There are dozens of boats in dozens of bays.
Dozens of boats, dozens of poles?
Dozens of rich people came to move the boat.
……"
The afterglow of the sunset reflected the village, and the smoke curled up into the sky. An old man from northern Shaanxi, wearing a white sheep belly towel and a smooth old sheepskin coat, came back with farm tools and farm work. Someone sang a magnificent Xintianyou on the mountain ridge. The melodious and bold Xintianyou echoed in the barren and ravine yellow land, which could not be dispersed for a long time.
Northern Shaanxi is an old revolutionary base area and the central part of China Loess Plateau, including Yulin City and Yan 'an City in Shaanxi Province. Since ancient times, northern Shaanxi has been a "knotting area" where farming civilization and nomadic civilization blend. A unique cultural personality with Qin and Han culture as the main body and northern grassland culture as a part was formed in northern Shaanxi.
Yulin on the Pearl
In the afternoon, we got on the bus from Xi 'an and went north along the 2 10 national road. After Huangling, it will be dark. The distance from Xi 'an to Yulin is 600 kilometers. The long-distance sleeper bus departs from Xi 'an every afternoon and does not pick up passengers on the way. Arrived in Yulin at dawn the next day. It is convenient and fast to take a sleeper car. You can sleep and rest during the journey, and get up and arrive at your destination without delay. Unlike a long-distance bus, you have to stop and go all the way. When you arrive in Yan 'an, you have to find a hotel to rest for one night, which is an extra day.
After arriving in Suide and Mizhi, the day gradually dawned. Looking out through the window, the loess plateau is criss-crossed, magnificent and desolate, and countless ridges are in different shapes and poses! However, the Wuding River Basin is surrounded by farmland criss-crossing streams, densely covered paddy fields and criss-crossing buildings, which are rows of neat net windbreak belts. The rich and unique frontier fortress culture and picturesque desert customs are unforgettable.
Yulin, called Yuyang in ancient times, is a land of counties and has the reputation of "Little Beijing". Located in the desert and plateau, it faces Hetao in the north and Sanqin in the south. Since the Wuding Northern Expedition for three years, it has been an outpost of the ancient battlefield of China's national war. During Chenghua in the Ming Dynasty, Yulin Wei was established and the Acropolis was built, which became one of the nine important towns of the Great Wall. Now there are expressways in Yulin, connecting Ordos in Inner Mongolia in the north, Shanxi in the east, Ningxia in the west and Guanzhong in the south, which is convenient for travel. It is still a transportation hub and strategic location in northern Shaanxi.
There is Zhenbeitai about 5 kilometers north of the city, which was established in the thirty-fifth year of Wanli in Ming Dynasty (1607) to protect the Mongolian-Chinese trade market. The platform is four stories high, with a perimeter of130m and an area of 5O50. It is the largest and most magnificent wharf along the Great Wall. East of the Great Wall, surrounded by Hongshan Mountain, it controls the north and south throats, locks the main entrance of the Great Wall, and stands on the edge of the Mu Us Desert in Ordos, just like a huge barrier. Climb to the top of the platform and you can see the urban landscape of Yulin.
Not far to the west of Zhenbeitai, there is a scenic spot along the Qingshui River called Hongshixia, which is made of red sandstone, hence the name. The rock walls on both sides are sharp as knives, and the height exceeds10m. The stone carving is a cave with 44 caves. According to the inscription, it was once a famous temple in the Song and Yuan Dynasties, named Hongshan Temple, which was built by the mausoleum of the second king of Xixia. With the change of history, people today call it Hongshi Gorge. There are many ancient inscriptions on the stone wall. For hundreds of years, Hongshixia was once a famous frontier fortress. Many dignitaries and literati come to Yulin, and they must first come here to recite poems and write poems. Occasionally, they carved it on the cliff. Now it is a popular tourist attraction.
In the early 1990s, Yulin was still a county-level city. Yuxi River runs through the middle of the city from north to south. The main street of the city is an old street, with blue brick and stone roads and water. Most of the streets are buildings in Ming and Qing Dynasties. The main road is a street three miles long. There are six pavilions from south to north, namely Wenchang Pavilion, Wanfo Building, Xingming Building, Bell Tower, Kaige Building and Drum Tower. It has the reputation of "the ancient city in the south tower and the famous street on the sixth floor". Backstreets and alleys are quadrangles made of blue bricks. Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty, folk military commanders, border businessmen and craftsmen have gathered, and quadrangles with long streets and short lanes, high walls and low eaves have become places where people from all walks of life live together. Yulin city has wide and flat streets, thick walls, spacious courtyards and paved houses, which are slightly similar to those in Peiping. According to the survey, there are more than 1,000 quadrangles/kloc-0 in Yulin. Unfortunately, the lack of awareness of cultural relics protection has either been demolished or become a miscellaneous hospital.
Erdao Street has not been completely built, and Xisha is still a shanty town. The biggest enterprise in this city is Yulin No.2 Wool Mill. Yulin blankets and wool winter clothes are world-renowned for their high quality and low price. The most famous school is Yulin Middle School, a century-old prestigious school with glorious revolutionary tradition and profound school foundation. It is one of the first batch of 15 provincial key middle schools in Shaanxi Province. The sweetest thing is peach blossom water. It is said that after drinking Pratt & Whitney spring water, women's skin is delicate, their faces are like peach blossoms, and women are beautiful. Peach blossom tofu in Yulin, with its own fragrance, is more delicious than meat. It is said that it can be called hook; The most lively place is outside the south gate and in front of the transportation company in Yulin area. People are buzzing, shouting, shouting and arguing, and bicycles, cars and donkeys are bustling and coming and going.
Yulin, located in the southern edge of Mu Us Sandy Land, is one of the areas with serious land desertification and desertification hazards in China. Geomorphological features are generally bounded by the Great Wall, with sandy beaches on the southern edge of the Mu Us Desert in the north, hilly and gully areas on the Loess Plateau in the south, and beam-shaped hilly areas in the White Mountains in the southwest. In the past, Yulin was covered with yellow sand every spring. "In Liugui Bay, the wind blew and the light was lit during the day, which caused the magpie to die. The donkey fell into the ditch and the millstone turned over the sesame seed cake." Yulin City was forced to move southward three times, and there were several cases of "sand flooding the city wall and emergency demolition". Sandstorms are worse than war disasters and make people in the city feel uneasy.
There is yellow sand on the street, and my feet are weak. Walking in the street, flying yellow sand fell on clothes and poured into shoes and socks, making the whole body uncomfortable. But unlike loess, it is not easy to fall off when touched. I found a bike to ride, and it was hard to ride on the sand. It didn't take long to ride, so I fell over, got up and rode again, and then fell down. In the western suburbs of the city, there is a forest of Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica. Artificially planted Pinus sylvestris var. mongolica forest; In the distance is a rolling yellow sand beam, and the boundless sand sea is dotted with clumps of green Salix psammophila and Artemisia argyi.
Since the late 1950s, the Yulin government and people have made great efforts to build windbreaks, adjust water and sediment, and discharge flood and sediment, and implemented a vast project to transform the desert. Afforestation in the desert hinterland 1 10,000 mu, and four large shelterbelts with a total length 1500km will be built. At present, more than 6 million mu of the city's 8.6 million mu of quicksand has been fixed or semi-fixed, the sand control area is 50 million mu, the afforestation and preservation area is 1.629 million mu, and the vegetation coverage rate of the Mu Us desert has reached 30%. Yulin's forest coverage rate reached 33%, realizing the historic transformation of "people enter the sand and retreat". The improvement of ecological environment has promoted the rapid development of aquaculture, not only improving the living environment, but also improving the investment environment of the whole city. The construction of energy and chemical industry bases has been smoothly promoted, and the regional economy has shown a prosperous scene.
Majiagou, Jia County, a rural area in northern Shaanxi
Out of the south gate, we went to jia county by car. Little sister wrapped in a headscarf, tightly wrapped, turned her head and smiled: "Brother-in-law, it's windy and dusty here." Along Yu Jia Highway, after Qingyun Temple, then along Jia Luhe, after Liuqian River and Fangbeng, I walked for an hour for about 30 kilometers, and finally arrived at Wangjiabian.
Wang Jiagui Town is connected by mountains and rivers, with convenient transportation. According to the central position of six towns, it is a distribution center for agricultural and sideline products. Businessmen have gathered since ancient times, and they are known as the "cabbage heart" in jia county. The Wangjiabian River is flat, collapsed and rich in water resources. Jia Luhe provides convenience for irrigation on both sides. Wangjiabian Middle School is one of the key middle schools in jia county.
We didn't stop at the Wangs' side, but took the shuttle bus to Liuxiang. It is said that it is a shuttle bus from village to village, but it is actually an old jeep. The carriage was full, and there was an old goat. -farmers who went to the nearby market led the sheep to the car. Jeeps travel fast along the mountain road, with black smoke, bumps and dust flying. About half an hour, we got off at Kangyayao Village and walked the rest of the journey.
"The desert is lonely and straight, and the long river falls in yen." Standing on the high mountain in northern Shaanxi, I can see everywhere, with ravines and ridges, and endless hills. The world-famous Yuan Ye is rugged and desolate. In the sand beside the main road, Haloxylon ammodendron, Salix psammophila, Artemisia selengensis and Alhagi are the majority, and the main tree species are Populus euphratica, willow and elm. The gaps between plants in the sand are mottled yellow sand. The wind is blowing, the yellow sand is rolling, I can't open my eyes, and the gravel hits my face numb. Not far from the mountain, there is a small mound, or pier, which is a beacon tower for ancient military use. Most of them were built in the Northern Song Dynasty to resist the invasion of Xixia and Liao. In case of enemy situation, they smoke during the day, light up at night, and connect stations to deliver messages.
On the mountain not far ahead, it is the destination of this trip-Majiagou Village, Liu Guoju Township. The village is not very big, there are only 100 families, and the whole village is surnamed Ma. Majiagou is more than 30 miles away from Liu, but it has something to do with Wangjiabian Town. People also go to the Wangs to catch up with the party. According to "living by water and building by mountains." In principle, people circle caves in sunny places on the southern slope of the Straits. Rows of caves are slightly stepped, but they are also patchwork. One village is Majiagou Primary School, a small courtyard with three holes and a circle of low stone walls. Simple fence doors are almost never locked. Not far from the school is a crude Longwang Temple, and there is a land temple behind the village. Farmers can't live without land, and land can't live without rain. "Every village has a temple and every family has a shrine", which is the characteristic of counties and cities in northern Shaanxi, and Majiagou is no exception.
Cave dwelling is a product of the Loess Plateau and a symbol of farmers in northern Shaanxi. In the past, a farmer worked hard all his life, and his basic wish was to build several caves. Marrying a wife in a kiln is a family business. Men dig in the yellow soil, and women do housework and have children in caves. The caves in the First Hospital are generally built with three or five holes, and the middle kiln is mostly the main kiln. Semi-circular window lattice is pasted with white paper and red colored window grilles. The pots and pans in the kiln are all made of clear oil and egg skins. There are colorful kang covers on the kang, covered with white straw mats and wool felt. Cabinets, boxes and rice bins are placed in an orderly manner. "Rice wine, oil and charcoal fire are sitting around the kang." Men and women in northern Shaanxi live in such a warm cave, cooking at sunrise and resting at sunset, loving men and women, thriving and full of vitality.
There is an unknown river at the bottom of the ditch, with wells and mountain springs beside it, which is cool and sweet. The customs and habits of people in northern Shaanxi are very different from those in Guanzhong. Tourists from home bring their own pickled dates, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds fried with salt water, and then bring bowls of millet porridge. There is no habit of drinking tea here, and tea is not provided to guests. When you are thirsty, pick up the ladle and scoop a ladle into the water tank. Most people in rural areas eat lard, not peppers, less vinegar, and like to eat miscellaneous grains and braised dishes. Pork stewed vermicelli is very popular with everyone.
The hills around the village are all farmers' land. Gu Mi, sorghum, corn, buckwheat and mung bean are mainly planted, and potato and sunflower are the cash crops. Especially suitable for planting potatoes. Sandy soil is loose, sunny, rainy and hot in the same season, and the temperature difference between day and night is large, which is very suitable for the growth and development of potatoes, with an average yield per mu of 1600 kg to 3000 kg. One side of the soil and water support one side. Women in rural areas of northern Shaanxi often say that they can't cook (potatoes) if they are not beautiful. The potato skin produced here is bright and clean, the color is bright and elegant, the meat is big and fat, the texture is delicate and the starch content is high, which is deeply loved by local farmers. Potatoes harvested every autumn are not taken home, but stored in nearby vegetable pits. "I won't lose it, no one will steal it." The wife said. And big red dates. Jia county jujube is known as "the hometown of China jujube" because of its big core, thin skin, thick meat, crisp silk and sweet juice. Every household plants jujube trees in front of the door, beside the stream, or beside the ditch and at the foot of the mountain, which can be seen everywhere. People plant more than a dozen jujube trees when they are in the fields or herding sheep, and every family has more than a dozen acres of jujube orchards.
The Spring Festival in northern Shaanxi has the most annual flavor. Almost every family has a "fire tower", which is lit on New Year's Eve and burns all night, and children also play around it. Every merchant in the street has to set up a fire tower more than ten feet high, and people dance yangko around it. People in northern Shaanxi do yangko just to live a rich life. Every year after the second day of the first month, gongs and drums are not played until the fifteenth day of the first month. Due to the good quality of local coal and the help of firewood, after the fire was lit on the night of the Tenth Five-Year Plan, the flame flashed red in the night sky. Under the leadership of the umbrella head, the yangko team sang and danced around the tower, especially the impromptu performance and duet of the umbrella head, which was very beautiful.
After the Spring Festival, children start to go to school, and all the men in the family have to go out to work. The crops in the field depend on women. After the man left, the woman shouldered the plow alone and drove the donkey up the mountain, sowing in spring, hoeing in summer, harvesting in autumn and storing in winter, year after year. A donkey, a hoe and a woman, on the headland, let the quiet plateau fly in the loess. It is difficult to farm here, and the mountain road is rugged and difficult to walk. It is difficult to do machinery, and it depends on manpower. The hillside is connected with the hillside, and the mound is connected with the mound. There is endless work and endless land. They pick firewood up the mountain, carry water down the river, grind tofu, shuttle between the beams of Huangshan ditch all day, and are busy inside and outside the courtyard all day. They are like bright Shandan flowers on the back of the Loess Plateau, bringing a dazzling and beautiful scenery to the monotonous Loess Plateau.
People here love singing, whether bitter or sweet, whether happy or depressed; "People in northern Shaanxi will travel a few words in the sky and twist a yangko." The wife said. But in daily life, it is not easy to hear. Guan Zhong's Qin opera is broad and broad, giving people a feeling of high-pitched, intense, rough and simple; The folk songs in northern Shaanxi are like the old shochu brewed by the Yellow River. Take a sip and get drunk immediately. Both of them are thin and fat, and each has his own strengths. Xintianyou has the smell of blue sky and loess, as well as a strong human touch in northern Shaanxi. Xintianyou is the sound of nature on the yellow land, and Shandandan was born in the hearts of the people in northern Shaanxi.
"When God closes a door for you, he will definitely open another window for you." In 2005, the state explored Wangjiabian to Majiagou in Huangshaliang, and found that there were abundant rock salt resources underground. With abundant rock salt resources, the state has established Yu Jia Economic and Technological Development Zone at the provincial level. At present, the newly-built Yu Jia Expressway and Shenjia Expressway meet here, and the traffic is very convenient. Yu Jia Economic and Technological Development Zone has settled in 28 enterprises, and there is a busy scene everywhere.
Most of the land is closed to grazing, and the ecological environment in northern Shaanxi is getting better and better. People moved out of Majiagou, where they lived for generations, and circled a new cave on the convenient gauze hat beam; Through the drinking water storage project, the well water at the bottom of the ditch was put into the new residential area, and the cement road also reached the village. The surplus labor liberated from the land went to work in the industrial park at home. At dusk, young students and women who came back from work gathered in the cultural square in the center of the village to dance square dance and dance yangko. People's lives are getting better and better.