(5) Cutting requires accurate cutting and straight and smooth lines. The paving pattern should not be too thick, and the upper and lower layers of fabric should not be uneven. The error between the cut pieces of the same specification and the sample should not exceed 0.2cm, and the cutting depth should not exceed 0.6cm. Do not have different pieces of the same size.
(6) Write the number according to the sample alignment. The card number should be 0.6cm from the edge (including the number) and the font size should be clear. The number must be clear when changing the number. Each piece must be written with a number.
(7) When using tapered hole markings, care should be taken not to affect the appearance of the garment. After cutting, the quantity must be counted and the pieces inspected, and the garments must be bundled into piles according to the specifications of the garments, and a ticket must be attached to indicate the style number, part, specification, etc. (8) Every time an order is cut, the ends and ends of the fabric should be reserved for use in the workshop. (9) Keep mop records and check unit consumption.
(5) Sewing 1. Seams: Because the fabric has longitudinal and transverse extensibility (i.e. elasticity) and the disadvantage that edge coils are easy to come apart, the seams for sewing knitted fashion clothing should meet the following requirements:
(1) Seam The traces should have stretchability and strength suitable for knitted fabrics.
(2) The stitching should be able to prevent the fabric loops from coming apart.
(3) Properly control the density of stitches. For example, the stitch density of the lockstitch machine for thick fabrics is controlled at 9 to 10 stitches/2cm, the stitch density of the overlock machine is 6 to 7 stitches/2cm, and the stitch density of the lockstitch machine for thin fabrics is controlled at 10 to 11 stitches/2cm. 2cm, the stitch density of the overlock sewing machine is 7~8 stitches/2cm. Determined according to customer requirements.
2. Sutures and sutures must meet the following quality requirements:
(1) Pure cotton thread (suture) for sewing machines should be combed cotton thread, which has high strength and uniformity.
(2) The suture should have a certain degree of elasticity to prevent thread breakage due to twisting or squeezing of the thread during the sewing process.
(3) The suture must be flexible.
(4) The sutures must be even and smooth to reduce obstruction or friction of the sutures in the grooves and pinholes, and avoid defects such as thread breakage and uneven stitch tension. Determine the wire number and color according to customer requirements.
3. Sewing needle: Sewing machine needle is also called sewing needle and machine needle. In order to achieve the ideal combination of sewing needle, sewing material and suture, the appropriate sewing needle must be selected.
Sewing is the central process of clothing processing. Clothing sewing can be divided into machine sewing and manual sewing according to style and craft style. Implement flow operations during the sewing process.
Viscose interlining is widely used in clothing processing, generally including woven interlining and non-woven interlining. Its function is to simplify the sewing process, make the clothing quality uniform, prevent deformation and wrinkles, and improve the shape of the clothing. Play a certain role. Most of its types are based on non-woven fabrics, woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. The use of fusible linings must be selected according to the fabric and part of the clothing, and the time, temperature, and pressure of gluing must be accurately controlled in order to achieve better results. . Technical operating procedures for bonding work: 1. The garment pieces must be bonded and lined in strict accordance with the process requirements. The wrong lining must not be pasted, and it is strictly forbidden to adhere too little or too much. 2. Strictly follow the process requirements and adjust the temperature and pressure of the lining machine to avoid sticking, uneven bonding, and weak bonding. 3. When bonding the interlining, pay attention to the front and back of the fabric and interlining. It is strictly forbidden to stick the interlining on the front of the fabric or if there is a problem with the bonding machine, report it in time.
During garment processing, the stitching must follow a certain pattern. They are connected in series and arranged on the garment pieces to form strong and beautiful stitches. Stitches can be basically summarized into the following four types:
1. Chain stitch Chain stitch is made up of one or two sutures connected in series. A single suture is called a single chain stitch. The advantage is that less thread is used per unit length, but the disadvantage is that the edge lock will come apart when the chain line breaks. The double-thread stitch is called double-thread chain stitch, which is made up of a needle thread and a hook thread strung together. Its elasticity and strength are better than the lock stitch, and it is not easy to fall apart. Single-thread chain stitch is often used for top hem stitching, trousers cuff stitching, and lapels on suit tops, etc. Double-thread chain stitch is often used for seams, darts, back seams and side seams of pants, elastic bands and other parts that are subject to more stretching and stronger stress.
2. Lock stitch, also known as shuttle stitch, consists of two sutures cross-connected in the sewing material. Both ends of the sewing material have the same shape. It has poor stretchability and elasticity, but the upper and lower stitches are tighter. The linear lockstitch is the most common suture stitch. Because it uses less thread and has poor stretchability, it is often used to sew two pieces of sewing material. Such as hemming, darting, bagging, etc.
3. Overlock stitches are stitches that consist of several stitches that circulate around each other and are set on the edge of the sewing material. It is named according to the number of stitches that make up the stitch (single-thread overlock, double-thread overlock...six-thread overlock). Its characteristic is that it can wrap the edges of the sewing material and prevent the edges of the fabric from falling apart. When the stitches are stretched, the upper thread and the bottom thread can transfer to each other to a certain extent, so the stitches have better elasticity, so they are widely used for hemming of woven fabrics. Three-thread overlock and four-thread overlock are the most commonly used hems for woven garments. Five-thread overlock and six-thread overlock are also called "composite stitches", which are composed of a double-thread overlock and a three-thread or four-thread overlock stitch. Its biggest feature is that it is powerful and can perform seaming and overlocking at the same time, thus improving the density of stitches and sewing production efficiency.
The sewing of clothing as a whole needs to be neat and beautiful, and there should be no asymmetry, distortion, missing seams, wrong seams, etc. When sewing striped fabrics, attention should be paid to the smooth connection of the splicing patterns. The strips should be symmetrical from left to right, and the stitching should be even and straight, with the arcs rounded and smooth; the tangents on the surface of the garment should be flat without wrinkles or small folds; the seams should be in good condition It is in good condition, with no broken wires, floating wires, or pulled wires; important parts such as collar tips are not allowed to be wired.
(6) Buttonhole buttons
Buttonholes and buttons in clothing are usually machine-processed. According to their shapes, buttonholes are divided into flat and eye-shaped holes. , commonly known as sleeping holes and pigeon eye holes.
1. Sleeping holes are commonly used in thin clothing products such as shirts, skirts, and trousers. 2. Pigeon eye holes are mostly used on outerwear made of thick fabrics such as tops and suits. The following points should be noted when making buttonholes: (1) Whether the buttonhole position is correct. (2) Whether the buttonhole size matches the button size and thickness. (3) Whether the buttonhole opening is cut properly. (4) For stretchable (elastic) or very thin fabrics, consider adding fabric reinforcement to the inner layer when using keyhole holes.
The sewing of buttons should correspond to the position of buttonholes, otherwise the garment will be distorted and skewed due to inaccurate button positions. When nailing buttons, you should also pay attention to whether the amount and strength of the button thread are enough to prevent the buttons from falling off, and avoid undesirable phenomena such as blooming, crooking, rotation, or holes in the core posts. Whether the number of threads for fastening buttons on garments made of thick fabrics with punching holes is sufficient.
(7) Ironing and Ironing People often use "three-point sewing and seven-minute ironing" to emphasize that ironing is an important process in garment processing. Be sure to confirm the ironing method and iron it strictly according to the customer's requirements. Make sure the ironing station is clean and hygienic. When folding and ironing, the process requirements must be strictly followed to ensure uniformity. To ensure that clothing products are not contaminated, we must strictly implement the "three noes and one no" regulations, that is, no splashes, no shine, no burrs, and no burning. The equipment must be maintained regularly in accordance with regulations to ensure that the appearance of the equipment is clean. If a machine or equipment failure occurs, the equipment maintenance personnel must be notified in time, and the machine must not be dismantled without authorization. When using a steam iron, be careful not to use any steam. When the operator leaves the machine, be sure to shut it down at any time. During the operation, the pieces of clothing that have been fastened and assembled must be stacked neatly and not thrown around. Ironing tools should be placed on the stand and should not be placed directly on the chopping board with clothing pieces to avoid burning the chopping board. When the operator leaves the ironing table, he or she must unplug the power plug in time. The main functions of ironing are threefold:
(1) Remove wrinkles from fabrics through spraying and ironing, and smooth creases.
(2) After heat-setting treatment, the appearance of the garment is smooth and the pleats and lines are straight.
(3) Use the "return" and "pull out" ironing techniques to appropriately change the tension and contraction of the fibers and the density and direction of the fabric's warp and weft tissue, and shape the three-dimensional shape of the garment to adapt to the human body's body shape and activity status. requirements, so that the clothing can achieve the purpose of beautiful appearance and comfortable wearing.
The four basic factors that affect fabric ironing are: temperature, humidity, pressure and time. Among them, ironing temperature is the main factor affecting the ironing effect. Mastering the ironing temperature of various fabrics is a key issue in finishing garments. If the ironing temperature is too low, the ironing effect will not be achieved; if the ironing temperature is too high, the clothes will be damaged and cause losses.
The ironing temperature of various fibers is also affected by various factors such as contact time, moving speed, ironing pressure, presence or absence of padding, thickness of padding and moisture content
The following phenomena should be avoided during ironing:
(1) Auroral and scorching phenomena on the surface of the garment are caused by excessive ironing temperature for too long.
(2) Ironing defects such as small ripples and wrinkles are left on the surface of the garment.
(3) There are leaky ironing areas.
(8) Garment inspection Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory, including two major items: appearance quality and intrinsic quality. The appearance inspection content includes dimensional tolerance, appearance defects, seam fastness, etc. Internal testing items include fabric unit area weight, color fastness, shrinkage, etc.
The inspection of clothing should run through the entire processing process such as cutting, sewing, buttonhole fastening, and ironing. The finished product should also be comprehensively inspected before packaging and storage to ensure product quality.
The main contents of finished product inspection are:
(1) Whether the style is the same as the confirmation.
(2) Whether the size specifications meet the requirements of the craft sheet and sample garments.
(3) Whether the stitching is correct and whether the sewing is regular and smooth.
(4) For garments made of striped fabric, check whether the stripes and stripes are aligned correctly.
(5) Whether the fabric threads are correct, whether there are any defects or oil stains on the fabric.
(6) Whether there is color difference problem in the same piece of clothing.
(7) Whether the ironing is in good condition.
(8) Whether the adhesive lining is firm and whether there is glue leakage.
(9) Whether the thread ends have been repaired.
(10) Whether the clothing accessories are complete.
(11) Whether the size mark, wash mark, trademark, etc. on the clothing are consistent with the actual content of the goods, and whether the position is correct.
(12) Whether the overall shape of the clothing is good.
(13) Whether the packaging meets the requirements.
(9) Shipping or warehousing
The packaging of clothing can be divided into two types: hanging packaging and box packaging. Box packaging generally has inner packaging and outer packaging.
Inner packaging refers to one or several pieces of clothing put into a plastic bag. The style number and size of the clothing should be consistent with those marked on the plastic bag, and the packaging must be smooth and beautiful. Some special styles of clothing require special processing when packaging. For example, twisted clothing must be packaged in twisted rolls to maintain its style.
The outer packaging is generally packed in cartons, and the size and color are matched according to customer requirements or process order instructions. There are generally four packaging forms: mixed color mixed code, single color single code, single color mixed code, mixed color single code. When packing, attention should be paid to complete quantities and accurate color and size matching. A box mark should be painted on the outer box to indicate the customer, port of shipment, box number, quantity, place of origin, etc. The content should be consistent with the actual goods.