When you cross the Riverside Map on Qingming Festival, you will inadvertently see many restaurants, as if there are fine wines and delicacies floating everywhere, setting off prosperity and comfort. People in the Northern Song Dynasty love to eat wine, whether it's more than a hundred generals who are savage heroes, or people like Ouyang Xiu, Su Dongpo and Wang Anshi who make love to the moon. When the wine meets the Northern Song Dynasty, the whole era is drunk, so emotional and poetic. It seems that when you open the Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival, you will be intoxicated by bouts of wine.
This is an era when the government encourages all people to drink alcohol. Whether it's 72 main shops in Tokyo or a pot of muddy wine in the countryside, Song people enjoy the beauty of peace and prosperity between cups. With the opening of the picture scroll of the riverside scene in Qingming Festival, Bianjing City seems to be resurrected. The famous Hongqiao is located on the endless Bianhe River, where boats are reciprocating and ancient willows are staggered. There is a pub named "Wanchi Store" in the south of Hongqiao, which is a crowded restaurant "Sun Zheng Yang Store". Both are restaurants. What's the difference between a real shop and a foot shop? Let's go out of the Riverside Scene at Qingming Festival and go into the Song Dynasty to find out.
Wine floated out of the palace, and Song Taizu Zhao Kuangyin, elegant and somewhat heroic, walked down the Chenzi Hall and finished the day's state affairs. Zhao Kuangyin was very interested and drank with several close ministers. According to Su Shui, Zhao Guoyin once said: "I have a banquet every day, and I am drunk, and I have no regrets if I stay."
Writing here, I can still think of "lifting the war with a glass of wine." A glass of wine has gained the strength of all the military forces in the world. This wine is even too drunk. Even when he was studying to pacify the world, he would go to Zhao Pu's house and eat wine and barbecue in the snow. From the Song Dynasty to the emperor to the common people, everyone likes to drink some wine. After drinking, I squinted at the dim moonlight, and Tan Xing was thick. The national drinking in Song Dynasty was also related to the wine administration system in Song Dynasty.
Brewing requires a lot of food. Although the amount of cultivated land of 5.4 million hectares in the fifth year of Tianxi in the Northern Song Dynasty (102 1 year) was less than that in the period of Tianbao in the Tang Dynasty, the grain production in the Song Dynasty showed a new situation due to the introduction and vigorous promotion of Zhancheng rice. "Song history. "Food Records" records that "in the four years of Dazhong Xiangfu (10 1 1), the emperor took 30,000 tons of rice from Fujian and distributed it to three roads for planting. ..... Compared with China, the panicle length of rice is awnless and the grain difference is smaller, so it is disorderly. Compared with native japonica rice, indica rice variety Zhancheng Rice can not only be planted regardless of fertility, but also has high grain yield and early maturity, which can avoid the threat of early autumn and is very beneficial to popularization. According to Li Yingfa's textual research in "A Survey of Wine Culture in Song Dynasty", at that time, the rice yield per mu in Jiangnan could reach three stones.
During the Northern Song Dynasty, there was a national policy criticized by people: "emphasizing foreign countries and strengthening China", that is, weakening local power and strengthening centralization. This made the Northern Song Dynasty government bear heavy financial pressure since its establishment. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the government continued the "prohibition of alcohol" policy of the five dynasties. For example, during the reign of Song Taizu Jianlong (96 1), the imperial court issued an order: "Those who privately transferred fifteen kilograms to the people died, and those who made wine into the city died in three wars." However, in order to maintain the huge financial expenditure, the court gradually relaxed the policy of "prohibition of alcohol" and brought the wine industry back to the central government to collect taxes. This system of monopoly liquor is called "monopoly liquor".
In the case of drinking, "direct stores" and "foot stores" came into being. The "head office" refers to the shop that has the right to make wine, while the "foot shop" has no right to make wine, and all the wines sold are wholesale from the "head office". "Tokyo Hua Meng Record" said, "There are seventy-two shops in Zheng Jing, and the rest are called foot shops." In the prosperous Song Dynasty, people had reason and conditions to immerse themselves in the flowers and wine of Bianjing. The secret of the success of liquor monopoly in Song Dynasty lies in "grasping the big and releasing the small".
One is to seize the song and put the wine. By calculating the number of koji purchased in the head office, we can judge the turnover and how much profit and tax should be paid every year. At that time, the government set up a special song writing institution, and Duqu Academy was the largest song writing institution in Bianjing City. In the second year of Zheng He (112), in order to improve the enthusiasm of "employees of state-owned enterprises", a shipping assistant named Dong from Jiangsu and Zhejiang was invited to publicize "comparative affairs". What is "comparative service"? For example, an enterprise is divided into several small units, and each small unit is responsible for profits, competing with each other, comparing profits and losses, and then extracting bonuses from profits to encourage them to improve management.
The second is to seize the head office and let go of the foot shop. The imperial court made the foot shop into a branch, franchise store or distributor of the head office, which was equivalent to the store system, saving the imperial court a lot of things. Guancang is a state-owned winery and a wine storage warehouse. Paihu is a restaurant that buys drinks from the official library. The court set goals for the official treasury, such as how much wine must be sold each year and how much profit should be turned over. The official warehouse will then decompose these targets into auctioneers, and according to the ability of auctioneers to sell wine in previous years, it is stipulated how much wine to buy from the official warehouse every year. The liquor monopoly system lasted for more than 100 years, so that there were no fewer than 3,000 shops in Bianjing, and some famous shops appeared. The scene is: "Flower Wine Field, Xiangshan Medicine Sea. Yan Guan Gelou, countless, don't want to be complicated. " Wine became a symbol of the prosperity of the Northern Song Dynasty.
Song people soaked in wine
In addition to the grain wine (rice wine) that was drunk at that time, there were fruit wine, yellow wine and mixed wine at that time. Fruit wine, mainly wine and pear wine. Liquor preparation mainly includes planting >: planting × making flowers into wine and making medicinal materials into wine. Pang, a poet in the Song Dynasty, mentioned two kinds of wine in Wen Chang Miscellanies, one is altar camellia wine, and the other is made by soaking process: "In Beijing, most of your family only uses altar camellia wine because of its unique fragrance, but in recent years, hanging wine with altar camellia is not only rich and lovely." Song dynasty famous wine "
Lu Rui is also brewed from thousands of osmanthus plants in Guilin. Fan Chengda recorded in Gui Yu Zhi Heng. "Wine Records" holds that "drink when you come to Guilin" is the best way to make wine, and it is shocking to the lake. "Flower into the wine, flower lamp gas attacks people, depressed and flying, the poet's elegance, also reflected in the wine to the extreme. Medicinal liquor is made of Chinese herbal medicines, and there are more than a dozen methods of qu liquor included in Nine Classics of Beishan. Almost every kind contains Chinese herbal medicine, and the most can reach 16 flavors.
Song wine is full of beautiful things, and the name of wine is also wonderful and unique. Based on Zhang Nengchen's Wine Record and Wu's Dream in a Dream, we can know that there are more than 280 kinds of famous wines in the Song Dynasty. However, not everyone who loves wine can drink well and can drink heartily. If the alcohol consumption is average, there is a lot of wine at home, and it will not be ruined if it is not finished after the shelf life. During the Yuanfeng period in Song Shenzong, Huangzhou (now Huanggang City, Hubei Province), a forgotten remote place, opened a new history. The mountain people who lost their colors began to have vivid and vivid colors.
During this period, the newly opened Wang Hotel in Bianjing City opened its doors to welcome guests. The gate of Huancai Building is hung high, the gardenia lamp is hung, and the case is filled with exquisite wine vessels. The store is busy with constant guests. Among the many guests, two stood out. They drank silently from morning to afternoon. When the store saw that they were well dressed and didn't like the king's meal, they just wanted to serve wine and didn't dare to disturb their interest in drinking. Over time, the empty wine bowls piled higher and higher, and the guests coming and going next to them were also shocked by these two people. A few hours later, it was getting late. The shopkeeper asked Xiao Er to light a gardenia lamp at the door, and turned around and found that two people who came during the day were still drinking.
Drinking from dawn to dark, they don't change color or get drunk. Two people's good capacity for liquor immediately spread throughout the capital, which is also known as Brewmaster. Who are these two people? Ministers Shi Yannian and Liu Qian. This story is recorded in the History of Song Dynasty: "In the year of comedy, I tried to have a drink with Liu Qianzao's Wang restaurant, but I didn't say a word for a day ... I drank casually and didn't have any wine at night." During the reign of Song Zhenzong, don't be surprised if you walk into the street and see someone drinking in a tree. Maybe it's Shi Yannian. Shi Yannian's word is Man Qing. He is bold and elegant, honest and straightforward. Because of its good capacity for drinking, it is called "stone five fights". Five buckets is equivalent to 100 Jin now. Although this nickname has exaggerated elements, it is enough to show that Shi has a good capacity for drinking.
In addition to drinking, he also changed his drinking style and behaved defiantly. Have the character of Wei and Jin dynasties. "Meng Qian Bi Tan" contains: "Shiman likes drinking. Make friends with Liu Qian in Buyi ... Every time you drink with a guest, you stumble on the machine. This is called "prisoner drinking". Drinking on the raft is called nest wine. Tied with the manuscript, the first drink, and then tied, called turtle drink. Putting wine in the air at night is called drinking. Hiding in Tibet, drinking it in for a while, drinking it out for a while, and hiding it all the time, this is called "ghost wine" and its wild rate is like this. After being scared, there is buddhist nun, where you often lie. On the day you name it, you will find a buddhist nun. Don't get drunk all day. Renzong loves talents and tries to give up drinking. Smell it for a long time, and you will die if you don't drink it. " Shi Yannian's drinking pattern is amazing: sometimes he climbs to the tree to drink, sometimes he wears shackles to drink, and sometimes he hangs a noose in the house. When drinking, he put his head into the lasso and then drew it back after drinking. After Zong Renzong acceded to the throne, he cherished his talents and told his ministers that he hoped he would drink less. Shi Yannian listened to the advice after knowing it, but after giving up drinking, he fell ill and died without drinking. It seems that people in the Northern Song Dynasty like to drink, which is a "brave" era in history. Closing the scroll still reminds people of the prosperity and alienation of the past, which makes people sigh.