Clothing fabric knowledge-fabric identification methods and techniques

We briefly introduce the styling characteristics of fabrics made of different materials and their application in clothing design as follows:

1. Soft fabrics

Soft fabrics are generally more It is light and thin, has good drape, smooth styling lines, and natural stretch of clothing outline. Soft fabrics mainly include knitted fabrics and silk fabrics with loose fabric structures, as well as soft and thin linen fabrics. Soft knitted fabrics often use linear and concise shapes in clothing design to reflect the graceful curves of the human body; silk, linen and other fabrics often use loose and pleated shapes to express the flow of fabric lines.

2. Crisp fabric

Crisp fabric has clear lines and a sense of volume, which can form a plump clothing outline. Commonly used fabrics include cotton, polyester-cotton, corduroy, linen, and various medium-thick wool and chemical fiber fabrics. This type of fabric can be used in designs that highlight the accuracy of clothing shapes, such as suits and suits.

3. Glossy fabric

Glossy fabric has a smooth surface and can reflect light, giving it a shiny feel. Such fabrics include fabrics with a satin weave structure. It is most commonly used in evening wear or stage performance clothing, producing a gorgeous and dazzling strong visual effect. Glossy fabrics have a wide range of styling freedom in dress performances, and can have simple designs or more exaggerated styling methods.

4. Thick and heavy-duty fabrics

Thick and heavy-duty fabrics are thick and scratchy and can produce stable styling effects, including all kinds of thick woolen and quilted fabrics. The fabric has a sense of body expansion and should not be pleated or piled too much. A-shaped and H-shaped shapes are the most appropriate in the design.

5. Transparent fabric

Transparent fabric is light and transparent, with an elegant and mysterious artistic effect. Including cotton, silk, chemical fiber fabrics, etc., such as georgette, satin silk, chemical fiber lace, etc. In order to express the transparency of the fabric, H-shaped and circular cone-shaped designs with natural and full lines are commonly used.

Below, a brief introduction to the characteristics of common clothing fabrics:

1. Cotton cloth

It is the general name for all types of cotton textiles. It is mostly used to make fashionable clothes, casual wear, underwear and shirts. Its advantages are easy to keep warm, soft and close-fitting, hygroscopic and breathable. Its disadvantages are that it is easy to shrink and wrinkle, and it is not very crisp and beautiful in appearance. It must be ironed frequently when wearing it.

2. Linen

It is a kind of cloth made from various hemp plant fibers such as hemp, flax, ramie, jute, sisal, and abaca. It is generally used to make casual wear and work clothes, and is currently used to make ordinary summer clothes. Its advantages are extremely high strength, moisture absorption, thermal conductivity, and excellent air permeability. Its disadvantage is that it is not very comfortable to wear and its appearance is rough and stiff.

3. Silk

It is a general term for various silk fabrics made from silk as raw material. Like cotton, it comes in many varieties with different personalities. It can be used to make a variety of clothing, especially women's clothing. Its advantages are frivolous, fit, soft, smooth, breathable, colorful, shiny, noble and elegant, and comfortable to wear. Its disadvantages are that it wrinkles easily, absorbs easily, is not strong enough, and fades quickly.

4. Woolen

Also called wool, it is a general term for fabrics woven from various types of wool and cashmere. It is usually suitable for making formal and high-end clothing such as dresses, suits, and coats. Its advantages are wrinkle-resistant and wear-resistant, soft to the touch, elegant and crisp, elastic and warm. Its main disadvantage is that it is difficult to wash and is not suitable for making summer clothes.

5. Leather

It is an animal fur fabric that has been tanned. It is mostly used to make fashion and winter clothes. It can be divided into two categories: one is leather, which is leather that has been dehaired. The second is fur, which is processed leather with fur. Its advantage is that it is light, warm, elegant and luxurious. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive and requires high storage and care, so it is not suitable for popularization.

6. Chemical fiber

It is the abbreviation of chemical fiber. It is a fiber textile made from polymer compounds. Usually it is divided into two categories: artificial fiber and synthetic fiber.

Their common advantages are bright colors, soft texture, crisp drape, smoothness and comfort. Their disadvantages are poor wear resistance, heat resistance, hygroscopicity, and air permeability, and they are easily deformed when exposed to heat and easily generate static electricity. Although it can be used to make all kinds of clothing, the overall grade is not high and it is difficult to be elegant.

7. Blended fabric

It is a fabric made by mixing natural fibers and chemical fibers in a certain proportion and can be used to make various clothing. Its advantage is that it not only absorbs the respective advantages of cotton, linen, silk, wool and chemical fibers, but also avoids their respective shortcomings as much as possible, and is relatively low in value, so it is very popular.

The following introduces the nature, characteristics and identification methods of these major categories of clothing fabrics:

Section 1: Identification of Clothing Fabric Components

Identification of Clothing Fabrics The simple method of composition is the combustion method. The method is to pull out a strand of cloth containing warp and weft from the seam of the garment, ignite it with fire, observe the state of the burning flame, smell the smell of the burning cloth, and look at the residue after burning to judge. Whether it matches the fabric composition marked on the clothing durability label to identify the authenticity of the fabric composition.

1. Cotton fiber and linen fiber

Both cotton fiber and linen fiber ignite as soon as the flame is near, burning quickly, with yellow flame and blue smoke. The difference between the smells emitted by the two when burning and the ashes after burning is that cotton emits a paper smell when burned, while hemp emits a grass ash smell after burning. After burning, cotton has very little powdery ash, which is black or gray, while hemp produces a small amount of off-white powdery ashes.

2. Wool fiber and silk

Wool smokes when exposed to fire, foams when burned, burns slowly, and emits the smell of burned hair. The ashes after burning are mostly Glossy black spherical particles that break into pieces when pressed with your fingers. When the silk is exposed to fire, it shrinks into a ball, burns slowly, makes a hissing sound, and emits the smell of burning hair. After burning, it condenses into small dark brown spherical ash, which can be broken into pieces when twisted by hand.

3. Nylon and polyester

Nylon, whose scientific name is polyamide fiber, quickly curls up and melts into a white gel when near the flame. It melts, drips and bubbles in the flame. When burning, There is no flame, and it is difficult to continue burning without the flame. It smells like celery, and the light brown melt is difficult to grind after cooling. Polyester, whose scientific name is polyester fiber, is easy to ignite and shrinks when it is near a flame. When burning, it melts and emits black smoke, showing a yellow flame and emitting an aromatic smell. After burning, the ashes turn into dark brown lumps that can be crushed with your fingers.

IV. Acrylic fiber and polypropylene fiber The pungent smell of roasted meat. After burning, the ashes turn into irregular black lumps that are easily broken by hand. The scientific name of polypropylene is polypropylene fiber. It shrinks when near the flame and is flammable. It burns slowly away from the fire and emits black smoke. The upper end of the flame is yellow and the lower end is blue. It emits the smell of petroleum. After burning, the ashes are hard round light yellow-brown particles, which are easy to twist by hand. broken.

5. Vinylon and vinylon

Vinylon’s scientific name is polyvinyl formal fiber. It is not easy to ignite. It melts and shrinks near the flame. When burning, there is a little flame at the top. When the fibers are all melted into glue, The flame becomes larger, with thick black smoke and a bitter smell. After burning, small black bead-like particles remain, which can be crushed with your fingers. Polyvinyl chloride, whose scientific name is polyvinyl chloride fiber, is difficult to burn and extinguishes as soon as it is removed from the fire. The flame is yellow, with green white smoke at the lower end. It emits a pungent, pungent and sour smell. After burning, the ashes turn into dark brown irregular lumps, which are difficult to crush with fingers.

6. Spandex and fluoronex

The scientific name of spandex is polyurethane fiber. It melts and burns when it is close to the fire. When burning, the flame is blue. When it is away from the fire, it continues to melt and burn, emitting It emits a special pungent odor, and the ashes turn into soft, fluffy black ash after burning. The scientific name of fluoronon is polytetrafluoroethylene fiber, and the ISO organization calls it fluorite fiber. It only melts near the flame, is difficult to ignite, and does not burn. The edge flame is blue-green carbonized, and it decomposes when melted. The gas is toxic, and the melt is hard and round black. beads. Fluoron fibers are commonly used in the textile industry to make high-performance sewing threads.

7. Viscose fiber and cuprammonium fiber

Viscose fiber is flammable, burns very quickly, has a yellow flame, emits the smell of burning paper, has less ash after burning, and is smooth and twisted. Striped light gray or off-white fine powder. Cupro-ammonium fiber, commonly known as tiger kapok, burns when near a flame. It burns quickly. The flame is yellow and emits an ester-sour smell. There are very few ash after burning, only a small amount of gray-black ash.

Section 2 Identification of pure wool fabrics

Pure wool fabrics have a natural and soft color and good warmth retention effect. They are the first choice for making high-end suits and coats. But now there are more and more imitation wool fabrics. With the improvement of textile technology, they have reached a level that is difficult for most customers to identify. However, the color, warmth, and feel are still far behind pure wool fabrics. Here are several ways to identify pure wool fabrics for your reference when choosing clothing and fabrics.

1. Touch feeling. Pure wool fabrics usually feel smooth to the touch, long-haired fabrics feel smooth to the touch along the hair, and tingling when the hair is reversed. Some blended or pure fiber products are not soft enough, and some are too soft and loose, and have a sticky feeling.

2. Look at the color. The color of pure wool fabric is natural and soft, bright and not old-fashioned. In contrast, blended or pure fiber fabrics may have a darker luster or have a shimmery feel.

Three, look at flexibility. Hold the object tightly with your hands, then release it immediately to see the elasticity of the fabric. Pure wool fabrics have a high rebound rate and can quickly return to their original shape, while blended or chemical fiber products have poor wrinkle resistance, and most of them leave obvious wrinkle marks or recover slowly.

4. Identification by combustion method. Take a bunch of yarn and burn it with fire. Pure wool fiber smells like burning hair, and chemical fiber fabric smells like burning plastic. The harder the burned particles are, the more chemical fiber they contain.

5. Single root identification. The hair of all animals has scales when viewed under a microscope. If it is a long-haired fabric, just take a piece of wool and rub it a few times as shown in the picture above, and it will move up or down (in order to master this technique, you can first take a piece of hair and do it) Test), if it is an ordinary fabric, take a piece of yarn, cut two pieces of 2 cm, separate the fibers one by one, and rub them four or five times in the palm of your hand to see if they will move.

Section 3 Woolen Raw Materials

Currently, the animal hair fibers used in woolen fabrics on the market generally include sheep wool, goat hair, camel wool and rabbit hair.

1. Sheep wool

The sweaters, woolen fabrics, felts, etc. that people use most every day are mainly sheep wool that grows densely on sheep. In the knitting industry, sheep wool is used the most, so "wool" has become the abbreviation of sheep wool.

The countries with the largest sheep wool production in the world are Australia, the CIS, New Zealand, Argentina and China. The count and grade of wool are the basis for evaluating the grade and quality of wool. The higher the count, the better the quality. The higher the grade, the worse the quality.

Among sheep wool, "Australian wool" has always been admired by people. It belongs to Merino sheep and is produced in Australia, hence its name. Its wool fibers are thin and long, making it the highest quality breed of sheep. Others such as New Zealand, South America, European countries, the Southern Alps, etc. are raised and enjoy a high reputation in the world.

Shenandoah is also a common variety. Shetland wool was originally called Shetland wool and was named after it was produced in the Shetland Islands of Scotland, England. Since Shenandoah wool is mainly downy and mixed with a lot of coarse hair and velvet hair, this natural mixture of thickness forms the unique characteristics of Shenandoah wool fabric, which is plump and fluffy, soft but not delicate, with good luster and elasticity. Has a rugged style. However, due to the small output of Shenandoah wool and the short supply, the so-called "Shenandoah sweaters" sold on the market are mostly made of New Zealand's semi-fine wool. There are also some sweaters called "Shenandoah wool", which sell for less than a hundred yuan or even tens of yuan each. They are actually products imitating Shenandoah wool style. Some "Shenandoah wool" are spun from a variety of miscellaneous wools. , can only make thick yarn, and the price is cheaper.

There is also lambswool, which is popular with consumers because of its low price. It is actually lambswool, which has a thicker feel and is often made into wool.

2. Goat hair

Goat hair refers to the coarse and dead hair cut from goat hair. Generally speaking, the fine hairs on goat hair are very short and cannot be spun, and the coarse hair can only be used to make brushes, brushes, etc., with the exception of mohair. Mohair is Angora goat hair. It is produced in Angola Province of Turkey, North America and South Asia. It is a high-quality wool fiber with a smooth surface, rarely curled, long and thick, with a soft and strong luster like silk, and excellent With resilience, wear resistance and high strength, it is an ideal raw material for weaving jacquard blankets, plush, smooth wool coats, artificial fur and other high-end fabrics. The mohair sweater hand-knitted with thick stick needles is covered with soft silky mist-like fibers, forming a noble, lively and rugged clothing style that is deeply loved by people. The Zhongwei goat hair in northwest my country also belongs to the mohair category.

However, in the market, some people sell fluffy-style acrylic bulked yarn as "mohair", causing misunderstanding. Such acrylic bulked yarn can only be called "imitation mohair" at best.

3. Alpaca wool

Alpaca wool (ALPACA), also known as "alpaca wool", has fibers up to 20-40 cm long, and is available in white, brown, gray, black, etc. Color, because 90% is produced in Peru, it is also called "Peruvian wool". It has two varieties, one with curly fibers and a silver luster, and the other with straight fibers, less curl and a luster similar to mohair. They are often blended with other fibers and used as high-quality materials for making high-end clothing. Most of the camel wool currently on the market is products from Eastern Europe.

4. Rabbit fur

Rabbit fur is loved by people for its lightness, fineness, softness, strong warmth retention and low price. It is composed of soft down and coarse hair, mainly including ordinary rabbit and Angora rabbit hair, with the latter having the best quality. The difference between rabbit hair and wool is that the fibers are slender and the surface is particularly smooth and easy to identify. Because rabbit hair has low strength and is difficult to spin alone, it is often blended with wool or other fibers to make knitwear and clothing fabrics such as women's tweed and coats.

The concept and logo of pure wool

In the market, people can often see wool products with two logos: "pure wool" or "100%" wool. Some people think that "pure wool" means "pure wool". "Wool" is equal to "100% wool", but it is not. Literally "pure wool" should be 100% wool. But in fact, in the production process, in order to improve the textile properties of the fibers and make the fabrics more durable, some products often add some polyester or nylon non-wool fibers. The amount of addition is clearly stipulated in the national standards. So, we understand. Pure wool products are not 100% wool. Products marked as pure wool have added non-wool fibers within the specified range, so they should be cheaper than 100% wool products.

In short, in order to buy satisfactory woolen textiles in the increasingly prosperous market, in addition to trying to identify them by looking, touching, asking, and comparing, we can also analyze them from the price point. Of course, the safest thing is to continue to increase your understanding of product knowledge.

Identify cashmere, alpaca, and mohair

1. Cashmere

Cashmere is the underlying fine hair from goats. Goats grow on alpine grasslands. For example, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang, Qinghai, Liaoning and other places in my country. my country is the world's largest cashmere producer, with cashmere production accounting for more than half of the world's total, among which cashmere from Inner Mongolia is the top grade. Cashmere fiber is characterized by its fineness and softness. Its fabric feels soft, smooth and waxy, with a soft luster. It is much lighter than wool fabrics of the same thickness, and is mostly suede style. Generally speaking, light-colored cashmere coats are mostly made from white velvet and are of better quality; while dark-colored cashmere coats are mostly made from purple velvet or blue velvet and are of lower quality.

2. Alpaca wool

Alpaca wool comes from an animal called "Alpaca" (also known as "Albaca"), which mainly grows in Peru. Andes Mountains. The Andes Mountains are 4,500 meters above sea level, with a huge temperature difference between day and night, -20 to -18°C at night and 15 to 18°C ??during the day. The sun radiates strongly, the atmosphere is thin, and the wind is freezing. The hair of alpacas living in such a harsh environment is of course able to withstand extreme temperature changes. Alpaca wool not only moisturizes, but also effectively resists solar radiation. Alpaca fiber contains medullary cavities visible under a microscope, so its thermal insulation properties are better than wool, cashmere and mohair.

Section 5: Knowledge of suit fabrics

1. Pure fiber fabrics

1. Pure polyester tweed. The surface is smooth and clean, the strips are clear, the hand feels firm and refreshing, it is easy to wash and dry quickly, and it is easy to fluff after being worn for a long time. Suitable for men and women's spring and autumn clothing.

2. Polyester and viscose tweed (fast bus). Made of 50-65% polyester and 50-35% viscose, it has a strong wool-like feel, a plump and thick feel, good elasticity and low price. Suitable for men's and women's spring and autumn clothing.

3. Knitted pure polyester. The texture is soft, elastic, plump and crisp in appearance, easy to wash and quick to dry. Suitable for men's and women's spring and autumn clothing.

4. Woolen woolen cloth is commonly known as "coarse material". Due to the large difference in raw material quality, the quality of the fabrics is also very different.

5. Where is the coat? There are varieties of colors including flat thick, vertical velvet, smooth wool, and crochet. Rich texture and strong warmth retention properties.

The quality of wool spun from imported wool and first- and second-grade domestic wool is better, with smooth surface, smooth hand feeling and good elasticity. Wool spun from domestic third- and fourth-grade wool feels rough and hard, with rough wool on the surface. Suitable for men's and women's long and short coats.

6. Melton. It is made of imported wool or domestic first-grade wool, mixed with a small amount of worsted short wool. The face is plump, fine, clean and smooth, the body bones are tight and firm, elastic, no balls, no bottom exposed. Suitable for men's and women's clothing and women's coats.

7. Where is the navy? It is woven with first- and second-grade domestic wool and a small amount of worsted short wool. The surface is fine and soft, and feels firm and elastic. Some products have fluffing. The purpose is the same as Melton.

8. Where are the uniforms? It is made of third- and fourth-grade domestic wool mixed with a small amount of worsted wool and short wool. The surface of the fabric is flat, slightly rough to the touch, and has lint, and the bottom is obviously exposed after being worn for a long time, but it is durable and durable. Suitable for uniforms.

9. Flannel. The surface is evenly mixed with gray and white colors, the suede surface has slightly exposed lines, it feels plump, fine, clean and smooth, and it is beautiful and elegant. Suitable for men's and women's spring and autumn clothing.

10. Tweed. Made of grade 1-3 domestic wool mixed with some viscose. The fabric is thick, durable and comes in many colors. Suitable for men's and women's spring and autumn shirts and high-end children's clothing.

2. Blended fabrics

1. Polyester wool tweed. Among them, 55% polyester and 45% wool have a thicker texture, full hand feel, high strength, good fastness, stiffness and good wrinkle resistance. Suitable for autumn and winter clothing.

2. It’s cool. Among them, 55% polyester and 45% wool. The material is thin, but strong and durable. It has the characteristics of smooth, smooth, stiff, anti-wrinkle, anti-shrink, easy to wash and quick-drying. Suitable for spring and summer clothing, not winter clothing.

3. Polyester wool viscose tweed. Made of 40% polyester, 30% wool, and 30% viscose, the fabric has a fine and clean surface, strong wool texture, clear stripes, crisp texture, good fastness, low price, and economical benefits.

3. All-wool fabrics

1. Gabardine. The yarn count is fine, the surface is smooth and clean, the hand is smooth, rich and elastic, and the texture is straight and full. Suitable for sewing suits, tunic suits, and women's tops. The disadvantage is that the knees and buttocks are easily exposed to frequent friction.

2. Serge. The grain is wider, the surface is flatter than gabardine, softer to the touch, and more elastic. It is not as thick and firm as gabardine, and has the same uses as gabardine.

3. Tweed. According to weight, it can be divided into thin tweed (less than 300 grams/meter) and medium-thick tweed (300 to 400 grams/meter). The surface is smooth and smooth, the color is uniform, the elasticity is good, the patterns are clear, and there are many changes. Suitable for making various jackets and suit tops for men and women.

4. What does it taste like? The luster is natural and soft, the surface is flat, the surface is short and fine plush, and the wool feels soft. Suitable for spring and autumn shirts and suits.

5. Fan Liding. The wool yarn is fine, the raw material is good, but the density is thin, and the surface is smooth and light. It feels smooth, has good elasticity, is bright in color and washable. Suitable for summer clothing and winter cotton jacket materials.

6. Pailisi. It has soft luster, good elasticity, smooth hand feel, light and cool, and its fastness is not as good as that of Validin. Most suitable for making all kinds of clothing for men and women in summer.

7. Where are women’s clothes? The yarn count is thin, the structure is loose, the hand feels soft and elastic, and the colors are many and bright. It is often used as women's spring and autumn shirts and cotton-padded jackets.

8. Where is Drikong? It has high density, heavy and soft feel, smooth surface, bright luster and elasticity. Suitable for coats and tunic suits.

Section 7: Knowledge of wool yarn

1. Classification of wool yarn

Wool yarn is generally divided into two types: braided wool yarn (referred to as wool yarn) and knitted wool yarn (referred to as knitted wool yarn) Category, based on the number of strands, special number and use of wool yarn as the standard for differentiation.

Wool yarn: yarn with a number of strands or more (including three strands), but with a special number of 6 or more strands (including 6 strands) is wool yarn.

Knitted velvet: Those with two strands and a special number of 6 or less plies, or those with a single strand as a finished product and specially used for three-purpose knitwear processing, are all knitted velvet.

2. The product number of wool yarn

Braided wool yarn and knitted wool yarn are divided into two categories: woolen yarn and woolen yarn, which are represented by Arabic numerals. When purchasing, the yarn and the number stated on the trademark An Arabic numeral represents: (***4 categories)

0--worsted wool (sometimes omitted)

1--wool wool

< p> 2--worsted knitted wool (this code is sometimes not written)

3--wool knitted wool

The second Arabic numeral represents the product number of the wool that is selected. Types of raw materials, ***10 categories, their codes are:

0--Cashmere or cashmere blended with other fibers.

1--Heterogeneous wool (also called domestic wool, including most domestic wool, the wool fiber and length vary greatly)

2--Homogeneous wool (also called domestic wool) Outer wool, including imported wool and a small amount of domestic wool, has small differences in thickness and length of wool fibers)

　3--Blending of homogeneous wool and viscose fiber

　4-- Blending of homogeneous wool and heterogeneous wool

5--Blending of heterogeneous wool and viscose fiber

6--Blending of homogeneous wool and synthetic fiber

7--Blending of heterogeneous wool and synthetic fibers

8--Pure fibers and their blends

9--Other raw materials.

The synthetic fibers listed above in codes 6, 7, and 8 currently generally refer to acrylic and nylon.

When the first digit is 3, the type of raw material represented by the second digit is:

0--Cashmere or cashmere and other fibers (except nylon) Blending;

1--White Cashmere

2--Green Cashmere