Down: a mixture of small feather pieces and down (also called down). The former is called feather and the latter is called velvet. Feathers of ducks and geese are often used, and small feathers and down are separated by washing and used as wadding for down jackets. Down is divided into gray and white, and white is better. The quality of down jacket is related to the filler and content of down jacket. The amount of down filling refers to the weight of down stuffed into down jackets, expressed in grams, which is generally around 250 grams, with less down filling and poor warmth retention; The cashmere content refers to the cashmere content in down, expressed as a percentage, which is generally 50 ~ 80%. The higher the cashmere content, the better the quality. Because feathers can make the human body's heat not easy to dissipate, and they are soft to the touch, but they are not easy to swell in time when they are wet, and small feathers can make clothes fluffy, so that swelling can keep more air in clothes and help keep warm. But there are many feathers, and the heat is easy to dissipate, which makes it feel hairy. Therefore, velvet and feathers must be eclectic and in a proper proportion.
(2) The coated fabric is made of silk, cotton cloth, cotton polyester and other fabrics with high warp and weft density. After calendering, the gap between warp and weft is reduced, and then polymer slurry is coated to form a transparent film covering layer with the fabric to close the gap between warp and weft. Fluorophosphoric acid resin or silicone waterproofing agent is added into the coating slurry to make the fabric have anti-condensation and anti-seepage properties. Comfortable.
Down classification
Down can be generally divided into goose down and duck down by source, white down and gray down by color, and of course there are black down produced by Icelandic duck down. Relatively speaking, better down generally comes from larger and more mature birds, so goose down will be slightly better than duck down. In terms of color, white velvet can be used for light-colored fabrics without color penetration, and it is more popular than gray velvet.
Color: gray velvet, white velvet.
Source: duck down, goose down
Composition: range from 5% to 95%. For example, it can be said: 90% white goose down and so on.
Fabric type
(1), waterproof coating (film) cloth
This kind of fabric is somewhat similar to jacket fabric, which is waterproof and breathable, and is generally used for professional down jackets in high mountains. But the difference is that the fabric as a whole will be lighter and softer than the jacket fabric. In addition, because down jackets are generally used in cold environments, mainly for the melting of ice and snow solid water, the requirements for water resistance of fabrics are not as high as those of jackets, and most down jackets with waterproof fabrics do not need gluing. Another thing to note is that some low-priced down jackets use airtight coated fabrics to prevent cashmere from leaking. If you just wear it every day, you can barely consider it. Representative fabrics: dryloft, Pro-Teclm, etc.
2, high density waterproof fabric
The density of the fabric itself is very high, generally above 290T t, and then through the post-treatment process of high-temperature fusion fabric, the cracks of the fabric are reduced and the cashmere resistance is improved. The lightness and softness of the fabric is the highest among all down jacket fabrics, and it has the properties of wind-proof, water-repellent and breathable. This kind of fabric is the most widely used fabric for down jackets and down sleeping bags, but the level of post-processing technology has a great influence on the cashmere resistance of the fabric. Representative fabrics: pertex, soft-b, etc.
(3) Ordinary woven fabrics are generally made of nylon or polyester, which has a low density. When making down jackets, adding anti-cashmere on the inner side of the fabric can play the role of anti-cashmere and has good anti-cashmere performance. The disadvantage is that the flannel affects the softness of the down jacket and increases the weight of the whole garment. Most importantly, if inferior anti-flannel is used, the permeability of down jacket will be greatly reduced, and the anti-flannel is easy to break or agglomerate after washing. Another way is to do anti-cashmere treatment, and its process is to brush a layer of anti-cashmere glue on the inner layer of the fabric, which has poor hand feeling and is airtight. Representative fabric: many but unknown fabric manufacturers.
(4) Glossy patent leather fabrics have appeared in recent years. Patent leather coated on leather or PU leather is characterized by luster, softness, waterproof, moisture-proof, difficult deformation and easy cleaning. This kind of fabric is bright in color and fashionable, suitable for both men and women, and is very popular with young people who are pursuing fashion.
There are two basic requirements for down jacket accessories: first, it is resistant to low temperature, because the use environment is generally in a low temperature state, and accessories that are not resistant to low temperature are likely to break. Second, it is durable. Imagine what would happen if your zipper suddenly broke at MINUS 30 degrees?
zipper
The zippers used in down jackets mainly include front chest main chain and pocket closure zipper, which require smooth use, anti-pinch device and auxiliary zipper. Representative products: ykk series zippers.
fastener
Fasteners on down jackets mainly include rope buckles, ladder buckles for adjusting hats, zipper heads, etc., which require stable use, firm closure and low temperature resistance. Representative products: Donefu series fasteners.
sewing thread
The sewing thread is required to be soaked in silicone oil, which can prevent the needle eye from expanding and causing cashmere leakage, and it should be as thin as possible on the premise that the strength meets the requirements.
Elastic elastic band (belt)
High elasticity and durability.
Hook and loop fastener
Hook ring should use varieties with rounded corners around it, and it is best not to hook hair.
The sewing technology of down jacket has its particularity. Feathers are light in weight and easy to drift with the wind. When making, most of the pieces should be sewn, leaving only the filling opening to fill. In order to prevent the down from falling, accumulating and wadding into the down, it should be fixed. The face and the inside are two layers, so they are buckled together; If there are three layers: face, lining and gallbladder, fasten the lining and gallbladder firmly (or make it removable in the living). In order to prevent the wool from drilling out of the needle hole, it is necessary to use the fine machine needle of 1 1. Generally, uncoated fabrics must be lined with chemical fiber paper.