When it comes to Jinyun’s most famous snacks, people must recommend “Jinyun Shaobing”. Jinyun Shaobing is famous not only because it is delicious and nutritious, but also because it has a long history and profound cultural heritage.
一
The inherent qualities of color, aroma and taste, delicious and nutritious are the important reasons why Jinyun Shaobing has gone out of the mountains and become famous all over the world. Look at the freshly baked sesame cakes, which are steaming and seem to be covered with a faint haze; the brown-yellow surface is shiny, and the sesame seeds dotted here and there are faintly fragrant. , dried vegetable aroma, sesame aroma, sugar and oil aroma are integrated into one, and it comes from the nose. Before you even eat the cake, you will feel its beautiful color and aroma. Take a bite, the skin is crispy, the inside is soft and waxy, moderately salty, oily but not greasy, full of flavor and endless aftertaste. It is truly a snack with good color, aroma and taste. Especially when Jinyun Shaobing is baked, one side is heated by the furnace wall and the other side is heated by the charcoal fire. However, due to the external barrier of the cake skin, the fat inside the meat is boiled out as the heat rises, allowing the filling to slowly absorb. heat until cooked through. This not only makes Jinyun Shaobing crispy on the outside and waxy on the inside, but more importantly, it well preserves the protein, vitamins and other nutrients contained in the meat, dried vegetables, green onion leaves, etc. Instrumental measurements have shown that Jinyun Shaobing is rich in fat, sugar, calcium, phosphorus, iron and other ingredients, and has a strong effect of tonifying the body and replenishing qi. It is a good health food.
The key reason why Jinyun Shaobing is both delicious and nutritious, and is crowned as "Jinyun flavored snack", lies in its exquisite ingredients and unique and scientific traditional baking techniques.
The main raw materials of Jinyun Shaobing are flour, pork, and dried vegetables. The auxiliary ingredients include onions, sesame seeds, sugar oil, etc. These raw materials are all characterized by the word "earth". For example, the flour is made from native wheat noodles produced by farmers in the county, the pork is made from fresh native pork raised by farmers in the county, the sugar oil is cooked with special maltose, and even the barbecue ingredients are used. Charcoal is generally made from kiln-fired “white charcoal”. As for the selection of dried vegetables, it is more sophisticated. Because Jinyun dried vegetables include dried mustard greens, dried cabbage, dried cabbage, etc., dried mustard greens are divided into ordinary dried mustard greens and nine-headed mustard (Potherb mustard) dried vegetables, and nine-headed mustard dried vegetables are the best local specialty dried vegetables. . Jinyun Shaobing is made exclusively from the special dried mustard with a sauce-brown color, mellow and nutritious flavor. The preparation method must be to harvest the nine-headed mustard, then wash it, cut it into fine pieces, dry it to remove moisture, pickle it (about 10 kilograms of vegetables and 1.5 kilograms of salt), dry it in the sun, then stew it, steam it, and dry it in the sun ( It is best to steam and dry it multiple times) and more than ten procedures such as standby.
One of the so-called unique and scientific traditional baking techniques of Jinyun Shaobing is the specially made cake barrel. Most of the so-called "shaobing" in other parts of the country are baked in a flat-bottomed iron pan. At best, they can only be called "pancakes." Jinyun Shaobing is a cake made by grilling it over charcoal fire using a unique "shaobing barrel" created by Jinyun people and specially used for baking sesame cakes. Therefore, it is a veritable "shaobing", also known as "barrel cake". The inner wall of this kind of sesame cake barrel is made of a special ceramic furnace, the outside is hooped with fir wood, and the middle is filled with insulation materials or soil; there are grates, ash leakage chambers and air inlets under the furnace; the surface of the cake barrel is made of fir boards to form a platform. There is a ruler with a diameter in the middle, which can be used to place the upper mouth of an earthenware pot; the inner wall of the furnace is used to stick cakes, and the middle of the grate at the bottom of the inner chamber is used to place charcoal fire. What I want to talk about here in particular is the clay-fired hearth, which is shaped like a pottery urn with the lower half cut off. It can be said that it looks ugly, but don’t underestimate it! Because this technique of pasting the cake base inside the ceramic furnace and grilling the mature cakes over charcoal fire is almost a unique traditional skill of the Jinyun people. Especially with the popularity of Jinyun Shaobing in various places, more and more people, local or out of town, are learning to bake Shaobing, resulting in a substantial increase in the demand for furnaces. There are only a handful of places where pottery furnaces can be made. In addition, the Dongshan pottery furnaces in Jinyunhu Town are fine in workmanship, strong and durable. The most important thing is that the thickness is moderate and the heat transfer is even, so that the baked sesame cakes are especially crispy. As a result, Dongshan pottery furnaces became famous and sold well all over the country. It is said that some big manufacturers of furnaces can buy six to seven thousand furnaces in a month. Villagers in Dongshan proudly said, "There are still many people in our village who have never flown by plane, but the furnaces we make are often flown to various places by plane."
Secondly, the workmanship is traditional and fine. The meat for grilling sesame cakes is preferably pork belly with fat and lean parts separated. When making the stuffing, first cut the pork belly into dices, mix with dried vegetables and chopped green onions, add an appropriate amount of condiments as appropriate, and then mix evenly with chopsticks.
The stuffing at this time is red with white inside, vegetables are dry brown with black inside, and scallions are tender green with emerald green, which can be described as colorful. The dough for making cakes needs to be mixed with boiling water (cold water is used for delayed use in summer), fermented with "noodles", and repeatedly pushed and kneaded to make sure it is even and thorough. When making the cake base, pay special attention to the uniform thickness of the upper and lower layers. After the cake base is ready, apply a layer of sugar oil on the front and sprinkle with a small amount of black sesame seeds. The furnace must first use white charcoal fire to smoke the inner wall to a suitable temperature. If it is too hot or too cold, the cake will not stick to it and fall into the furnace. Before pasting the cake base into the furnace, pat the back with water. Don't be afraid of burning when inserting, and move briskly. After pasting, the heat must be controlled to prevent the fire from being too strong and scorched, or the fire being too weak and "drying out". When making the cakes, special attention should be paid to prevent the sesame cakes from falling into the bottom of the furnace and getting stuck on the furnace ashes... Jinyun "Sweet Potato" from Badajiao is so meticulous and closely connected to make the sesame seed cakes with full color, flavor and flavor, and the famous "Jinyun sesame seed cakes" brand.
Of course, when it comes to "Jinyun Shaobing", we have to mention its traditional "companion" - the 'Jinyun Noodle Dumplings' which are said to be "not burnt". The Shaobing is grilled, the wonton soup is boiled, and it is dried. It's so well-coordinated that you never get tired of eating it, so Jinyun Shaobing restaurants (stalls) usually also sell noodles and dumplings.
As of 1989, "Jinyun Shaobing" won the first place in the Lishui area dim sum evaluation and was also ranked first. The Provincial Department of Commerce rated it as a high-quality snack (the best product grade). In Jinyun, you can see sesame cake stalls in the streets and alleys of villages and towns, in scenic spots, in front of theaters, and even on the roadsides and in pavilions. There are many masters. According to rough statistics in the early 1990s, more than a thousand people from Jinyun went out to bake biscuits. Now, there are thousands of them every year, and they travel all over the country. Regardless of whether you are in or outside the province, whether in the city or in the countryside, if you encounter a Shaobing stall, you will find that they are all from Jinyun. If you don’t believe me, why don’t you try it?
二
Jinyun Shaobing has a long history. It has a rich history and profound cultural heritage.
It is said that the craftsmanship of Jinyun Shaobing was invented after being inspired by Emperor Xuanyuan’s elixir making in Jinyun Mountain. He was very focused and didn't even leave for a moment to eat. Like Huang Di, the ministers didn't dare to leave even half a step. But "people are like iron rice and will be hungry if they don't eat a meal." The dough was presented to the Yellow Emperor and distributed to other ministers. So when the kings and ministers were hungry, they would grab a piece of dough and bake it on the wall of the alchemy furnace. Making pottery stoves and grilling dough for consumption, in the hope that the sun and the moon would change. Although the people did not become immortals, after continuous improvement, they finally created their own unique Shaobing barrels and the world-famous Jinyun Shaobing.
The above legend links Jinyun Shaobing with Xuanyuan Huangdi, the ancestor of humanities, which lengthens the history and raises the value. As a legend, it is understandable, but according to my analysis, the real inventor of Jinyun Shaobing is Jinyun. Mountain people in ancient times burned bricks, tiles, and charcoal. In the mountains, Jinyun mountain people have a tradition of making a living by burning bricks, tiles, and charcoal. In the 1960s and 1970s, many Jinyun people went out to Jiangxi, Fujian and other places to make a living. This is a livelihood. It is said that they created it because after the bricks and charcoal are fired and cooled, the kiln workers have to work day and night to get out of the kiln. Even after cooling, the kiln workers are still very hot. They neither missed work nor missed meals, so they mixed the flour before leaving the kiln and stuck it on the wall of the kiln to satisfy their hunger. Later, they added cake fillings to improve the taste, and repeated this process to make the cakes delicious. When Qingxiang opened the door, the kiln workers couldn't wait to eat it when they came out of the kiln. The clever bricklayers tried to bake the sesame cakes in a charcoal stove shaped like the kiln wall. After repeated trials and improvements, they finally created the baked sesame cakes. A complete set of equipment and barbecue techniques for sesame cakes.
The invention and origin of Jinyun sesame cakes can be judged by the wise. But one thing should be noted that it was at least six hundred years ago in the Yuan Dynasty. It's already famous. It is said that in December of the 18th year of Zhizheng in the Yuan Dynasty (1358), Hu Dahai, general of Zhu Yuanzhang's rebel army, attacked Wuzhou (Jinhua). After being unable to capture it for a long time, Zhu Yuanzhang personally went to supervise the formation in the west of the city. He defeated the reinforcements and the Wuzhou defender surrendered. The strange thing is that "one day before the city was destroyed, the people in the city saw five-colored clouds in the west of the city like the cover of a car, and thought it was strange" ("History of the Ming Dynasty"). The news reached Zhu Yuanzhang's ears and he regarded it as a good omen. He also learned that Jinyun, not far from Wuzhou, was also called "Five Clouds" in ancient times. There is also a legend about the Yellow Emperor's ascension to the immortal Ding Lake, and it is an auspicious place where dragons thrive.
Therefore, it is believed that the appearance of the "five-colored clouds" is God's guidance that one must go and offer sacrifices in order to achieve great achievements. Suffering from the fact that Jinyun was still under the control of the Yuan soldiers at that time, Zhu Yuanzhang had no choice but to visit Jinyun incognito and worship Emperor Xuanyuan. I was able to taste Jinyun Shaobing here and found it very delicious. I never forgot it after that. After he ascended the throne and became the emperor, he immediately sent people to Jinyun to select a master and brought him back to the palace to specialize in making sesame cakes. One morning, Zhu Yuanzhang was eating sesame seed cakes and just took a bite. The eunuch in the palace reported that Liu Bowen wanted to see him. Zhu Yuanzhang thought that Liu Ji was a master of calculation and military tactics, so he might as well try him again this time. So he put the sesame cakes on the plate and covered them with a bowl. After Liu Jili sat down, Zhu Yuanzhang asked: "Sir, you know a lot about mathematics. Can you tell what is under the bowl?" Liu Bowen counted with his thumb wheel and answered: "Half like the sun and half like the moon, one part was once bitten by a golden dragon. According to I think it is Shaobing." Zhu Yuanzhang was filled with admiration. Later, he asked about the fate of the country, and it became a famous cryptic prophetic ballad - "Shaobing Song", which has been circulated around the world and is still regarded as a divine composition. In fact, Liu Ji's strategizing and clever calculations are recognized by the world. But this time, guessing the sesame cakes is more likely to be mysterious. Because Liu Ji studied in Shimen Cave in Qingtian not far from Jinyun in his early years, and later had many Jinyun friends such as Zheng Bao (known as "Zheng Guoshi" among the people), and also married a wife named Chen in Jinyun Yazhai, so Jinyun sesame cakes are of course It couldn't be more familiar. Although Zhu Yuanzhang covered the freshly baked sesame cakes, the fragrance had already reached Liu Ji's nose. Can you guess it? Of course, this story is enough to show that sesame cakes were popular in Jinyun at least before the founding of the Ming Dynasty.
To this day, Jinyun Shaobing, which was originally only rooted in the folk, has been fortunate enough to ascend to the palace of elegant literature. "Kuocang Mountain Enmity" written by Mr. Wu Yue, a writer from Jinyun, is praised as a living dictionary of folk customs in southwestern Zhejiang in modern times. In his eloquent two-million-word work, he touches on Jinyun Shaobing more than thirty times. The customs and customs of various characters in Jinyun who like to taste Jinyun sesame cakes are presented to the world in the form of literary works.
Coincidentally, in 2005, "Little Tiger" Lu Xiaowu composed and sang "Jinyun Shaobing Song" in Jinyun dialect. It was widely circulated on the Internet and in the streets and alleys of Jinyun, making Jinyun Shaobing even more famous. To spread.
The most fortunate thing is that in 2013, Jinyun officially established the "Jinyun Shaobing Office" and the "Jinyun Shaobing Association", and began to formulate the "Jinyun Shaobing Enterprise Standards" and "Jinyun Shaobing Association" in 2014 "Production Procedures", applying for certification trademarks, and holding free Jinyun Shaobing production skills training... Jinyun Shaobing has truly entered the spring of rapid development.