Knowledge about outdoor rock climbing ropes

When you get a rope, you must first look at the label of the rope. Every rope has a label, and the label indicates the most basic information about the rope. Data, and these data are mandatory, and the authenticity of these data is absolutely reliable - because these data are not randomly marked by manufacturers, but are obtained after testing by authoritative certification agencies. This information includes: rope brand, model, specifications, type, first impact force, weight per meter, number of falls, rope length, CE certification, UIAA logo and other information.

Types of power ropes. Power ropes are divided into: single rope, double rope, and paired rope. So how to distinguish these ropes? Let’s take a look at their definitions first:

Single rope:

Single rope is a common type of rope, which is characterized by hanging a rope into a protection point during use. This type of rope is often used when the climbing route is not very twisty. Single ropes are not suitable for multi-stage descents and are mostly used for sport climbing.

?Double rope:

A double rope is composed of a double rope. The leader will tie both ropes to the safety belt at the same time, and the two followers will tie one of the ropes to the safety belt at the same time. The rope is attached to the safety belt. The leader hangs the single-strand rope into the lock to reduce the twists and turns of the route. This kind of rope is mostly used for alpine climbing or long route climbing, and its advantages are more obvious in multi-stage descents. During climbing, when the protection point is not very strong (such as using rock plugs, ice picks, pitons and other protective equipment), it is safe to use double ropes, because the impact force of a single double rope on the protection point when falling is greater than that of a single rope or single rope. The rope should be small. In the event of a rock fall or steep ridge fall, double ropes can provide better protection for climbers. When the climbing route has twists and turns and the impact of a fall needs to be minimized, it is best to hang the double ropes into belay locks.

? Rope pairing:

When using the rope pairing, be sure to hang both ropes into the protection lock at the same time. Both the leader and follower must fasten the double rope to the safety harness at the same time. The advantage of a pair of ropes compared to a single rope is that it is more convenient to descend in multiple stages. The weight of the double rope is lighter than that of the double rope, but it is strictly prohibited to use a single strand.

There are also hiking ropes:

Hiking ropes are not strictly the fourth type of rope and are only suitable for simpler hiking routes. The diameter of the hiking rope should be at least the same as that of a single-strand pair of ropes.

How to choose different types of ropes according to different sports?

1. Multi-stage climbing (rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing)

?Single rope: The climber and belayer are tied to both ends of the rope. The verticality of the route is adjusted by the length of the webbing.

Double rope: The climber and the belayer are tied to both ends of the double rope (if a two-color double rope is used, the leader is tied to the midpoint of the rope). If the protection point is strong (use protective equipment such as expansion nails and glued protection points), you can hang two double ropes into a protection lock at the same time, but you need to use a flat belt to adjust the verticality of the route. If the protection point is not very strong (use ice picks, pitons, rock plugs and other protective equipment), a single double rope must be used to reduce the impact.

Rope pairing: the climber and the belayer are tied to Both ends of the double-stranded rope (if using a two-color rope, the leader should tie at the midpoint of the rope). The verticality of the route is adjusted by the length of the webbing.

?Two climbers:

?Single rope: only applicable to low-difficulty routes. Three climbers are tied to the same rope and remain several meters apart from each other.

Double rope: The leader is tied to one end of two double ropes (if a two-color double rope is used, the leader is tied to the midpoint of the rope), and the two followers are tied to a single double rope. one end of the rope. In France, this climbing technique is called pinnacle or arrowhead.

Matching ropes: Matching ropes are not suitable for "en fleche" climbing. Two climbers cannot be tied to one end of a single pair of ropes.

2. Low-difficulty ice and snow route

The entire route has no technical difficulties and no dangerous falls, but protective ropes must be equipped.

Any type of power rope can be used in this situation:

3. Traveling on the rock ridge

A follower

Single rope: Two climbers are tied to both ends of the single rope.

Double rope: Two climbers are tied to both ends of the double rope (it is not recommended to use a single double rope at this time to prevent sharp stone blades from cutting the rope in the event of a fall).

Pairing ropes: Two climbers are tied to both ends of a double pairing rope.

Two follower climbers

Single rope: The leader is tied to the middle of the rope, and the two follower climbers are tied to both ends of the rope to reduce the impact of the fall. This method is suitable for easier spine routes that do not require climbing in stages.

Double rope: The leader is tied to one end of a double rope, and the two followers are tied to one end of a single double rope. This approach is the same as the previously mentioned "en fleche" climb. It is not recommended that you use single-strand double ropes on the Blade Ridge route to prevent sharp stone blades from cutting the rope in the event of a slip. When traveling on the less difficult edge route using the en fleche method, the three team members must remain alert at all times and observe changes in the terrain at any time.

Roping: Roping is not suitable for en fleche climbing.

Single-stage sport climbing

This method of climbing uses basically the same method as multi-stage climbing. The difference is that when using the upper protection method, you can use a single strand of single rope or a single strand of double rope (pay attention to the rope diameter requirements of the protector).

Railway climbing

Potential energy absorbers are usually used for protection in railway climbing. However, this method is not necessarily safe for novices, because novices who are not proficient in using potential energy absorbers will have safety risks. The best solution at this time is for a skilled lead climber to use a single-strand single rope or a single-strand double rope to protect the follower.