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The answer to "Miscellaneous Memories of Beijing City"

When I was a child, no matter it was windy or rainy all year round, the sound of hawking in the alley would not stop from morning to night.

Early in the morning they sell breakfast: rice porridge, fried fruits. Then there are the vegetable sellers and flower sellers, who pay attention to singing out all the goods on the basket and use a good voice to attract customers. It's even more lively during the day, as if the department store and the repair industry were separated and all were displayed in front of your door. The hawking sounds at night are also very exciting.

"Here are the wontons - open the pot!" This is a late-night snack specially prepared for latecomers or gamblers, just like glutinous rice balls in the south. In Beijing, it is said that "a shaved head will make your head hot." In fact, the same goes for wonton dumplings. At one end is a series of small drawers, which contain various semi-finished raw materials: skins, stuffings and condiments, and at the other end is a soup pot. When the fire door is opened, the water in the pot boils. The wontons are not only cooked in person, but also eaten and wrapped immediately. Pay attention to the thin skin and large filling.

In terms of shouting, I prefer those selling hard noodle dumplings: the voice is thick and the words are simple, just "hard noodles - dumplings", just announcing what they are selling, without saying anything at all. What to brag about.

But the people who spent the night were not all food sellers, but also chatterbox singers. It was a cold day and I was carrying a heavy gramophone and half a box of records. What is sung is mostly Peking Opera or Dagu. I've also heard a film called "Foreigners Laugh" that doesn't speak or sing. It makes you laugh from beginning to end. I thought to myself, how tiring it is! I hate the Victory Company logo the most: a dog squatting in front of a loudspeaker, listening to a record with its ears cocked. That's just insulting.

At that time, there were often blind people playing cymbals at night, which was probably also percussion music. "Calculate the divination!" I thought to myself: "Why don't you do the calculation for yourself first?" There were also beggars. To this day, I still remember how shrill and moving a beggar's cry was. He uses vibrato almost entirely. First, he raised his voice and shouted, "Okay, sir, too, too." After a while, (as if he was so hungry that he couldn't breathe), he then shouted in a low voice, "There's some leftover rice." - Leftovers - Give me some to eat!"

Naturally, the items sold are different in each season. As soon as spring comes, the sellers of goldfish, large and small, should come out. I like the ones selling toad bones (unformed young frogs) the most. First, I can afford them. I spend one cent and fish them into the bowl. There are about ten of them; secondly, they can still be swallowed after playing with them enough. I've always wondered why they didn't turn into frogs in my belly! As soon as summer comes, sherbet made with watermelon and crushed ice is on the market. It’s time to sell “ripe begonias” in autumn. There are two types of shouts for selling persimmons, the simple and the traditional. Jane's only word was "a big persimmon that drank honey." In fact, it is enough. But at that time, vendors all wanted to show off their voices, so some persimmon sellers not only made up lively lyrics, but also showed off their singing. At the very least, it has to be like the half-spoken, half-sung dialogue in an opera. As soon as winter comes, "Gourd--just dipped" appears. At that time, Beijing was much colder than it is now. When I was in school, my nose and tears would freeze into ice. As long as you have a coin in your pocket, and you hear "roasted sweet potatoes are so hot," you have to buy one. You can put the hot sweet potato in your sleeve to keep warm along the way, and you can take it out and chew it when you get to school.

Selling is actually a kind of oral advertising, so you have to find ways to attract customers. For example, if you are selling a toy made of straw, you will shout: "The little toy is a live show." Some shouts will tell you the making process, such as a kind of food similar to siomai that is often sold in the city, just introduce it. Very comprehensive: "Steam and fry, oil is useless. Noodle buns, zucchini stuffing, steam and fry." There are also simpler ones, such as "braised and fried tofu." Some use A to describe B, such as "chestnut-flavored sweet potato" or "radish is better than pear". "Gourd - Bingtaer" is both concise and vivid. The two words describe the gourd (whether it is hawthorn, water chestnut or yam bean) as crystal clear and pleasant. Those who sell Shanlihong (hawthorn) rely on drama to attract people. "There are only two hangings left." In fact, his body is covered with purple-red fruits strung on strings.

There is still a cry in Beijing today, which is "popsicle - three points!" The tone seemed to be reduced from five points to three points. In fact, it’s one third of a piece. It can be seen that this dramatic art of hawking has not been lost.

Answers from the simultaneous inquiry: "The products hawked are naturally different in the four seasons" and "hawking is actually a kind of oral advertising".