●The Pixian Doubanjiang in supermarkets are all authentic products. But if you have to be strict about quality and quality, you can't even call it authentic. Explain the reasons clearly from five aspects:
First, what is Pixian Doubanjiang. Doubanjiang is the most commonly used seasoning sauce in Sichuan cuisine. It is artificially fermented and sun-dried from broad beans and chili peppers. Because of its unique color, aroma and taste, it has become an essential condiment for cooking and is known as the soul of Sichuan cuisine. Produced in Pidu District, Chengdu City, Sichuan Province, it was approved as a Chinese geographical indication product by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine on the last day of 2015, and the production process was included in the national intangible cultural heritage list.
Second, how did Pixian Doubanjiang come from. This is a true story. It is said that during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, there was a craftsman named Chen Shouxin in Pixian County. Based on the traditional way of making chili sauce, he added steamed, breaded and fermented broad beans and dried them together. The resulting sauce was different from the others. Big difference, extraordinarily fresh and red in color. It is used in cooking and has its own flavor, forming the most fundamental characteristics of Sichuan cuisine.
Third, the development of Pixian Doubanjiang. After the birth of Pixian Doubanjiang, it quickly became a local famous brand. It has experienced three major stages of development in more than 300 years. In the first stage, the market competition was dominated by inventors, and the Chen family continued to grow and develop; in the second stage, during the Republic of China, the government, the army and the market worked together, and the products were widely disseminated, and the output reached more than 400,000 kilograms in the 1940s; in the third stage, The first stage is the public-private partnership after liberation and becoming a truly industrialized product.
Fourth, the market performance of Pixian Doubanjiang. Like other local famous brand products, Xinyang tea, Wuchang rice, Fuling mustard, one product, multiple manufacturers, and countless brands. Currently, there are hundreds of brands of doubanjiang in Pixian County, with an annual output of one million tons and tens of thousands of employees. As the scale increases, the products will inevitably be uneven. Among the many brands, there are two relatively stable brands, one is the time-honored Juancheng brand and the other is the Dandan brand. Fortunately, among other brands, there are generally very few fake products.
Fifth, which brand is authentic. Among the hundreds of existing brands, Juancheng brand and Dandan brand have the best reputation. However, they are not considered authentic. The truly authentic ones are the sauces made by each brand themselves. When you go to their home, you will know that the production technology of Pixian Doubanjiang is really meticulous. It usually takes one year, and at most three years to make it. It’s really unforgettable to eat the Doubanjiang made by my family.
Pixian Doubanjiang is outstanding among the many condiments in Chinese food. It is also praised as the "soul of Sichuan cuisine". Many people now pay attention to "authenticity" when tasting delicious food. I think traditional crafts and products should be valued even if they are culturally preserved. However, food needs to progress with the times. Of course, traditional culture cannot be lost, but it is not a good thing to stick to the status quo, so everyone should treat this matter rationally.
If you trace the history of Pixian Doubanjiang, you have to mention the "Chen family" who created the prototype of Doubanjiang in the Qing Dynasty and continued and developed it.
It is said that the prototype of Doubanjiang was born during the Kangxi period. Some people of the Chen clan mixed dried broad beans with salt and chili for rice. Unexpectedly, they found that it was quite appetizing and delicious. This is The original style of Doubanjiang. Later, during the Jiaqing period, the Chen family opened the "Shuntian Hao" Sauce Garden, selling the first version of Pixian Douban - pickled red peppers.
Later during the Xianfeng period, Chen Shouxin, a descendant of the Chen family, improved the methods of his ancestors and founded the "Yifenghe" soy sauce garden on the basis of "Shuntian Hao". Pixian Douban The sauce has been officially perfected. (I need to add a few words here. It is obvious that Mr. Chen Shouxin, who is respected as the "originator of Pixian Douban", is not a complacent person. If he blindly followed the "authentic" practices of his ancestors at that time, he would not have done so later. Pixian Doubanjiang.)
Later, after a long period of development, competition, changes, etc., the current Pixian Doubanjiang emerged, so when it comes to the authentic brand of Pixian Doubanjiang, naturally It is Juancheng Doubanjiang produced by Yifeng Hehao, which has a 300-year heritage. In fact, this is a relatively uncontroversial "authentic" identification. After all, this is a national intangible cultural heritage, and it is also the true originator of Doubanjiang that is relatively recognized by the people.
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I am very happy to see this question, because I am an authentic Sichuanese, and my parents now live in Pixian County. Every time I go home, I can smell a strong smell of Douban.
Let’s talk about Pixian Douban. There are many Pixian Douban brands on the market, and the more famous brands are Juancheng and Dandan.
Pixian Douban has the characteristics of spicy and heavy flavor, bright red and oily, and sweet aftertaste. It is a flavor that we Sichuan people love very much. The production technique of Pixian Douban has been listed in the national intangible cultural heritage list, which is enough to prove that its production technique is superb and delicious, and it is loved by people across the country. However, many people now confuse red oil bean paste with Pixian bean paste. In fact, the two have different flavors, and the former is not as complicated to make as the latter. Authentic Pixian Doubanjiang needs to go through the process of turning, drying and exposing, and it takes at least a year to make. If you are not skilled in the craftsmanship, the first three processes will easily cause the Doubanjiang to become flaky. Deterioration, only in the hands of some people who are proficient in the production process can the flavor of bean paste be maximized.
Let’s talk about how to choose doubanjiang. When choosing bean paste in the supermarket, I suggest you buy the Juancheng brand and Dandan brand I mentioned above. When choosing bean paste, try to choose those that are darker in color and without red oil, because the darker the color, the longer the drying time of the bean paste is, the more unique the flavor will be. And now the price of Doubanjiang is also distinguished by the age of Doubanjiang, just like liquor. Douban that is more than 3 years old can be regarded as a special grade. The overall color is dark reddish brown, the oil content is shiny, and the sauce aroma is the strongest. It is also called Lao Douban because it takes longer to make. Relatively speaking, Douban tastes more mellow, so it is more expensive. Those aged 3-6 months are generally red bean sprouts, which are red in color, slightly oily and shiny, and easy to color when cooking. However, the taste is not very rich, so many diners and chefs who pursue both taste and color mix Laodou and Hongyou Douban. This way, the dishes can have both color, flavor and shape.
Which brand of Pixian Douban is authentic?
As a Douban food lover and Douban user, I would like to share with you the authenticity of Douban and the story of Douban.
Douban. Originating from the Chengdu Plain in Sichuan, Douban is indispensable in people's lives throughout Sichuan and Chongqing. Sichuan Douban is divided into two types, one is called Yang Douban and the other is called Yin Douban. In the industry, they are called Hongdou Ban and Black Douban, because Hongdou Ban is Yin Douban and Black Douban is Yang Douban. The production of Yin Douban is not done in the sun, but in the shade. It is made and eaten in the same year. In some places, spices and vegetable oil are added to make it. Yang Douban is the well-known Pixian Douban. It is made from Erjingtiao peppers that are abundant in the Chengdu Plain and fermented in the sun. The general fermentation period is more than two years. The color is black and red and shiny, and the aroma is pleasant. It is one of the most important condiments in Sichuan cuisine. It is known as the soul of Sichuan cuisine. Therefore, Douban has too many brands in the market and is a mixed bag. There are not many good bean sprouts, and the ones that scream loudly are rare. There are too many Douban brands in Pixian County, and the one that everyone is more optimistic about is the Juancheng brand Douban, but there are many underground branches. The most authentic one is the Juancheng brand Douban produced by the Pixian Douban Research Institute and the Pixian Douban General Factory.
I have lived in Chengdu for a few years, and I like Sichuan cuisine, and I like Pixian Douban, the soul of Sichuan cuisine.
When I cook at home, I also like to add Pixian Douban as seasoning. However, there are currently too many brands of Douban in Pixian County, and the quality varies. It is not easy to buy, and when used for cooking, it only has a salty taste and no fragrance.
In the Xi'an supermarket market, there are also many Pixian Douban brands. I must have used no less than 10 brands.
According to my own personal test, the brand is of good quality, fragrant, salty and spicy, and the first choice is the Juancheng brand, followed by the Dandan brand. Therefore, the authentic Pixian Douban should be the Juancheng brand.
Most of the other brands have less oil, more salt, no fragrance, or have impurities in them.
I can’t figure out which one of Dandan brand and Juancheng brand Douban is authentic!
In the 1970s, I ate Linjiang Temple brand bean paste. It tasted so good that my mouth watered just thinking about it!
No one is as delicious as the one we make. The aroma fills your nose as soon as you open the jar. I went to Yancheng during the Spring Festival, and I brought a small jar of homemade pickled bean paste with me. Come and eat it, because no one selling it outside is as delicious as my sister’s marinated one. It’s not an exaggeration at all.
I hope that the practitioners of Pixian Douban can make the douban that has the aroma of douban in the 1950s but is not too salty. The current bean curd is too salty (including Juancheng) and they dare not let it go. It's a good product, even if it's a little more expensive, it will be popular. I miss the Yuan Hongdou Ban in those days!
Hello everyone, I am the spatula layman-Tang Chun. I am a senior technician of Chinese cooking, the first generation disciple of Shipai Sichuan cuisine, and the first generation disciple of Chinese Imperial Cuisine (Tangmen Li School).
I started studying with Master Shi Zhengliang, the master of Sichuan cuisine, in 2010. Master’s first lesson is still fresh in my memory: “It is difficult for a skillful woman to cook without rice, and it is difficult for a skillful cook to cook without ingredients.” So, The first thing my master taught me was not the cooking skills, but the various ingredients and condiments of Sichuan cuisine. Among these condiments, the most important ones are the four major flavors of Sichuan cuisine: Pixian douban, Zhongba soy sauce, Mucor black bean and Baoning vinegar. Especially Pixian Douban, Master took us to Pixian County for a few times to understand and study, so I have a relatively deep understanding of Pixian Douban.
For this reason, I will answer this question, hoping to clear up your doubts.
Let me first declare: I am introducing Pixian Douban to you from a neutral perspective. I have no intention to praise or criticize any company. I am only responsible for the authenticity of this article.
To answer this question, we must first understand: What is Pixian Douban? This topic is huge, so the article is a bit long. Those who are impatient can just read the bold words.
Let’s talk about its history first.
The history of Pixian Douban before the reform and opening up can be found on Baidu, so I won’t go into details here. In this regard, I will go straight to the point and say: In terms of brands, there are only two most authentic Pixian Douban: Yifeng Hehao (Juancheng) and Shaofeng Hehao, because these two are the only ones that are authentic. Miao Hong’s orthodox inheritance. However, these two companies are not enough to represent Pixian Douban. Because the main event has not yet begun.
After the founding of the People's Republic of China, two major soy sauce gardens, Yifenghe and Yuanfengyuan, responded to the joint venture. The two merged to form a state-owned douban factory, and the trademarks began to use "Yifenghehao" and "Juancheng" ( Juancheng is another name for Pixian County); and the trademark "Pixian Douban" was nationalized and belonged to the Pixian County government.
In order to encourage economic development and promote more Pixian specialties, the Pixian County Government has adopted the policy that as long as you "join" the Pixian Douban Industry Association, you can use the "Pixian Douban" trademark; in order to regulate The entire industry has also applied for the national standard of Pixian Douban. Enterprises that do not meet the national standards will be resolutely banned from using the "Pixian Douban" trademark, and food production licenses will no longer be issued.
Therefore, those with the "Pixian Douban" trademark now comply with national standards. From this perspective, no matter which brand of Pixian Douban you buy, it is the authentic Pixian Douban. However, I want to remind you that Li Gui is always present. You should beware of "Dan County Douban", "Pixian flavor Douban", and "Pixian made Douban".
At this point, do you feel disappointed? Do you feel that I have said a lot, but it is as if I have not said anything? Don’t be impatient, because what comes next is the focus. Let’s start with a dish.
In addition to the rewards of the Republic of China, Pixian Douban became popular because of a dish - twice-cooked pork.
In the past, a long, long time ago, the only seasoning for stir-fried twice-cooked pork was Pixian Douban. Pixian Douban was known as the "soul of Sichuan cuisine" because of its strong sauce aroma. ". Was Pixian Douban really that fragrant at that time? Let’s take a look at why Pixian Douban only allowed him to serve twice-cooked pork in the past?
Let’s talk about the raw materials first: The raw materials of Pixian Douban are very simple, broad beans, chili and salt. The industry is commonly known as "Panzi" and "Haijiao". Pixian Douban has a strong sauce aroma, which is first fermented from broad beans. There is a professional term here called "Yinbianzi". To put it bluntly, it is a naturally fermented valve. The fermentation cycle is 4-6 months.
The fermented vaginal petals turn black, are fully saccharified, and have a sweet taste of sugar. Then mix the fermented petals and chili peppers. Note that the chili peppers can only be "Sichuan Erjingtiao".
Erjingtiao was originally called Erjintiao. According to legend, two gold bars can be exchanged for one acre of pepper. It was sown by Zhuge Liang in Muma Mountain, Shuangliu County, and became one of the three major financial revenues of the Northern Expedition of the Shu Kingdom. (There is no doubt here that chili peppers were introduced to China in the Ming Dynasty). But I regret to tell you that today’s purebred Sichuan Erjingtiao is almost exported to Japan and South Korea, and the Chinese people are almost unable to enjoy it. Don't be filled with indignation. If you were asked to pay 20 yuan for a pound of chili peppers, you would definitely scold me.
There is no Erjingtiao, the cycle of Yinbazi is too long, the financial pressure is too great, and few companies produce it. From this perspective, all the Pixian Douban you buy now are not Pixian Douban in the strict sense. Is this news regrettable? In fact, it doesn’t matter, because the pigs that make authentic twice-cooked pork are almost extinct, but we all eat twice-cooked pork the same way, and the same goes for Pixian Douban.
Since Pixian Douban is no longer the original Pixian Douban, why is it still so popular? Moreover, his demand is getting bigger and bigger? The reason why Pixian Douban is so popular now is that it is no longer Pixian Douban (does it feel like listening to a talk show?). But it is indeed the case, and we have to talk about the craftsmanship of Pixian Douban:
The reason why Pixian Douban is called Pixian Douban is not because he was born in Pixian County, but because of his processing technology It creates his uniqueness, just as the Diamond Sutra says: "The Buddha said Prajna Tantra, which is not Prajna Tantra, but is called Prajna Tantra."
The process of Pixian Douban is very simple. After the peppers are crushed and fermented with salt, the fermented petals are added and stirred evenly into the vat. As long as it doesn’t rain, the Douban will be open to the sun and dew, and it will be cooked every morning and evening. Stir it once, and this is the three-character formula of Pixian Douban: "turn, dry, and expose." Years of sun exposure and night dew have created the legendary sauce flavor of Pixian Douban. But unfortunately, what we buy now is basically not the Pixian Douban that is brewed and dried. It is not because of the evil intentions of the production companies, but because the demand has fundamentally changed.
With the demand of the catering market, people have discovered that the sauce flavor can be replaced, and tempeh, soy sauce, and sweet noodle sauce can all be substituted. Moreover, Pixian Douban (here refers to the traditional brewing and drying process) has a fatal weakness, which is that it turns black when cooked. In order to make up for its lack of color, chefs would use it with red sauce (also called red bean paste) until the emergence of red bean paste changed this situation.
Yes, it is the kind commonly seen on the market, packaged in plastic bottles, with two inconspicuous words - red oil - above the four words "Pixian Douban".
Hongyou Douban was created by "Wangfeng" who fundamentally revolutionized Pixian Douban. Wangfeng is definitely a lustful person, and all factors that are not conducive to the color are removed: the vaginal petals turn black and are changed to baked petals (fast fermentation in the greenhouse); the Sichuan peppers are not bright red in color, so they are changed to Xinjiang and Gansu peppers; the brewed sun-dried peppers are By darkening the color of the finished product, there is almost no sun exposure... Anyway, it has one purpose - to be outstanding.
Due to changes in market demand, Wangfeng has suddenly emerged in the industry and quickly ranked among the top three in the industry. As a result, the entire industry followed suit, and now red oil bean paste accounts for at least 80% of the entire douban industry in Pixian County, and the traditional craftsmanship has almost disappeared.
The two leading Douban companies in Pixian County, Juancheng (state-owned enterprise) and Dandan (the largest sales company), also followed suit and produced red oil douban to cater to the market, but they felt: Pi The foundation of County Douban is the sauce flavor. Even if it is made with red oil bean paste, it should still have a certain sauce flavor and has many followers.
As a result, Pixian Douban is divided into two camps: Andebang (represented by Juancheng and Dandan, with its factory located in Ande Town, Pixian County, and its products are mainly scented) and Baimabang (Wangfeng) , Xingxing are represented, the products are mainly in color, the factory is located in Baima Village, Pixian County).
From this we can draw the conclusion: if you want to buy red oil bean paste with good color, Wangfeng and Xingxing are your first choices; if you want to buy red oil bean paste with good fragrance, Juancheng and Dandan are your first choices.
After seeing this, you may want to ask, can you still buy Pixian Douban with the full flavor of sauce? able!
The reason for the popularity of red oil bean paste is actually the popularity of new Sichuan cuisine and Jianghu cuisine. But in recent years, people have begun to regain tradition, and the culinary world has once again spoken out: the foundation of Sichuan cuisine is flavor, and everything else is just a cloud.
In response to market demand, a small number of companies are now producing according to the authentic Pixian Douban technology. Although the purebred Sichuan Erjingtiao is no longer available, Erjingtiao is still available.
How to identify the authentic Pixian Douban (this may be the question I really want to ask), after all, it must not be cheap?
Let me teach you a trick on how to pass on the Sichuan cuisine from men to women: 1. Make sure the product name is "Red Oil Pixian Douban" or "Pixian Douban"; 2. Look at the ingredient list. If there are preservatives, no matter what brand it is, it is not the authentic "Pixian Douban" because "Pixian Douban" does not require preservatives. 3. Pixian Douban will be saccharified after a long period of fermentation and brewing, and it will smell sweet.