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How much do you know about Fujian’s tea culture?

Fujian is the hometown of oolong tea. It has a thousand-year history of tea culture and is the birthplace of tea culture. The written records of tea production in Fujian are more than 300 years earlier than the "Tea Classic". The famous Lotus Peak and its lotus tea form a A unique landscape of tea culture in the hometown of overseas Chinese.

Jiancha and tea fighting became popular in the Song and Yuan dynasties. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, tea innovation increased, and the oolong tea making process was pioneered. The tea trade became more and more prosperous. The tea mountains and tea in Wuyi Mountain further embellished Fujian. The cultural background of tea.

Modern Fujian tea culture has been further developed based on inheritance from its predecessors. Tea growing, tea making, tea selling, tea tasting, tea competition, etc. almost occupy the life content of tea villagers.

Tea making is scientific and tea tasting is cultural, which constitutes the unique cultural characteristics of Fujian region.

From firewood, rice, oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea to music, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, wine and tea, tea is so close to people’s lives, and is both refined and popular. Tea is a deep and meaningful culture.

Thousands of years of historical accumulation and civilization inheritance have made the colorful Chinese civilization wonderfully dissolved in the fragrance of tea. In the history of mankind, people have regarded tea as their life. The enjoyment, the bridge of friendship, the symbol of civilization and the incarnation of spirit.

Its discovery and application have shocked the world and attracted the attention of the world.

China is known as the "hometown of tea" and "the birthplace of tea culture".

With the continuous history of Chinese tea culture, Fujian tea culture embodies geographical spirituality. Tea has been in Fujian for thousands of years. Fujian has the most tea creations and the most amazing tea tasting skills. Fujian tea has an important historical position and cultural value in the development of tea in China and even in the world.

The Lotus Tea Border Book of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, Nanyang Homesickness and Reminiscences of Stone Pavilion

The written records of tea production in Fujian were first seen in the cliff stone inscription "Lotus Tea" on the Lotus Peak Stone in Fengzhou Ancient Town, Nan'an County "Breast" (376 AD).

This is more than three hundred years earlier than what was recorded in Lu Yu's "Tea Classic".

In ancient times, Fengzhou was the political, economic and cultural center of southern Fujian.

Lianhua Peak is located in the northwest of Taoyuan Village in the north of Zhenbei. The peak is about 120 meters high. The Lianhua Rock Temple was built as far away as the Western Jin Dynasty.

In the Tang Dynasty, there was an Ouyang Zhan study room built on the mountainside.

When the poet Han Xi lived in seclusion here in the late Tang Dynasty, he once wrote a poem "Looking for Zhisou on the rock cliff, a folk song of tea picking" to describe the production scene of Lianhua Peak tea at that time.

In 1011 AD, Gao Huilian, the governor of Quanzhou, inscribed "Tea Fragrance in the Rock Crack" which still exists today.

The "Bu Lao Pavilion" was built in the first year of Zhengde in the Ming Dynasty (1506 AD).

The name of the pavilion comes from a poem written by Dai Chen in the second year of Xining in the Northern Song Dynasty (AD 1069) (the poem was engraved on a lotus stone), in which there is a line: "A lotus flower never grows old, and it has passed all springs in the world."

Bu Lao Pavilion is commonly known as "Stone Pavilion" because the beams, columns, roof and all components of the pavilion are carved from granite.

Since then, Lotus Peak Tea has been renamed Shiting Green Tea.

During the Daoguang period of the Qing Dynasty, tea cultivation under Lotus Peak became more popular, and more people crossed the sea to make a living in Nan'an. The green stone pavilion gradually became a gift for overseas Chinese to send "good wind". Over time, overseas Chinese became addicted to drinking it. , Subsequently, Shiting Green was sold well in the Southeast Asian islands and even exported to England.

Wanderers are homesick, and the stone pavilion conveys their meaning. Tea, pavilions, and people create a unique tea culture landscape of overseas Chinese.

Nowadays, the ancient town is resplendent with new buildings, but the couplet at the mountain gate remains: "The tea green peaks are green, and the openness has changed the present and the past; the pavilion is high and the lotus is proud, and the universe is the same when drunk."

< p> Song poetry prefers Jianxichun, while Yuan music promotes Wuyi style

Jian tea is named after it is produced in the Jianxi basin.

There are written records of Jiancha in the Southern and Northern Dynasties (479-502). During the Kaiyuan Tianbao period of the Tang Dynasty (713-755), "Kaiyuan Tianbao Legacy" records: "Wang Xiu, a Yiren, lived at the foot of Taibai Mountain. (now in the south of Baoji City, Shaanxi Province), there were many monks and Taoists who came and went. Every winter, they would knock ice from the stream and cook tea in a fine pot, and the guests would drink it. "This shows that the tea making industry has a long history.

Lin Bu of the Northern Song Dynasty wrote in "Jian Tea" that "the stone grinds away the dust, and the frankincense cooks out Jianxi spring."

It is difficult for people to recognize the best tea in the world. Reminiscent of the ancients.

The "Recording Pearl" written by Feng Zhi of the Tang Dynasty states that "Jianren people called tea fighting a tea fight", indicating that the custom of tea fighting among the Fujian people began in the Tang Dynasty.

By the Song Dynasty, Fujian is world-famous for its Beiyuan Tribute Tea and Tea Fighting activities, which created a tea-drinking style of tea fighting and competition, which became popular all over the country. .

"Yong Tea" by Ding Wei (962-1033) of the Northern Song Dynasty; "Engaging in Tea Fighting Songs with Zhang Min" by Fan Zhongyan (989-1052) of the Northern Song Dynasty; written by Cai Xiang of the Song Dynasty (1049-1053) "Tea Records"; Song Zian's "Dongxi Tea Testing Records" (around 1064); Song Dynasty Huang Ru's (around 1075) "Tea Tasting Notes"; Song Dynasty Huizong Zhao Ji's "Daguan Tea Treatise" (around 1107) ”; written by Xiong Fan of the Song Dynasty (1121-25). Xiong Ke added (1158) "Xuanhe Beiyuan Tribute Tea Records"; Song Dynasty Zhao Ruli wrote (1186) "Beiyuan Bielu" and other detailed records and studies of Fujian at that time It is reported that more than half of the tea books of the Song Dynasty record Beiyuan tea, and there are more than a thousand tea poems. > In the Song Dynasty, Wuyi Tea was part of the Jiancha Group. In the sixth year of Dade in the Yuan Dynasty (1302), a baking bureau was established and an imperial tea garden was set up on the banks of the four bends of the Jiuqu River. Five thousand "Dragon Tuan" cakes were made every year.

From then on, a large amount of Wuyi tea was paid tribute separately, and the Yuan Dynasty was at its peak, which lasted for 260 years until the disintegration of the Imperial Tea Garden.

During the Song and Yuan dynasties, Fujian experienced the "dragon and phoenix prosperity". During the heyday of the palace tea culture and the literati tea culture characterized by the "Tea War", the Chinese Royal Tea Garden - the Imperial Tea Garden bred by the Jiuqu River not only represents the historical glory of Wuyi tea, but also symbolizes the role of Fujian tea in Chinese tea. Special status.

The Ming and Qing Dynasties had a heart-to-heart talk, but Xianfeng had no intention of asking Jasmine

When the popularity of tea fighting gradually declined, Fujian tea in the Ming and Qing Dynasties entered a period of innovation, and a variety of teas were created. Tea.

Another glory after the tribute tea and fighting tea in the Song Dynasty

Oolong tea was created in Fujian in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, and "Wuyi Tea" was created by Shi Chaoquan (1625-1711). "Song" and "Anxi Tea Song"; "Wangcaotang Tea Theory" cited in "Xu Jing" by Qing Dynasty Lu Tingcan (1734); "Wuyi Mountain Chronicles" compiled by Qing Dynasty Dong Tiangong (1751) recorded the production technology of oolong tea.

Oolong tea has been loved by people since its advent, and a unique way of drinking Oolong tea has emerged, commonly known as Gongfu tea.

Qing Dynasty Peng Guangdou (1766) "Min Suo Ji", written by Yuan Mei. (also noted in 1786 in the 1780s or later) "Suiyuan Food List", "Reporting to the Fields" written by Liang Zhangju (1845), Shi Hongbao's (1857) "Min Miscellaneous Notes", Xu Ke's "Qing Yu Lei Chao" ; Lian Heng (1878-1936) has records in "Yatang Collected Works"

During this time, oolong tea was also introduced to Taiwan.

It is said that Gongfu black tea was produced in Xianfeng and Qing Dynasties. During the Tongzhi period (1851-1874), the trial production was successful in Tanyang Village, Fu'an. It was shipped to Europe via Guangzhou and was very popular.

After that, a large number of tea merchants came one after another, went to the mountains to seek market, and opened tea shops. Tanyang gathered tea in the surrounding areas, and the reputation of "Tanyang Gongfu" spread like wildfire.

In Fujian, there are also Bailin Gongfu and Zhenghe Gongfu, which are often called the three major Gongfu black teas in Fujian.

The use of jasmine scented tea in Fujian began around the Ming Dynasty.

In the Qing Dynasty, the scenting method was further developed compared to the Ming Dynasty, and a large number of commercial teas began to appear. During the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty (1851-1861), jasmine tea was mass-produced and sold well all over North China.

Around 1890, tea leaves from all over the world were shipped to Fuzhou to scent scented tea, and Fuzhou became the scented tea scenting center.

Innovating tea technology and enriching tea types have become the main theme of this historical period.

At this time, the tea trade became increasingly prosperous, and for a considerable period of time, Wuyi tea (Bohea) became the synonym for Chinese tea.

In the 1980s, Fujian Oolong tea became popular in the Japanese beverage market with its unique charm. It can be said that in the cherry blossom season, it is like Narcissus (referring to: Narcissus tea, etc.), and Oolong traveled eastward to create miracles.

Thousands of years of Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism, eternal landscape tea

Liu Chaoran and Zheng Fengnen recorded in "New Chronicles of Chong'an County" (1940): "Wuyi Tea began in the Tang Dynasty and flourished in During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, it declined in the Ming Dynasty and revived in the Qing Dynasty.

However, Sun Qiao's "Book of Sending Tea and Jiao Xingbu" says: "Fifteen people from the late Gan Dynasty left Zhai Pavilion, and these disciples all took advantage of the thunder. And pick them, worship the water and make peace, build the hometown of Danshan and clear water in Jianyang, the products of the moon stream niche, be careful not to use them cheaply."

The clear water of Danshan is a special feature of Wuyi, and the original design of Chong'an in the Tang Dynasty County, Wuyi still belongs to Jianyang Guyun.

However, there is no doubt that this tea originated from Wuyi.

This is the oldest document on Wuyi tea. /p>

During the Song Dynasty, Fan Zhongyan, Ouyang Xiu, Mei Shengyu, Su Shi, Cai Xiang, Ding Wei, Liu Zihui, Zhu Xi and others spread the word, and Wuyi tea became famous all over the world. Professor Chen Rong, a famous tea expert, once said: "Wuyi tea has become famous all over the world." Tea has gone through the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, and tea-making technology has been constantly innovated, creating famous teas that are well-known both at home and abroad.

It is famous all over the world and has made great contributions to improving the scientific and technological level of my country's tea industry. contribution.”

Wuyi tea culture has a long history of more than a thousand years. It became a tribute to the royal family in the Yuan Dynasty, and imperial tea gardens were established in Wuyi. Tea cultural sites are scattered throughout the Wuyi Mountains.

There are ancient tea gardens from the Tang Dynasty to the Republic of China, the Yulinting kiln site from the Song Dynasty, the Imperial Tea Garden from Dade in the Yuan Dynasty to the Jiajing Period in the Ming Dynasty, the famous Dahongpao Cong from the Ming Dynasty, the place where Pang Gong had tea in the Qing Dynasty, the ancient tea factory from the Ming Dynasty to the Republic of China, and the Qing Tea Administration Notice stone carvings, etc.

Wuyi Mountain is where Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism share the same mountain. The famous historian Professor Cai Shangsi once praised: "Confucius emerged in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, and Zhu Xi emerged in the Southern Song Dynasty.

Ancient Chinese Culture , Mount Tai and Wuyi." In the winter of 1962, Guo Moruo's poem about his visit to Wuyi goes: "Nine clear streams surround Wuyi, the first song of Zhu Xi was sung, the valleys are fragrant and the paths are green, and the mountains are full of square bamboos and the streams are full of green.

Six hundred and sixty-three doubtful Taoist sayings, cliffs and ravines competing for fairy postures, clear waves and light rafts drinking flying feathers, I can't even write poems. "Tea has an indissoluble bond with the three religions. There is harmony in tea, and there is harmony in tea." The "harmony and tranquility" nature of tea is the realm pursued by the three religions. The essence of the three religions' thoughts also enriches the connotation of Wuyi tea culture.

Classical aesthetics believes: "Stone is the bone of heaven and earth; bones are precious and hard, deep and not superficial.

Water is the blood of heaven and earth; blood is precious and flows around. Not stagnant. "Wuyi Mountain is the integration of landscape and stone. It is the quintessence of Chinese classical landscape aesthetics. It has unique natural scenery. The nine curves of "three beautiful waters are as clear as jade" and the "sixty-six strange peaks piercing the sky". The wonderful combination of thirty-six peaks and ninety-nine rocks is different from ordinary natural landscapes. It is an ingenious and exquisite natural landscape garden characterized by its beauty, beauty and tranquility.

Wuyi rock tea and Wuyi Mountain can be regarded as one. "Good mountains and good water produce good tea." Wuyi means "tea is named after the mountain, and the mountain is named after tea."

On the basis of exploring and inheriting the tea-tasting art of past dynasties, today’s Wuyishan people have summarized and sorted out a set of "Wuyi Tea Art". The procedure is as follows: I respectfully invite you to burn incense, purify the air, silk bamboo and sing leaves to entertain guests. The mountain spring is beginning to boil. Meng Chen Mulin Oolong enters the palace and hangs the pot. The spring breeze blows on his face and washes his face again. Ruochen comes out of the jade liquid to rejuvenate. Guan Gong patrols the city. Han Xin orders soldiers. Three dragons protect the cauldron. Appreciate the three colors. I smell the fragrance. First taste the strange tea. Then pour the flowing clouds and sip the nectar. Three pours of stone. I understand the rhyme of the rocks, pour myself a slow drink, offer tea, enjoy tea songs, play with dragons and play in the water, and finish the cup of tea with thanks.

Integrate tea tasting, sightseeing and art appreciation.

Professor Cai Zhenchu ??praised in "The Rhythm of Wuyi Mountain Tea": "Wuyi Mountain - the connection between mountains and rivers and tea in my heart, the eternal tea god in my dreams, and the unparalleled tea charm that flows like beads in my pen."

Wuyi tea culture has become an integral part of Wuyi Mountain’s world natural and cultural heritage.

Tea is the first choice when looking for fragrance, and this is the capital for tea tasting.

Anxi’s tea production can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty.

At the end of the Tang Dynasty, the gate of Langyuanyanyanyu said: "The white tea specialty is priceless, and the stalagmites and solitary peaks are unique." Zhan Dunren (914-979), the magistrate of Kaixian County, left many tea poems .

With the rise of the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the tea garden area reached 31,000 acres in the 30th year of Guangxu, with large-scale exports.

Today it is an oolong tea export base and the hometown of China’s famous tea (oolong tea).

Tea growing, tea making, tea selling, tea tasting, tea competition, etc. almost occupy the life content of tea villagers.

Tea making is scientific and tea tasting is cultural, which is a beautiful landscape of Anxi tea culture today.

Su Shumian described in the article "Daping, I Bless You": In the buildings with red bricks and white walls, bags of baked and packaged "Autumn Fragrance" can be seen everywhere.

What the host brought out was a giant tea tray of blue and white stainless steel, paired with a bronze purple sand teapot and tea cup, which was unique to the tea country.

They followed the custom of "it is not polite to have three cups of wine", and they drank tea and talked and laughed.

The launch of Anxi Tea Art summarizes the tea tasting experience of the ancients and combines it with local tea tasting customs. It is simple and ancient, pure and beautiful. It mainly uses the special tea charm of Tieguanyin as the main tea character to clarify its brewing skills and tea art. spiritual connotation.

The tea art process includes: entering the tea environment, displaying the tea set, cooking the spring water, taking out the teacup from the Yaochi, Guanyin entering the palace, hanging the pot high, spring breeze blowing on the face, brewing the fragrance in the ou, three dragons protecting the tripod, Flowing clouds and flowing water, Guanyin going out to the sea, lighting the water with incense, serving tea to guests, appreciating the color of the soup, smelling the fragrance, and tasting the fragrance to find the charm.

Through tea art, the spiritual pursuit of "purity, elegance, etiquette, and harmony" is conveyed.

There is a tender willow pond with the water just blowing, simple and ancient, pure and beautiful, and the beauty of the spring breeze.

"Aspiration conveys the charm of tea, and writing evokes nostalgia" is the special understanding of tea culture by tea country people.

In Wu Xiaomeng's poem "To Old Father", he wrote: "Rongs of tea gardens climb up the hillside/climb up the forehead/the green permeation/dye the days golden... the green buds on the buds Pekoe / when / quietly climbed up your temples / covered your head." The hard work and persistence of the old tea master are truly integrated into the tea, and when people drink it, they appreciate the fragrance and sweetness.

Gong Fulong, who works in Changkeng Township, wrote: "The Guanyin tea is intoxicating and fragrant. Lu Yu regretted not doing it before. He made great efforts in tea culture and wrote a new chapter in Wulong Yunling." Combining tea, tea culture and tea town Careers are connected.

Su Yulin's "One hundred grams of tea is worth a sky-high price, and a cup of the best is full of incense." Zheng Mengji's "Anxi County is like a poem, like a painting, like dew like a spring Tieguanyin." Anxi Grand View Garden door couplet "Returning intoxicated by the breeze" Guests, the river tea warms my heart." (Anxi was called Qingxi in ancient times).

It all reflects the tea country people’s love for their Fengshan, Lanxi, tea forests, tea masters and tea capital.

Even a place name, Changkeng, also has a couplet, "The tea garden is green with rain and dew, and the pit is an inkstone and the ink is fragrant" (Changkeng Chen Wenxin title), which expresses the tea country people's love and ambition for tea and culture. .

In the tea tasting room of Xiyuan Tea Factory, there is a couplet "Eight boundless soaring horses, asking for the source of clarity at the end of the mountains and rivers". The "Eight Horses" trademark is embedded in the upper couplet, and "Xiyuan" is embedded in the second couplet. The factory name shows that brand culture construction is becoming a new highlight.