pork with bean sprouts. Image source: Internet.
▲? Leaf image source: Internet.
If it's pork noodles, you usually fry sprouts with minced meat. The sprouts are fresh and fragrant, the peanuts are crisp and fragrant, and the noodles are crisp and bright, with the fresh fragrance of cooked sea pepper and the mellow fragrance of sesame oil. A bowl of Yibin burning noodles is enough to comfort the wind and dust.
Yibin burning noodles really don't lose Chongqing noodles, but why is it not influential? ?
In my mind, burning noodles really don't lose Chongqing noodles, but Yibin burning noodles are much worse in terms of fame and radiation range.
Some people think that the "stumbling block" that hinders Yibin's burning face from going to the whole country is the water leaf surface. This is of course one of the reasons, but it can't tell the whole story. Chongqing noodles also use water leaves, although in Beijing, you rarely see which Chongqing noodles are really used.
Every place has its own pasta culture. The expansion of a diet and the radiation and diffusion of a diet culture are often accompanied by the rise of a city and the output of urban culture, which in turn attracts people's attention and brings more exposure and resources. Chongqing's going out of Chongqing depends on the rise of Chongqing, the people it has gone out of, and the yearning gourmets.
Famous snacks are "eaten", not "made". ?
But even if the national degree is like Chongqing noodles, it is not easy to eat delicious food outside the local area. As Chen Xiaoqing said: "There are only two kinds of Chongqing noodles, one is called Chongqing noodles, and the other is called Chongqing noodles opened in other places. Really delicious noodles, Beijing can't make it. "
Even if one day the influence of burning noodles in Yibin is comparable to that of small noodles, it is difficult to be the same as in the local area-you will not scold your mother wherever you eat. Good food has roots, and no one can take it away.