5- 1 raw materials
The cotton fiber part needs carding engineering; The nylon fiber part should be first-class fiber with high strength, the fiber length should be stretched to 65438 0.5 inches, the cross-sectional shape should be round, and the nominal fineness of semi-gloss should be 2.25 to 2.5 denier. It is forbidden to use any kind of inferior nylon fiber, such as unexpanded and Denny, mixed luster and cross section or any fiber processed. Even elongated, unexpanded or mixed or recycled fibers. The contractor shall provide a letter of guarantee from the fiber manufacturer, and each batch of nylon fiber must meet the following requirements. If 50% 5% nylon and the rest cotton blended yarns are used in warp and weft yarns, the fiber weight after desizing should be used when testing the blending ratio.
5-2 fabric
2/ 1 left oblique shuttle fabric should be used as the weave of cotton-nylon blended camouflage fabric. The minimum acceptable fabric width should be the width of warp yarns on both sides, excluding the part protruding from the selvage. Whether the selvage is woven by shuttle loom or shuttleless loom, the pleated structure should be adopted.
5-3 Dyeing and Finishing Engineering
Camouflage fabrics should be singed, desized, washed, mercerized, dyed and printed before printing and dyeing. And class 2 must be treated with water. The water repellency of starch and protein in fabrics printed and dyed in class 1 and non-fibrous materials containing chloroform solution and water-soluble substances for washing and fabrics printed and dyed in class 2 shall not exceed 2%. The warp and weft shrinkage and elongation of some camouflage printed fabrics shall not exceed 3.5%, and each batch of single sample fabrics shall not exceed 3.0%. And the pre-shrinking treatment should not be marked with trademarks, labels or packaging. Grade 2 fabric shall be treated with Quarpel waterproofing, and shall meet the waterproofing requirements in Table 1. The observation time must be close to six months, so emulsified carbon tetrafluoride and its extender are used for water rejection. After heat treatment, the fabric needs post-washing to remove all unreacted chemicals. The individual values of the spray grades of the three secondary samples should be equal to or better than 100,100,90. Liquid repellency (Grade 2): After 30 seconds, the treated Grade 2 fabric should show that it is not wetted by dodecane, and after 8 hours, it should show that it is not wetted by triethyl phosphate, dimethyl methyl sulfite and diethyl hexylsulfite. PH value: The water extracted from the finished fabric should be no less than 5.0 and no more than 8.5. Sewing efficiency: the sewing efficiency of the finished fabric should be no less than 80%. Fabric length and length: Unless otherwise specified, the fabric shall have a continuous length, and each batch shall not be less than 40 yards. Each batch should be packaged in rolls. In the part of fiber identification, the components of each roll should be marked according to the identification terms and regulations of textile fiber products. The finished cloth should meet the product quality specifications, and the defects per 100 yard should not exceed the specified defect value.
Table 1 hydrostatic pressure height of water demand (cm)
Minimum dynamic absorption (%)
Max 18.0 20.0 The front of the fabric should be dipped or printed with warp effect, and the color part of the fabric should be dyed with a background color close to light green 354. Woodland patterns should be printed by four-color screen printing or roller printing, so as to obtain light green 354, dark green 355 and brown 356 regional patterns on the base cloth. Also pay attention to unstable vulcanization, that is, the use of dyes and compounds should include sulfur oxidation to sulfuric acid, and then the dyed fabric will not appear unstable vulcanization compared with the standard sample. The color and appearance of the fabric after camouflage printing should be the same as the standard sample under the filtration of tungsten filament bulb. Moreover, the light source should be close to artificial sunlight, with a correlated color temperature of 7500 200 K and illumination of100 20 candle, which is in good agreement with the standard sample of incandescent lamp with a color temperature of 2300±200K K. The woodland pattern of the four-color printed fabric in the matching part of the equipment should match the corresponding color of the standard sample, and it should be detected by spectrometer in the visible wavelength range of electromagnetic wave of 400- 700nm. Table 2 below shows the maximum acceptable range (δA). Color acceptance depends on the following equation:
δA =[g 1 1(δA)+2g 12+g22+g33]
θ= tan(B0/A0)
g 1 1 =(cosθ/c)+(sinθ+/h)
2g 12 = 2 sinθcosθ[( 1/c)-( 1/h)]
g22 =(sinθ/c)+(cosθ/h)
g33= 1/v
δL, δa and δb are the sample standard values of CIELAB coordinate axis.
G 1 1, 2g 12, g22 and g33 are coefficients; A0 and b0 represent the standard values of A and B of CIELAB.
C is an acceptable value of chromaticity, H is an acceptable value of hue, and V is an acceptable value of luminosity.
Table 2 Maximum allowable range value of color Δ A Light green 354 1.60 Dark green 355 1.60 Brown 356 1.30 Black 357 1.00 The allowable values of chromaticity, hue and lightness of jungle pattern nylon/cotton twill fabric are shown in Table 3 below.
Table 3 Acceptable values of chromaticity, hue and luminosity (lightness), chromaticity (hue) light green 354 2.261.321.16 dark green 355 2.201.301. The rubbing fastness of the fabric after camouflage printing should be the same as or better than all the pattern areas of the standard sample; Or AATCC color transfer scale value of not less than 3.5. In addition to black 357, there should be an AATCC chromaticity transmission scale with a value not less than 1. The execution part of the pattern should pay attention to the design, color and registration of the representative area, and the pattern should be completely reproducible under the standard sample. The pattern repetition length of this camouflage printed fabric should be 27.25+ 1.25 inch and 27.25-2.5 inch. Reflectance coefficient part of the spectrum: the fabric after camouflage printing must meet the reflection coefficient value (%) in the visible and near infrared wavelength range (600-860nm) shown in Table 4. Spectrometers tested at visible and near infrared wavelengths can be equipped with IR for Diano Hardy, Diano Match Scan, Hunter D-54 P-IR, Hunter Vis/NIR and Macbeth 1500. In addition, the physical requirements of nylon/cotton twill fabric with camouflage printing must meet the requirements shown in Table 5.
Table 4 Requirement value of unit spectral reflectivity of camouflage printed nylon/cotton twill fabric: (%) wavelength (nm) black 357 light green 354 dark green 355 and brown 356 min. max.min.max.600-108103100. 38+00 8 18 3 10 640 10 8 18 3 9 660 10 8 18 3 12 680 10 1 0 22 3 65.438+04 700 10 18 33 5 18 720 10 22 45 7 20 740 10 30 55 12 28 760 10 35 65. 1 8 36 78010 40 75 26 44 800/kloc-0 45 80 34 52 820/kloc-0 50 86 42 60 840/kloc-0 55 88 50 68.860-/kloc-0 60 90 56 74. Physical properties of cotton twill fabric require grade minimum square yard weight (ounces) minimum fabric density (roots/inch) minimum fabric breaking strength (pounds) minimum fabric tearing strength (pounds) maximum average fabric air permeability (ft3/min/ft2) warp density weft16.8 86 54 200125/kloc.
There are two kinds of grading inspection methods.
(1). First article inspection, including appearance, color, finishing defects, composition identification, luster, denier and blending ratio of cotton and nylon fibers; Light fastness (after 40 hours); Fastness to washing; Sweat fastness; Friction fastness; Spectral reflection coefficient; Weight; Fabric density; Fracture strength; Tearing strength; Breathability; Fabric weaving; Singeing; Desizing; Mercerizing treatment; Non-fibrous materials (1 class); Type stability; Waterproof (Grade 2); Hydrostatic pressure (level 2); Dynamic absorption (type 2); Spray grade (Grade 2); PH value; Stitching efficiency test item.
(2) Quality consistency inspection, ingredient and raw material inspection and process inspection. For the application of water repellent mentioned above, the contents of starch and protein, including chloroform solution and water-soluble substances, should be checked according to FED-STD- 19 1. Printed fabrics 0.5 yards long should be checked. If any sample in each batch of fabrics does not meet the specification requirements, it is judged as unqualified. The sample size shall be sampled according to the requirements in Table 6 below.
Table 6 Sample size batch (code) Sample size (sample unit) below 800 2 exceeds 80 1 code, but it includes 22,000 code 3 exceeding 2,2001code, but it includes150,000 code 5 5-5 final project inspection.
(1). Check code by code.
If it does not exceed 100 yards, thoroughly check the front of the fabric. When the total length of the fabric exceeds 100 yards, it is only necessary to check the fabric of 100 yards. Define all fabric defects according to FED-STD-4 method. This batch of fabrics with more than 30 defects per 100 yard can be regarded as unqualified. Two or three rolls of fabric with more than 45 defects per 100 square yard can be regarded as unqualified. If there are more than 45 defects per 100 square yard of fabric when the number of samples is 20, the single roll quality of the second sample in 20 rolls should be checked. If one or more rolls in the second sample have more than 45 defects per 100 square yard of fabric, the batch can be regarded as unacceptable. The calculation of quality and individual defects is shown in the following formula:
Fabric defects per 100 yard
= (total number of defects in the sample *3600)/ (contract width of fabric * total number of inspection codes)
Defects shall be defined as follows:
At any scale, the defect point exceeds and includes the 3-inch button of 1 point.
2 points will be deducted for any defect with a dimension exceeding 3 inches but not exceeding 6 inches.
3 points will be deducted for any defect with a dimension exceeding 6 inches but not exceeding 9 inches.
4 points will be deducted for any defect with a dimension exceeding 9 inches.
Each yard has the following defects, 4 points will be deducted.
Appearance of fabric: the fabric gives off an unpleasant smell, which is loose, wrinkled or wavy, the width is less than the specified value, and it is stretched outward to form a loose, too loose or too tight hem, which is unclean, the pattern design does not meet the standard sample, the color of any part of the pattern is incorrect, and the pattern repetition unit is incorrect with the standard sample. The color jump phenomenon (mottled and uneven color) of the pattern exceeds the standard sample, and the pattern has too many burrs and spray flowers compared with the standard sample; Compared with the standard sample, the pattern has too many teeth exposed; Compared with the standard sample, the pattern has too many halos and traps; The overall water repellency is uneven; And the pattern is not printed on the front of the fabric.
Whether the selvage is qualified or not is judged by visual inspection. Each roll of samples must stop at least three times on the cloth inspection rack, and then check the edge of the cloth. If there are waves or obvious diamond-shaped waves across the width direction of the fabric, the hem is extremely slack or tense.
(2). Length view
The fabric length of each roll of samples should be checked. If it is found that the length is less than the minimum defined length or the mark on the label exceeds 2 yards, it shall be regarded as a length defect. If the actual total length is less than the length marked on the label, the batch shall be regarded as unqualified.
(3) color depth and appearance inspection
The color depth and appearance of each batch of samples should be checked. If the color of any component has a difference in color darkness on any sample roll, or does not have the same appearance as the standard sample on any sample roll, the whole batch will be returned. The name, trademark or label on the fabric should clearly indicate the preshrinking process.
(4) Testing of the final product
The fabric shall be inspected according to the method of FED-STD- 19 1. All test reports should contain individual values to show the final results. For all physical and chemical properties, except dimensional stability, the sample length of 1 fabric should be the full width of 3 consecutive yards, and the sample length of Class 2 fabric should be the full width of 4 consecutive yards. If the average dimensional stability of one or more samples or each batch does not meet the required specifications, the batch shall be regarded as unacceptable. The maximum batch size is 150000 yards. The sample size is shown in Table 7 below:
Table 7 Sample size batch (code) Sample size (sample unit) Under 800 codes, 2 codes exceed 80 1 code but contain 22,000 codes, 3 codes exceed 2,2001code but contain150,000 codes5. Dimensional stability test.
The length of the fabric sample should be the full width of 2 yards. The size of each batch cannot exceed 150000 yards. The sample size should be as shown in the following table. In addition, the size of each test sample is 24 inches *24 inches, and the test times are three times. After washing, the dimensional stability in the warp and weft directions is tested. The dimensional stability test shall be equipped with washing wheel, washing wheel equipment, preheating tank, centrifugal extractor, dryer, stamping device, measuring ruler, balance and other equipment. The detergent can be synthetic detergent, sulfur-containing detergent and water with hardness not exceeding 50PPM. The washing plan and method are shown in Table 8 and Table 9 below:
Table 8 Batch (number of samples) of washing schedule Sample size (number of samples) 10000 yards or less; Code 5 exceeds10,001and contains 35,000 codes; Code 8 exceeds 3500 1 code, including 65438. 000 yards 13 table 9 washing method operation method ingredients water quantity (gallon) water quantity (inch) temperature (Fahrenheit) time (minute) 1. Foam synthetic cleaner (10g) 14.36 100 52. Soap and water synthetic cleaner (6g). 9.3 4 14053. Flushing -20.5 8 14034. Flushing -20.5 8 12035. Rinse sulfur-containing cleaner (24g) 20.5 8 100 36. Flushing -20.5 8 100.
The final inspection report document shall be specially defined as follows:
1. Name, quantity and date of this specification.
2. Demand level,
3. The first necessary project,
4. If necessary, specify the mode specification.
5. The required width of the fabric,
6. Other specific lengths,
7. Storage and packaging methods.
(6). Pattern area
It has been found that the following formula can be used for dip dyeing or printing and dyeing, and satisfactory pattern effect can be obtained. Among light green 354, brown 356 and dark green 355, only vat dyes can complete satisfactory printing tones; Black 357 can use a combination of vat dyes and sulfur dyes to obtain a satisfactory printing tone. Light green 354
Reduced orange 2
Reduced green 1
Reduced yellow sulfur black 6
Reduced blue 20
Reduced brown 3
Reduced black 1 1 brown 356
Reduced brown 57
Reduced brown 3
Reduced yellow 2
Reduced green 1 dark green 355
Reduced brown 3
Reduced green 1
Reduced yellow 2 background color
Acid blue 258
Reduced green 1
Reduced yellow 2