Good denim clothing material is very important.

Let’s talk about how to sew a piece of denim clothing, which is also the key to designing denim clothing:

1. Stitching: mostly 2-point single-sided double top-stitching, and 2 It is divided into single top-stitching and 2-side double top-stitching. The sewing thread color is generally khaki (such as contrasting color threads) and there are also color matching threads. Note that it is the fabric color thread after washing. Special process lines such as zigzag lines. Thick hand embroidery thread. Beat dates.

2. Ingredients: Cowboys mostly use I-shaped buttons, four-button buttons, rivets, eyelets, leather tags, metal zippers, etc.

3. Marks: including main mark, size mark, wash mark, flag mark, side mark, etc...

Due to the shrinkage problem of denim, so in denim The masters in the factory are the busiest. Ordinary denim generally has a horizontal shrinkage of 2-3%, while the shrinkage of stretch denim can reach more than 10%. In addition, each roll of denim is different, so the denim masters There are always endless styles...

Generally, there are more casual denim styles, and most of these styles are flat cuts. The key is how to determine the size...

Stretch denim (including Lycra) is in big trouble. This kind of fabric is often used to make women's slim-fitting jackets and close-fitting low-waist jeans. With a shrinkage rate of more than 10%, the styles are always changing. Adjustment, and the most taboo thing about jeans is wrinkles at the front, and the requirement is to be close-fitting. In the past two years, some big brands have introduced three-dimensional tailoring, which is similar to the vertical tailoring we learned. Add more pleats at the knees, or one more face, and more It can effectively enhance the freedom of movement of jeans... And the cutting of denim suits can reflect the skills of a pattern maker, especially if the elasticity is high, it is difficult to make the sleeves flat, wrinkle-free, and beautiful...

Let’s talk about the decorative craftsmanship of denim:

The trend of denim in the past two years has been different from the past. In addition to paying attention to the changing design of washing water, we also attach great importance to the decorative craftsmanship of denim:

1. For denim raw edges, cut the jeans off and trim them with scissors, then add special threads; many big brands also do this...

2. Machine embroidery, including computer machine embroidery pattern design...

3. Hot rhinestones, which are very popular in the Russian market...

4. Appliqué embroidery, hand embroidery , bead embroidery, very craftsmanship design...

5. Glue printing: but be careful, it will feel hard, and the pattern will easily fall off when washed...

6. Very new Technology, which I have only seen recently, is laser: it burns away all the colors of the cloth, revealing the color of the cloth itself, with a rendering effect...

Denim can also be matched with different fabrics. Such as wool, imitation leather, corduroy, thick knitted fabric (fleece cloth, sweatshirt cloth), etc.;

There are many styles that can be made with denim, including five-pocket jeans, denim shirts, and denim jackets , skirts, coats, etc., this is also a place to reflect your creativity and talent...

Common washing methods

1. General washing (GARMENT WASH)

General washing is ordinary washing, which just changes the washing we are familiar with to mechanization. The water temperature is around 60°-90°C, and a certain amount of detergent is added. After about 15 minutes of ordinary washing, the Just add softener to clean water to make the fabric softer, more comfortable, and visually more natural and cleaner. Usually based on the length of washing time and the amount of chemicals used, general washing can be divided into light general washing, general washing and heavy general washing. Usually light general washing lasts about 5 minutes, general washing lasts about 15 minutes, and heavy general washing lasts about 30 minutes (this time is not precise). There is no obvious boundary between these three washing methods.

2. Stone Wash/Stone Wash (STONE WASH)

Stone washing is to add a certain size of pumice stone to the washing water to polish the pumice stone with the clothes, and the water level in the polishing tank is based on the clothes. Do this at a low level of water that is completely saturated so that the pumice stone makes good contact with the clothing. General washing or rinsing can be carried out before stone grinding, or rinsing can be carried out after stone grinding.

According to the different requirements of customers, yellow stone, white stone, AAA stone, artificial stone, rubber balls, etc. can be used for washing to achieve different washing effects. After washing, the cloth surface will appear gray and old, and the clothes will be slightly to severely damaged. .

3. Enzyme WASH (ENZYME WASH)

Enzyme is a kind of cellulase, which can degrade the fiber structure under a certain pH value and temperature, making the cloth surface It can fade and remove hair more gently (producing a "peach skin" effect) and achieve long-lasting softness. Stones can be used together with or in place of stones. If used together with stones, it is usually called ENZYME STONE WASH.

4. SAND WASH

Sand washing uses some alkaline and oxidizing additives to make the clothes have a certain fading effect and a sense of staleness after washing. If it is combined with stone After grinding, a layer of soft frosty white fluff will be produced on the surface of the fabric after washing. Adding some softeners can make the fabric after washing soft and soft, thus improving the comfort of wearing.

(1) Sand washing agent

a) Bulking agent: The bulking agent and concentration, temperature, time, etc. are selected according to the type of fiber, the structure and tightness of the fabric, etc. Puffing conditions: When sand washing pure cotton clothes, an alkaline puffing agent such as soda ash can be used for puffing treatment.

b) Sand detergent: After the clothes are puffed, the fibers are loosened and then rubbed with special sand washing to make the loose surface fibers produce plump and soft fluff. To make the suede full, it is necessary to Choose sand powder of different shapes and hardnesses, such as diamond-shaped sand (to make loose fibers produce fluff), polygonal sand (to make the fluff stand upright), and round sand (to make the fluff full).

c) Softener: Softener used for sand washing. It is required to be soft and waxy, so that the fabric can gain weight and the drape should be significantly improved. Therefore, this type of softener should have a long carbon chain and be cationic, so it can be adsorbed on the fabric to achieve the purpose of weight gain.

(2) Sand washing equipment

Currently, industrial water washing machines are generally used for puffing, sand washing and softening, centrifugal pump dehydrators are used for dehydration, and knitting factory dryers are used for drying. Tumble dryer for drying goose down.

(3) Sand washing process

Cotton clothing can determine the type, dosage, temperature and strength of the puffing agent based on the tissue structure, warp and weft density, yarn count thickness, and twist strength. time, as well as the amount of sand washing powder and softener and the processing temperature and time. Generally speaking, the sand washing effect of yarn fabric is better than that of thread fabric, coarse count yarn is better than high count yarn, low twist is better than high twist, and the floating point is longer are superior to floating point short products.

5. Chemical wash (CHEMICAL WASH)

Chemical wash mainly uses strong alkali additives (NaOH, NaSiO3, etc.) to achieve the purpose of fading. The clothes will have more obvious discoloration after washing. To reduce the stale feeling, adding softener will make the clothes softer and fuller. If stones are added to chemical washing, it is called fossil washing (CHEMICAL STONE WASH), which can enhance the fading and wear effects, making the clothes have a strong sense of distress. Fossil washing combines the effects of chemical washing and stone washing. After washing, it can achieve an imitation and fluffing effect.

6. Rinse (BLEACH WASH)

In order to make the clothes have a white or bright appearance and a soft feel, the clothes need to be rinsed, that is, after ordinary washing with clean water, add Warm to 60°C, add an appropriate amount of bleaching agent according to the depth of the bleaching color, and make the color consistent with the plate within 7-10 minutes. During operation, the direction of adding bleach should be consistent with the direction of the rotating cylinder to prevent the bleach from falling directly on the clothes because it cannot be diluted with water quickly, causing partial bleaching. Before bleaching, the water level in the tank should be slightly higher to facilitate dilution of the bleaching water. After the clothes are bleached, use large (baby) soda (Na2CO3, NaHCO3) to neutralize the residual bleach in the water to completely stop bleaching.

After washing with clean water, add detergent, fluorescent whitening agent, hydrogen peroxide, etc. to the water at 50°C for final washing, neutralizing the PH value, fluorescent whitening, etc., and finally softening.

Rinsing can be divided into oxygen bleaching and chlorine bleaching. Oxygen bleaching uses the oxidation of hydrogen peroxide at a certain pH value and temperature to destroy the dye structure, thereby achieving the purpose of fading and whitening. Generally, the bleached cloth surface will be slightly red. Chlorine bleaching uses the oxidation of sodium hypochlorite to destroy the dye structure, thereby achieving the purpose of fading. Chlorine bleaching has a rough fading effect and is mostly used for rinsing indigo denim. After bleaching the boards, sea waves should be used to neutralize the residual chlorine in the water and clothing to stop the bleaching. After bleaching, stone grinding is performed, which is called BLEACH STONE WASH.

7. DESTROY WASH

After the garments are polished with pumice and treated with additives, a certain degree of damage will occur in certain parts (bones, collar corners, etc.). After washing, the clothes will have a more obvious worn effect.

8. SNOW WASH

Soak the dry pumice with potassium permanganate solution, then polish it directly with the clothes in a special rotating cylinder, and polish the pumice on the clothes on, making potassium permanganate put the friction points