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Reading Notes Clothing Material Identification and Selection

· Textile process flow: Fiber >> Spinning >> Weaving >> Dyeing and finishing >> Fabric inspection.

· Clothing production process: select fabrics >> fabric inspection >> production process to confirm fabric structure, color and feel >> check the style and whether it is consistent with the sample data >> measure the size >> cut >> cut pieces Inspection >> Sewing >> First needle inspection >> All products inspection >> Ironing >> Full product inspection again >> Packaging >> Needle inspection again >> General inspection >> Warehousing and shipping.

· A simple understanding is: select the fabric, confirm whether it is consistent with the desired sample information, measure the size, cut, check the data and effect, sew, iron, and package. During this period, you need to check the product and whether it has Needle, shipped.

· Small factory: plate making >> pattern >> layout >> cutting >> sewing >> thread processing >> technical guidance inspection >> ironing >> full inspection >> packaging > >Departure.

· Yarn: ordinary yarn, filament, new yarn.

· Fabrics: woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and other special fabrics.

· Clothing material information (fabric, accessories):

· Accessories include: lining, lining, wadding, thread materials, fastening materials, trademarks and logos, others Material.

· Gusset is the material attached between the fabric and lining.

· Lining, also known as lining or folder.

· Knitted fabric: The yarn is bent into loops, and the loops are intertwined to form a fabric. The coil is the smallest basic unit. The hole-shaped coil has good air permeability and good elasticity when extending in all directions. It has curling and detaching properties, and is prone to snagging and pilling.

·Woven fabric: A fabric made of interwoven yarns that are perpendicular to each other. The intersection point of longitude and latitude becomes the organization point, which is the smallest basic unit. It is generally tight, stiff, and relatively stable in structure.

·Knitted fabrics:

Longitudinal density, transverse density, coil length, square meter weight

Elongation performance, elasticity, breaking strength, abrasion resistance, roll Edge properties, detachability, shrinkage, coverage

· Woven fabrics:

Piece length, width, thickness, warp and weft density, tightness, square meter weight

Tensile properties, elasticity, pilling, drape, wear resistance

· Cotton: comfortable and natural

· Linen: green and healthy, simple and natural, moisture absorption Breathable, poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle, stiff, rough?

· Wool: soft, durable, elastic, non-deformable, highly hygroscopic

· Silk: gorgeous, Rich, light, soft and elegant

· Polyester: smooth feel, high strength, good elasticity, anti-wrinkle and easy to iron (commonly used)

· Nylon: smooth feel, wear-resistant, waxy Lighter and less elastic than polyester (raincoats, sports fabrics)

· Acrylic: fluffy, good stretchability, and good warmth retention. Wool-like fabrics are lighter and warmer than wool fabrics, but have more serious fluffing and pilling. (Sweatshirt fabric)

· Fur: windproof and warm, natural tube sheen, fluffy fluff

· Touch: comfortable or rough, warm or cold, smooth or rough, friction on the inside of the wrist Is it itchy and rough?

·Pinch and rub: bend and pinch to feel the fluffy and firmness, loosen to see the resistance to bending and wrinkles. Is the sound of friction pleasant? Rub it quickly to see if static electricity is easily generated.

· Grasp and hold: Put it in the palm of your hand to see if there is a beating feeling when it bounces off, and whether the creases quickly recover to what extent. You can shake it to see the recovery situation.

· Shake: Shake gently to see if the shape is straight and round or supple and smooth, and whether there is a sense of drape.

· Pull: to see whether there is elasticity and degree of recovery, and to observe whether the structure is stable.

· Fabric finishing and dyeing, yarn finishing and dyeing, loose fiber dyeing.

· Four parts of finishing and dyeing:

Pre-treatment: bleaching/desizing/mercerizing/pre-shaping/singing/scouring/scouring to improve dyeing performance

< p> Dyeing: giving color through dyes, or producing insoluble colored substances on the fabric, mainly dip dyeing or pad dyeing

Printing: obtaining patterns

Finishing: chemical or physical methods to improve the fabric Appearance and feel

· Batik: made by applying wax >> drawing >> dyeing >> dewaxing >> rinsing, mainly blue and white, it is a resist-dye printing process, and the cloth is dyed where there is wax< /p>

· Tie-dye: It is a resist-dye printing process. The fabric is folded and bundled, and then immersed in color paste for dyeing. The bundled part is not soaked. Generally, isatis root or other natural plants are used, and batik can also be used

· Splash dyeing: by splashing or painting, the pattern is abstract and will have a drop-like effect

· Hanging dyeing: It is a type of anti-theft dyeing Dyeing and printing process, hanging on a reciprocating rack, the dyeing tank is filled with dye solutions of different concentrations to form a gradient effect

· Others: clip dyeing, type dyeing, hand-painting, spraying, manual screen printing...

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· Natural color cloth: also called original color cloth, without printing and dyeing processing

· Bleached cloth: bleached, the color is whiter

· Dyed cloth: piece-dyed processing< /p>

· Printed fabric: pattern has been generated

· Yarn-dyed fabric: woven with yarns of different colors (such as denim)

· Colored woven fabric: loose fiber Dyed fabrics

· Jacquard: High requirements for yarns, the concave and convex patterns formed by interlacing warp and weft yarns have a three-dimensional protruding feeling (Chinese silk)

· Embroidery: Embroidery

· Burnt-out: Utilizing the chemical properties of the different acid fastnesses of the two fibers, burn-out processing is carried out in acid solution, dissolving and rotting, forming a clear, light and transparent texture. (Curtains, bedspreads...)

·Embossed: special treatment to form concave and convex patterns. (Embossed printed fabrics, embossed printed fabrics...)

· Cutting: After jacquard weaving, the excess yarn floating on the fabric is cut off, and the warp is generally reduced and called warp cutting to form a pattern layer. feel. (Denim ripped fluff...)

· Others: quilting, splicing, layering, hollowing, crocheting, destruction, three-dimensionalization...

· Original organization: Miyuan basic organization, including Plain weave, twill weave, satin weave.

· Plain weave: Every other weave point is interwoven, and the warp and weft yarns are interlaced the most. It is not easy to sand, resists snagging, and has poor gloss. (Plain cloth, poplin, seersucker, voile, canvas, linen, Verridin, Palis, flannel, crepe de chine, georgette, Hangzhou spinning, foreign spinning, electric spinning)

· Twill Weave: Obvious left or right diagonal grain, usually right diagonal on the front, fewer interlacing times than plain weave, more solid yarns per unit length, increased thickness and density, fewer interlacing points, good gloss, soft feel, good elasticity, and anti-wrinkle Performance improvements. (Labor, twill, khaki, gabardine, serge, damask, beautiful silk)

· Satin weave: the type with the least number of interlacings among the three original weaves, with higher density, thicker, soft and drapey Good properties, smooth and shiny. (Henggon satin, straight tribute satin, satin, brocade, brocade)

· Changed organization: Based on the three original organizations, it is derived by changing certain factors such as circulation, float length, and organization point position< /p>

· Combined weave and complex weave: strip weave, crepe weave, honeycomb weave, perforated weave, double-layer weave, raised weave, leno weave, dobby weave

· Weave Analysis method: Observe directly with a magnifying glass, or remove 1cm from the edge and observe each piece one by one

· According to the package identification, pack them into pieces, and the side facing outward is the reverse side. Folded, the inside is the front.

· Look at the edge of the fabric. The front side is flat and smooth, and the edge of the back side is curled upward.

· If the entire piece is edged, the direction of the yarn parallel to the edge is the warp direction.

· The meridional stretchability is small, the latitudinal stretchability is large, and the diagonal stretchability is the largest.

· The warp yarn is thinner and the weft yarn is thicker.

·The length of fabric is generally measured in piece length, with the unit of meter m. (The unit of international code is yd, 1yd=0.9144m)

· One piece is the distance between the outermost weft yarns at both ends in the length direction.

· The weight of the fabric: cut 1㎡ (or cut 10cm*10cm) to find the square meter weight of the fabric (g/㎡)

· Fabric specification format: width B ( m) *Special number of warp yarns TtT (tex) *Special number of weft yarns TtW (tex) *Warp density PT (root/10cm) *Weft density PW (root/10cm)

· One piece purchased is generally 30m Above, the length less than 17.5m is called patchwork, and the length is 1-4.9m is small patchwork.

· Sample:

· Key contents of purchase order:

· Common appearance quality problems:

· Common internal quality problems: < /p>

· Frequently asked questions about fabrics:

· Lining materials: cotton lining, linen lining, wool lining, chemical lining, paper lining. (Hot-melt bonding and non-hot-melt bonding)

· Cotton lining: smooth, rough, stiff and elastic, and is a low-grade lining.

· Linen lining: The lining of Chinese tunic suit is stiff, smooth and moderately soft. However, the shrinkage rate is about 6%, which requires pre-shrinking.

· Wool lining: black charcoal lining and horsetail lining, high-end clothing lining materials, with excellent texture, good elasticity, high stiffness and good styling effect.

· Chemical lining: including resin lining, adhesive lining and film lining.

· Resin lining: good elasticity, high stiffness, small shrinkage, relatively rigid after bonding to clothing, mainly used for stiffening, shaping, and shaping parts.

· Woven hot-melt adhesive lining: good anti-wrinkle performance, medium to high-end clothing.

· Knitted hot-melt adhesive lining: more elastic, used for knitted or elastic clothing.

· Non-woven hot-melt adhesive lining: low-priced and not washable, suitable for mid- to low-end clothing.

· Film lining: good elasticity, high stiffness, washable, used for hard collar corners.

· Collar bottom: The material used for high-end suit collar bottoms has good stiffness and elasticity, which can make the suit collar flat, thin, firm, elastic and not deformed.

· Waist lining: Stiff, non-slip, shape-retaining, and increases friction.

· Insert lining: Insert lining, used in armholes, collar pockets, and pocket openings to prevent distortion during the production of easily deformed parts, such as the seams, hems, armholes, and lapels of garments. Mouths and seams, etc.

· Fusible lining specifications and models: raw material mark + 3-digit lining fabric category/hot melt adhesive type/coating process + 3-digit base fabric square meter mass g/㎡, composed of three parts, for example: C100-150

· Natural fiber lining: cotton lining, silk lining.

· Cotton fabric: good moisture absorption and breathability, not prone to static electricity, comfortable. Not smooth, easy to wrinkle, and inconvenient to put on and take off. Mid-to-low-end jackets for infants and children

· Silk lining: soft, smooth, good moisture absorption and breathability, no irritation to the skin, not prone to static electricity, easy to wrinkle, not machine washable, low strength, high price. Used for high-end clothing

· Regenerated cellulose fiber lining: Meili silk, Fuchunfang.

· Viscose fiber lining: soft, shiny, strong moisture absorption, good air permeability, easy to deform, low strength. Staple fibers are used for medium and low grades, and filaments are used for medium and high grades. The shrinkage rate is large and it is not resistant to frequent washing.

· Acetate lining: Slightly better than viscose, has the same purpose. The wear resistance is also poor

· Cupro fiber lining: similar to viscose fiber, with a silk feel.

·Synthetic fiber lining: polyester, nylon. There are polyester taffeta and nylon.

· Polyester lining: easy to wash and quick-dry, firm and crisp, not easy to wrinkle, high strength, poor air permeability, generates static electricity, generally used in windbreakers.

· Nylon lining: high strength, high elongation, good elastic recovery, better wear resistance and air permeability than polyester, but poor shape retention, stiffness, and poor heat resistance.

· Warp yarn and feather yarn are one of the traditional lining materials for suits, coats and jackets.

· Cotton filler: unprocessed natural fibers or chemical fibers, such as cotton, silk floss, wool, down, camel hair, etc., which are loose and need to be processed and fixed, and are not suitable for machine washing.

· Material filling: foam, space cotton, soft, uniform and fixed sheet shape, machine washable.

· Cotton batting: comfortable, good warmth retention, poor elasticity, difficult to dry after washing, easy to deform, medium and low-end clothing.

· Silk floss: high-grade cold-proof filling, light, soft, smooth, warm, elastic, moisture-permeable and breathable.

·Animal velvet: high-grade warm filling, but easy to feel knotted and moth-eaten.

· Chemical fiber filling: easy to wash, durable, good storage, low price and rich in variety, most of them have poor moisture permeability and air permeability. Good thermal insulation properties and widely used: acrylic cotton, hollow cotton, pearl cotton.

· Acrylic cotton: light and warm

· Pearl cotton: better breathability

· Down: limited resources and expensive

< p>·Sprayed cotton: sprayed cotton batting, a type of non-woven fabric.

· Needle-punched cotton: a type of non-woven fabric, washable.

· Hot-melt cotton: Silk-like cotton, soft, fluffy, mechanically strong, and resistant to washing, becoming a substitute for spray-coated cotton.

· Down cotton: feels like down.

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· Foam plastic: polyurethane, stiff and elastic, cheap, airtight, poor comfort, poor hygiene, easy to age and become brittle, only used in life jackets.

· Commonly found in shoulder pads and chest pads.

·Acupuncture shoulder pads: washable, heat-resistant and durable, used for high-end suits and professional clothing.

· Shaped shoulder pads: elastic, easy to shape, washable, with various shapes, used in various fashions.

· Sponge shoulder pad: good elasticity, easy to make and low price.

· Shoulder pad specifications: length, width, thickness, high span

· Zipper: composed of three parts: meshing teeth, zipper puller, and cloth tape

· Zipper specifications: The width of the teeth on both sides after meshing is the specification, in millimeters

· Technical parameters: zipper specifications, thickness of the chain teeth, width of the single-sided tape

· The larger the zipper model number, the thicker the chain teeth, and the greater the fastening force

· Buttons: eye buttons, foot buttons, snap buttons (four-button buttons)

· The outer diameter of the button is measured in Lenny. (1 lyni = 0.635mm)

·Thin, small, and soft for underwear

·Large, thick, and stiff for outerwear

·Materials include: textile , paper, woven, leather, metal

· Textile trademarks: widely used, nylon coated cloth, polyester coated cloth, pure cotton coated cloth, polyester-cotton blended coated cloth

· Paper: hang tag

· Woven trademark: woven label, usually used as the main trademark

· Leather: leather tag, generally used on denim clothing

·Metal: generally used in denim clothing

·Quality mark: indicates the material content

·Usage mark: guides washing, ironing, drying, and storage Method

· Specification mark: size

· Origin mark: usually at the bottom of the mark

· Certificate mark: After the garment has passed the inspection, the inspection The personnel will be stamped with a qualified seal and printed on the hangtag

· Barcode mark: information can be identified using a scanning device, on the hangtag or sticker mark

· Environmental protection mark: not included Substances harmful to humans

·Three-layer corrugated: light products

·Five-layer corrugated: fragile products

·Seven-layer corrugated: heavy items

· The higher the tex of the yarn, the finer the yarn, the more complex the process, the more expensive the price, and the higher the grade

· Most collar linings are made of linen or resin linen

< p> · Keywords for shirt fabric selection: muslin, oxford cloth, velvet, palis, linen, silk

· muslin: 19-10tex (29-59 English)

· Commercial cloth: medium plain cloth, plain cloth, 19-28tex (21-31 English count), between coarse cloth and fine cloth, moderate thickness, strong and durable.

· Coarse cloth: Coarse cloth, 32tex and above (less than 18 inches), rough and strong, thick and firm.

· Poplin: smooth, light, smooth and silky, with an obvious diamond-shaped granular surface, the main fabric for men's and women's shirts

· Horizontal satin: high-end fabric, smooth and smooth, highly reflective , not wear-resistant, prone to lint and snagging, do not wash vigorously.

· Veridin: A light and thin fabric among wool fabrics, used for summer clothes. The noodles are evenly dried, soft to the touch, elastic and breathable.

· Palisi: a light woolen fabric similar to Veridin, with a crisscross surface.

· Oxford cloth: Generally indigo blue, with good breathability and comfortable wearing, with white warp and white weft.

· Youth spinning: The color is white warp and weft, indigo blue, rough and rustic, similar to denim, light, flexible, stiff and elastic.

· Linen muslin: fine and medium-sized linen, absorbs and disperses moisture quickly, is not easy to absorb dust, is easy to wash and iron, is cool and smooth.

·?Ramie muslin: poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle, and poor wear resistance.

· Linen blended fabric: high strength, cool and breathable, stiff and wear-resistant.

· Bali yarn: low density, thin and translucent, also known as glass yarn, breathable, can be used as women's shirts.

· Linen yarn: It is neither hemp nor mixed with linen fiber. It is a thin cotton fabric with an appearance similar to linen. It has a low density and breathability, is light and smooth, and has a greater shrinkage in the weft direction than in the warp direction.

·Flannel: Cotton fabric with a velvety surface, beautiful appearance, soft, comfortable and warm feel, and strong moisture absorption.

· Seersucker: cotton or polyester-cotton, plain fabric woven with medium or fine texture. It has a unique appearance, strong three-dimensional effect, light texture, good breathability, cool, no need to iron after washing, and will become larger as it wears. Don't loosen up women's and children's summer clothes too much.

· Bark crepe: Shrunk in the weft direction into a bark-like uneven crepe effect, strong three-dimensional effect, moisture absorption and breathability, imitation linen effect, summer clothing material.

· Wrinkled fabric: irregular wrinkles, more random.

· Denim: yarn-dyed twill cotton, color warp and white weft, indigo blue.

· Burnt-out cloth:…

· Cotton silk: It feels rough and elastic, has a rough and uneven appearance, lacks luster, is rough and natural, and is covered with spots and bumps.

·Ribbon fabric: Regular gauze holes on the surface, uniform ribbing, crisp and smooth, soft and comfortable, good breathability, washable and wearable, summer clothing material. (Hangluo clothing)

· Satin fabric: smooth and bright, tight texture, soft and elastic. The disadvantage is that it is not wear-resistant or washable.

· Crepe fabric: light, sparse, soft luster, elastic, anti-wrinkle, breathable and comfortable. The shrinkage rate is large.

· Textile fabrics: electric spinning, nylon spinning, polyester spinning, Fuchun spinning, colorful stripe spinning, flower rich spinning. Good moisture absorption, thick, good dyeability, smooth and comfortable, poor wear resistance, easy to fluff, suitable for pajamas and costumes.

· Straight skirt: choose wool fabric in winter, choose tight cotton fabric or linen fabric in spring and summer. Zhongping cloth, cotton Zhigong, gabardine, ramie fabric, linen fabric, cotton and linen blend.

· Jacket skirt: denim, coarse cloth, canvas. For those with high styling requirements: breeches, chocolate denim.

· Breeches: thick twill wool fabric, strong and wear-resistant, suitable for riding trousers, with obvious uneven texture, thick body bones, 340-400g/㎡, rough and deep Color is the main color.

· Chocolat: a dense steep twill fabric with double roots juxtaposed on the surface. It is thinner and flatter than breeches. Its appearance is similar to the ribbing of knitted fabrics. It is elastic and has a pure color, making the jacket more stylish. Comfortable.

· Cheongsam skirt: summer cotton printed fabric, printed crepe de chine, scented crepe, twill silk, georgette. Spring and autumn silk fabrics, horizontal satin, woven cotton satin, antique satin, cloud brocade, soft satin.

· Use a waist lining for half skirts.

· Dress: collar lining, cuff lining, tie lining.

· Cheongsam: collar lining, tie lining, placket and hem lining.

· Considerations in lining selection: color, weight, thickness, drape, shrinkage.

· Most skirts use adhesive linings, and thicker fabrics are used in autumn and winter. For spring and summer use, thin single-sided adhesive lining can be used. For smoother silk fabrics, you can choose sizing point lining with even sizing.

· A sheer skirt can be sewn into a sheer lining or made into a petticoat.

· Lining: Choose high-end silk, beautiful silk, mid-range polyester silk, acetate fiber, interwoven lining, low-end choose cheap synthetic fiber lining.

· Skirt decoration: embroidery, embroidery, beading, layering, pleating, lace, decorative ribbons...

· Brass pads, hip pads, skirts for wedding dresses support.

· Artificial fur: chemical fiber as raw material, mechanical processing, imitation of animal fur.

· Knitted artificial fur, woven artificial fur, artificial curly fur.

· Pig leather: wear-resistant and durable, breathable and water-permeable, uneven, with large pores, easy to absorb water and deform, not as good as cowhide and sheepskin.

· Cow leather: yellow cowhide and buffalo leather. Buffalo leather has fewer pores than cowhide, is uneven and rough, and is not as delicate as cowhide and sheepskin. But it has high wrinkle resistance and is often used as industrial leather.

· Calf leather: Old cows and calves are not suitable for clothing materials in old age. Calf leather is the best leather and is an ideal material for high-end leather clothing and shoes.

· Sheep leather: There are two types: goat and sheep. Goat has good breathability and luster, but is not as soft and delicate as sheep. Sheepskin has good elasticity and extensibility, but its thin skin has low strength. Sheep leather is suitable for clothing, gloves, shoes and hats, and backpacks.

· Suede leather: a small deer, precious leather, with many spots, so it is made into suede leather, which is breathable and absorbs water well.

· Horse leather: The front part of the horse is used for clothing, but the buttocks leather is not used.

· Artificial leather: PVC polyvinyl chloride is coated on fabric. This year, there is also PU polyurethane synthetic leather. The base is made of non-woven fabric, and the surface layer is made of porous material to imitate the structure of natural leather.

· Artificial leather: PVC, in which the foam is artificially soft and elastic, close to real leather.

· Synthetic leather: PU, its appearance is closer to natural leather than artificial leather, its strength and wear resistance are higher than artificial leather, and its feel is very close to goatskin.

· Artificial suede: Faux suede, soft, breathable and durable.

· Leather clothing production: No. 14 needle, 50tex thread, stitch density 3-4 needles/cm, decorative thread 2-3 needles/cm, dry iron the reverse side of the leather at 90-100 degrees.

· Inner and outerwear, T-shirts, POLO, sports and leisure, fashion

· Warp knitting: polyester, nylon, vinylon, polypropylene, etc., longitudinally stable, crisp, and will not curl. It has good breathability, but its transverse performance is not as good as that of weft knitting.

· Weft knitting: low-elastic polyester yarn, special-shaped polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton yarn, wool yarn, good elasticity, good extensibility, softness, wrinkle resistance, easy to fall apart and curl.

· Underwear: elastic, stretchable, soft, moisture-absorbent, breathable, non-static, warm. Choose natural fibers or blends with a small proportion of chemical fibers. Summer pure cotton jersey, flannel, silk jersey. Winter cotton woolen cloth, rib cloth, Lycra cotton knitted cloth. Consider wear resistance, no ironing, and shape retention. Modern uses include apocynum, colored cotton, bamboo pulp fiber, modal, lyocell, etc.

· Undershirts and vests: hygroscopic and elastic. Generally, it is made of plain jersey or mesh cloth made of pure cotton with less than 18.2tex yarn, natural fiber such as silk or blended yarn.

· T-shirts: cotton, linen, wool, silk, chemical fiber and blended fabrics.

· Jersey: The general name for fabrics formed by weft plain stitch. Thin and soft, with serious curling and loose edges.

·Flannel: A knitted fabric with one or both sides of the fabric covered with a layer of dense short fine velvet. Can sew winter clothes

·Terry fabric: one or both sides have annular yarn loops, water absorption and warmth retention, terry cloth.

· Velvet fabric: a type of plush knitted fabric, formed by shearing terry tissue.

· Rib fabric: Transverse stretching has greater elasticity and extensibility, and less hemming. It will not fall apart in the direction of weaving.

· Cotton wool fabric: Double rib knitted fabric, composed of two rib tissues, with better stability than jersey and rib fabric.

· Flat knitting machine collar accessories: Special collar shape for T-shirts, knitted on special flat knitting machines.