Jan Kaplicky, a Czech-born famous British architect, went into exile at the age of 31 and later became famous in Britain. In March 27, Jan Kaplicky and his "Future System" Architecture Design Institute won the new Czech National Library Architecture Design Competition. An international judging panel, including top architectural design experts and UNESCO officials, awarded their works the first prize in Prague from more than 4 architectural design schemes from all over the world with almost no objection.
Alan Tye, a famous British royal industrial designer, is the general manager and chief designer of Alan Tye Design Company in Britain, and now he is 6 years old. He is not only a senior architect, but also an industrial designer with more than 2 years of experience in industrial (product) design. He has served as a member of the Design Selection Committee of the British Institute of Industrial Designers, a special adviser on industrial design of the international academic review committee, and a member of the qualification examination group of British industrial designers. In 1986, he was awarded the title of "Royal Industrial Designer", the highest honor of British industrial designers, because of his "special creative design reaching high level and high efficiency". In addition to Britain, 46 newspapers and periodicals in Germany, Denmark, Japan, Australia, Italy, the United States, Finland and some Arab countries have published articles introducing and commenting on Mr. Alan Tye's design works. The concept of "Healthy Industrial Design" (abbreviated as HID) first put forward by him is very influential in Britain, and HID has become the business mark of Alan Tye Design Company.
John Gariano is the most touching romantic legend in fashion-from the clothes he designed, his colorful background to his miraculous fame, all these are like the most wonderful fairy tales. However, he is also a designer who doesn't want to return to the ivory tower, and he doesn't want to be regarded as a designer of clothing manufacturers.
At the spring/summer haute couture collections held in Paris, people always guess in advance what fantastic and uninhibited performances John Gariano, the chief designer from Dior, will bring. After all, in the past, the designer used a 12-meter-high spruce tree to turn the interior of a huge gymnasium in the suburbs of Paris into a fascinating forest. Later, he created a Manhattan-style skyscraper scene in the caluso of the Louvre, which was used to decorate Paris, a conference venue that has always been lackluster, even including trash cans with famous CD trademarks on the side and ramshackle towering chimneys. More famous is Gariano's most successful fashion tea party in the world at the Paris Opera House-part of the colors of English country gardens and part of the amorous feelings of Russian ballet. The most amazing thing is that Gariano occupied the entire Ostritz Railway Station, rented a steam engine train to transport the models back and forth, and turned the whole platform into a Moroccan open-air market. Exotic curtain, extras with fresh mint tea and dark orange gravel floor are dotted among them.
Of course, it's not John Gariano unless it's unexpected! He will also bring the Christian Dior fashion show back to the salon-the show will be held in a single room, and the audience will not exceed 6 at a time. Without the heart-pounding stereo and DJ Jeremy Haley, without the dazzling lights, without the presence of more than 2, media people, without the cameras tracking the most beautiful models in the world and the spotlights shooting at the celebrities in the front row, everything became quiet and restrained. The audience in a circle can see the clothes clearly at close range and hear the slight sound of silk skirts. What is even more unprecedented is that Gariano, who should normally be busy backstage, actually introduced the whole series in person. He stood there, holding a piece of tissue paper and reading nervously, with a shy blush on his face from beginning to end.
Gariano regards surrealism as his source of inspiration: "As Dali and Cocteau know, witty but always romantic." He said that he was "always fascinated by the relationship between Dali and his wife Gallas and the gender dominance between them". Finally, among those who inspired him, he mentioned Ms. Ivanda, the famous surrealist photographer who persuaded her subjects to dress like Greek gods. "She is from Strihan, London." Gariano said. In this typical game between the upper class and the lower class, he brought the whole performance back to reality with a loud noise, only blinked before leaving the room and added, "Just like me." After having lunch in a restaurant near his Paris studio, I asked Gariano if the dramatic effect of his presentation might distract the audience from the clothes, after all, the clothes themselves are really important.
"I know that's not the most important thing," he snapped his fingers. "Some people think I don't have to do this, but that's the background of the whole series and one of my favorite design methods." For Gariano, even the invitation to the press conference-a pair of crimson ballet shoes, a faded love letter or a beautiful bracelet hidden in a Russian doll-is an intrinsic part of the whole performance and needs to be carefully prepared. Even the clothes hangers are very beautiful, and the bright sky-blue letters "John Galliano" are printed on the deep purple velvet. Similarly, the designer changed his appearance with the clothing of each season, from a bluffing pirate to a handsome Don Juan, from an English gentleman in a suit and tie to a Rastafarian with bleached blond hair, all of which contained the message he tried his best to convey.
"The venue is part of the whole story," he explained. "I don't need to hang my name behind the runway to remind people that they know where they are. I often fantasize that I can hold two press conferences at the same time and let people choose which one to watch. Maybe I will do that one day. One is a conventional performance with white lights and a white booth, and the other is completely Gariano-style. I bet everyone will choose a dramatic presentation. No one will go to the usual one. They will feel offended and call it a secondary performance. " Indeed, most of the most expressive images in today's fashion world come from Gariano, which is one of the reasons for choosing him wisely. Some people may argue that it is dangerous for us to take the strange world created by Gariano for granted, and it is even more rude to take it for granted. Therefore, I once again got up the courage to discuss the possibility of this kind of recoil with Gariano, and this time I quoted people's accusation that his clothes were not modern enough.
"What is modernity?" He asked, obviously skeptical. "If you insist on this definition, I believe my design is modern. This is a completely abused word. What does "modernity" mean to most people in this game? GUCCI or PRADA? Their interpretation of modernity also contains historical factors. "
PRADA has always been inspired by the 195s and 196s, while GUCCI reinterpreted the 197s and 198s. Perhaps in this era of minimalism and functional emphasis that we are proud of, Gariano's over-elaborate production seems a little unbalanced. Undeniably, sportswear has never belonged to this unique designer's vocabulary, and pragmatic fashion has never appeared in Gariano's handbook.
"The definition of minimalism itself comes from the 196s." Gariano's press officer rightly pointed out.
"I think only by using today's fabrics, technology and influence to interpret clothing can there be everything modern." Gariano added. You know, when I first used the bias cutting technique, people said,' Oh, that's retro.' At that time, you could only buy the most comfortable clothes at the flea market. Bias cutting is actually the most modern form of elasticity. You cut the fabric diagonally, so you can stretch it even without lycra. Nowadays, everyone is using diagonal cutting, and you can even buy it at Marks & Spencer. "Nowadays, bias-cut dresses have come back into fashion, and the jacket with bias-cut technology has become one of Gariano's greatest contributions to modern fashion. They let women throw off their shackles and liberate their bodies. They are no longer exclusive to slim bodies.
John Gariano, 46, was born in Gibraltar. His father was from Gibraltar and his mother was from Spain. John Carlos Antonio was the name they gave him. " I left Gibraltar when I was six years old, "he told me," so I had a lot of travel experiences. "For example, in order to go to school in Spain, he crossed Tangier in northern Morocco. For Gariano, the searing Mediterranean tendency and preference for exoticism do not come from any fashion textbooks, but from early experiences. " All this-Muslim amphitheater, bazaar, knitwear, carpets, spices, aromatic plants and Mediterranean colors-has created my love for textiles. "
At the age of p>16, Gariano entered East London College, where he met some people more like him and discovered the charm of art.. After graduation, he entered St Martin's Central College, and a star was born.
"I am a good student," Gariano said humbly. "Xie Lidan Banert is my tutor. I study very hard, either staying in the library or sketching endlessly. "He also studied with Stefan Marks and Tommy Nutt. Today, Max has been recognized as the most influential person in British fashion trade. In the evening, Gariano went to the National Theatre as a dressmaker.
Gariano's graduation work series in Saint Martin was called "Abnormal Man", which was one of the greatest moments in the history of fashion in this century. Gariano believes that his inspiration originated when he designed costumes for the National Theatre's play Dandong. They turned their jackets upside down-it was 1984, and deconstruction had not yet appeared in the clothing dictionary-and there were very loose and romantic cicada gauze shirts, which were impeccable even on today's runway. Gariano personally made every detail, from the broken magnifying glass as an accessory to the ribbon sewn into the coat.
"I was totally immersed in this performance, and it completely swallowed me up," Gariano said. "I still like it, and I still like romance, such as using cicada gauze to decorate cobblestone streets. Many things in this series still haunt me today, and of course some things have calmed down. "
Sally Brompton, then fashion editor of The Observer, witnessed Gariano's performance with her own eyes." All the audience fell for it, "she said." His talent is so extraordinary. This is a rare experience, you see something and find that talent shines in it. "
Of course, it takes a price to become the most concerned fashion designer at present. That is, you have to stand in the spotlight before you are ready.
"I feel a great pressure," he admits now. "You have to grow up in public. You make a fool of yourself in front of people, but you still have to keep working. So what? This is also part of a person's growth. "
The appointment of Gariano as a designer of Givenchy should be one of the most sensational publicity schemes in fashion history. There were rumors several months before the official announcement. After the official announcement, the media was so excited that Givenchy made headlines before Gariano designed the first complete suit for the new company.
"I couldn't tell anyone, even my parents," Gariano said. "As long as I told one person, even my best friend, he would tell his good friend. It was scary. "
Shortly after Gariano took office in Givenchy, new rumors came one after another, saying that Alexander McQueen would take over Gariano's current position so that he could transfer to the most prosperous Christian Dior fashion company. At this point, the gossip in the fashion industry is considered to have come to an end.
When interviewed, Gariano wore a short and thick sweater and black jeans, oversized Nike soft sneakers on her feet, a fashionable black beret on her head, and a pair of huge hoop earrings hanging beautifully. He said that one Friday night, nearly a year after taking over as Givenchy, he received a phone call from Mr. Arnold, and his dressing style was exactly the same as today.
"This is really amazing. "Gariano said that he is still immersed in the mood at that time." I almost fell off my chair. I think I must have screwed up in Givenchy. I got a call at 6 o'clock in the afternoon asking me to go to Mr. Arnold's office. I said to myself,' Oh, shit,' because I was unprepared. So when he said let me do the work, I almost fell off the chair. "He laughed and said proudly," Yes! "
Today, Gariano designs 12 clothing collections every year. Dior store is like a large supermarket in Gariano, full of wedding dresses, petticoats, shoes, handbags, and of course cosmetics and perfume. Some time ago, I went to his "supermarket" and found that it was crowded with customers of all ages, queuing up to buy the image created by Gariano. Today, this designer has been sought after by people, or has always been so.
After lunch, I went back to his studio. Gariano took the time to show me around the garden in the front yard. Even here, there are many signs of him. " Look at this little fountain, "he said, pointing." And there, we planted some bulbs. "In the polluted center of Paris, there are lush vegetation, sparkling waterfalls and a beautiful terrace." We want the feeling of A Midsummer Night's Dream. "The designer said.
I asked Gariano how he wanted future generations to remember him, and he replied, "I think he is a romantic". John Gariano is indeed the most touching romantic legend in the fashion world-from the clothes he designed, his colorful background to his miraculous fame, all these are like the most wonderful fairy tales. However, he is also a designer who doesn't want to return to the ivory tower, and he doesn't want to be regarded as a designer of clothing manufacturers. Perhaps because of this, any slight criticism will annoy him.
"I still have a lot of things to do," he said. "There are so many jobs, perfumes, new shops, and I want to design men's wear ..."
It's true.