The first is the shell.
The first is the sign at the bottom, the year and month (A stands for January ~B stands for February ~ and so on ~), and the readability of the handwriting.
The second is the solder joint at the hinge. The solder joint of the real zippo is irregular and approximately round, which looks like a frying spoon, while the fake one is mostly like a pot. Note that the solder joints of 194 1 replica version are also a bit like pots, but they are not as deep as false.
Third, the inside of the shell is not polished, not smooth, and even looks dirty, while some fake ones are smooth. Note that the inside of zippo's lid is smooth.
Then the inner container.
First, the needle wheel, the real zippo needle wheel is double-layered, the upper grain is from the upper right to the lower left, and the lower grain is from the upper left to the lower right (called diamond, in fact, it is divided into upper and lower layers). On the right side of the wheel, there are radial stripes.
Second, the flint seat is brass. Fake ones are often silvery white.
Third, the rivets of the steam turbine are silvery white, and the fake ones are often brass.
Fourthly, the cushion at the bottom of the liner is made of special fiber, 7 or 8mm thick, and the fake one is often only a sponge after 2 or 3 mm. ..
Fifth, five pieces of cotton before 2000 and six pieces after 2000.
Sixth, before 2000, the oil pad was thick and complete. After 2000, there was a small hole in the center, which could be directly filled with oil.
Seventh, the oil pad is printed inside and outside.
Eighth, the normal version of the liner interface has three solder joints, and the ultra-thin version has four solder joints.
Ninth, before 2000, the lettering of the liner was vertical and there was no protrusion at the bottom. After 2000, lettering is horizontal and has protrusions.
Tenth, the code printed on the inner container may be different from that printed on the bottom of the outer shell. Because the liner may be authorized by Japan or South Korea.