The general price of genuine zippo bought in actual stores is around 200-400, and there are also thousands of zippo

Judge authenticity

The hinge of the fake one is fused It’s not good (in other words, it’s shoddy), and the circular concave shape is artificial. The real ZIPPO also has the following characteristics: 1. The bottom of the shell has the year of production and the month. A represents January, B represents February, and so on. 2. The shell The side part~the connection is broken into five strips. 3. There is a circular concave mark on the upper and lower parts of the connection. 4. Remove the casing. The cotton at the bottom of the movement is very thick, about 0.7 cm~ 5. On the flint. The pattern is diamond-shaped ~ 6. The cotton thread of the fire core is wrapped with copper wire ~ this will last longer. PS: The rivets on the movement and the workmanship of the flint seat have a clear contrast between the real and fake ones. Also, the two circular marks on the hinges on the casing are indeed difficult to make exactly the same on imitation machines, and they can also be used as a basis for judgment. The same goes for the workmanship of flint wheels. It is recommended not to focus on the cotton core for identification. The imitation cotton cores sold on the market are actually quite good in terms of quality.

There are many fake Zippo lighters on the market, and there are many ways to identify them.

First of all, look at the appearance. There is a circular concave mark on the upper and lower joints of the real Zippo lighter. The two circular marks on the hinges on the casing are indeed difficult to make exactly the same on imitation machines. , can also be used as a basis for judgment.

Real Zippo has the year of manufacture on the bottom.

From 1932 to 1956, it was written in block letters; from 1957 to 1976, it was written in italics; from 1977 onwards, the trademark shape with a flame pattern was used. In addition, starting in 1957, the base of all ZIPPO lighters has been engraved with a mark representing the year of manufacture to facilitate collectors' identification. Products before this can only be identified by S number or design type.

There are four symbols representing the year of manufacture, namely [·] (used in 1957), [ | ] (used from 1966-1973), [ / ] (used from 1974-1981) and [ \ ] (used from 1982 to 1986). Each mark is used for 8 years. There can be a maximum of 8 of these marks, engraved on the left and right sides of the ZIPPO trademark (ie, a maximum of 4 on each side). And adopt the method of decreasing year by year, at least there is only 1 left.

Starting in 1986, in addition to the year, month symbols were added. The Roman numerals on the right side of the trademark represent the year of manufacture (II stands for 1986, III stands for 1987, and IV stands for 1988); the English letters on the left stand for the month of manufacture (A stands for January, B stands for February, and C stands for March). Among the above characteristics, fake Zippo lighters generally lack or are incomplete, and the printing is also rough. The performance, quality, and appearance are all incomparable to the real Zippo.

In addition, we can also compare the actual use of real and fake Zippo.

First: Look at the flame and heat resistance

When Zippo counterfeit products burn, they emit green smoke, the flame flickers on and off, and the entire fuselage is completely burned within 4 minutes of burning. . A real Zippo lighter will burn until the fuel is exhausted and will not ignite the fuselage. This is because the fake Zippo steel outer cover is too thick and has poor heat dissipation effect; the oil storage cotton core inside the machine is of poor quality and is prone to oil leakage.

Second: Windproof ability

Put the real and fake Zippo 40 cm away from the electric fan and turn the fan to the maximum wind power, but the flame of the real Zippo lighter still cannot be blown out. The fake Zippo lighter was blown out when the electric fan was only turned on at minimum wind power. This is because the windproof wall of real Zippo lighters is high; the design of the ventilation holes is scientific and reasonable; and the special fire core absorbs oil well.

There are many fake Zippo lighters on the market currently, and there are many ways to identify them.

First of all, look at the appearance. The real Zippo lighter has an approximately circular concave mark on the upper and lower joints. The two marks on the pressed hinges on the casing are indeed difficult to achieve on imitation machines, or there may be traces. But the trace is a perfect circle, which can also be used as a basis for judgment.

Real Zippo has the year of manufacture on the bottom.

From 1932 to 1956, it was written in block letters; from 1957 to 1976, it was written in italics; from 1977 onwards, the trademark shape with a flame pattern was used.

In addition, starting from 1957, the base of all ZIPPO lighters has been engraved with a mark representing the year of manufacture to facilitate collectors' identification. Products before this can only be identified by S number or design type.

There are four symbols representing the year of manufacture, namely [·] (used in 1957), [ | ] (used from 1966-1973), [ / ] (used from 1974-1981) and [ \ ] (used from 1982 to 1986). Each mark is used for 8 years. There can be a maximum of 8 of these marks, engraved on the left and right sides of the ZIPPO trademark (that is, a maximum of 4 on each side). And adopt the method of decreasing year by year, at least there is only 1 left.

Starting in 1986, in addition to the year, month symbols were added. The Roman numerals on the right side of the trademark represent the year of manufacture (II stands for 1986, III stands for 1987, and IV stands for 1988); the English letters on the left stand for the month of manufacture (A stands for January, B stands for February, and C stands for March). Among the above characteristics, fake Zippo lighters generally lack or are incomplete, and the printing is also rough. The performance, quality, and appearance cannot be compared with the real Zippo

How to distinguish genuine and fake Zippo

For novices who have just started, it is indeed difficult to identify genuine and fake Zippo machines. Because there are now three, six or nine grades of fake Zippo machines. Those fake machines with relatively rough workmanship can often confuse the kind eyes of newcomers, and newcomers are now exposed to mostly machines produced after 2002, so this post Mainly taking the conventional zippo produced after 2002 as an example, let me introduce to my friends how to identify the authenticity.

1. Packaging: Real machine (product imported to mainland China through Hong Kong Biji Company) Zippo's packaging is exquisitely made. There are four common packagings, one is the cheapest ABS plastic box ( A new plastic box packaging has been launched, which looks more beautiful, but it seems not as convenient as before. Sometimes it takes a long time to open it, which is annoying).

The second is a paper box with a black upper cover and a light yellow bottom cover,

The third is an iron box,

The fourth is a blue velvet box,

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Other special packaging boxes will not be introduced one by one. I want to explain one thing here, that is, the parallel imported machines that you usually buy online or offline are actually the same as genuine machines. Regardless of parallel imports or genuine licensed machines, they are really genuine machines. All are of American origin.

2. Appearance: The real machine has a beautiful appearance and generally has no flaws on the surface. The rivets on the sparkler and cam of the inner tank are white.

The rivets under the sparkler are white. The flint holder is yellow.

The inner diameter of the top of the flint tube at the lower end of the flint wheel is similar to the diameter of the genuine zippo flint. Therefore, after placing the genuine flint, turn the flint wheel left and right, you will find that the flint is in the flint holder. The flint tube does not move very much left and right, and the arc of the upper cover of the genuine product is relatively small;

The inner liner of the fake machine is often faked with the liner of a ready-made domestic machine, usually at the sparkler. The rivets on the spark wheel and cam are yellow. Of course, there are also white rivets that seem to be rare. The rivets on the sparkler and cam on the inner liner of Hong Kong Mingwei and Xin double guns are white. Everyone should pay attention to the fake ones. The flint tube under the fire wheel is mostly white, but now the second-generation new cotton oil lighter launched by a certain domestic cotton oil lighter has also changed this position to the same yellow as zippo. The flint tube at the bottom of the fire wheel The inner diameter of the top is relatively large and is not quite the same as the genuine zippo flint, so after putting in the genuine flint, turn the spark wheel left and right, you will find that the flint moves violently left and right in the flint tube. The upper cover of the fake zippo shell has a higher curvature. Bigger than real. The hinge of the real machine is two wide and three narrow. The conventional hinge has five sections. The first, third, and fifth sections are relatively narrow, and the second and fourth sections are relatively wide.

3. Feel: The feel of real Zippo is generally relatively light, because Zippo is made of special materials, which is something that other imitations cannot do; real Zippo feels very firm when held in the hand. feeling.

4. Sound: Genuine Zippo will make a very light and crisp sound when the lid is opened (except for some products). For fake zippo machines, the sound when opening the lid is generally OK, but the sound when closing the lid is muted. This is because fake zippo machines mostly use domestic inner pots. The small spring piece at the lower end of the inner pot cam of domestic cotton oil lighters is very thin, so the sound is muted. It should be smaller, and sometimes when opening and closing the fake zippo, you will find that it feels very bad and has a sticky feeling, and the opening and closing is not very smooth.

5. Fire: A real Zippo will feel astringent for the first time when it is lit without oil. That is because the flint is new, and the friction of the flint does not create small sparks. , but a cluster of fire, which is one of the reasons why Zippo is said to be instantaneous. After refueling, the fire is basically instant, and the flame is also very stable. The side of a real zippo fire wheel cutting flint has two layers of stripes: the upper stripe is a diagonal line from the upper right to the lower left, and the lower stripe is a diagonal line from the upper left to the lower right. When the two lines intersect, they are striking. The front of the fire wheel is formed into small diamond-shaped blocks.

The right side of the fire wheel has thin stripes that radiate from the center to the periphery and are evenly spaced. There are two types of stripes, one is One is radiating alone, and the other is two radiating side by side. There are two types of rays radiating side by side. One is where the two lines are very close. Sometimes you are not careful. Observation will make you think that it is a thin line,

The other is that the two lines are separated by a certain distance but not too far

(This is the zippo sparkler at this stage, in the past There are also straight grains and twill grains, which we won’t discuss here). Generally, fake machines also have such small fine lines, but these small fine lines are very irregular and vary in thickness, and are not as regular as real machines.

6. Logo: There are product logos on the bottom of the genuine Zippo shell and on the liner. The logo on the bottom of the shell introduces the production time and other information of the product. A genuine zippo represents the month in English from a-l. Anything beyond this range is 100% fake. The bottom of a genuine zippo is marked with the word "zippo" very clearly, and the letter "i" is not a dot but a very thin zippo. The traditional flame pattern has a very clear outline of the flame, while most of the fake ones are very blurry. The bottom of the real phone has the capital bradford,pa. instead of bradford.pa. There is a clear small comma between bardford and pa, not a period, which is very important. Moreover, the four corners at the bottom of the real zippo are not right angles but have a certain arc. Fake ones are generally right angles.

7. Cotton pad: The real Zippo cotton pad is very thick, usually up to 0.7cm thick, and has English fonts printed on both sides.

Open the cotton pad to refuel. You can see it when the time comes. Generally, imitations cannot be made (but now a domestic company that produces cotton oil lighters has also launched a new oil lighter with a very thick bottom cotton pad, which is almost as bad as zippo. Everyone should pay attention when buying). Imitation or fake The cotton pad of the machine is very thin, and the texture of the cotton pad is relatively loose, not as dense as the real machine. There is a small hole of a little more than 1mm on the cotton pad of the real machine. Some friends said that it is oiled from there, but in fact it is for storing spare flints.

8. Liner: The front and back sides of the liner of the real machine are clearly engraved with Zippo product information. Sometimes many friends say that the time engraved on the liner of the Zippo they bought is different from the time engraved on the bottom of the shell. , is it true? This is normal, because the inner liner and outer shell of Zippo are not produced together. In most cases, the difference is just the month.

The inner side of the inner liner of the real machine is very clean and smooth. You can use a mirror to make it brighter. The cotton balls inside are five or six small pieces, not a whole piece of imitation. The real machine has a small gap of about 2.5mm on the left and right sides of the flint tube, but the fake machine has none.

Of course, the Mingwei oil engine produced in Hong Kong is also found in these two locations, but it is very subtle and cannot be seen without careful observation. The metal piece under the sparkler of the real machine is not tightly integrated with the inner tank. There seems to be a distance of about 1mm, and the middle seems to be sealed with some kind of material. Most fake machines are tightly integrated. .

At the same time, the outer edge of the liner at the lower part of the spark wheel has a certain arc, not straight up and down.

Careful friends will also find problems at the bottom of the liner, which is The bottom of the liner is not flat. There is a recessed area of ??about a few millimeters at the bottom of the liner directly below the cam position. As shown in the picture:

The bottom of the flint screw is higher than the bottom of the inner tank by the same height as the thickness of the screw cap.

9. Cam: The cam body of the real machine is very thick and not bright, with a blackish feeling, while most of the cams of the fake machine are very bright and fresh.

There seem to be two types of cams on the real machine, one is relatively complete, and the other is like the lower end of the big head being pinched by something. I learned from foreign websites that it seems to be from 04 The appearance started to change in 2008,

and most of the fake machines are complete.

10. Fire core: The fire core of genuine zippo is very resistant to burning and generally does not turn black. After lighting the fire and closing the lid, you will rarely find any smoke when opening the lid. The fire core of the machine is easy to burn black, and it is easy to emit black smoke when burning. It is estimated that the quality of genuine cotton is different from fake.