What is "pure new wool" and what are its characteristics?
Sweaters of the International Wool Bureau and pure new wool logo sweaters originally refer to sweaters made of knitted wool or single wool yarn woven from wool. Among sweaters, there are cashmere sweaters, rabbit sweaters, sweaters, camel sweaters and mohair sweaters. These have become the collective name for these woolen goods. Sweaters are made of wool, which is soft and elastic and comfortable to wear. Cashmere sweater is called "cashmere sweater" internationally. Because cashmere is light, warm, soft and smooth, cashmere sweaters are lighter, softer and smoother than sweaters. Both at home and abroad are a kind of expensive wearing goods, but cashmere is more expensive and has poor wear resistance, so it is usually woven with blended yarn of 15% nylon and 85% cashmere, and its wear resistance is about twice as high as that of pure cashmere sweater. Rabbit hair sweater is made of rabbit hair and wool. The surface of rabbit hair sweater has long fluff, which has a special luster and smoothness. However, due to fluffy fur and poor cohesion between fibers, rabbit hair is generally blended with 10% nylon, 30% or 40% rabbit hair and 60% or 50% wool. This blended rabbit wool sweater has soft luster, smooth and soft hand feeling, good thermal insulation performance, and gives full play to the characteristics of rabbit hair and wool. There is also a camel sweater on the market, which uses camel hair that grows on camels. This kind of fiber has high strength, softness and luster, but it is thin and short. The so-called "camel sweater" is generally made of 50% wool and 50% camel hair. Camel sweater has a particularly good warm-keeping effect, which is durable and not easy to pilling. Because camel hair has natural pigments, it is not easy to drift away, so it can only be dyed into primary colors or dark colors. Mohair used in mohair sweaters is also called Angora goat hair. This kind of wool fiber is thick and long, with good elasticity, high strength, white color and special luster, which can be dyed into various bright colors. However, because the fibers are thick and curly, and the cohesion between fibers is poor, it is generally suitable for producing brushed varieties, which can make the fabric surface look rich and fluffy. Long fluff is not only warm, but also decorative. Sweater sweater is a kind of wool knitwear, which is made of fine wool and coarse wool. Its raw materials are wool products of ordinary sheep. Wool is fluffy, soft, warm and elastic. Lightweight and comfortable, elastic, warm, detachable, washable, rewoven and durable. The grey fabric weave of woolen sweater products includes single-sided weave, plain weave, fish scale weave and various color weaves. Identification of sweaters: look at the trademark first. Sweaters produced by regular manufacturers are marked with raw materials and content on the trademarks. If you touch it by hand, the real sweater is soft and elastic, feels warm and has good warmth retention; Fake goods feel rough and hard, have poor elasticity, and have no warmth by hand. It can also be identified by combustion method. The extracted fiber is ignited with a match, which smells like burnt feathers and hair when burning, and the pure wool is broken when pressing ash. When burning, there is no smell of burnt feathers and hair, and it is a chemical fiber that is not easy to crush when ash cakes. You can also do a friction test. Wear a sweater and move on a cotton shirt for a few minutes, then take it off quickly. It is a real sweater, without a "snapping"; There was a click, and even a fake sweater with electrostatic sparks. The arbitration inspection of sweaters can adopt the chemical dissolution method introduced in the first section of this chapter. According to the standard of International Wool Bureau (IWS), the pure new wool is over 95%; Domestic standards require that pure new wool > 93% can be judged as pure woolen sweater. The International Wool Bureau (IWS) is one of the international standardization organizations, established in 1937. The standard of wool fabric has been recognized by the world. 1960 promulgated the "pure wool logo" which has been adopted by more and more countries in the world. All sweaters with the "pure wool" logo must be made of pure new wool, and the technical indicators such as dyeing fastness and pilling of the fabric itself must also meet the standards set by the International Wool Bureau (IWS). "Pure new wool logo" is shown in Figure 2 1. The International Wool Bureau also has a wool blending mark (when wool is blended with natural fibers, the new wool must be more than 50%, and when wool is blended with man-made fibers, the wool content is not less than 60%). It is introduced in 197 1, which is the quality assurance of high proportion wool blended products. The work of the International Wool Bureau in China began at 1980. Today, there are 470 licensed factories for pure wool labels in China, covering 20 provinces, municipalities and autonomous regions. Through inspection, the International Wool Bureau confirmed and published the list of the first batch of "Shops without Fake Pure Wool Products" in China, including 32 most influential shops in major cities in China 10. The International Wool Bureau uses anti-counterfeiting technology to verify the authenticity of the label of pure wool. The new technology is embodied in a 7 mm square film, including laser imaging function. As long as the film is labeled with pure wool logo and photographed with a portable electronic observer, the authenticity can be distinguished. This anti-counterfeiting technology was first used in Chinese mainland and India. The International Wool Bureau teaches skills to licensed manufacturers, retailers and management organizations in China and India, and provides special portable electronic observation instruments to protect consumers' rights and interests and maintain the reputation of pure wool logo. The International Wool Bureau will continue to expand its activities to gradually drive the counterfeiting of pure wool marks out of the main commercial channels.