Different brands of clothing have their own development histories, and the list is endless. Here is a list of the development history of ancient Chinese culture:
1. Clothing in the Pre-Qin Period
China's The clothing system first appeared in the Xia and Shang dynasties, and gradually became more complete in the Zhou dynasty, and was included in the scope of "rule by etiquette". The clothes at that time were different according to the identity and status of the wearer. The dress code and hierarchical system of the emperor, concubines, ministers and officials became increasingly strict.
During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, clothing was mainly made of tops and lower skirts. The clothes were made of five primary colors, namely green, red, yellow, white, and black. The clothes were made of secondary colors, which were mixed with the normal colors. Mixed colors. Most of the clothes have small sleeves and the length is usually around the knees. The collar, sleeves and edges of the clothes have patterns of different shapes, and the waist is tied with a strip. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new type of clothing called "deep clothing" appeared, which was a one-piece clothing. The emergence of dark clothes has changed the single style of clothing in the past, so it is deeply loved by people. It is not only used as a blessing and formal dress, but also as a sacrificial dress.
During the Warring States Period, the birth of Hufu broke the old style of clothing. The Hufu, with its short jacket, trousers and leather boots, is good at riding and shooting, and is easy to move around, so it is widely popular in the army.
Shoes in the pre-Qin period mainly include shoes, shoes, boots and other shapes. Among all the shoes, the one is the most valuable. The kings of the Zhou Dynasty wore three colors: white, black and red, which were worn on different occasions. Shoes are high-top casual shoes made of leather; boots come from the Western Regions and were worn by the Hu people when riding horses and archery, and were later gradually adopted by the Han people.
2. Clothing during the Qin and Han Dynasties
During the fifteen years when the Qin Dynasty ruled China, Qin Shihuang collected the carriages, flags, and uniforms of the six countries and created a system of clothing, crowns, and clothing. The clothing of the Qin Dynasty was still one-piece, with wide sleeves and long robes, and the clothing system was strictly prohibited.
The job levels of Han Dynasty clothing are mainly reflected through crowns, hats and ribbons. Different official positions have different crowns. Therefore, the crown system in Han Dynasty costumes is particularly complex, with as many as sixteen types. There was also a strict system for footwear in the Han Dynasty: sacrificial robes were worn, court robes were worn, and clogs were worn when going out. When women get married, they should wear wooden clogs, paint pictures on them, and tie them with colorful belts.
3. Clothing during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
The clothing during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties generally followed the old system of the Qin and Han Dynasties. When the ethnic minorities in the Southern and Northern Dynasties first established their political power, they still dressed according to their own customs. Later, influenced by Han culture, they also began to wear Han costumes.
The clothing of the people of the Central Plains, especially casual clothes and regular clothes, absorbs many of the clothing characteristics of the northern ethnic groups on the original basis, and the forms of the clothes are suitable for the body. In the costumes of the Six Dynasties, men wore robes with low skirts and women wore jackets with double skirts, which were very beautiful. For the costumes of this period, you can refer to scrolls such as "Fu of Luo Shen" and "Biography of Lienu".
The clothing of the Northern Dynasties is characterized by fitted pleated trousers, short robes, and various boots. The clothing is narrow and short, and the skirt waist is slightly raised. Women's clothing was mostly embellished with hairpins, pearls and various flower crowns, which led to the custom-made phoenix crowns in the Song Dynasty. < /p>
The clothes in the early Sui Dynasty were relatively simple. Robes and Hufu were the main costumes at that time. Since Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty, the social atmosphere has changed and the clothing has become increasingly gorgeous. This gorgeous style continued into the Tang Dynasty.
In the early Tang Dynasty, the vehicle and clothing systems all inherited the Sui system. It was not until 621 AD that the order for car uniforms was officially issued, and the crown uniform system began to be established. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's economy and culture. The paintings, sculptures, music, and dances of the Tang Dynasty all absorbed foreign techniques and styles, and adopted an inclusive attitude towards foreign costumes. This makes the costumes of this period shine and have more characteristics of the era. Due to the exchange of Chinese and Western cultures, many novel costumes appeared one after another in the Tang Dynasty. Hufu had a huge influence at this time, especially the emergence of pleated trouser costumes, which transformed the Qin and Han Dynasty costumes such as cross collars, loose coats, and floor-length skirts. They were gradually phased out and replaced by plate collars, tight narrow sleeves, fitted blouses, and slim long skirts. Clothing gradually became more open, emphasizing the beauty of the body, with hanging shawls or beard hats; in addition to high-heeled shoes, small boots also appeared. With the development of fabrics, many thin and soft fabrics were developed, so transparent and multi-layered clothing began to lead the trend.
The most representative clothing features of this period include topless clothing, high waists, shawls, plain clothing, men's clothing, Hu clothing and the so-called "current clothing".
Ladies in the Tang Dynasty mostly wore skirts, with the waist girdle extremely high, even higher than the chest. The most common skirt colors are red, purple, yellow and green, with red being the most popular. The clothes are bare-chested and short, with a wide and long shoulder scarf draped over the shoulders, and high-headed cloud shoes. Women's clothing displays sensuality, notably the use of plain clothing. Mingyi was originally the middle item of the dress and was made of transparent tulle. In the past, it was only worn as underwear, but during the prosperous Tang Dynasty, Mingyi was used as outerwear and became a dress.
Women disguising themselves as men was also one of the clothing characteristics of the Tang Dynasty. Wearing a narrow-sleeved round-neck robe, a belt, and trousers, you can also wear a Hufu or a hat, and you can pretend to be a man; these clothes include wide-sleeved, narrow-sleeved, round-collared, lapels, and black-skinned Liuhe. Boots were a very distinctive piece of clothing at that time.
5. Clothing of the Song Dynasty
In the early days of the Song Dynasty, the clothing system of the late Tang Dynasty was followed. After the new system was issued, the clothing was gradually divided into sacrificial clothing, court clothing, public clothing (also called regular clothing by the Song people), seasonal clothing (clothing given to civil and military courtiers according to the season), military clothing and mourning clothing. Women in the Song Dynasty dressed similarly to women in the Han Dynasty. They were all long and thin, with narrow sleeves, crossed collars, and various long skirts in elegant colors. They usually wore long-sleeved double-breasted jackets outside the clothes, with painted collars and fronts. Embroidering lace is sometimes called "collar wiping". The main characteristics of clothing in the Song Dynasty are freshness, simplicity, nature and elegance.
Women in the Song Dynasty mainly wore skirts, but they also wore trousers. The form of the pants is special. In addition to the close-fitting trousers, there are also multiple layers of trousers. Women in the Song Dynasty had the custom of foot binding, so their skirts were long and did not reach the floor to expose their feet. Women's elbow boots are small and exquisite in shape.
Textiles in the Song Dynasty were very developed, and gold, gold stamping, gilding, painting, and embroidery were widely used on clothing. The texture of the fabric is light and elegant, giving people a sense of beauty.
6. Costumes of the Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties
After the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, Chinese society successively saw the emergence of regimes dominated by ethnic minorities such as the Liao, Xixia, Jin, and Yuan. Although the costumes of these ethnic groups retain part of the Han system, they more reflect the characteristics of ethnic minorities.
The clothing system of the Liao Dynasty was not uniform. The costumes of the Jin Dynasty were not very complete at first. It was not until the Yuan Dynasty that the costumes became increasingly mature and gorgeous. The costumes of the Yuan Dynasty are collectively called robes, and there is not much difference between men and women. They are made of gorgeous gold-woven fabrics and precious furs; however, due to their national nature, they are divided into two types: Mongolian and Han. The typical Mongolian crown dress is a robe with a "gugu crown" as the main part. It has a crossed collar, left lapel, knee length, a long skirt, and soft leather boots. It is the costume worn by the empress and concubine of the Yuan Dynasty. Women's clothing made in the Han Dynasty generally follows the style of the Song Dynasty, with large-sleeved shirts or narrow-sleeved shirts with crossed collars and right lapels. They also often wear long robes with narrow sleeves, pleated skirts, and long trousers. Wearing shoes with shallow soles is a characteristic of the clothing at that time.
7. Clothing during the Ming Dynasty
The Ming Dynasty attached great importance to the rectification and restoration of traditional Han etiquette. First of all, the clothing system of the Yuan Dynasty was abandoned, and then new regulations were made on the clothing system based on the traditional customs of the Han nationality, which were adopted from the Zhou and Han Dynasties and the Tang and Song Dynasties.
Men's clothing in the Ming Dynasty restored the traditional characteristics of the Tang and Song Dynasties, mainly robes and shirts. Court uniforms are still without crowns; civil and military officials wear beamed crowns and red clothes when offering sacrifices; the number of beams on the crown and the ribbon worn distinguish the rank; official uniforms wear robes with coiled collars, right lapels, and sleeves three feet wide, with silk or Made of yarn etc. The colors of the robes are customized: the first to fourth grades use scarlet, the fifth to seventh grades use blue, the eighth to ninth grades use green, and various patterns are embroidered according to the level. Regular clothes are relatively simple and generally consist of a black gauze hat, a collared shirt and a leather belt.
Women in the Ming Dynasty mainly wore shirts, coats, shawls, skirts, etc. Most of the styles of clothes are imitated from the Tang and Song Dynasties, restoring the customs of the Han people. Ordinary Ming Dynasty women's dresses can only be made of purple coarse cloth, and no gold embroidery is allowed. Only light colors such as purple and green can be used for robes, and bright red and yellow are not allowed. Ladies' clothing in the Ming Dynasty can be divided into formal clothes and casual clothes. The formal clothes are loose tops and large-sleeved shirts, while the casual clothes are fit, narrow and slender, and are mainly long coats and skirts. During this period, the use of Yunjian and Bijia (long vest) was the most distinctive. Ladies in the Ming Dynasty advocated narrow and slim-fitting clothing, usually a double-breasted narrow-sleeved blouse and a close-fitting pleated skirt; women in the Ming Dynasty liked to wear bijia as going out clothes, paired with slim trousers or wide-mouthed trousers.
Foot-binding was very popular in the Ming Dynasty and was regarded as a form of beauty.
Most of the clothes are decorated with flowers, and they like purple, green, peach and various light colors. As for scarlet, crow green, yellow, etc., only the royal family can use them.
8. Costumes of the Qing Dynasty
The winter dresses of the empress dowager, empress, imperial concubine, concubine, concubine and concubine are made of gold with sea dragon margins and red woven gold longevity characters. Satin and azurite Longzhuang satin
The costumes of the Qing Dynasty underwent great changes. The clothing of ladies in the Qing Dynasty was mainly based on flag clothing, including: cheongsam, large shirt, coat, wide-mouthed trousers, wide pleated skirt, etc. This type of clothing mostly has a joint collar and right slits. The collar, placket and sleeves are decorated with wide ruffles. The sleeves are short and wide, reaching to the hands; the robe has high slits on the side, and wide-mouthed trousers are worn underneath. Wear flowerpot shoes. Some of the costumes of the Qing Dynasty followed the style of the Ming Dynasty. They used coats and shirts as outerwear, with a close collar and right gusset, short and wide sleeves; a wide pleated skirt was worn underneath, and the skirt was foot long, and wide-mouthed trousers were worn underneath. Embroidered shoes.
The costumes of the Qing Dynasty blended the styles of the Han and Manchu ethnic groups. The long coat with long lapels combined the Manchu high collar, large lapel edge, wide sleeves, and knee-length long coat with the hairstyle and length of the Han people. Skirts, embroidered shoes, and sometimes long jackets have a legacy from the Ming Dynasty. Some coats are waistcoats, in the form of high-collar, sleeveless jackets, with wide edges on the collar, placket, and edges. They are worn under wide-mouthed trousers and pointed-toe embroidered shoes. These are typical clothing styles of the Qing Dynasty.
9. Modern Clothing (Changes from the Westward Wind to the East) - Clothing after the Revolution of 1911
Since Qianlong, Western goods have been increasingly imported into our country, and the foreign raw materials for clothing have greatly attracted people. Domestic women have obviously changed in their clothing and furniture, forming a trend of advocating "new style" and "Western style".
After the Revolution of 1911, the form of uniforms changed drastically, and the clothes and tops worn by officials in the Qing Dynasty were eliminated. The most prominent one was braid cutting. At that time, “cutting” and “leaving” had become the watershed between innovation and conservatism. The pioneers of braid-cutting were officials and intellectuals in the cities, but remote villages still did not accept it easily. Although the bannermen's costumes disappeared at that time, the cheongsam still existed. The "blue cloth coat" among female students was the leading style, and then became increasingly popular.
Due to the emergence of movies, movie stars have become increasingly prominent figures, Shanghai has become the base camp of Chinese women's clothing, and Cantonese clothing and Hong Kong clothing have become a branch of Shanghai clothing. In the early years of the Republic of China, women's lives changed. Under the influence of foreign ideological trends, modern women living in big cities left their boudoirs and rushed into society, joining the film industry, commerce, handicrafts, becoming teachers, dancers and even officials. Because Due to the requirements of this kind of profession, modification and appearance change are inevitable.
Due to the frequent exchanges between cities and the outside world, the styles and materials of clothing change rapidly, while the difference between remote mountainous areas and rural areas is almost 150 years. For example, while women in Shanghai have begun to perm their hair and wear high heels, women in Sanhe County, Hebei still wear crowns from three or four hundred years ago, and have a pair of "three-inch golden lotuses" wrapped around their feet; when the aristocrats in Peking While women were already wearing close-fitting cheongsam, in Gansu there were still the large-embellished rolled-sleeved blouses that were fashionable in Shanghai thirty years ago. In the first year of the Republic of China, the government stipulated the form of formal attire for men and women. Men had formal attire and formal attire. There are two types of formal dresses: day dresses and evening dresses, both of which use black trousers and bow ties. There are two types of formal dresses: Western style and Chinese style. The Chinese style is a long robe and a mandarin jacket. The women's dress is knee-length, with a collar and a double-breasted style. The front and back of the skirt are mirrored, with pleats on both sides and knots at both ends. Urban women wear white gauze on their heads, silk dresses, and white bouquets to hold "civilized" marriages. Farm women still wear red coats and beaded crowns, and ride in red sedans, maintaining the old customs. In the early years of the Republic of China, some areas in Fujian even continued to use the wedding attire of the Ming Dynasty. Women wore corrugated hats or square scarves, shawls and beaded crowns, and men wore top hats with red satin braids or red silk threads. The attire of men and women does not match, and the distance between them and the city is even greater.
After the Northern Expedition, the government stipulated a new uniform system, and men wore Chinese tunic suits and suits. These two styles of clothing are both imported styles and are more commonly used by officials and intellectuals. They choose white in summer and black or dark colors in other seasons. The long robe and mandarin jacket are still a kind of daily attire. Student uniforms with stand-up collars, three pockets and seven buttons are mainly the uniforms of higher education institutions. It is also common to wear robes with waistcoats and vests. In addition, wearing a shirt and trousers or wearing a skirt (a long or short skirt) is a common attire for men and women in the countryside. Women's clothing changed greatly during this period. Some retained the Qing-style partial-breasted clothes and trousers; some imitated Western-style tops and lower skirts; most female students in schools wore large-breasted tops with rounded bottoms, elbow-length shorts with mid-sleeves, and black silk skirts. .
Cheongsam is still the main daily attire for women in society. After the 20th year of the Republic of China, this attire became generally popular again. The general trend of new clothing can be divided into two types. One is the curvy long cheongsam of various plain or printed fabrics, which is characterized by adding stripes, appliques or a small vest and silk scarf on the outside of the garment. The other is A dress style with separate top and bottom skirt.
In the 1930s and 1940s, due to the introduction of foreign goods and the penetration of Western lifestyle customs, women in domestic big cities frequently visited social venues, which changed the social atmosphere. Fitted clothing was the most prominent. Western-style dresses also need to be paired with glasses and watches, and a parasol is held in the hand to look more fashionable and romantic. Ouzhou and Oriental modern fashions are influencing domestic women in terms of short skirts, underwear and colors, and more and more people are imitating them. There are even simple attire imitating the United States. Sports-loving ladies often wear red pleated skirts with silver bells, and use bras instead of old bellybands. body armor around the neck). In addition, dresses (called "Braj" in the Soviet Union in the 1950s) are also relatively common. Tracing its roots, the ancient traditional Chinese clothing style is a jumpsuit with a top and a lower skirt. However, it was introduced again from the West to simplify and facilitate movement. . From the 1920s to the 1940s after the Republic of China, fur coats were still popular in wealthy families, and suede fur coats have been a valuable item of clothing for external use since ancient times. The "end cover" of the Qing Dynasty was also a reverse-furred double-breasted coat. The difference was that it was not a lapel. "Cloak" is a commonly used style of clothing when going out. Wearing this dress is chic and graceful. At that time, this kind of cloak was more popular among upper-class men and elderly women. Although there are only a few types of the above clothing styles, due to our country's large population, vast territory, and large regional differences, the clothing styles in many regions can be selected and varied from several types of clothing styles using different colors, decorations, and raw materials. Come out with more varieties of clothing styles.
Leather shoes, handbags and umbrellas were all brought in by Japanese "oriental girls". This kind of costume appeared in Guangzhou in the late Guangxu period, and was known as the "free women" costume, which represented their open thoughts and behaviors. In the early days of the Republic of China, some people began to engage in "civilized marriages", engage in "civilized undertakings", establish "small families", etc. The modern clothes they wore were called "civilized clothes". The influence of Western clothing on our country was mainly in the post-World War II period. Many Chinese female students studying abroad went to the famous city of Ouzhou to seek spouses, so they brought Eastern decorative arts to the West, and at the same time brought Ouzhou clothing, accessories and cosmetics back to my country. These women naturally became promoters and consumers of foreign goods. who.
The rise of fashion has also promoted the development of children's clothing, forcing the narrow cheongsam and short coat that are not conducive to children's physical development to be changed into new children's clothing suitable for physical development.