Taking a step back is the loss of price advantage; Further, it is the dilution of noble blood. How to keep a distance from China manufacturing has become a proposition that Dzheniya has repeatedly weighed.

China people don't accept luxury goods made in China, which puzzles Giorgio Delpiano. He is the managing director of Dzheniya and the CEO of Global Strategic Alliance.

"The acceptance of Chinese-made Dzheniya in China market is even lower than that in Europe and America. It has Italian design and can support local manufacturing, and the price is more reasonable. I don't understand what the problem is." He said. In fact, he should know that the top Italian menswear brand he works for sells not only design, texture and craftsmanship, but also taste and identity.

a widely circulated story is that it costs 13, RMB to customize a handmade Dzheniya global limited edition suit. Craftsmen spin wool of 12 to 13 microns, and the finished products look even finer than silk with the naked eye. Fabric has requirements for climate and needs to be processed in Switzerland. Italy's top technicians measure the genre, and even the buttons are made of the hardest horniness of animals. The whole production process lasts for 5 days.

After a hundred years of family business, three generations of grandparents and grandchildren in Italian towns have made handicrafts for themselves, which is a cultural part that Dzheniya often mentioned. Former US President Bill Clinton, former French President Mitterrand and British Prince Charles have all shown people Dzheniya in public, which is an anecdote that can attract the media.

Dzheniya was thus associated with nobility. Chen Xiaoxiang, a Wenzhou businessman who established Xia Meng Yijie Clothing Co., Ltd. with Dzheniya, said: "4% to 5% of customers in China buy Dzheniya suits as gifts."

In the concept of China's new rich class, two symbols "Italian origin" and "Dzheniya" are indispensable to express their extraordinary taste and identity. And "Made in China" is obviously harmful to this expression of taste and identity-these four words are more likely to remind people of cheap shoes, hats and underwear. According to the statistics of Global Luxury Report in 27, 86% of China customers will not continue to buy luxury brands because they are marked with the words "Made In China".

This makes luxury brands who want to find a foundry in China have to be careful. Rui Hong, a freelance writer and clothing industry observer, said that many luxury brands are secretive about OEM in China, but in fact, many of their garments were born in some heavily guarded workshops in Dongguan and Wenzhou. Workers in these workshops can't contact the outside world without authorization, and the number of trademarks is counted every day. Patrick Thomas, global president of French luxury brand Hermes, said in an interview with China Business News that it is absolutely impossible to put the production link in China.

but the temptation is so great. "The cost of labor alone is 2 times that of China. As a profit-seeking enterprise, it is normal to choose China for production." Rui Hong said.

Dzheniya is bolder. In fact, whether opening a shop in China or purchasing in China, Dzheniya is a brand that started to "eat crabs" earlier.

in the 198s, Dzheniya came to China in search of the best cashmere and silk in the world. Unexpectedly, the biggest gain of this trip was to discover the potential of China market. In 1991, Dzheniya opened the first exclusive store in Beijing Wangfujing Hotel (21.55,.6,2.86%, bar). At that time, the luxury brands in China people's minds were still Pierre Cardin (Pierre Cardin) and Crocodile (Crocodile). Dzheniya has almost become a Dzheniya suit in whispers, with a foreign exchange certificate of 8, yuan, which is almost equal to the total income of an ordinary worker in China for three years.

However, the opening of this store is obviously at the right time. For the China market, Dzheniya has a sensitive touch that is envied by peers, which makes Dzheniya one of the top men's wear brands with the largest sales volume in China. By the end of 27, Dzheniya had nearly 6 stores in China, and the overall sales revenue rose by 38%. The China market, including Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan, gradually surpassed Japan to become Dzheniya's second largest market in the world.

With the gradual understanding of China's manufacturing capacity, Dzheniya began to purchase some leisure products in the southeast coast in 22. At this time, public opinion in China also began to pay attention to the luxury goods made in China. Burberry, Coach and other brands set up factories in China in public, which once became the news of the industry. Subsequently, Armani, Chanel and other brands were also involved. The controversy aroused by them is still a strange connection between the two concepts of "noble" and "cheap".

In this regard, Delpiano believes that the design, manufacture and service of products like T-shirts in China are second to none in the world. "If Dzheniya does not purchase in China, it will lose its market competitiveness." For example, he said, Gucci didn't choose to make in China for such products, which directly led to the shrinking sales of leisure products such as T-shirts.

In fact, Dzheniya, which started from selling fabrics, has strong manufacturing strength, and it has many partners in the fashion industry. Some important designer brands, such as Armani, Versace, Gucci, etc., will hand over some products to Dzheniya for OEM, which makes Dzheniya have Spanish, Romanian, Mexican and other foundries all over the world.

in p>23, Delpiano came to China to try to find a partner from China. After visiting more than 1, factories, he took a fancy to Chen Xiaoxiang and his Chamonix Clothing Co., Ltd., and immediately took a 5% stake, rebuilt the original Chamonix factory and set up a joint venture company, Xia Meng Yijie. "Until this year, our OEM still accounts for 6% of Xia Meng Yijie's total sales of more than 3 million yuan." Chen Jianwei, Marketing Director of Xia Meng Yijie, said.

When Xia Meng Yijie celebrated its 5th anniversary, Dzheniya was no longer in charge of the planning and organization of the whole celebration ceremony, but also let the directors of the company stand on the stage and let the joint venture brand "borrow light".

Delpiano said: "Five years ago, public opinion thought that we would let Xia Meng finish our formal clothes. Time proved that they were wrong." In his description, Dzheniya's formal wear series will not move out of Italy, because the price factor has little influence on Dzheniya's formal wear customers. On the contrary, products with the label made in China need to be reduced in price, because everyone knows that it is cheap to purchase in China. "If you migrate those series with brand loyalty, the price decline will not be slower than the cost reduction, which is stupid."

You can't help but choose to make in China, and you can't be too intimate. How to keep this sense of distance, Dzheniya thought of the following ways: first, distinguish the product lines, and the formal wear series, including leather shoes and shirts, should be carefully taken care of in the country of origin; Nearly 5% of leisure series such as sweaters and T-shirts are purchased from China. The original category in Italy can not move, and the new product line can be considered to be placed in the Far East.

followed by pricing strategy. For goods purchased from China, the selling price will be appropriately lowered on the premise of considering the purchase price and freight. Delpiano regards customer orientation, the target of such products, as a "practical customer". They trust Dzheniya brand, but they don't think that high price is the means to ensure quality.

In terms of quality control, two or three technicians will be stationed in Dzheniya to supervise the process and train workers before giving the samples to the foundry. After the product comes out, there will be a third-party testing agency to conduct special tests. "Dzheniya is strictly selected and the elimination rate of foundries is high." Rui Hong said.

can the same style of clothes made in China be comparable to those made in Italy? Delpiano's answer is that there will be differences for different products. T-shirts and other products are not very different, while products with high technological requirements, such as suits, will be somewhat different. The quality of craftsmen and the professionalism of rival industries are better than those of Italians. Even if it is the same process, it will be produced in Italy with some more elaborate treatment methods.

"If you go to stores all over the world, 4 of the 2, pieces of Dzheniya clothes may be made in China," Delpiano knocked on his forehead. "The board of directors will repeatedly measure the position of the' warning line', and this line will change according to the different economic situation."

since we can't "degrade ourselves" in formal attire, we might as well launch another brand in the mid-range market. After playing the role of foundry for five years, Xia Meng Yijie began to launch his own brand "Chamonix". "As far as I know, this is the first time that Dzheniya has promoted its own brand in the world." Chen Jianwei said.

At the beginning of the joint venture, Xia Meng Yijie introduced the ERP system and logistics distribution system recommended by Dzheniya. With the actual operation of OEM orders, Xia Meng Yijie began to sharpen the processing technology. The process of a suit has increased from more than 2 to 38. The reasonable shift system has more than doubled the time of manual production. Project quality supervision has also increased the frequency and density.

Xia Meng Yijie's core team is almost all old ministers of Dzheniya, who served in Dzheniya for 15 years. Silvio Galimberti, the global vice president in charge of transnational business operations, was hired as the CEO of the company. The chief financial officer and factory manager are all from Dzheniya. Chen Xiaoxiang became the chairman of the company.

in p>25, Xia Meng Yijie recruited Leo Rogna, a designer of Dzheniya style, and Christophe Fortis, a designer of Versace, to ensure the originality of new products and the continuity of design concepts. In the past three years, foreign designers have gradually become dominant, and Xia Meng Yijie has begun to use more high-grade fabrics in his own brand's clothing. The price of suits has also been adjusted from 2, yuan to 4, yuan in Chamonix to 5, yuan to 1, yuan, living in the price level of high-end and international mid-range brands in China.

At this time, consumers' resistance to Made in China has also softened. In a luxury report in 28, The Wall Street Journal said: "Five years ago, if shirts were not made in Britain or Italy, they would not be regarded as top grade. This is not the case now. "

when the joint venture brand was launched, it coincided with the spread of the subprime mortgage crisis in 28. The first expense that people who start to scrimp and save is naturally luxury consumption. According to the statistics of American Media Newsletter, in December, more than half of American high-end consumers cut back on luxury consumption. In this month, luxury brands in the US market dropped 22% year-on-year.

Dzheniya can't be immune. According to Delpiano, the company's sales volume has dropped significantly in the past three months; The backlog of inventory will make the first quarter of next year very sad, and new products will not be launched too much. In 28, the sales volume is only expected to increase by 7% compared with that in 27. At the end of the second quarter of 28, the company still set this target at double digits.

This makes Dzheniya pay more attention to Chamonix brand. Delpiano said that the product line of the joint venture brand is exactly the same as that of Dzheniya, but the audience does not overlap. Chamonix's price just makes up for the gap in Dzheniya in the formal wear field. "Just like the protective net under the tightrope program, someone falls down a level and can be caught by the cooperative brand in Dzheniya."

In mid-28, when Chen Xiaoxiang discussed Chamont's brand strategy with Dzheniya executives, he advocated pushing the joint venture brand to the international market as soon as possible. On the other hand, the Italian side thinks that we should slow down. Xia Meng Yijie needs to verify his brand, quality and service in the China market, and then promote it internationally.

finally, the time to go abroad was tentatively set in 21, and Milan, Paris and London became the choice of store locations. In order to conform to the brand image, Chamont began to follow the example of international first-line brands to promote advanced tailor-made services in China. However, the situation that there are only 9 direct stores in the existing 8-odd stores will also change. Xia Meng Yijie decided to expand Chamonix direct stores to 5 stores within five years.