in the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes became more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's wear in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and shirt. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the mural on the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is an image of a woman in the Tang Dynasty with a high bun, a bare chest, red silk on her shoulders, a yellow short-sleeved blouse, a long green dress sweeping the floor and a red belt hanging down her waist, thus having a more vivid understanding of "powder chest and a half-hidden suspicion of dark snow" and "wearing a fine grass when sitting, that is, the skirt sweeps away the plum blossoms when walking".
It's not everyone's job to wear a low-cut skirt with a half-exposed chest. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be half-naked, and singers could be half-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary people's homes were not allowed to be half-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dresses in the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern western evening dresses, except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.
The collars of women's dresses in the Tang Dynasty include round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar. Short and long skirts are characterized by a high waist, usually above the waist, and some even tied under the armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling.
"Luo Shan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Silver Goose each has a little". Mei Dai won the color of day lily, and the red skirt envied pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for beauty, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not a patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed with pomegranate flowers everywhere.
Perhaps influenced by the theory of Yin-Yang and Five Elements, Yang Guifei likes the yellow skirt best, which is a symbol of status.
The "slow-coming, half-revealing skirt" reflects the degree of social openness at that time.
social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. It is an important factor that affects social fashion and clothing. Clothing is a barometer of social and political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, especially during Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, when the political climate was relaxed and people lived and worked in peace. Chang 'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the center of politics, economy and culture at that time, and also the center of cultural exchanges between the East and the West. In the ancient city of Xi 'an, the morning bell of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke of the thatched cottage, the wind and snow of the willow, the evening photos of Mount Li, the sacred palm of Huayue and the stone carvings of the forest of steles still seem to be lingering with the sound of the flourishing Tang Dynasty. There used to be more than 3 countries that had friendly exchanges with ZF in the Tang Dynasty. The splendid China culture spread to all parts of the world through them. Today, some countries in East Asia still regard the costumes of the Tang Dynasty as formal dresses, which shows the long-lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang 'an and also spread the seeds of their culture in Qinchuan, 8 miles away. Painting, sculpture, music, dance and other arts in the Tang Dynasty attracted foreign skills and styles. The eclecticism of foreign clothes and costumes makes the exotic costumes of the Tang Dynasty more colorful and dazzling.
Due to the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Western Regions and Tubo were eclectic, so "muddy hat" and "fashionable makeup" became popular. This is the third great change in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. Different from the previous two major changes in clothing, this time the clothing exchange is moving from north to south to east.
[ Edit this paragraph] Tang Dynasty costume patterns
Tang Dynasty costume patterns have changed the previous creative thinking that was endowed by god, and used real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns have not been excluded, which is also determined by the influence of the imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns, and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful on the soft clothing of silks and yarns. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luo Shan's leaves and leaves are heavily embroidered, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix and silver geese, each dancing in two directions, which is among the words" Long live peace. " Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the precious image materials that painters have preserved for future generations with hard work in Dunhuang Grottoes. The development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty is the overall development. At this time, the design of costume patterns tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is illustrated by the performance of shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyles, makeup and jewelry.
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of dress design in Zhou Dynasty, the stretch in Warring States Period, the lightness of Han Dynasty and the elegance in Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, which made the dress and dress patterns reach the peak in history. The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch-bound patterns in modern clothing patterns shows the implication of the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.
Big Sleeve Shirt-"The Picture of Zanhua Ladies" depicts aristocratic women walking in the court to pick flowers and catch butterflies. The costumes of the characters in the picture are different from other portraits of the Tang Dynasty, such as wearing extra-large flowers and transparent gauze clothes, which are rare and novel costumes. According to the literature, this kind of dress should be the style of the middle and late Tang Dynasty, and it has been spread to the Five Dynasties. It is a characteristic of Tang Dynasty's clothing to use sarro as the material of women's clothing. In particular, it is pioneering to wear only veils without underwear.
women's clothing in the middle and late Tang dynasty-wide sleeve double-breasted shirt, long skirt and silk. This is a noble costume in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, and it is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending a ceremony and getting married. Wearing this kind of dress, there are golden flowers on the hair, so it is also called "fine hairpin gift dress".
Let's look at the folk arts and crafts of the Tang Dynasty, the silk man.
Half-arm wearing of the skirt-half-arm clothing appeared as early as the early Tang Dynasty; Not only is it popular in the Central Plains, but women in the northwest also like to wear a half-arm skirt. The half-arm is a kind of clothing that comes from the short-arm extension, and it is usually worn with a pair of lapels and tied on the chest. There are also a few "pullover" styles, which are worn from the top down, with a wide neckline and a flat chest. The hem of the half arm can be exposed, or it can be tied inside the skirt waist like a short reed. Judging from the murals and pottery maids handed down from ancient times, wearing this kind of clothing must be lined with underwear (such as short bamboo slips), rather than using
Hu clothes alone-popular in Kaiyuan and Tianbao years. It is characterized by lapels, lapels, narrow sleeves and brocade edges. The murals unearthed from Wei Dong Tomb in Xi 'an and Li Xianhui Tomb in Ganxian County are reflected in a large number of pottery servants. There are also women wearing such costumes in the silk paintings unearthed in Astana, Turpan, Xinjiang. At the same time, there are also accounting words unearthed in the second year of the birth (AD 713) and the second year of Kaiyuan (AD 714), which can be inferred that the Tang Dynasty was indeed the era when Hu Fu was popular.
[ Edit this paragraph] The development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty
The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns have been widely used in craft decoration, and their composition is lively and free, dense and symmetrical, plump and round. In particular, the combination of wavy continuous patterns with flowers and plants is the popular branch-binding pattern in Tang Dynasty.
The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the previous creative thinking that was endowed by nature, and used real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not excluded, which was also determined by the influence of the imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns, and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful on the soft clothing of silks and yarns. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luo Shan's leaves and leaves are heavily embroidered, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix and silver geese, each dancing in two directions, which is among the words" Long live peace. " Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the precious image materials that painters have preserved for future generations with hard work in Dunhuang Grottoes. The development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty is the overall development. At this time, the design of costume patterns tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is illustrated by the performance of shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyles, makeup and jewelry.
In the Tang Dynasty, the styles of costumes and hairstyles are rich and colorful, and the patterns include phoenix patterns and peony patterns. Some hairstyles show moire imprint, which is the embodiment of moire development and change. Judging from the style of shoes, the upturned round toe shoes prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, with exquisite workmanship, and even straw sandals were exquisite in craftsmanship. The silk shoes are embroidered with tiger's head, which is similar to the tiger's head shoes worn by children in Shandong, but the toe of the tiger's head shoes worn by rural children in Shandong is not so upturned. There are similarities between the styles of men's shoes and modern shoes, which shows that the development of shoes has reached its peak at that time. Looking at the costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty, we can know that:
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of the costume pattern design in the Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of the Warring States period, the lightness of the Han Dynasty and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the costume and costume pattern reach the peak in history; The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch-bound patterns in modern clothing patterns shows the implication of the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.
[ Edit this paragraph] Women's Clothing in Tang Dynasty
If the theme of men's clothing in ancient China is practicality and solemnity, then the style of women's clothing is romantic and colorful, and women's clothing in Tang Dynasty is the most beautiful chapter.
the Tang dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with prosperous economy, developed culture, frequent foreign exchanges and open world customs. Coupled with the influence of foreign ethnic minorities, women in the Tang Dynasty were less bound. In this unique era environment and social atmosphere, women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty, with its numerous styles, gorgeous colors, innovative decorative techniques and elegant and gorgeous styles, has become one of the important symbols of Tang Wenhua.
women's clothing in Tang dynasty can be divided into skirts, crowns and shoes. According to the Tang system, there are four kinds of women's clothes, namely, court clothes, public clothes, sacrificial clothes and regular clothes. The first three types are large and small dresses worn by empresses in official occasions such as court meetings and sacrifices, while the latter is for daily use. In the Tang dynasty, women's uniforms were basically shirts and draperies on the upper body, skirts on the lower body and silks on the shoulders. The shirt is single-sleeved, with wadding, only as short as the waist. Skirts are long and many. In addition, there are coats, half-arms, and shirts. The coat is a jacket, which is longer than the jacket and shorter than the robe. Half-arm is a short-sleeved bodice, which is worn outside the shirt and popular in the early Tang Dynasty. A blouse is a short and easy-to-take-off gown worn by women when they are singing and dancing. Its dresses are colorful, with red, green, purple and yellow being the most popular, such as "the red dress is jealous of pomegranate flowers", "the lotus-root silk skirt" and "the waist-bending and multi-dancing Yujin skirt", etc., and there are many weaves and embroideries on shirts, rafts, jackets and skirts, as described in the Tang Dynasty: "Newly embroidered Luo" There are silk, cotton cloth, kudzu, hemp, wool and so on, and silk is the most commonly used.
In addition, "fashionable makeup", topless clothes, men's clothes and Hu clothes are also important clothes. "Contemporary makeup", that is, fashion, women's clothes in the early Tang Dynasty were small sleeve's narrow clothes, with a half-arm, silk around the shoulders, and a tight dress tied to the chest, with a simple style; In the prosperous Tang dynasty, the dress gradually widened, the skirt waist moved down, and the clothes were gorgeous; In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, dresses became wider and fatter day by day, and women often praised them for their wide robes and sleeves, and their colors were gorgeous. Naked collar clothes, men's clothes, military clothes and Hu clothes were widely popular among women in the Tang Dynasty, especially in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The topless collar dress is a kind of semi-topless big sleeve shirt, and the material is made of gauze. At that time, it was described as "slow-binding Luo skirt and semi-covering the chest", "uneven shame and killing snow hibiscus" and "Kirara slim thread to see the skin", and it was accompanied by a long skirt that mopped the floor, which fully reflected the graceful posture and natural beauty of women in the Tang Dynasty. Women in the Tang Dynasty liked military clothes and men's clothes. "Palace moths in military uniforms sweep their eyebrows lightly" depicts the scene of women wearing military uniforms in the palace. During the reign of Wu Zong, Wang Cairen was often mistaken for the emperor by the performers because of the same clothes as Wu Zong. What is good in the world will be effective in the next. In the heyday of the Tang Dynasty, the wives of scholars invariably wore their husbands' clothes, hats and boots, and the maids followed the example of their mistresses in wearing men's round neck suits, with their heads wrapped in hoes and black boots. Women in the Tang Dynasty had no other idea of being Chinese and foreigners. During the Tianbao period of Kaiyuan, Han women dressed in lapels, tight-fitting Hu clothes with narrow sleeves and waist straps were everywhere in the streets of Chang 'an, Luoyang and other metropolises, which reflected the open and bodybuilding spirit of women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
women's hair heads are mainly made of various caps and combs. Wearing a cap, the first line of power, the second line of curtain hat, and then Hu Mao. In the early Tang Dynasty, women had the custom of "covering their faces". When they went out, women wore power, which was a large square towel. It was generally made of thin and transparent gauze, and when they wore it, they covered their bodies and covered their whole bodies. During the reign of Emperor Gaozong, with the opening of social atmosphere, he changed to wear a curtain hat of "skirt to neck". In the prosperous era of Kaiyuan, women simply removed their hats and went out in a bun, or followed the example of men and conference semifinals, wrapped in hoes and dressed in colorful Hu Mao. Hu Mao originated from the Western Regions and Tubo ethnic groups, and its shape is novel and changeable. Some of them have rolled eaves and empty roofs, some are equipped with upturned hat ears, and some of them are decorated with fur along the brim. In addition, if you go out for a long trip, you should also wear a hood to avoid dust.
In the Tang Dynasty, women wore shoes, boots and shoes. The shoes are made of brocade, hemp, silk, twill and other fabrics. There are also straw shoes made of cattail grass. Embroidered ornaments are often added to the shoes, and the shoes have a variety of head shapes, such as round head, high head, cloud shape and flower shape, as the Tang poetry says: "Cloudy head stepping on the temple shoes", "golden frowning heavy platform shoes" and "cluster head shoes are red and thin". Boots are mostly made of brocade, which is woven successfully and beautifully decorated. It is loved by folk women when it is used barefoot in summer. For example, Li Bai's poem says, "My feet are like frost, and I don't need crow's head socks".
women in the Tang dynasty pursued beauty and accessories, and their makeup and accessories were rich in content, including hairstyle, headdress, face makeup and accessories. Women's hair styles are mainly comb-bun, or tied on the top of the head, or tied at the back of the head, with very rich shapes. There are dozens of kinds of names, such as semi-turned bun, cloud bun, wandering bun, startled gue bun, Japanese falling bun, double-ring wangxian bun, wuman bun and Uighur bun. In the early Tang Dynasty, the bun was simple and flat. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, high bun became popular, and bun styles were numerous. Hair accessories include hairpin, hairpin, step shake, victory, uranium, flowers and so on. Most of them are made of jade, gold, silver, tortoiseshell and other materials, and the technology is exquisite. Hairpins are often used in pairs, and they are inserted horizontally, obliquely or backwards. Walking shake is one of the best products. The hairpin head is made into a bird-like bead string with a bird's mouth, which shakes with walking and multiplies charm. In the middle and late Tang dynasty, women also popularized inserting combs, and decorated their hair with delicate and beautiful small flowers.
There are many methods of facial makeup, such as applying aluminum powder, rouge, eyebrow painting, applique cymbals, face painting, oblique red painting, and lip grease. Those who make up lightly choose two or three, and those who make up heavily use them all. Lead powder is white in color and delicate in texture, and it is "white and bright" when applied to face, neck and chest. Rouge is a paste pigment made of extracted red and blue flower juice and pig fat and bovine marrow. Due to the preference of emperors and literati, women's eyebrows are full of tricks. Xuanzong once ordered painters to paint Ten Eyebrows Painting in Sichuan, including Yuanyang Eyebrows, Hill Eyebrows and Inverted Eyebrows. Broad eyebrows are the main eyebrows, which were generally drawn longer in the early Tang Dynasty, and short eyebrows became popular after the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Flower bud is a kind of forehead decoration, which is cut into various flower shapes with gold foil, black paper, mica, fish cheekbones and other materials, especially plum blossom, which is most common and attached to the brow. Noodles are stained with rouge at the dimples on the cheeks, or pasted with gold foil like flowers. Oblique red is a kind of fashionable dress for women in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, in which two red crescent-shaped patterns are painted with rouge on the cheeks and temples. The neat ones are shaped like strings and moons, while the complicated ones look like scars.
necklaces are decorated with necklaces, collars, wreaths, etc., arms are decorated with armbands and bracelets, and waist ornaments are decorated with Yu Pei and sachets.