British fashion designer, the "mother of punk" in the fashion industry. Born into a worker's family from northern England. She used to be a prominent figure in punk movement, and her achievements should be attributed to the inspiration and guidance of her second husband, Malcolm McLovin, the founder and agent of the famous British rock band "Sex Gunmen". She gave rock and roll a typical appearance, such as T-shirts, zippers, pornographic slogans, metal chains, etc., which have always influenced it to this day. Together with McLovin, she opened her first clothing store in King's Road, London, called "Rock and Roll", which specializes in selling clothes worn by street teenagers. Later, their store was renamed several times, and they made clothes for rock musicians and punk. Creation and rebellion have always been the center of her life. Because of her promotion, punk culture has a revolutionary influence on high fashion. Because she gave a great blow to French traditional high fashion in a completely negative and rude way, and also won a place for British fashion in the international fashion world, the Queen of England awarded her a gold medal. She is always a revolutionary fashion designer. For many years, he has been regarded as an alternative person in the clothing industry, with wild imagination and bold creativity. Her styles have been incorporated into mainstream design concepts: asymmetric T-shirts, cut and worn raw-edge fabrics, underwear worn outside, tight-fitting clothes under blouses, mini-Clini skirts, tight-fitting long skirts, belted trousers, clogs and sloping high heels. She has influenced generations of designers as well. She has also designed costumes for the movie Leaving Las Vegas, and also for operas "Three pence" and "Village".

Vivienne Westwood is a leader in contemporary British fashion, and she rose in the late 196s. She opened an avant-garde clothing store and offered a scepter against the system, which attracted the attention of the world. Britain always gives people the impression of two extremes: one is the royal image of Britain, which is one-sided; At the other end is a punk with lively body language, with colorful rebellious clothes and hairstyles. Westwood is an unorthodox extreme. She can grasp the spirit of the times and integrate rebellious elements into her works. Her design style has become a representative of Britain, just like the Beatles' music, miniskirts and street fashion. The pretense of sensualism, the casual appearance, the bloody T-shirt and fake knickerbockers, the attitude of not being bound by tradition and absolutely resisting to the end are the important dramas when VIVIENNE WESTWOOD interprets her personal brand, which makes ivienne Westwood the ultimate representative of avant-garde, such as S&; M transformed and flavored clothes, T-shirts printed with spiritual slogans, and LOOK tearing pirate clothes, VivienneWestwood also made clear comments on the 7' s rocking punk and the 8' s neo-romanticism.

Even using the words "decadent", "abnormal" and "deviant" to describe westwood's clothes is never excessive. Because her clothes with different lengths, strangeness and disorganization really surprised the western fashion industry, people can not compliment her masterpiece, but they can't help but be shocked by her unique design ideas. No matter how to praise or belittle westwood's design, people have to admit her rarity. The contribution of eccentric design ideas to today's clothing industry. Her design caters to the fashionable youth in the 198s, especially the young "punk" and "Teddy Boy" in London, which makes westwood's clothing have a world influence. Hayford commented: "She is the most influential designer in Britain in the past ten years, and her design ideas have fundamentally changed our clothing concept." Although her design has not become the dominant fashion industry in Paris, It failed to form a trend, but her influence was mainly in concept. Her design concept not only greatly impacted the traditional fashion world, but also represented the radical younger generation. In a sense, like mary quant in the 196s, she gave this fashion world a violent impact.

westwood came from the south of England. In 1941, she was born in a small place called Dintwister Village. Her father worked in the mechanical workshop of an ice cream factory. Although she was not born rich, her childhood was happy. westwood was smart and excellent at learning, and won numerous scholarships in middle school. Later, her parents scrimped and saved, donated the post office in Harrow Town in the south, and moved her family to the south. Later, when she recalled her thoughts, she said, when I went to Harrow Art School, it was all working-class thoughts. She studied in Harrow Art School for one semester. She studied gold and silver jewelry design. At that time, she dreamed of becoming a teacher. In order to enter a teacher training university, she first went to Kodak factory to earn money, and then went to school to be a teacher. At that time, she thought, "I can be a teacher and paint at the same time."

Soon, she got married and gave birth to a son Benjamin. She liked painting, but didn't like housework. Finally, she divorced her husband. She thought that the reason for the divorce was his laziness. As a teacher, she is not the kind of person that the headmaster likes. Although the students like her very much, she is not good at getting along with her colleagues. So she has to design and make jewelry and sell it on Potobello Street. Through her younger brother, she got to know malm McClellan, who has an important influence on her success. They are like two wandering, swaying and crazy currents. Once they meet, they will produce strong lightning, and the same interests finally bring them together. McClellan became her mentor and partner, while westwood followed him in his growing belief in anarchy.

In p>197, westwood borrowed 1 pounds from his mother and set up a shop in 43 British King Road, London, followed by a garage named "Eden". At first, they sold recordings of swing music and rolling stone music in the 195s. However, westwood's interest was in fashion design. Soon her first clothing series came out, which was inspired by the rebellious spirit of western urban youth. People called it "Teddy Brothers" style, which gained the attention of the society. Her design completely got rid of the traditional clothing characteristics and combined all kinds of unimaginable materials and ways in an almost rude way. It is precisely this bizarre and barren form. Won the applause of decadent young people in the west.

westwood's design idea is the most absurd, bizarre and original in the field of clothing. In the late 197s, leather and rubber were mostly used in her design to make grotesque fashion, and gyro pants expanded like drums. A huge felt hat that had to be wrapped in cloth first; T-shirts made of black leather; Pirate-style crepe clothes with beautiful big trademarks. Even the expensive clothes are intentionally torn into holes or made into "skydiving clothes" with torn strips. In the early 198s, a bold approach was: Underwear is worn outside, even a bra is worn outside a coat, and women's underwear and trousers are worn outside a skirt. She threatens to make all the secrets at home public. Her crazy ideas often make foreign tourists feel creepy. She can even make the sleeves one long and one short, and the sleeves are as long as four feet, tear them into pieces, piece together incongruous colors, and deliberately seize rough sewing threads. All in all, these have become her design means. Design style.

westwood's clothing is exactly what she pursues, which rudely opposes the social politics at that time and resists the traditional stylized clothing. Her clothing often makes the wearer look like a group of victims after the massacre, but also like a martyr who is happy and satisfied mentally. Therefore, westwood is regarded as the most creative and brave designer in London, and her leading idea is "to hell with tradition"! Her crazy ideas are also reflected in the constantly changing store name. In 1971, the store name was "Let it swing!" In 1972, it was changed to "Let's go, too fast to live"; Then she changed it to "Young Dead", changed it to "Sexy" in 1974, and began to deal in rubber and various original materials for "punk". In 1977, she changed it to "rebel". She said, "Our interest is to consider rebellion, and we want to annoy the British ...".

In 198. Just because it is a "fashion shop" completely opposite to a French fashion shop, because everything in her shop is absurd, with crooked stairs, clocks walking backwards, and strange clothes. The first series of "The End of the World" is called "Pirate" series, with trousers with loose crepe edges hanging to the knees and rough printed tops of red, orange and blue. It shows a kind of rough and dissolute spirit. "The end of the world" soon became a sacred place admired by modern young people on the British King Road in London.

In p>1982, her second shop "Nostalgia in Mud" opened, where she distributed all kinds of oils and fats that "punk" young people like to keep their hair upright, colorful and strange cosmetics. westwood's strange clothes inspired the "punk" on the street. Especially the "punk" and "tribesmen" of the British King and hammersmith Palace.

With the "punk" going to the world, westwood's popularity is getting higher and higher. In the spring of 1983, westwood held a fashion show in Paris for the first time. Her series is called "Witch", which is a set of modern clothes that expose the lower abdomen, where there are irregular colored cloth, rough stitches, sloppy rags and. This is an unprecedented "fashion". Although her challenge may not win the attention of the whole society, it has won her worldwide attention.

westwood's main admirers are the youth schools popular in the West in recent years. They are dissatisfied with the status quo, opposed to the government, opposed to tradition, and expressed their extreme dissatisfaction, decadent emotions and mockery of society in their clothes and manners. The "punk" prevailed in the 198s. It is the same as "hippies" and "Teddy buddies" in the past, but it is a different youth genre in clothing. The "registered trademark" of "punk" is Indian Mohist dry hairstyle, with both sides shaved completely and a lock of short hair standing on the top of the head. westwood designed many hair dyeing, hair care and hair setting agents for them, as well as strange makeup paints, cyan, green and green. Clothing is even worse. westwood's clothing just reflects and represents the needs of this young cultural layer. They express their political inclination with strange clothes and unusual hair. At this point, the motives of modern people are no different from those of primitive people. In this regard, westwood said, "Clothing is a way to express everyone. In 1981-82, her so-called neo-romantic style was a tramp-style clothing," which was an original exploration. "I want to find romance in my own way." She threw out a frilly pirate shirt, and put satin on a sweater and underwear to wear on Buffalo ladies' wear, all of which conveyed her unconventional design concept.

In p>1985, when the world was popular with masculine wide-shouldered women's wear, a "new" skirt appeared on the hanger in London market. That is, the 19th-century-style bent skirt introduced by westwood. It seems that this abnormal fashion is hard to win people's welcome, especially today when people are pursuing nature and fit, but this hoop-shaped skirt filled the window for three months after London Fashion Week in October. westwood is the advocate of this skirt style. Of course, she wears jeans under her bow skirt or bubble skirt. She calls this kind of skirt "another classical style" or "the fit mood of the new era". She said, "I never like clothes with big shoulders. That's what Mugler brought." She also said, "Women are powerful, and I don't understand why people want to make them asexual." In fact, Her own designs are often capricious. westwood has won the favor of modern youth by absurd, exaggerated and reneging on her word, and she herself has become the idol of punk youth worship.

Since she exhibited her works in London in 1972, she has established her own unconventional clothing style. In the past three years, she has performed in Paris for five times. Her works have appeared in Italy, Sweden, Norway, Belgium, the Netherlands, France and Japan. There are many followers in Japan, who use the same absurd methods to design clothes that are horribly tight or oversize and loose. She said with pride: "Some people flatter me that my torn, oversized and disfigured design inspired the Japanese. They came to Britain with their cameras on their backs in the early 197s. Japan, like Britain, is. Its development cannot but depend on other cultures. "

The style created by" the end of the world "should be said to be mainly based on their anarchist views. westwood and McClellan supported various schools of youth rebellion, and these schools in turn became the source of inspiration for their designs. They printed the manifesto on T-shirts," Only anarchism is the most beautiful. "In their common career, westwood was a practical designer. Mcclellan is more of an "ideological" and "literal" design and creation. This gentle, elegant and seemingly kind man has lovely curly red hair, but he is a staunch anarchist. He was the founder of the British swing band "Sex Gunmen", and his fanatical thoughts undoubtedly infected and supported westwood. In the demonstration against the Vietnam War, McClellan was arrested. Westwood went to prison voluntarily. They claimed to expose the depravity and hypocrisy of our society. westwood said, "We have shocked our own culture and all superstitions. We are trying to find our true freedom."

How to evaluate westwood's design? The evaluation of her creation is unclear or impatient. She has the creative passion of an artist, but lacks the clear mind of a politician. However, as she firmly believes, culture reflects society, and fashion is an inevitable part of social culture, and her creation represents the so-called "sub-cultural group" of modern society. It is her creative thought that is based on political anarchism and artistic anti-traditional spirit. In the 198s, With "punk" as the palette, she created clothes that are loved by some young people in modern times, so she was once called the mother of "punk". Some strange ideas of westwood always pop up in the first moment, which are usually manifested in twisted stitches, asymmetrical tailoring, unfinished hem and incongruous colors. Her goal is clear: to challenge the traditional idols in the fashion industry. Although she often mentions Chanel, vionnet and Armani with great reverence, her creative achievements are against them. She once called L Ashley, a designer of women's wear who abides by tradition, the worst designer. "She dresses women as children, like poor people or fools hiding in the bedroom."

History has always come from people who are dissatisfied with history. Opposing traditional clothing is not uncommon in the history of clothing in the 2th century. However, like her, she completely denied traditional high fashion and attacked costume aesthetics in an unconventional and rude way. Undoubtedly, she was unique in the 198s, and her influence could not be spread to the fashion world. In 1982, the British magazine The Observer called West.